Jagan Nath Timilsina has summited <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/mt-everest-grows-by-86cm">Mt Everest</a>, won <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/hurtling-through-the-himalaya">the Great Himalayan Race</a>, climbed rock faces. He now runs multiple tourism businesses and spends his summers teaching in Alaska.&nbsp;
Born and raised in Sarangkot, surrounded by the spectacular panorama of the Annapurnas, Timilsina would hike for hours to school every day.&nbsp;
Timilsina wanted to start working as early as possible. At age 13, he went to India to look for a job but was too young to work security. So he came back to Nepal and became a trekking porter at age 14.&nbsp;
Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/too-many-mules-on-the-everest-trail">Too many mules on the Everest trail</a>, Alton C. Byers
Ambitious and resourceful, he took advantage of the government’s English language and training programs for trekking guides. Timilsina started out as a guide at <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/british-pioneers-of-tourism-in-nepal">Himalayan Encounters</a> in 2004, and covered more than 100 trails in Nepal and Tibet over the next 11 years.
“Many porters become guides and stop,” notes Timilsina. “But I always want to take the next step. So I set my sights on mountaineering and climbing.”
He completed courses offered by the Nepal Mountaineering Association and the Khumbu Climbing Center (KCC), learning about avalanche safety, ice climbing and rescue training. Soon after, Timilsina summited Mt Everest. Since then he has scaled 25 other peaks, often leading expeditions.
Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/trail-running-trail-blazer">Trail-running trail blazer</a>, Sanghamitra Subba
Timilsina wanted to take his education further, so on the recommendation of teachers he met at the KCC, applied to the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS), a non-profit outdoor education school founded in Wyoming. On his second attempt, he got into a 15-person course for instructors. &nbsp;&nbsp;
Timilsina's acceptance into the program was conditional: NOLS were stricter with candidates from Nepal, given the country's poor reputation regarding safety. He was surprised with a test about Wilderness First Aid, which Timilsina had passed in Nepal. This time, he failed. &nbsp;
According to protocol, Timilsina should have been sent home, but the instructors decided to give him a second chance: he could go on with the course, but would be retested after. “The course kept me busy from 6AM to PM, so I would study at night by headlamp, getting by on three hours of sleep,” recalls Timilsina.&nbsp;
The second the course finished, Timilsina was whisked away to give his retake. He needed at least a 75 to pass - he got a 99.&nbsp;
The deal was that the best-performing student in the course was offered employment at the institute. Timilsina had a job starting the very next day, and he has kept it, teaching in Alaska every summer.&nbsp;
He uses his experience to run outdoor education courses in Nepal too, including teaching wilderness skills to children with disabilities.
Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/run-sunmaya-run">Run, Sunmaya, run</a>, Vishad Raj Onta
“Once, the children were caught in a heavy downpour and I was worried,” recalls Timilsina, “but they assured me that it was nothing compared to what they deal with on the daily basis.”
In 2017, Timilsina won the first edition of the Great Himalayan Race, covering 1,600km in 46 days.&nbsp;
“Much of the race was very easy for me. I would get done with the day’s racing early, and spent the rest of the day taking in the beauty of the untouched valleys and cultures along the route.”
Timilsina now splits his time between Pokhara and Kathmandu, running his travel company Freedom Adventures, his non-profit Freedom Social Foundation, and organising races and training through Himalayan Trail Running.&nbsp;
Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/nepali-trail-running-champions">Nepali trail running champions</a>, Preeti Khattri
Harder than juggling all these ventures is navigating Nepal’s labyrinthine bureaucracy. Timilsina says: “It is frustrating to work in Nepal. To trek to Manang, for example, you need permits from four different entities.”&nbsp;
Outdated laws and arbitrary regulations have made things worse. Adding to the challenge is the <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/brain-gain-into-brain-drain">phenomenon of outmigration of the young Nepalis</a>, who are often only holding jobs as they wait for visas to be approved.&nbsp;
Despite all this, Timilsina is still optimistic about the future of Nepal’s tourism. He says: “There is endless potential here, but our attitudes around discipline and hard work need to match our ambitions.”

Vishad Raj Onta

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Here & Now

Juggernaut Timilsina

Nepali athletes have not won any medals in the ongoing Olympics in France, but their participation in judo, shooting, swimming and taekwondo, is seen as a source of national pride.&nbsp; If breakdancing can be an Olympic sport, why isn’t trail running? If it was, Nepali runners would have a good chance of podium finishes on the Olympic stage. Nepal’s performance in international football has been inconsistent, with some regional successes but limited impact on the larger Asian stage. The men and women’s cricket teams have performed well, achieving ODI status and competing in the ICC T20 World Cup qualifiers.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20240810080824_ed056b7ba2ce18f7132f548c7923aa292384574c20b0b73d8c3c1c5ba9740fb9.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="20240810080824_ed056b7ba2ce18f7132f548c7923aa292384574c20b0b73d8c3c1c5ba9740fb9" data-rendition-name="original" width="2250" height="1500" loading="lazy" alt="Sunmaya Budha NT"> <figcaption>Sunmaya Budha hit record timing in China’s Wenling 70km race this year.(Photo: Shristi Karki)</figcaption> </figure>  But it is Nepal’s trail and ultra-athletes who have gained significant recognition in international mountain and trail running races. Better acclimatised because of our natural high-altitude training, trail runners like Dawa Dachhiri Sherpa, Sangé Sherpa, Sunmaya Budha, Bhim Gurung, Tirtha Tamang, Mira Rai have won at prestigious events and set records. Mira Rai has become an international icon, and was named National Geographic Adventurer of the Year in 2017.&nbsp; Nepal’s topography provides an excellent training ground, enhancing the performance of athletes in this field. The sport was unrecognised even in Nepal despite Nepali runners making headlines internationally, and it was only in 2023 that the National Sports Council paved the way for its national recognition.&nbsp; The Adventure Running Federation was set up to encourage trail running which has more of a niche audience compared to cricket or football. Still, it would be pity if Nepal did not invest in its athletes who can make the country proud, just as Kenyan and Ethiopian marathoners have.&nbsp; Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/run-sunmaya-run">Run, Sunmaya, run</a>, Vishad Raj Onta <div class="embed-block"><div><div style="left: 0; width: 100%; height: 0; position: relative; padding-bottom: 56.25%;"><iframe src="//cdn.iframe.ly/api/iframe?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fembed%2Fp0xDZN0wfIg%3Fsi%3DupPajyK-ZgHwbbiV&key=87ca3314a9fa775b5c3a7726100694b0" style="top: 0; left: 0; width: 100%; height: 100%; position: absolute; border: 0;" allowfullscreen scrolling="no" allow="accelerometer *; clipboard-write *; encrypted-media *; gyroscope *; picture-in-picture *; web-share *;"></iframe></div></div></div> Globally, the popularity of mountain and trail running has surged in the past two decades, driven by a growing interest in outdoor and adventure sports. Endurance sports like the Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc (UTMB) and Western States Endurance Run in the US have gained prominence, inspiring athletes worldwide. The US market for trail running gear, including shoes, apparel, and accessories, is valued at approximately $1.5 billion to $2 billion.&nbsp; The European market for trail running gear is as high as $1 billion as major trail running events in the Alps of France, Italy, and Switzerland support its growth. &nbsp; Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/hurtling-through-the-himalaya">Hurtling through the Himalaya</a>, Vishad Raj Onta <h2>Runner Rankings</h2>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20240810080824_988b0a95e4632dcbfe38be50673e6733545e4421cab6c52a8a1cb5f07ea74d42.jpg" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="20240810080824_988b0a95e4632dcbfe38be50673e6733545e4421cab6c52a8a1cb5f07ea74d42" data-rendition-name="original" width="4000" height="2666" loading="lazy" alt="Arjun Rai Kulung"> <figcaption>Arjun Rai Kulung galloping in the Skyrace Pikey Peak 2023 at 4,046m elevation. He is third on ITRA Top Nepali Male. </figcaption> </figure>  The ranking database of the International Trail Running Association (ITRA) is handy in keeping track of international mountain and trail runners, and we can compare them with Nepal’s top 5 male and female athletes (table, right).&nbsp; The ITRA performance scoring system is designed to evaluate and standardise the performance of trail runners across various events globally. Introduced to enhance fairness and transparency in trail running, the scoring system assigns scores based on runners’ results in qualifying races. The Elite level has been redefined by raising the entry level to above 825 for men whereas previously it was above 800. For women it is considered to be above 700.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20240810080824_f75f55e79d455601201b911f714e22c93ca01c0dbdcc0d0d73df3f12e8701981.jpg" data-media-id="editor_5" data-image-id="20240810080824_f75f55e79d455601201b911f714e22c93ca01c0dbdcc0d0d73df3f12e8701981" data-rendition-name="original" width="1000" height="1500" loading="lazy" alt="Trail runner rankings NT"> </figure>  The categories have been refined. A new category, Top Elite, has been created for men with scores of 900 and above, and women with a scores of 775 and above. As expected, there are very few Top Elite runners, and they are the best in the world.&nbsp; Nepal’s past trail runners are working to get back into form, while others have left the country in search of better job. The state’s investment in selection of new talent and training could help Nepal win more medals in international events in a sport that seems to be designed for a Himalayan nation like ours. Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/trail-running-trail-blazer">Trail-running trail blazer</a>, Sanghamitra Subba

