At the annual Nepal Power Summit in Kathmandu on 18-19 April, officials called on India to allow Nepal to export power at real-time prices, not just in the day-ahead market. Also discussed was a need for more flexible guidelines on market access for Nepal’s electricity to India which currently buys power on a project-to-project basis, pointedly boycotting those built by Chinese investment or contractors. India’s interest in regulating Nepal’s rivers is not new, but with the Himalaya becoming a geopolitical and climate hotspot, its strategic interest in regulating river flow has grown.&nbsp; Climate models show that the hydrology of Himalayan rivers will change dramatically in the coming decades, with peak water in the 2030s, and low flow levels in the dry season thereafter. With 70% of the annual discharge on the Ganga flowing down from rivers in Nepal, 75% of it in the four monsoon months, storage projects in the mountains will be ever more important. Because of this, New Delhi would like pliant politicians in place in Kathmandu that will not obstruct its plans to ensure future water supply, and given current geopolitical tensions, this also means keeping the Chinese out.&nbsp; Ever since Sher Bahadur Deuba became prime minister for the fifth time in 2021, he has fast-tracked a slew of projects in which Indian companies are involved, including the West Seti reservoir project that has languished for 20 years mainly because of Indian objections to Australian and Chinese investment. Most recently, Indian National Hydroelectricity Power Corporation (NHPC) Limited is in talks to be awarded the 480MW Phukot Karnali Hydroelectric Project in Kalikot jointly with Nepal’s state-owned Vidyut Utpadan Company Limited with a share ratio of 51% to 49%. The project will likely be launched during Prime Minister Pushpa Kamal Dahal’s state visit to India in May. India’s NHPC has already been granted licenses for West Seti and Seti River-6 projects, and is also eyeing another 1,902MW megaproject on the Karnali.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2023050603050_10fc6c82b0d995c39b388d8d8628365ea5e2299a1f4d474e2c2d5b7f01d37d83.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="2023050603050_10fc6c82b0d995c39b388d8d8628365ea5e2299a1f4d474e2c2d5b7f01d37d83" data-rendition-name="original" width="3776" height="2424" loading="lazy" alt="West Seti"> <figcaption>Sushil Bhatta of Investment Board Nepal and Abhay Kumar Singh of India's NHPC, after signing an agreement to develop the 760MW West Seti and 460MW Seti River 6 projects in 2022.</figcaption> </figure>  In fact, across Nepal, Indian companies are building hydropower projects which will add a combined total of 4,000MW to the grid, three of which were rushed through only in the past year. Three more Indian projects are in the pipeline.&nbsp; Why the sudden renewed Indian interest in Nepal’s rivers? And what is the hurry? The answer lies in the need to plan for the decades ahead when water is going to be an even scarcer commodity in the Indo-Gangetic plains than it is now because of climate change, increased industrial, agricultural and household consumption. Energy analysts say that although India’s interest seems to be in renewable energy from hydropower to fulfil its decarbonisation commitments, exports of power from Nepal is only projected at $800 million in the next three years, which will only be a tiny percentage of the 1,600 billion kWh that India generated in the last fiscal year.&nbsp; And although power demand is expected to rise with rising incomes, industrialisation and increasingly intense summer heat waves in the plains, India’s long-term interest is in reservoir projects to store monsoon water in Nepal’s rivers to reduce monsoon flood risk and keep rivers flowing in the dry season. And New Delhi has not tried to hide its distaste for any Chinese involvement in these projects.&nbsp; Hydropower Investment and Development Company Nepal (HIDCL) in which the government is a majority shareholder informed the Investment Board Nepal in February that it was withdrawing from the export-oriented 762MW Tamor Hydropower project.&nbsp; CEO Arjun Kumar Gautam is upfront about why: “We cannot sell electricity generated with Chinese involvement in the Indian market.” Tamor was one of the two projects agreed upon during Chinese President Xi Jinping’s visit to Nepal in October 2019. Soon after, Investment Board Nepal (IBN) signed up China Construction to build the project after completing a feasibility study. The HIDCL now wants to null the agreement with the Chinese contractor and bring in a new contractor more amenable to the Indians. Meanwhile, India’s state-owned <a href="https://sjvn.nic.in/">Satluj Jal Vidyut Nigam</a>, which is involved in a cascade of projects on the adjoining Arun River to generate a total of 2,000MW, is said to be aggressively lobbying top Nepali officials to also build Tamor. Besides the 900MW Arun 3, Satluj was awarded the Lower Arun by the K P Oli-led government in 2021 without competitive bidding. Then in May 2022, the Sher Bahadur Deuba-led government suddenly awarded Arun 4 to Satluj (with a 51% share) during Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s visit to Lumbini.