East meets West at Kathmandu jazz

Heads swinging in the air. Shoulders jiggling. Hands and feet taping in time with the rhythm. People humming along. This was a common sight throughout this week’s Surya Nepal Jazzmandu.

The guitar, drums, piano, flute, sarangi (even tapping feet) and other musical instruments fused on stage every evening, producing soulful melodies to keep the audience warm through Kathmandu’s autumn chill.

This was the 20th edition of the jazz festival which started on 24 October featuring international and national artists including the likes of Swiss-French trumpeter Erik Trufazz, Aussie Owen James Newcomb, jazz saxophonist, flamenco singer and composer Antonio Lizana, our very own Cadenza Collective and artists from the Dhrupad Gurukul in Kathmandu. 

“I really like it here in Nepal, people are friendly, there is virtually no road rage,” Erik Trufazz told nepali Times during one of the parties ahead of their performances. “I have known about Jazzmandu for a while, my sound technician has been with the festival for a quite some time but only this year did everything align for me to be here too. The audience has been warm and receptive.”

The annual event (except for the Covid years) first started in 2002 at the height of the Maoist insurgency with the intention of uniting people through music and simultaneously prioritising cultural interaction, music education and promoting tourism in Nepal.

“The first edition was rather easy. Everything fell into place. It was as if destiny was leading the way,” says Navin Chettri, one of the founding members of Surya Nepal Jazzmandu who is also the vocalist and drummer of Nepali folk Jazz band Cadenza Collective. “What is harder is to maintain the legacy.”

 The jazz scene is ever-evolving and so is the festival but in the recent editions, it is clear that cultural interaction has been more prominent with the collaboration that have taken place between national and international artists.

“Jazzmandu has stayed true to the essence of what it was,” says Owen James Newcomb of Australian Jazz band Afro Dizzi Act who was here for the first edition in 2002 and was back this year.

Nick Aggs of the same band has been performing in Jazzmandu for the past six years, and agrees: “Kathmandu has become a fertile land for music to flourish. The cross-pollination of music that is happening here says it all.”

Jazz has often been credited for embracing culture and diversity, and is known for collaborating with different genres of music. Here in Kathmandu, the festival has taken a step further to blend jazz with eastern music genres. For example this year a Spanish flamenco performer tap dances to the beat of classical Nepali tabla.

“We’ve been performing jazz all over the world and the perception of jazz can be sectioned. The open mindedness people here in Kathmandu when it comes to jazz is the most exciting,” said Shannon Sol Carroll of Afro Dizzi Act speaking to Nepali Times before their  finale at the Malla Hotel on Wednesday.

The demographic of the audience is also changing. While expats and tourists still make up the majority of the audience, younger Nepalis are now a significant presence. There are others like Zoe Meister, 20, who is in Kathmandu as part of her exchange programme. The first experience has already left her wanting for more.

Women still remain a minority in the Jazz scene globally. But this edition of Jazz Festival featured an all female band Sheroes from the US and highlighted singer Alma Naidu and her quartet from Germany and classical singer Jonisha Paudel from Nepal. 

Paudel’s high notes (shall we call it ‘ragajazz’?) underlined the amalgamation of eastern and western music. On initial hearing, the music did come off as Hindustani Classical but as the gig progressed, the sound of tabla, sitar fused with trombone and bass guitar to enhance the symbiosis. Her performance at Yalamaya Kendra on 29 October brought the house down. 

On the same day, Sheroes sang its own version of My Favourite Things from the 1965 musical The Sound of Music. Seeing the majority of women perform on the same stage made the performance even more inspiring.

As the 20th edition of the jazz feast comes to an end, Chettri says, “When the younger musicians come up to me and tell me they are inspired seeing artists in our festivals, I believe we have been successful in setting up jazz culture in Kathmandu and our legacy.”

Jazzing up Gokarna

The third day of Jazzmandu, dubbed Jazz Bazaar, took place at Gokarna Forest Resort. This was the longest day, starting at 3PM and running until 10 at night unlike most days of the jazz festival that happened exclusively in the evenings.

The stage and the stands for food and drinks were set up in an open meadow at the expansive Gokarna Forest Resort. The stage was the first thing on the left, and the bars were set up opposite that a bit further away.

Further in the area there were food stalls presumably set up by the hotel selling food like chowmein, chicken wings, and paneer pakodas. There were bonfires set up which provided quick bursts of much needed warmth in the chilly October evening.

Perhaps owing to the location, the crowd seemed much younger than at most of the other days of the festival. There were many children and young adults, both Nepali and foreign. Many seemed to be tourists from South Asia, Europe, the USA, or Australia. The audience either sat in chairs or benches set up opposite the stage, or on mats on the floor right in front of the musicians. 

One of the main acts of the night was Swiss-French trumpeter Erik Trufazz and his band, a quartet also including keyboard, bass and drums. Trufazz and the band were exceptional with a strong rock element to their act and soon the audience were bobbing their heads or tapping their feet to the music.

They were followed by the Antonio Lizana Quintet, spearheaded by jazz saxophonist, flamenco singer and composer Antonio Lizana. The quintet was made up of Lizana on saxophone, a guitar, a bass, drums, and a flamenco dancer.

The dancing, done by a member of the five called El Mawi, provided a strong performance aspect to their set and was visually drawing. The tapping nature of the dance also added a quick rhythm on top of the drums.

There was also a performance by artists from the Dhrupad Gurukul in Kathmandu. Dhrupad is an ancient Hindustani classical musical tradition characterised by ragas and swaras.

The group had sitar and flute players as well as percussion, on a big two-sided Indian drum called the pakhavaj. Their music was accompanied by trippy visuals.

Vishad Raj Onta