Nepali trail running champions

Himalayan farmers are at the forefront of the climate crisis, having to deal with extreme heat or cold, prolonged droughts or excessive rain, landslides and floods.&nbsp; But they are also the most resilient farmers, who have struggled on their own for generations to grow enough food on terraces meticulously carved into the fragile top soils of the slopes.&nbsp; “The government did not know or care about us farmers up here,” says Surya Adhikari, 70. “We have to adapt to climate change on our own, just like all the other problems we have dealt with in the past.” Indeed, the problems of Himalayan mountain agriculture predate climate change, and for farmers like Adhikari it is just the latest crisis they have to deal with.&nbsp; In his own lifetime, Adhikari has seen the snowline recede up the Annapurna range that towers over his village of Sundari Danda near Pokhara, and once predictable weather patterns have become erratic. Adhikari has responded by diversifying crops, ensuring irrigation, and protecting indigenous seeds.&nbsp; Climate scientists say the Himalayan mountains are warming up to 0.7°C more than the global average due a phenomenon called ‘altitude effect’. In 2023, global average temperature rose by 1.5°C above pre-industrial levels, and this means in these mountains the increase was 2.2°C. &nbsp; Part of the impact is record-breaking heat even at a 1,500m elevation in these villages near Pokhara, and there have been successive years of dry winters. This spring saw record-breaking wildfires that raged for months nationwide, and many of the surrounding slopes around Begnas and Rupa lakes still bear the scars of fires. &nbsp; These changes combined with economic factors have intensified out-migration with some districts like Kaski seeing a 17% drop in population since 2011.&nbsp; Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/climate-change-hits-himalayan-rice">Climate change hits Himalayan rice</a>, Erica Wu Even though rural youth are migrating out, Nepal is still a predominantly agricultural country with two-thirds of the population dependent on farming, and 33% of the GDP coming from agriculture. &nbsp; Thus, when late monsoons delay the planting of rice or when droughts destroy crops, it is not just the agricultural sector that suffers but the country’s economy as a whole. Nepal is already a net importer of food products, and imports have grown most noticeably in the last 10 years. This year’s monsoon so far has been higher than normal, and paddy planting is supposed to be nearly 100% nationwide. But cloudbursts have also set off landslides and flashfloods. This week, 12 more people were killed in landslides in Gulmi and Baglung, bringing the total death toll since June to at least 175. &nbsp;&nbsp; The trend over the past decade has been that monsoon rains start later than usual. There are extended dry spells followed by destructive local downpours. Groundwater levels have fallen due to insufficient recharge and over-extraction, making springs go dry.&nbsp; Without adequate government investment in building and maintaining irrigation systems, farmers in many rural areas are entirely at the mercy of the rains.&nbsp; Delayed planting leaves fields barren and susceptible to erosion of nutritious top soil, while also pushing back the harvest cycle. When the rains do come, intense storms damage or destroy crops.&nbsp; Similarly, pests previously found only in the Tarai or those entirely foreign to Nepal such as the American fall armyworm, which targets maize, are moving up the mountains. Agriculture in Nepal is mostly subsistence to begin with, but the climate crisis has pushed them off the edge, forcing many to abandon their fields and migrate to the cities or abroad. Pokhara-based LI-BIRD (Local Initiatives for Biodiversity, Research and Development) works in 23 districts to improve livelihoods of small farmers while conserving biodiversity. It has proven answers to help farmers adapt to the impact climate crisis, and just needs the government to scale up the measures nationwide. &nbsp;&nbsp; Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/agroecology-nepals-answer-to-climate-change/">Agroecology, Nepal’s answer to climate change</a>, Zachary Barton <h2>Focus on farms</h2>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20240810030828_c671b6bc493c63b7c4360ee68e5e613e846173e7fcfce9edad7a20f711b5c271.jpg" data-media-id="editor_2" data-image-id="20240810030828_c671b6bc493c63b7c4360ee68e5e613e846173e7fcfce9edad7a20f711b5c271" data-rendition-name="original" width="2250" height="1483" loading="lazy" alt="Helping farmers who help themselves NT"> <figcaption>Local seeds on display at the Pingdanda Community Seed Bank in Sindhupalchok. Photo: LI-BIRD PHOTO BANK</figcaption> </figure>  Indigenous paddy, wheat, millet and buckwheat seeds are hardier than imported hybrids, and better able to adapt to a hotter climate. They have evolved to local soils and the micro-climate, and are genetically better suited to deal with changes. This is what the Pokhara-based action research organisation LI-BIRD is trying to do: preserve indigenous crop varieties through its seed banks, and distribute them through farmer-owned cooperatives. “When working to improve agriculture, we have to keep farmers at the front and centre, particularly their traditional knowledge,” says Bishnu Bhusal of LI-BIRD. “Bringing outside knowledge is not going to work here.” LI-BIRD’s Participatory Plant Breeding initiative gathers a variety of seed samples of local crops from farmers and plants them side-by-side (pictured, right). Those samples deemed most fit by farmers in terms of yield, weather and pest resistance are then distributed across the country by the Community Seed Bank Association.&nbsp; Local seed banks, collections of region-specific seeds made available to farmers, allow for what Bhusal says is “conservation through use”. This ensures that indigenous crops have a chance to evolve, and do not face extinction from natural disasters or climate change. &nbsp; While imported high-yielding seed varieties are tempting, they also require expensive chemical fertiliser and pesticide inputs, which also end up destroying the soil. Indigenous seeds are significantly more resilient and reliable.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20240810030828_942defea210563ec5726a55bb704f21aaf31c21167b60e36573e38312a912367.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="20240810030828_942defea210563ec5726a55bb704f21aaf31c21167b60e36573e38312a912367" data-rendition-name="original" width="2000" height="1125" loading="lazy" alt="Helping farmers who help themselves NT"> <figcaption>A Farmers Field School in Kanchanpur observing a plot with diverse varieties of rice with help from LI-BIRD. Photo: LI-BIRD PHOTO BANK</figcaption> </figure>  “Even with minimal care and inputs, local varieties survive,” explains Jenny Shrestha of LI-BIRD. “This means less fertiliser, pesticide, and water are needed.” &nbsp; Indigenous seeds are naturally adapted to local environmental conditions and thus are more resistant to pests, droughts, and other disasters, she adds.&nbsp; “When the climate changes, harvest reduction is much greater in imported seed varieties than local indigenous varieties,” Shrestha says, pointing to the performance of Setho Dabdi wheat variety native to Doti which in tests in 2022 gave higher yield than imported wheat despite a winter drought. &nbsp; While crop dependability is important, so is sustainable income. Landscape Branding, whereby agro products are marketed for being endemic to a certain region demanding high market value, has become an incentive for farmers to return to local indigenous crops.&nbsp; Two such crops are Pokhareli Jethobudho, a rice native to Pokhara and admired for its aroma, and Setho Kaguno, the foxtail millet native to the fields near Begnas and Rupa Lakes. Both products are branded and marketed by the social enterprise Annapaat, guaranteeing farmers a set minimum rate. In coordination with local governments, farmers are reimbursed if they are unable to sell their products at or above that rate, which for Setho Kaguno is Rs120 per kg.&nbsp; LI-BIRD’s success with seeds are now being upscaled by the government. The Crop Development and Agricultural Biodiversity Conservation Centre of the Ministry of Agriculture is helping farmers across 30 districts with money to preserve local crops.&nbsp; Government subsidy on organic pesticides is also encouraging sustainable farming methods, although there is skepticism whether it is the government or non-profits driving this initiative. Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/nepal-sets-ambitious-target-for-food-sufficiency">Nepal sets ambitious target for food sufficiency</a>, Ramesh Kumar <h2>Alternative cash crops</h2>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20240810030836_b77279b877b4b5f584c8d4a4b05a0a4e451afc836645e9d781f278ab685e2a6e.png" data-media-id="editor_5" data-image-id="20240810030836_b77279b877b4b5f584c8d4a4b05a0a4e451afc836645e9d781f278ab685e2a6e" data-rendition-name="original" width="469" height="295" loading="lazy" alt="Helping farmers who help themselves NT"> <figcaption>Photo: JANA AŠENBRENNEROVÁ</figcaption> </figure>  Resilience to the impact of the climate crisis can also come from diversifying to cash crops that raise household incomes, allowing farmers more breathing space.&nbsp; Surya Adhikari is a well-known plant breeder in Begnas, and has begun noticing troubling environmental changes after more than 40 years working in agriculture.&nbsp; “In the last five years, it has become so hot that it is hard to stay in the village and the crops won’t grow because there are so many bugs and pests,” he says. &nbsp; So, Adhikari has taken to coffee and fruits, which have proven to be more resistant to heat stress compared to traditional crops such as rice, which he used to grow. Coffee takes up minimal space and enriches soil quality, while also allowing other crops to be grown in between.&nbsp; But with pests and erratic rainfall becoming even bigger threats of late, Adhikari is diversifying further to moringa, nicknamed ‘Miracle Tree’ for its myriad medicinal benefits.&nbsp; Moringa leaves are used in dietary supplements, are rich in vitamins, have antioxidant properties and fetch a high market price. &nbsp; Moringa is fast-growing and drought resistant, and Adhikari was a pioneer in introducing the tree to Nepal, but wishes the government was more proactive in helping market this unique product.&nbsp; Government inaction is a given, Adhikari reckons, and this means farmers like him have to find innovative ways to adapt to the climate crisis on their own.&nbsp; He says, “The government makes a policy but it is often short-sighted, and on-the-ground implementation never really happens.” &nbsp; Whether it is seed preservation or climate-change education, rural farmers are therefore on their own. This means climate impact, on top of lack of jobs and opportunities, is driving increased outmigration. &nbsp; “The government is happy to neglect farmers because there is enough money coming from overseas remittances,” says Adhikari, “We have to bring changes on our own.” &nbsp; Which is why Adhikari is organising farmers so there is strength in numbers, and adaptation ideas can be shared more widely. The National Farmers Group Federation is playing this role as an umbrella organisation for advocacy organisations at the village, district, and central levels. Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/the-karnali-s-hunger-emergency">The Karnali’s hunger emergency</a>, Anita Bhetwal <h2>Mighty Millet</h2>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20240810030828_7e2dda4ed82e232f62512d54f7d72b0c4457f8df6bbe59187b3ee323606fc3ff.jpg" data-media-id="editor_7" data-image-id="20240810030828_7e2dda4ed82e232f62512d54f7d72b0c4457f8df6bbe59187b3ee323606fc3ff" data-rendition-name="original" width="1333" height="1000" loading="lazy" alt="Helping farmers who help themselves NT"> <figcaption>Farmers harvesting Proso Millet in Humla. Photo: LI-BIRD PHOTO BANK </figcaption> </figure>  Although she may not have an official title, Ambika Bhandari is a leader in her village. Five years ago, she began piloting the Setho Kaguno variety of local millet on her farm, previously having grown maize like many locals.&nbsp; Seeing Bhandari’s strong yield and the higher market value for her millet, neighbouring farmers in the village of Kafalghari in Kaski followed in her footsteps.&nbsp; Changing weather patterns and heat stress convinced farmers to switch from maize to millet. Five years later, Kafalghari today is the biggest Setho Kaguno producing village in the country, harvesting more than 2.56 tonnes last year.&nbsp; Bhandari gets her seeds from LI-BIRD’s seed bank and sells her crop to the non-profit Merit Pokhara, which is run by students also inspired by LI-BIRD’s work with seed preservation.&nbsp; Merit provides farmers like Bhandari with instruction on using phone apps to track rain and temperature patterns so as to ensure planting, harvesting, and drying are carried out at optimal periods.&nbsp; Based on Merit Pokhara’s model, the local government adopted a compensatory scheme to ensure farmers are paid fairly for their produce. Says Bhandari: “This public-private cooperation has been truly helpful. It also proves that we carve out our own destiny even without outside help.” &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/borderlines/grain-drain">Grain drain</a>, Chandrakishore This article is brought to you by <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/" target="_blank">Nepali Times</a>, in collaboration with <a href="https://inpsjapan.com/en/" target="_blank">INPS Japan</a> and <a href="https://sgi-peace.org/" target="_blank">Soka Gakkai International</a>, in consultative status with UN ECOSOC.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20240810030848_30c3782f9c09219bf1c249b51483a3cfb7a53a06d117d2aebd23ca7080d12758.jpg" data-media-id="editor_12" data-image-id="20240810030848_30c3782f9c09219bf1c249b51483a3cfb7a53a06d117d2aebd23ca7080d12758" data-rendition-name="original" width="680" height="103" loading="lazy" alt=" INPS Japan, Soka Gakkai International, UN ECOSOC"> </figure>