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230506020556_4f38ffb96de37f17c662684914f0b65ab41adaaf98183a073273e88621de480b.jpg" data-media-id="editor_2" data-image-id="20230506020556_4f38ffb96de37f17c662684914f0b65ab41adaaf98183a073273e88621de480b" data-rendition-name="original" width="1000" height="666" loading="lazy" alt="Arun 4 agreement"> <figcaption>Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi and then Prime Minister Sher Bahadur Deuba look on as Satluj Jal Vidyut Nigam's Nanda Lal Sharma and the NEA's Kulman Ghising exchange MoUs in May 2022 in Lumbini to build the 409MW Arun 4. Photo: RATNA SHRESTHA/RSS</figcaption> </figure>  But even though Satluj is said to be also interested in the 1,061MW Upper Arun, Kulman Ghising of the Nepal Electricity Authority (NEA) says it is building the project. "Upper Arun is our first priority, we are planning to start the construction of the access road," Ghising told us. Arun and Tamor are both in eastern Nepal (see map), but India is also interested in rivers in western Nepal because of the proximity of its main load centres as well as to augment the dry season flow of Nepal’s rivers that flow into the Ganga.&nbsp; There was some hue and cry last year after the Deuba-led government abruptly handed over the 750MW West Seti Dam and Seti River-6 projects to two Indian state-owned companies without competition or transparency. Experts pointed out that Nepal’s Public-Private Partnership and Investment Act 2075 states that there should be competitive bidding.&nbsp; The Seti saga is three decades long. After successive partnerships with Australian, Chinese and private Indian companies fell through, India’s state-owned NHPC finally took the lead. Since the terms of the deal are opaque, many experts question how beneficial the $1.6 billion project that involves building a high dam in the Doti district will be for Nepal.&nbsp; Indian state-owned companies appear to move faster than private Indian companies interested in river projects in Nepal. The GMR Group (Gandhi Mallikarjun Rao) obtained a permit to build the 900 MW Upper Karnali and a Project Development Agreement (PDA) was signed with the IBN in 2014 with plans to start construction in two years after securing funding. The government's latest decision to extend the deadline for the GMR by two years is being challenged in Nepal’s Supreme Court.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2023050603054_0b5cc52ed5ece09ac54bf7fd42d663e156bd8a721203fecad4470d449722bfd9.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="2023050603054_0b5cc52ed5ece09ac54bf7fd42d663e156bd8a721203fecad4470d449722bfd9" data-rendition-name="original" width="1083" height="834" loading="lazy" alt="Indian investment in hydropower in Nepal"> </figure>  Geopolitical games The export-oriented 456MW Upper Tamakosi project finally started production in June 2021 after much delay. But because a part of the Upper Tamkosi was built by the Sino Hydro of China, India refused to buy power from the project during the monsoon surplus last year – even though it was built with NEA investment.&nbsp; One international lender told Nepali Times: “Obtaining an Indian nod before building any big hydropower project in Nepal has now become a must.” Indian pressure manifests itself in its refusal to buy only 364MW of electricity which was recently increased to 452MW. This is the sum total of generation capacity with no direct Chinese involvement. Nepal also cannot sell its power to China as there are no trans-Himalayan transmission lines, and exporting to Bangladesh would need an Indian approval system without giving a free and open market to Nepali electricity, while also rejecting any Chinese involvement. India’s international electricity trade procedure issued in February 2021 prohibits the import of electricity from projects invested in third countries that do not have a bilateral agreement for cooperation in the energy sector. The fact that India does not have an energy cooperation agreement with China has therefore become an excuse, not just to blacklist projects in Nepal with Chinese investment, but even Chinese contractors. India has even stopped the supply of explosives for projects like the Tanahu and Upper Trisuli-1 Schemes being built by Chinese contractors.&nbsp; "Even though there is nothing in writing, India does not want any involvement of the Chinese in any capacity in Nepal's hydropower projects, they even have details of which country is the contractor and where are the machines being used from," explains Ganesh Karki of the Independent Power Producers Association Nepal (IPPAN). India first allowed imports of electricity only from the 24 MW Trisuli and 15 MW Devighat projects, both built by the Indian in the 1960s. But after Deuba signed an agreement on energy cooperation between the two countries in 2022, NEA was allowed to 364MW.