Helping farmers who help themselves

‘Tell them I made it.’ That is the title of an advertisement in a recent issue of The Economist magazine placed by GoodWeave International, which works on eliminating child labour around the world. The ad profiles Hem Bahadur Moktan, who at age 10 was a child worker himself in a carpet factory in Lalitpur 26 years ago, when Nepal’s woolen carpet exports were booming and weavers preferred the cheap and nimble fingers of children to work the looms.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20240809120820_f04d091d5abcf62c03be87a7319996437e92f7914ecb0208305c4fa1e7cefbfe.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="20240809120820_f04d091d5abcf62c03be87a7319996437e92f7914ecb0208305c4fa1e7cefbfe" data-rendition-name="original" width="2280" height="3100" loading="lazy" alt="Hem Moktan NT 2"> </figure>  Today, Moktan is the face of Nepal GoodWeave Foundation, the organisation that rescued him when he was 13. As a Child Development Officer he now helps children like himself in workplaces, providing them a chance to better their lives. &nbsp; “As a boy, I did not know there was a life beyond the four walls of that weaving room in Bungmati,” remembers Moktan, now 36. But there was a thread of hope as he worked the loom all day in that dark and dank room. &nbsp; Moktan was the second child in a family of subsistence farmers in Kharling village that clings precariously to a mountain slope in Makwanpur district. &nbsp;When a landslide took away their home, the family migrated down to Chitwan. A labour broker who was also from Moktan's village paid an advance to Moktan’s father, and the young boy came to Kathmandu. He was made to work 16 hours a day, and older co-workers bullied him, calling him फुच्चे माइला.&nbsp; “Although I came to Kathmandu to earn money for my family, deep down my real aim was to search for a better opportunity,” recalls Moktan. “And that, I ultimately got.” In the 1990s many children from districts surrounding Kathmandu were moving to Kathmandu’s carpet factories. The industry was booming, employing 300,000 workers, and since child labour laws were lax, many were children. Carpet dyes polluted the rivers.&nbsp; Handwoven carpets made up nearly 70% of Nepal's total exports, and even the rugs at the White House were said to be from Nepal. &nbsp; But the industry soon went into decline with cheaper machine made Chinese carpets, recession in the West, as well as undercutting by rival Nepali exporters.&nbsp; Despite the struggle, Moktan is not bitter about his past: “If I hadn’t come to Kathmandu then, I may be toiling away today as a migrant worker in the Gulf.”&nbsp; After three years of hard labour, one day in 2000 he was rescued by the GoodWeave Foundation which had already rescued 5,000 other Nepali children from carpet factories. At 13, Moktan was taken to the organisation’s transit home in Kathmandu where he spent the rest of his childhood studying. He later completed a Bachelors in law and prepared for the civil service exam.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20240809120828_fcf185d6e00dc366b5db158144223f974272e2dc75c49e824365670e70e37d4c.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="20240809120828_fcf185d6e00dc366b5db158144223f974272e2dc75c49e824365670e70e37d4c" data-rendition-name="original" width="1205" height="605" loading="lazy" alt="Hem Moktan NT 3"> <figcaption>CHILD FRIENDLY: Hem Moktan at a transit home for child workers in Kathmandu and in 2001 (circled) with other child workers and Goodweave staff.</figcaption> </figure>  All through this, he supported the education of his younger siblings, and Moktan is proud that his family is the most educated in the whole neighbourhood.&nbsp; He applied for a vacancy for a Child Development Officer at Nepal GoodWeave Foundation, and he got the job because of his academic qualifications as well as his personal history of being a child worker himself.&nbsp; “I am now giving back to the organisation that gave me a future, and helping other children like me,” says Moktan, who is now Program Manager at Goodweave. &nbsp; Many rescued children joined another carpet factory, or even ended up on the streets. Moktan is among a handful who escaped that fate out of sheer determination.&nbsp; Carpets are still the country’s third biggest export item, making up 7.32% of total earnings. Today, child labour in the carpet industry is not on the scale that it was in the 1990s, although there are still children working in other sectors.&nbsp; Says Moktan: “I understand the push factors driving children to work, and I want to inspire child labour survivors by my own example to show that there is a life outside the factory.” &nbsp;

“I made it.”

Ranked 8th in the world in the 100km race, Nepal’s Sunmaya Budha is taking long strides in the international trail running circuit. In March, the 24-year old from Jumla was at the <a href="https://itra.run/Races/RaceResults/Wenling.Golden.Coast.Trail.70KM/2024/91759">Wenling 70km in China</a>, a trail race on paper but with a route that was about 70% road. On her first time, she set a record for the course, beating the number two ranked female trail runner in the world. It was a 70km road race all on a road surface, something Budha is less used to, since almost all of her training is on trails. Budha hit a roadblock at 30km, when her leg started cramping up, but she fought through it. Soon after winning Wenling, she traveled with her manager to Spain to race a 75k at the Transvulcania La Palma Island 2024. Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/change-on-a-himalayan-scale">Change on a Himalayan scale</a>, Kunda Dixit&nbsp; Budha was apprehensive about her chances, because she was coming back from an injury and the field was strong. In a pre-race interview, she thought she could not even finish in the top ten. She ended up third. Now, she is eying the world trail running championship in France in September. &nbsp;Sunmaya started running while in Grade 7 in Jumla, and did well at school tournaments. She came to Kathmandu to take part in 3 and 5Ks. “My very first race was 1,600m, and I came in second only because I had no clue that the finish line was a little further than where we had started from,” she recalls, laughing. The next year, she won the race. “There was no tv, no internet in my village. The only way to get any kind of news or information was the radio,” remembers Budha of her childhood. Her parents (pictured below) were not educated and initially did not understand this passion for running, insisting instead on an arranged marriage for her.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20240808100852_f9969d45346d1c6ef2dbc074fc2a3ae5c8c7f0279e30197146e645ef9d1b9cc2.png" data-media-id="editor_2" data-image-id="20240808100852_f9969d45346d1c6ef2dbc074fc2a3ae5c8c7f0279e30197146e645ef9d1b9cc2" data-rendition-name="original" width="1492" height="1118" loading="lazy" alt="Sunmaya Budha family NT"> <figcaption>Sunmaya back home in Jumla in t-shirt with her family.</figcaption> </figure>  “They weren’t too persistent about marriage, but were a little concerned with how thin I was getting from all the training,” she says, “they let me know that they could not support me financially.” She moved to Khalanga and started training at the Karnali Sports Club under <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=3102">Hari Bahadur Rokaya</a> who was Nepal’s Olympic marathoner in 1988 and 1992, and the fastest in the <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/been-there-not-done-that">Everest Marathaon</a>. Throughout it all, her parents thought she was in school. Budha benefited from Rokaya’s mentorship as she could train for free and he took her to races. “My parents only figured out I was running when they heard that I came third in a national-level race in Dharan,” recalls Budha. She won a cash prize of Rs15,000. Budha kept improving and was invited to her first trail race, a 12km course organised by British trail runner Richard Bull, who co-founded trailrunningnepal.org. In July 2021, Sunmaya was signed to Asian Pacific Athlete’s The North Face Adventure Team and she had professional management, coaching, financial support, and equipment.&nbsp; Budha’s first win came in December 2021, when she won the Doi Inthanon UTMB &nbsp;in Thailand, finishing ahead of other renowned Nepali female trail runner <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/mira-rai-racing-to-help-other-runners">Mira Rai</a>. Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/mira-rai-racing-to-help-other-runners">Celebrating the Himalayan Outdoors</a> Sunmaya has since left the team and signed with Kailas, a Chinese company that produces climbing and trail running gear. “Sponsorship is vital because it is enough for me to live, eat and train. And I can get all the equipment, shoes, clothes that I need from them, as long as I only wear their clothes during races” says Budha. In Hong Kong, Budha heard about Andy DuBois, an Australian trail running coach that she wanted to work with. She messaged him on Facebook, and after DuBois grilled her meticulously about her previous training, nutrition, and coaching, took her on. DuBois is still Budha’s coach, and meets with her once a week online to check in and give weekly training plans for times and distances to run.&nbsp; Read also:<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/trail-running-trail-blazer"> Trail-running trail blazer</a>, Sanghamitra Subba “Three days a week I do speed work and two days I run uphills. On Wednesdays I do a long run, and one day a week I’m at the track doing many sets of 200s, 400s, 800s,” details Budha. “Full body strength training is very important for athletes too, I hit the weights about four times a week.” Sunmaya currently lives a nomadic running lifestyle, living and training wherever the next race is, although she is often in Kathmandu or Hong Kong. She stresses the importance of being flexible and mobile, as trail running can lead to a stiff, locked up, injured athlete very easily because of the amount of stress on the body, especially on a downhill. “Every trail runner is a serial ankle sprainer,” says Budha, who loves yoga and follows the Olympics avidly. She keeps her diet organic, avoiding ‘bazar’ foods. Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/struggles-successes-of-south-asian-women-athletes">Struggles, successes of South Asian women athletes</a> The International Trail Running Association (ITRA) recently released a statement with a commitment to making trail running a part of the Brisbane Olympics and Paralympics in 2032. There is a chance that Budha will get to participate in<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/how-to-win-nepal-s-first-olympic-medal"> future Olympics</a>.&nbsp; What Budha likes most about trail running is that it puts her in nature, where the focus is always on how the route will change next, allowing her to remain completely in the present. She likes Europe the best. “The landscape there seems like it was built for trail running,” she says.&nbsp; Budha was also impressed by the development of the sport when she raced in China. She contrasts that with Nepal where she says the few races we have are not promoted well.&nbsp; “Nepalis just don’t want to pay to run in a race,” she adds. Budha is not very optimistic, nor does she expect support from her government. She says, “Of course it would be nice to have them care, but at the end of the day what can I tell them? You have to take control of your own life.”&nbsp;

Run, Sunmaya, run

The past can hold nostalgic memories for many, but for Man Bahadur Chaudhary there are no fond recollections of being a slave bonded to his landowner.
In 2000, Man Bahadur was one of thousands of bonded labourers across the country who were liberated after the Kamaiya system of bonded labour was abolished. The Kamaiya spent their entire lives working for zamindar landowners for no pay, and just got a portion of the food they grew.
“I don’t want to ruin my present by remembering my past,” Man Bahadur tells us in the town of Ghorahi. “I have a good life now and I’m happy with that.”
Man Bahadur's children have taken over running the household. His eldest son, Santu, is a contractor and even provides jobs for others. Of Man Bahadur's three other sons, one works abroad while the two are bus drivers.
“I couldn’t afford to pay for their higher studies but they are doing their best to make a living,” says Man Bahadur, “But at least they do not have to work as slaves like I did.”
Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/opening-their-home-to-others">Opening their home to others</a>, Urmila Gamwa Tharu
Man Bahadur’s neighbour, Sabina Chaudhary, was also a bonded labourer and had never imagined that her son, Swarup, would be a police officer one day. “We worked for someone else with no pay, there was no way we could dream so big,” says Sabina.
Swarup was selected on his first attempt, and the whole village came out to celebrate when he came home in his uniform.&nbsp;
“Like many children of former bonded labourers, I saw my parents work tirelessly in someone else’s house,” he says. “Today, we work tirelessly to stand on our own feet.”
Many of the children of former slaves are now in the Nepal Police, Armed Police Force and Nepal Army, as well as in other government jobs and they have made their parents proud. Many former Kamaiya communities here in the western Tarai are seeing this transformation.
But it has not been easy. Even after they were freed, the former bonded labourers found it difficult to make a living. Sontali Chaudhary had started working as a day-wage labourer to educate her daughter Srijana, but does not need to work as hard anymore after Srijana got a job as a teacher in a government school.
Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/nepali-politician-educates-herself-at-age-43-rcgx53wr">Nepali politician educates herself at age 43</a>, Unnati Chaudhary
“Back then, I was always in a rush to go to work, now I am in a rush to see her off to work,” Sontali says with pride.
Apart from government jobs, many children of former Kamaiya have opted for technical and vocational education and often work as nurses, agriculture technicians, or survey engineers.
Working in the health centre of the village, Sunita Chaudhary is an inspiration to many. Her patients are her biggest fans. She says, “Education has brought about real changes, it has given our community hope.”
The five districts of the western Tarai, which includes Dang, Banke, Bardia, Kailali and Kanchanpur have 42,000 liberated bonded labourers, most of whom have received identity cards that give them access to government services. But there are still about 10,000 former Kamaiya who do not have the cards, and are deprived of access to jobs and state facilities.
“If only the government could extend the identification to everyone in our community, all former bonded labourers could have a better life,” says Harish Chandra Chaudhary, chair of Mukta Kamaiya Samaj. “The older generation’s life went by fighting for liberation. At least the new generation has a chance to forge a new identity.”
Read also: <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=17356">Free of bondage</a>, Shanta Chaudhari