&nbsp; Even so, Nepal must renew this export provision every year, which is a bureaucratic hassle. What this essentially means is that if Indian companies do not get licenses for new plants in Nepal, they may not renew the power-selling contract either. Nepali officials have been trying to convince the Indian side that it is in their own best interest if Nepal has a surplus in the coming years. Based on projections of generation capacity, NEA has sent a proposal to New Delhi to export an additional 600MW.&nbsp; The installed capacity of hydropower projects in Nepal has reached 2,400MW and is expected to cross 3,000MW after the completion of more projects this monsoon. Projects with a combined capacity of 3,200MW are under construction and will be completed in the next three years. On the demand side, the average domestic consumption at present is about 1,600MW and is expected to increase only to 2,000MW next year.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2023050603054_1ba6d252b58558d3d1263b0f76e3abbfc1c9dd3c019f8d9d47bd8aa415651e3f.jpg" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="2023050603054_1ba6d252b58558d3d1263b0f76e3abbfc1c9dd3c019f8d9d47bd8aa415651e3f" data-rendition-name="original" width="1171" height="834" loading="lazy" alt="Hydropower generation in Nepal"> </figure>  &nbsp; <div class="embed-block"><div class="flourish-embed flourish-chart" data-src="visualisation/13536204"><script src="https://public.flourish.studio/resources/embed.js"></script></div></div> &nbsp; <div class="embed-block"><div class="flourish-embed flourish-chart" data-src="visualisation/13535503"><script src="https://public.flourish.studio/resources/embed.js"></script></div></div> There are critics who say Nepal should not be exporting power to India at all since it will not make a big dent in the trade deficit, and the $85.8 million it earned last year is negligible compared to the $8.33 billion Nepal earned in remittances.&nbsp; They say the priority should be on increasing electricity consumption in cooking, transportation and industry. At present, 70% of Nepal’s energy is from biomass and only 5% is from electricity.&nbsp; Since most of the electricity in Nepal is from run-of-river schemes in which generation depends on the flow of water in rivers, Nepal will have to continue to import power from India during the peak winter months for the next three years. In the monsoon, though, generation is double of demand, but the Indian quota, inadequate transmission and low domestic demand mean much of this clean electricity is wasted.&nbsp; Dinesh Kumar Ghimire at the Energy Ministry says Nepal is looking to sign a 25-year export agreement with India. "We are preparing a draft for the agreement. If both sides are on board with it, there may be an agreement during the Prime Minister's visit to India.” Edging out China While India is awarded one hydropower project after another in Nepal, China is being edged out. Both Phukot Karnali and Tamor hydropower projects were supposed to be implemented under Beijing’s Belt Road Initiative (BRI) scheme.&nbsp; Last month, Sichuan Wangping Energy Science and Technology gave up its license to build the 235MW Humla Karnali-1 and 335MW Humla Karnali-2 in partnership with a Nepali company. The survey permit for these projects has now been granted to Ruru Hydropower, a Nepali company. The 1,200MW Budi Gandaki reservoir project has been caught in a geopolitical tangle between India and Nepal for the past six years. In May 2017, the Pushpa Kamal Dahal government handed over the project to China’s Gezhouba Group without competition. A few months later in October, the Deuba-led government reversed the decision and said Nepal would build it. Fast forward a year later and the Oli-led government gave Budi Gandaki back to Gezhouba, only for the Deuba-led coalition government in March 2022 to reverse the decision again. Exasperated, the then-Chinese ambassador Hou Yanqi said abandoned diplomatic niceties and said publicly that it was wrong for Nepal to change its decision every time a government changed. Says Ganesh Karki of IPPAN: “We have to conclude that because of India’s stance, it is difficult to get Chinese investment in Nepal’s hydropower. The top political leadership should lobby with India to remove this obstacle.” The hydro of hydropower&nbsp; Nepal’s former energy secretary Dwarika Nath Dhungel is convinced India considers water a strategic commodity, and its emphasis on electricity export hides its real intention to secure water supply in the coming decades.&nbsp; “We in Nepal, on the other hand, have no idea about this, and there is no clarity about our own water and energy policy. In fact, our policymakers are not working in the national interest at all,” he adds. Studies have shown that water scarcity in the Indo-Gangetic plains will increase as Himalayan glaciers dry up, and the groundwater level falls due to over-extraction. And in the monsoon, there is too much water, so the world’s most densely populated region is hit by destructive floods. &nbsp; Building storage dams in Nepal is a win-win-win for India, reducing flood risk, augmenting dry season flow of Nepali rivers that flow across the border, and generating electricity. Nepal will get some export income, but will not benefit much from irrigation since it only has a narrow strip of land in the Tarai, and large tracts of its fertile mountain valleys will be inundated by future reservoirs. “Nepal’s export of a few thousand megawatts will not mean much for India's huge power system with a capacity of around 400,000MW,” adds Dhungel. “What India is fixated on is our water. And that is why it does not want any third parties involved, especially not China.” Former secretary at the Ministry of Energy Anup Kumar Upadhyay on the other hand is all for more Indian investment in Nepal’s hydropower, and does not think there is any ulterior motive. He argues that the model in which Nepal is allowing Indian companies to build projects is beneficial to Nepal in the long term. At present, Indian companies that have received permission to build hydropower plants have agreed to provide about 22% of electricity to the Nepal government for free. And after 25 years, these projects will be fully owned by Nepal. Says Upadhyay: "Whatever projects we are giving to India now, India does not even have the benefit of regular water flow from them, so there is no reason to be suspicious that India has a grand design to control our rivers." Indeed, there are many in Nepal, even those critical of Indian behaviour, who say Nepal cannot choose its neighbours and it might as well keep India happy by ensuring that the river agreements are fair to Nepal as well.

Geopolitics of Nepal’s rivers

Bottom

As a part of its effort to address safety concerns and to adhere to international norms, the Civil Aviation Authority of Nepal (CAAN) now requires domestic airlines operating planes with a maximum takeoff weight (TOW) above 20 tonnes to adopt the Flight Data Analysis Program (FDAP). Safety in aviation is determined by many factors such as technology, crew training, regulatory frameworks, monitoring of procedures, and management. This is especially important in Nepal, where flying is already challenging due to the rugged Himalayan terrain, extreme and unpredicatable weather and inadequate navaid at airports. The International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) defines safety as a state in which risk associated with aviation activities are maintained at or below acceptable level through continuous process of hazard identification and risk management. Safety therefore depends directly on proactive risk management before they cause a significant incident. And this is where Flight Data Analysis Program (FDAP) comes into play since it is a systematic process to monitor and analyse data from an aircraft's flight data recorder (FDR) and or Quick Access Recorder (QAR). This information can then be used to identify potential safety hazards, deviations and operating context to improve overall flight safety. ICAO mandates air operators with aircrafts that carry a maximum of 27 tonnes take-off weight to implement FDAP as a part of their Safety Management System (SMS).  <figure><img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230605110640_a69f4465b57004ee0220ea15c7538638e514377f2559c1a5ad45f6b3cad06d79.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="20230605110640_a69f4465b57004ee0220ea15c7538638e514377f2559c1a5ad45f6b3cad06d79" data-rendition-name="original" width="1562" height="505" loading="lazy" alt="Buddha Air"></figure>  Besides FDAP, Flight Data Monitoring (FDM) and Flight Operations Quality Assurance (FOQA) is a critical aspect of Flight Safety. Nepal’s biggest domestic airline, <a href="https://www.buddhaair.com/">Buddha Air</a>, with a fleet of 16 ATRs became the first domestic carrier to implement FDAP voluntarily in 2014 even though some of its aircraft at time were below the weight threshold. Its new ATR-72 have a maximum TOW of 22,000 tonnes. This allows the carrier to monitor and analyse flight data of every flight on a daily basis, allowing technical crew to identify potential safety hazards such as operational deviations or aircraft health, which would otherwise go unnoticed, and take corrective actions. <a href="https://www.buddhaair.com/safety">Buddha Air’s FDAP</a> is based on cutting edge technology designed by the French company Safran and is capable of capturing a vast amount of data and analysing it in real-time, allowing engineers at Buddha Air to identify potential safety hazards quickly. For ATRs the system records 108 parameters and 64 events for each daily flight from engine startup to engine shutdown. Safran’s FDAP is user-friendly, with an intuitive interface that allows the flight crew to easily access and analyze data and self-visualise their flights. Deviations observed along with confidential crew feedback are then analysed to enhance safety by tracking trends and identify areas of improvement with data-driven evidence. This also reduces training costs and providing pilots and other crew with feedback on their performance. FDAP also help identify fuel-saving opportunities, reduce maintenance costs, optimise routes, and optimise maintenance schedules to reduce downtime.