From slavery to salvation

Every morning at dawn, Nashir Khan wakes up to the ruckus of dogs he shelters at his home in Chobhar, all hankering to be fed. As he goes about his day, providing meals for countless community dogs across Kathmandu, he will likely make some ruckus of his own, outraged by those who mistreat the animals. Khan’s dedication to the wellbeing of Kathmandu’s dogs spans many years, administering medicine, taking them to the vet, advocacy through radio, and confrontation with those abusing dogs. Khan has been engaged in charity work most of his life, beginning at age 7 carrying food to imprisoned or hospitalised members of his community. “I don’t think about what I might gain. I don’t even like the word ‘gain’,” he tells us. He was drawn to the plight of dogs after he started caring for a dog a neighbour had neglected. That was where his lifelong commitment to dog care began. Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/kalle-s-cross-continental-journey">Kalle’s cross-continental journey</a>, Nepali Times  <figure><img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2024080211088_0e2d6dd658460bde513bc9ba252f7098ccf1f46d4373e6935d1613dc25290552.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="2024080211088_0e2d6dd658460bde513bc9ba252f7098ccf1f46d4373e6935d1613dc25290552" data-rendition-name="original" width="1778" height="1000" loading="lazy" alt="Must love dogs NT"></figure>  “More than people, dogs have many hardships,” he explains. “I needed to help them.” Although city residents are increasingly accommodating of pets, the same affection is not afforded to street dogs who face much mistreatment and neglect, including from local governments which have used poison to control the stray population. However, the growth of dog-care organisations and social media attention has promoted more humane methods like neutering. The Kathmandu Metropolitan City funded Manumitra project began in 2016, focusing on community awareness and population control. While official records indicate declining numbers and healthier dogs, animal organisations are skeptical. Sneha Shrestha of the Federation for Animal Welfare Nepal, says that the street dog population exceeds 100,000. “On World Rabies Day there are programs publicising vaccination of 40 or 50 dogs, but after that there is very little done,” adds Shrestha who works with a network of street dog organisations. Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/kathmandu-s-street-smart-dogs">Kathmandu’s street-smart dogs</a>, Sonia Awale  <figure><img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2024080211088_582c0526f411dc35a08e1ab137a55a8f3e9ff083894191eac02c0b21ab61451b.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="2024080211088_582c0526f411dc35a08e1ab137a55a8f3e9ff083894191eac02c0b21ab61451b" data-rendition-name="original" width="1778" height="1000" loading="lazy" alt="Must love dogs NT"></figure>  Despite increased advocacy and awareness, the perception of menacing, unclean creatures persists. Between 2022-23 the Epidemiology and Disease Control Division reported 106,993 dog bites, the majority in Kathmandu. To mitigate the risk of diseases such as rabies, organisations working in dog welfare and veterinary services must shoulder the cost of vaccines themselves. Khan was previously involved with animal hospital projects and street dog programs, and has since developed mistrust for the organisations, believing their primary goals are recognition and financial gain. Khan’s work is entirely self-funded, as he patrols the city in a motorbike that serves as a dog ambulance. But he often faces public opposition, and he has been beaten up, once the injuries kept him in bed for more than two weeks. Angry locals challenged his care of dogs when there were so many people in need of help. Still, he remains unfazed, claiming: “When they curse at me I either laugh or just ignore it.” Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/microchipping-nepals-dogs/">Microchipping Nepal’s dogs</a>, Aria Shree Parasai  <figure><img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2024080211088_ea83e6246929af1b2d3835d244dfd502a95bba455a07059db788f9590be9e3a9.jpg" data-media-id="editor_5" data-image-id="2024080211088_ea83e6246929af1b2d3835d244dfd502a95bba455a07059db788f9590be9e3a9" data-rendition-name="original" width="1777" height="1000" loading="lazy" alt="Must love dogs NT"></figure>  Encountering canine abuse has spurred Khan into aggression himself. Recently, when a cyclist ran over a dog sleeping on the road, the initial verbal confrontation escalated into Khan threatening the man with a hacksaw. “I just cannot watch dogs being harmed,” he says. Independent filmmaker Shyam Karki is producing a documentary on Khan titled ‘Unholy Love’. The filmmaker first met Khan in 2015 while he was feeding dogs on the streets of Chhetrapati. The documentary explores how a part of the reason for Khan’s ostracisation is that he is a Muslim. “In other countries Muslims are very strict about don’t do this and don’t do that, but whether I go to heaven or hell is of little relevance to me,” says Khan who is married to a Hindu Newar person. Both faced social exclusion from their communities because of their marriage, but Khan credits his wife for transforming his wayward ways into passion for social work. Lately, Khan has added collective mobilisation to his work, decrying injustices on Facebook and uniting the efforts of other street dog carers. With or without support, his work continues. Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/bhaktapurs-dog-catchers/">Bhaktapur’s dog catchers</a>, Monika Deupala

Must love dogs

Creator of the successful Shangrila hotel group, with properties in Kathmandu, Pokhara, and soon in Chitwan and Begnas, renowned tourism veteran Shyam Bahadur Panday died last week after a long illness.&nbsp; In a double hit for Nepal’s tourism industry, we lost <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/ambica-shrestha-1933-2024-9kaynjv7">Ambica Shrestha</a> the same week, another giant of first wave tourism entrepreneurs. Next generations of family carry both their legacies into the future.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20240730120756_5fe83f58816944a200d05cceb23cb8d3dca994df8353a5dab43f3af0e6160580.png" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="20240730120756_5fe83f58816944a200d05cceb23cb8d3dca994df8353a5dab43f3af0e6160580" data-rendition-name="original" width="1030" height="830" loading="lazy" alt="Shyam Bahadur Pandey mugshot NT"> <figcaption>Shyam Bahadur Panday 1936-2024, one of Nepal's pioneering tourism entrepreneurs</figcaption> </figure>  Shyam had a pioneering vision for hotels that reflected the spirit of Nepal, and had the foresight to hire many of Kathmandu Valleys best expatriate artists and designers to realise his dream.&nbsp; Cleverly spotting a space in the market between Kathmandu’s five-star properties and the budget lodges that were moving from Freak Street to Thamel, he was able to procure a license due to King Birendra’s coronation. Shyam charged <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/regular-columns/So-far-so-good/the-lyrical-life-of-Desmond-Doig,1052">his friend Desmond Doig</a>, to design the perfect mid-level Kathmandu hotel. It opened on 1 July 1979.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2024073013070_eca3189ae138fca1b1249b826c0083f9556bedcaa1356a379e46a6905a69e9a1.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="2024073013070_eca3189ae138fca1b1249b826c0083f9556bedcaa1356a379e46a6905a69e9a1" data-rendition-name="original" width="1366" height="620" loading="lazy" alt="1979 inauguration of Shangrila Hotel NT"> <figcaption>The 1979 inauguration of Shangrila Hotel by Shyam Bahadur Panday (left), his daughter Millu and mother.</figcaption> </figure>  Desmond was an editor, author, painter, designer, photographer, expeditioner and conservationist, a Renaissance man who delighted in the Valley’s vibrant living artistry. Retiring to Nepal in the 1970s after a lifetime in journalism in Kolkata, ‘Des-la’ adapted his talents to architecture and landscape design.&nbsp; Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/so-far-so-good/remembering-des-la-at-shangri-la">Remembering Des-la at Shangri~la</a>, Lisa Choegyal&nbsp; Utpal Sengupta, the curly haired member of Desmond’s original entourage, managed the hotel with flair and imagination for 20 years. Former employees who cut their teeth at the Shangrila can still be found running travel agencies, resorts and restaurants in Kathmandu and beyond.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20240730130724_ce4f4a5d5cc1bbcb21d907698ee1641f74868b00be5af8effe4daab0827c7501.jpg" data-media-id="editor_5" data-image-id="20240730130724_ce4f4a5d5cc1bbcb21d907698ee1641f74868b00be5af8effe4daab0827c7501" data-rendition-name="original" width="3029" height="2412" loading="lazy" alt="Shangrila Hotel plans 1979 NT"> <figcaption>Desmond Doig (left), Elizabeth Hawley, Boris Lissanevitch and Sir Edmund Hillary looking at the Shangrila Hotel plans 1979. Shyam Bahadur Panday requested the talented Desmond to design the original Shangrila Hotel and garden.</figcaption> </figure>  <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/In-memorium-of-Dubby-Bhagat,3180">Writer Dubby Bhagat</a>, artist Robert Powell and designer Chino Ronchoroni were amongst those who contributed their special style in upgrades and additions. Shyam, and later his sons Prasidha and Prabin, maintained a watchful eye over the decades.&nbsp; Read also: <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/book-review-of-Down-History%E2%80%99s-Narrow-Lanes-andMy-Kind-of-Kathmandu,2413">Saving what is left</a>, Sonia Awale The Shangrila Village Pokhara at Gharipatan followed and a site was secured in Meghauli in Chitwan. Pranay Panday proudly showed me the resort at Begnas he was building, overlooking the lake and the Annapurna peaks, faithfully following his grandfather Shyam’s original concept. Shyam’s ‘Shang’ became a fixture for many of us local residents, as well as a friendly base for tourists, trekkers, journalists, consultants and film crews. We would often encounter Shyam lurking in the lobby, a gentle smiling presence always with time for a chat or a laugh, usually on his way to a government or industry meeting.&nbsp; Following a career in the civil service and a Masters’ degree from University of Southern California, Shyam realised his talent for business. After establishing the Shangrila group, he became instrumental in developing responsible tourism policies and regulations with the government, HAN and PATA amongst others, recognised with a lifetime achievement award in business leadership.&nbsp; Read also: <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=1742">The legends still live</a>, Sraddha Basnyat Hotelier colleague Yogendra Shakya recalls his devotion to high class hospitality: “Shyam’s contribution to the tourism sector is unparalleled.” Lingering in the al fresco restaurant, lounging at the hiti pool, or enjoying a hot rum punch by the roaring fire in the lobby bar, one might have run into <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=19173">Tony Hagen the Swiss development pioneer</a> who walked the length of Nepal, Dudley Spain long-term British Embassy implant, UNICEF’s Gordon ‘Golden’ Temple before he decamped to Bhutan, Jim Edwards the indefatigable owner of Tiger Tops, or <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/hiking-with-jimmy">Col Jimmy Roberts</a> with his floppy-eared spaniels, the founder of trekking in Nepal.&nbsp; <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=10754">The legendary Boris Lissanevitch</a> regularly graced the kitchens as a special guest chef, bearing bottles of flavoured vodka and bones to make his famous borscht.&nbsp; Dame Freya Stark, Arabist explorer and British eccentric, was one of the first to stay at the Shangrila. Already in her 80s and rather forgetful, she declared on arrival: “I feel we must be somewhere east of the Euphrates.”&nbsp; We arranged two treks for her in the early 1980s with her favourite hill pony named Red Balls. Freya wrote in the Shangrila guest book: “This is the finest hotel I have ever stayed in with the nicest people in it.”  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20240730130728_66048d35cc12a3818bd29b2ef833184a30d110b0734eb2f89dc0c3ac3024bf42.jpg" data-media-id="editor_12" data-image-id="20240730130728_66048d35cc12a3818bd29b2ef833184a30d110b0734eb2f89dc0c3ac3024bf42" data-rendition-name="original" width="970" height="688" loading="lazy" alt="Dame Freya Start NT"> <figcaption>British explorer, Dame Freya Stark was one of the first celebrity writers to stay at Shyam's Shangrila Hotel in 1980, with Lisa Choegyal</figcaption> </figure>  Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/so-far-so-good/adventurers-in-a-vanishing-land">Adventurers in a vanishing land</a>, Lisa Choegyal <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/review/highs-and-lows-of-sir-ed">The great burra sahib Sir Edmund Hillary</a>, an ardent Shangrila fan, was feted with a garden dinner by his Sherpa friends to mark the Everest Golden Jubilee 50th anniversary in 2003. Suites were named after him and <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/was-tenzing-a-tibetan-nepali-or-indian-it-does-not-matter">Tenzing Norgay</a>.&nbsp; <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/multimedia/what-next-for-reinhold-messner">Reinhold Messner</a> stopped by between 8,000m peaks. <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/climber-activist-david-breashears-68-5jqz27nf">David Breashears</a>, maker of IMAX Everest documentary that put Sagarmatha on the trekking map, used the garden as a quiet haven to shoot interviews, &nbsp;including with British film director Stephen Daldry (The Crown and Billy Elliot).&nbsp; Writer and nomadic traveller <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/regular-columns/So-far-so-good/When-Bruce-Chatwin-was-in-Chitwan,1017">Bruce Chatwin </a>came as one of a long line of yeti-hunters en route to the mountains. American Mikel Dunham visited annually, author of Buddha’s Warriors and my co-editor of <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/from-liz-hawley-in-kathmandu">Elizabeth Hawley’</a>s diaries The Nepal Scene, which covered the turbulent political and social history of Nepal from 1988-2007.&nbsp; Over the years Shyam’s Shangrila Hotel hosted local weddings, rites of passage and some remarkable celebrations. Desmond arranged Utpal’s marriage to Caroline (of Chez Caroline) in 1981 amidst the terraces, fountains and newly planted marigolds in that soothing garden.&nbsp; The Prime Minister attended the 1994 reception honouring the Himalayan chronicler, Elizabeth Hawley, with 35 years of service to Reuters. Always a stickler for accuracy, to our embarrassment she kept interrupting the regional boss’ laudatory speech with factual corrections.&nbsp; Kunda Dixit had survived as Miss Hawley’s youthful journalist intern: “The Shangrila garden reminds me of Desmond Doig who was pivotal to my early career.” As Nepali Times’ publisher, Kunda chose it to mark its twentieth year and one thousandth issue in July 2020. As befitted a celebration in the time of Covid, numbers were limited, the party was muted, and hugs and handshakes were replaced by knuckle taps, elbow embraces and namastes. It would be one of the last events held there. Read also:<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/1-000-weeks-of-nepali-times"> 1,000 weeks of Nepali Times</a>, Mark Turin Today the old Shangrila Hotel is a gaping hole in Lazimpath’s landscape, an empty space echoing with memories. Under the direction of Shyam’s two sons and their offspring, Kathmandu, Pokhara, Chitwan and Begnas are in preparation to launch under the prestigious Intercontinental (and Indigo) brands. Whilst the family hotel properties are reincarnated to meet the changing times, founder of the dynasty late Shyam Bahadur Panday’s inheritance will continue to set benchmarks for the future.&nbsp;

Lisa Choegyal

Shyam’s Shangrila

After graduation Danber Maden was working as an accountant and in his spare time practising his passion for sketching. Wanting to adapt his talent to digital design, he joined a new course at Bhanu Jana Secondary School here. Today, Maden is a mentor for new students at what has become the IT Academy, Taplejung. The 24-year-old is now juggling various online design gigs with companies worldwide, and earning much more than he did as an accountant. “I’m learning 3D design and motion graphics, animation from YouTube,” says Maden, sitting in the spacious Academy on the grounds of the secondary school. Light-coloured walls, extra high ceilings and a wide wooden staircase give the building a bright touch. Nearby is a group working area fronting the wood-panelled Pernille’s Coffee Bar. It is named after Pernille Madsen, founder of Human Practice Foundation (HPF), a Danish NGO that has been supporting schools and their communities in Taplejung since 2017.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20240728130728_9c530879e791f54e0ea3de2c78efe7cf68add4935b663f7f7b2dc1e52ce0dd71.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="20240728130728_9c530879e791f54e0ea3de2c78efe7cf68add4935b663f7f7b2dc1e52ce0dd71" data-rendition-name="original" width="4032" height="3024" loading="lazy" alt="IT Academy Taplejung NT 3"> <figcaption>Photo: MARTY LOGAN</figcaption> </figure>  Launched in 2014, HPF also runs programmes in Denmark and Kenya.&nbsp; Donor Waldemar Schmidt says he and his Academy co-founders wanted to give students at HPF-supported schools in the district another option after graduating.&nbsp; “Some years ago I started thinking, ‘what happens to the children when they leave the school? Have we done the job of giving the children a better future’? The simple answer was ‘no, I don’t think we have—we need to do more’,” he says in a Zoom interview from Denmark. The Academy opened in November 2023. To date, 61 students have graduated and 14 are working online, says Bhanu Jana’s head teacher Kishor Kumar Rai. Some are working for companies in Singapore, Denmark and South Korea.&nbsp; “They are earning more money here than doing other work so they are happy to stay in Taplejung,” adds Rai. “The Academy will stop migration and also the brain drain of youth.” A new, six-month session on graphic design and digital marketing started in June. Besides the technical component, students also learn the skills needed to become successful online freelancers, such as writing offers and negotiating contracts.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20240728140712_918f5db890b05fe967117391d621bce6eafc41652323ec4eb3f8782a4f300bcc.png" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="20240728140712_918f5db890b05fe967117391d621bce6eafc41652323ec4eb3f8782a4f300bcc" data-rendition-name="original" width="1010" height="556" loading="lazy" alt="IT Academy Taplejung NT 2"> </figure>  By 2028, HPF aims to have graduated up to 800 digital workers in courses that include web development and cyber-security in Levels 2 and 3. Graduates of Level 1 will need to pay tuition for advanced courses and prove that they are already earning as freelancers, explains Schmidt. “We don’t want to be known as a place that does a bit of everything. We want to build a brand which is very strong in graphic design and cyber security,” he adds. A former CEO, Schmidt knew HPF founder Madsen from the corporate world. Today he is the driving force behind the IT Academy, as quick to recite the latest facts and figures as he is to share a vision for the next decade. Schmidt estimates that after graduating from Level 1 students will have the potential to earn $500 a month, compared to the $200 locals make working in banks and other offices. After taking Level 2 and 3 courses in graphic design and cyber security, earnings will rise to $1,000-2,000 monthly, he predicts. &nbsp; HPF now subsidises tuition, leaving students to pay 15%, or about Rs 5,000, of the cost of the courses. Schmidt says donors in his personal network have covered the remaining amount (about $500 per student) for the first 100 students this year. For the next session he hopes sponsors will chip in $1,500 per student, enough to also buy each one a laptop. An enthusiastic, well-connected former CEO, the 84-year-old Schmidt has also called on his network to take on graduates in their firms as interns, and convinced WorldLink to provide the Academy with fibre-optic Internet at no cost. Developing students’ skills so that they are competitive globally will also happen gradually, says Schmidt, in part because of English-language skills. In the beginning, the Academy will focus on work experience in Asia. Already it has arranged virtual internships in companies in Singapore, Vietnam and Indonesia. The Academy’s 10-point manifesto is also training women students who can continue working as freelancers while raising families. Women make up 60% of students, and head of the Academy Basanta Palungwa says female students design more creatively, in part because they are more patient.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2024072814074_ab971ae77232481761249c23b7e88584ac303fa39fb448ddbaf9b9fde0676f86.jpg" data-media-id="editor_2" data-image-id="2024072814074_ab971ae77232481761249c23b7e88584ac303fa39fb448ddbaf9b9fde0676f86" data-rendition-name="original" width="2290" height="1407" loading="lazy" alt="IT Academy Taplejung NT 1"> </figure>  The Academy also aims to digitise and engage the community in this remote corner of north-eastern Nepal. Plans include a course for the general public on using smartphones and tablets, and WorldLink will soon install wifi hotspots. Also in the planning stage is vocational training for those who are not inclined to IT. HPF-supported secondary schools in Taplejung are graduating about 1,000 students a year, but the IT Academy will be able to accommodate less than half of them. Says Schmidt: “They may be frustrated because they’ve been to a good school and they see no future after graduating, so we need to make sure that there’s a link to the labour market.” After graduating, Danber Maden’s freelance work now includes four hours daily for Bookmundi, a Denmark based travel agency. After interning there for one year he was recently promoted to Junior Graphic Designer.&nbsp; For the past year he has also been designing social media posts for GenX Pharmacy, an online business based in Kathmandu. And he has local clients, including candidates who ran in the last elections. The local boy seems to have found his niche online. Asked what he sees himself doing in 10 years, Maden responds confidently: “Senior designer or art director.”

Going global to retain local talent

While the rest of Nepal has gone cynical about federalism, it has <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/nation/Federalism-in-the-capital-of-Tarai,3449">opened doors here in Janakpur</a>, the seat of Madhes Province. Its Mithila culture has got new national and global exposure, footfalls have increased and there is a new visible presence of development agencies. Some of this has come at a cost to <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/20-years-ago-this-week/birganj-is-the-prize">Birganj 70km away</a>, which was always the commercial hub of the central Tarai and a gateway to Nepal via the land route. In fact Birganj and Janakpur were rivals in the contention of which city would be the capital of Madhes Province. But Birganj also has a new vibrancy in culture, the arts and cuisine. Abhishek Jha is a lawyer and researcher from Madhes Province. JANAKPUR There used to be a time when <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/the-sita-ram-corridor">Janakpur was synonymous with the Janaki Temple</a>, dedicated to the birthplace of Sita. The temple is still a draw, but Janakpur now has a new set of footfalls, and there is a certain order to the chaos of this border city. As the capital of Madhes Province, there are government agencies, new institutions and a heavy presence of the development sector. There are now at least a dozen flights to and from Kathmandu every day, propelling the city’s socio-cultural dynamic. There is a pursuit for ‘uniqueness’ and at the heart of this is an active effort to make <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/vibrant-mithila-art-thrives-in-nepal">Mithila art</a> more palatable to the pan-Nepali public: with paintings, merchandise, cutlery, apparel, stationery items and other paraphernalia. A pioneer in this revival are the artists of Janakpur Women’s Development Center. The 800 year old Maithali folk-dance form called Jhijhiya has found new platforms and audiences at cultural events like the annual literature and theatre festivals held here. There is an attempt to make it more contemporary and address progressive issues like gender empowerment.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20240727060728_ffcab59231faaf3a0ce4e68e7f97e6cb6ed1e76a185e91db1d5d6253136123f3.jpg" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="20240727060728_ffcab59231faaf3a0ce4e68e7f97e6cb6ed1e76a185e91db1d5d6253136123f3" data-rendition-name="original" width="2480" height="1647" loading="lazy" alt="Janakpur"> </figure>  The Mithila Thali has found fans, largely due to the culinary curation of Master Chef Santosh Shah and his popular new restaurant at Ramananda Chok. A trip to Janakpur nowadays is perceived as incomplete without a stop here. The choreographed spectacle of offering evening prayers at Gangasagar may not be as impressive as the one in Banaras, but it is quaint with ‘Yah chhai hamar Janakpur…Janak k gaam Janakpur…Sita k Janakpur…’ playing in the background. Janak has rebranded itself as a cultural hub that transcends Mithila and aims to encompass a new, inclusive Nepal. The local media and social media play an important role in disseminating this identity. There are six other federal provinces in Nepal, but only Madhes is a broadly ethnic enclave, and Janakpur stands only second to Kathmandu in the national discourse. Part of the reason for this could be Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi making it a point in 2018 to make a <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/janakpur-to-janakpur">special visit to Janakpur</a>.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20240727060728_867e16a8ec8f9d9cf8116e6854c1c3a3fe67f7287b2af4d90b15f6f30e4e5df9.jpg" data-media-id="editor_6" data-image-id="20240727060728_867e16a8ec8f9d9cf8116e6854c1c3a3fe67f7287b2af4d90b15f6f30e4e5df9" data-rendition-name="original" width="4288" height="2848" loading="lazy" alt="Janakpur"> </figure>  Janakpur’s geopolitical status is now higher and many Kathmandu-based ambassadors make it a point to visit, adding to its reputation and importance. Madhes Province can showcase its development since the first federal elections in 2017 with greater women’s empowerment in a traditional patriarchal society. Government offices now have more women faces, there are more women shopkeepers in the market and banks, female participation in schools and colleges are higher. Some of this could be due to male outmigration, but there is no denying that the women of Madhes now have a stronger voice. Janakpur has become more liberal in accepting other languages of the province besides Maithali, like Bhojpuri, Bajjika, Tharu, Urdu and Nepali. Unlike during the Madhes Movement of 2015, there is a new acceptance and assimilation of other communities. There is now a proclivity in the public and government to demonstrate inclusion, both in principle and practice.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2024072704078_c960c809d218d58600b35803f5fbe4fd58a42165d8373aa55e01454404fd98c8.jpg" data-media-id="editor_7" data-image-id="2024072704078_c960c809d218d58600b35803f5fbe4fd58a42165d8373aa55e01454404fd98c8" data-rendition-name="original" width="2000" height="868" loading="lazy" alt="Siwalik"> <figcaption>White lines show the width of the Siwalik range.</figcaption> </figure>  BIRGANJ As a <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/12-full-opinion/birganj-waits-for-the-boom">commercial hub and the road gateway to Nepal, Birganj</a> is brash. Its people seem to be in a perpetual hurry to get somewhere, and as a city through which 80% of Nepal ’s exports and imports pass through, it also has a strategic importance. Proof of that were the many road blockages during the 2015 Madhes Movement here.&nbsp; Unlike Janakpur, <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/Birganj-mero-saharko-katha,2920">Birganj</a> seems quite content not to have too much to do with politics. In fact, some of the statues of Bhanubhakta and G P Koirala have been reinstated, along with the Maithili poet Vidyapati. Along with Bhojpuri, the city is equally fluent in Nepali, Maithili, Nepal Bhasa, Bajjika, Bangla, Punjabi, Marwari and Hindi. Inclusion, it seems, is good for business. But it also means by trying to be everything for everyone, it lacks a cultural identity of its own. Birganj is astride the <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/borderlines/nepal-s-soft-power-is-its-heritage">ancient kingdom of Simraungad</a> which one time ruled over Kathmandu Valley before it was razed and pillaged by the Tughlaq ruler of Delhi in 1326. Today it is better known as the ‘Land of Astavakra’ and ‘Gateway to Nepal’. The faux-Newari Sankracharya Pravesh Dwar gate at the border across from Raxaul marks this attempt to straddle both cultures.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20240727060728_b292c88080303b1a56efada9fe07c1096e90bb8867b91189501530a2045aeb8a.jpg" data-media-id="editor_11" data-image-id="20240727060728_b292c88080303b1a56efada9fe07c1096e90bb8867b91189501530a2045aeb8a" data-rendition-name="original" width="2480" height="1660" loading="lazy" alt="Birganj"> </figure>  Birganj was a hub of political dissidence during the Rana regime and late in the pro-democracy movement because of the culture of questioning in public and private discussions.&nbsp; As befitting a city that serves as a connector and the gateway to the industrial corridor to the north, <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/holi-in-birganj">Birganj</a> has a new cosmopolitan ambience. The people of Birganj are now better travelled, and interested in eating out with family and are in search for diverse cuisines.&nbsp; Although the city has a variety of restaurants, new age cafes, pizza and burger eateries offer a variety in Adarshnagar, Gawaha Mai and Ranighat. Mouth-watering chaats, bhuja-pakora, dahi-chiura, sattu, lassi, kachori-tarkari-jilebi can be found here. Chiya pasal are the public sphere, with vibrant places for socio-political discussions and hangout spots for college goers.&nbsp; Try the Bhojpuria Thali. Starters (Mahi, bel sarbat, anandi-chawal bhuja, litti-chokha, pakora), Main Course (Manshuli/basmati bhaat, rahri daal, danauri-tilauri, sukhwat, chokha, tarkari, papad, machhari, dahi, mitha), Desserts (Dudh-puwa, bagiya, haluwa).  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20240727060728_9691e252b5ce723b6922f88418caa3eda43e02fba1a65c19043b1fd6ea10c7e9.jpg" data-media-id="editor_13" data-image-id="20240727060728_9691e252b5ce723b6922f88418caa3eda43e02fba1a65c19043b1fd6ea10c7e9" data-rendition-name="original" width="2480" height="1715" loading="lazy" alt="Birganj"> </figure>  The art scene has been made vibrant by the likes of local artists like Azmat Ali and Mukesh Mahato. Bhojpuri art is at a stage where Mithila art was probably five-six years ago. Further there is lack of synchrony in blaring horns, whistles and DJs. There is no single sound to identify with the city.&nbsp; ‘Lollipop laagelu’ has transcended national boundaries and seeped into Nepali pop-culture. But this has created a limited understanding of Bhojpuri music. A large music space, besides few good attempts, awaits virtuous artists to build a different image of Nepali Bhojpuri Music. The music and art has to struggle and evolve in its ideation, identity and commerce. The Maha Aarati at Sano Pashupatinath Temple in Pipara tries to do what Janakpur has done with Gangasagar Arati. Indian Bhojpuri music still dominates over Chaiti, Sohar and Purbi of literary giants like Bhikhari Thakur and Mahendar Misir.&nbsp; Cities have a persona of their own, they have character, visual traits, distinct taste buds and utility. They get embroiled in symbolism derived from primary activities or major significance it holds. There is also history in Birganj with <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/from-nalapani-to-kalapani">Sugauli</a>, where the 1815 treaty with the East India Company was signed, 30km from here. Today, most people from north India, west and east Nepal have been travelling by train to pass Sugauli station. The route became so prominent that India constructed the Raxaul Junction adjacent to Birganj border. On our side, we had Raxaul-Amlekhganj railway, Nepal's first, as early as 1927. Birganj was where Nepal’s first university, Nepal Rashtriya Vidyapeeth, was established with Ganesh Man Singh as Chancellor and Laxmi Prasad Devkota as Vice-Chancellor at one point. Furthermore, Thakur Ram Multiple Campus in Adarshnagar is a six decade old college and alma mater of many of Nepal’s who’s who. Littérateurs like Pandit Deep Narayan Mishra, Gopal Ask, Uma Shankar Dwiwedi, Dinesh Gupta, Mukund Acharya, Purshottam Sharma and Anita Shah are Birganj's literary torch-bearers.&nbsp;

Tales of 2 cities

More than 2.5 million Nepalis left the country just in the last three years to study and work abroad. In the past year alone, <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/push-factors-driving-nepalis-out">nearly 900,000 students and migrant workers flew out of Kathmandu airport</a>. These figures do not include those who crossed over to India.&nbsp;
There were, of course, returnees in that period, but it is estimated that up to 16% of Nepal’s population at any given time is outside the country. Most of them are 20-35 years old, which means an estimated q<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/nepals-demographic-window-is-closing">uarter of all Nepalis in that age group are abroad</a>.&nbsp;
It is mandatory for students going overseas to get a certificate from the Ministry of Education, and last year alone 112,593 were issued -- nearly double the pre-Covid figure (graph, below).
Before leaving, Nepali students officially exchanged Rs117 billion last year into hard currency to pay for their education costs. The actual figure through unregulated channels is probably higher.
<div class="embed-block"><iframe title="MORE NO OBJECTIONS" aria-label="Column Chart" id="datawrapper-chart-OBL1y" src="https://datawrapper.dwcdn.net/OBL1y/2/" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" style="width: 0; min-width: 100% !important; border: none;" height="600" data-external="1"></iframe><script type="text/javascript">!function(){"use strict";window.addEventListener("message",(function(a){if(void 0!==a.data["datawrapper-height"]){var e=document.querySelectorAll("iframe");for(var t in a.data["datawrapper-height"])for(var r=0;r<e.length;r++)if(e[r].contentWindow===a.source){var i=a.data["datawrapper-height"][t]+"px";e[r].style.height=i}}}))}(); </script>All graphs: RAMESH KUMAR</div>
<div class="embed-block"><iframe title="$ in, $ out" aria-label="Column Chart" id="datawrapper-chart-gUPnY" src="https://datawrapper.dwcdn.net/gUPnY/4/" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" style="width: 0; min-width: 100% !important; border: none;" height="600" data-external="1"></iframe><script type="text/javascript">!function(){"use strict";window.addEventListener("message",(function(a){if(void 0!==a.data["datawrapper-height"]){var e=document.querySelectorAll("iframe");for(var t in a.data["datawrapper-height"])for(var r=0;r<e.length;r++)if(e[r].contentWindow===a.source){var i=a.data["datawrapper-height"][t]+"px";e[r].style.height=i}}}))}(); </script></div>
Meanwhile, the 4 million <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/guest-editorial/the-migration-myth">Nepali migrant workers</a> in Malaysia, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, UAE, Kuwait, Korea, Europe and elsewhere sent back through banking channels Rs1.47 trillion in remittances ($11 billion) last year. Actual figures are higher.
“The great irony is that while poorer Nepalis toil in the Gulf and Malaysia to increase our foreign exchange reserves, middle and upper class families are exchanging a part of that money to pay for college fees, travel and medical care abroad,” points out migration researcher Ganesh Gurung.
The numbers going to Australia and Canada dropped last year because of visa restrictions. But that has been more than made up by a 30% uptick in <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/nepal-s-hard-working-students-overseas">Nepali students</a> going to the US (11,261) and UK (13,339) compared to last year.
But by far the largest number of students are going to <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/why-nepalis-are-flocking-to-okinawa">Japan</a> (34,731) which is also an increase of 30% over the previous year (map, below). Numbers going to <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/yo-man-ta-mero-nepali-ho">South Korea</a> doubled in one year to 6,889.&nbsp;
Nepalis go to 66 countries for higher studies, with <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/looking-for-the-nepali-dream">Denmark</a>, Finland and France becoming more popular, although the numbers are still much lower than the top six.
Till recently, Nepalis were the third largest number of foreign students in Australia. They were number three also in Canada. Nepalis were among the top ten in the US.
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It is no secret that many young Nepalis leaving on student visas <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/migration-certificate">intend to emigrate permanently</a>.&nbsp;
Countries in the Global North experiencing declining populations know this, but find it a convenient way to allow controlled entry for much-needed workers in the service or tech sectors.
“Many young Nepalis plan to settle in first-world countries eventually, or to return only after 10-20 years,” affirms migration expert Ganesh Gurung.&nbsp;
“Destination countries benefit too, they are getting a new generation of cheap labour without having spent anything on raising or educating them. What’s more, they also earn university fees. It’s a way for them to allow calibrated migration,” he adds.
Nearly half the students coming out of 10+2 schools opt to go <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/regular-columns/Between-the-lines/More-Nepali-students-settle-overseas,528">abroad for higher education</a>, leading to a significant drop in college enrolment across Nepal.&nbsp;
Just like migrant workers are a safety valve that lets the government off the hook from providing jobs at home, students going abroad allows the state to dodge its responsibility to improve higher education quality here.&nbsp;
Indeed, some argue that better universities and colleges in Nepal would not lessen the exodus of young Nepalis, because many of them intend to emigrate for good.&nbsp;
“Yes, student visas have become a means to an end, <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/editorial/hardworking-students">the goal is to work and settle</a>,” says Narottam Aryal of King’s College in Kathmandu. “But more alarming than the figures of students leaving is that we are taking it so casually, calling it normal."&nbsp;
He adds: “Let us not worry about people who will leave anyway, but focus on the students who will stay if Nepal’s higher education is system is redesigned, repurposed and reformed to foster an entrepreneurial mindset so they benefit the country.”&nbsp;
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The method of education in state-run colleges and universities are still stuck in the era of rote learning taught by under-motivated teachers using outdated curricula, regurgitating memorised answers at exam time. The university environment is politicised and there are frequent disruptions with delayed exam results.
One way to change this is twinning with international universities, but for this there has to be a less xenophobic and transparent government machinery that is open to new methods.
“Accreditations, partnerships and exchanges with institutions around the world will open up opportunities for students,” says Aryal. “The government should welcome foreign universities, they will force us to raise the standard of our education.”
Information technology and <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/grass-is-greener-overseas-for-nepals-doctors">medicine</a> are among the most lucrative options for Nepali students abroad. Institutions of higher learning in Nepal itself could specialise in inter-disciplinary liberal arts, social studies, agriculture and the environment, public health, hospitality, or heritage studies.&nbsp;
Youth are also leaving because there is no guarantee of jobs even when they get a higher degree here. <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/editorial/brain-drain-into-brain-gain">The informal sector</a> is still the biggest employer, and job options in private companies and civil service are limited.&nbsp;
Ganesh Gurung says the education sector must adapt to the changing labour market such that Nepal produces skilled human resources in the areas with high demand like <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/nursing-grievances-against-the-state">nursing</a>.
He adds, “The focus must be on our strengths. The economy can be revived by making the best use of Nepal’s natural beauty to generate jobs in the hospitality industry, and turn it into a <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/go-away">destination for international retirees</a>.”&nbsp;

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