Nepal’s domestic carrier adopts FDAP to enhance safety

Before the Covid, China had become the number two source of foreign tourists in Nepal. Now, after a two year slump the Chinese are returning.&nbsp; After the opening of China’s borders this year and resumption of flights from Chengdu, Guangzhou and Hong Kong, arrivals have surged. Most of the mountaineers attempting to climb Mt Everest this season are from China because the north side of the mountain is still closed. Mandarin is once more heard in tourist hubs like Thamel and Pokhara, and Chinese trekkers are once more hitting Himalayan hiking trails. Although they are coming back, Chinese are still trailing behind Indian tourists. Tourist arrivals in Nepal are almost back to pre-Covid levels with 326,500 visitors between January-April this year, and tourists flying in from India made up 28% og them. This number does not include Indians who came overland on pilgrimage or sight-seeing. Nearly 200,000 Chinese tourists visited Nepal in 2018 after free visas were announced, making up 20% of the total visitors by nationality. Nepal Tourism Board (NTB) was expecting to double that figure in Visit Nepal Year in 2020, <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/when-will-chinese-tourists-return-to-nepal" target="_blank">when the pandemic struck.</a> In April this year, there were 3,000 Chinese tourists, and these numbers are expected to rise as flights pick up. Nepal’s largest domestic airline, <a href="http://www.buddhaair.com/" target="_blank">Buddha Air</a> has seen a rise in the number of Chinese passengers from Kathmandu to Pokhara, Bharatpur and Bhairawa. The airline says that it has also seen a rise in booking of Chinese tourists taking its daily four Mt Everest sightseeing flights.&nbsp; Pre-Covid, <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/business/Chinese-tourists-on-the-rise-in-nepal,2088" target="_blank">Pokhara was the most popular destination</a> in Nepal for Chinese tourists after the scenic town was the location for a popular Chinese tv series, Up In the Air that went viral on the Chinese micro-blogging site, Weibo. Chinese guidebooks described Pokhara as one of the top ten places ‘to see before you die’. Beijing has also declared Nepal as an ‘official destination’ for its nationals. Then Chinese Ambassador Hou Yanqi <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/chinese-tourist-influx-to-nepal-in-2020/" target="_blank">posted pictures of herself</a> on social media on New Year’s eve 31 December 2019 to promote Nepal among outbound tourists from China. Nepal Tourism Board (NTB) recruited famous actress Xu Qing (see photo below) to be its Goodwill Ambassador to promote Visit Nepal Year in China.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230522110512_db76082c85903fffb895c9fbdb74250910bce6b5ec355c7cdb5d35df4b9cf72c.png" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="20230522110512_db76082c85903fffb895c9fbdb74250910bce6b5ec355c7cdb5d35df4b9cf72c" data-rendition-name="original" width="1980" height="1316" loading="lazy" alt="Chinese tourists in Nepal"> <figcaption>Famous Chinese actress Xu Qingpromoting Visit Nepal Year 2020.</figcaption> </figure>  Chinese tourists are mostly attracted by the culture and the mountains in Nepal, but they also come for wildlife viewing, adventure and pilgrimage to Lumbini. Chinese tourists are the most avid shoppers for Nepali bronze and wood carving handicrafts. The birthplace of Lord Buddha in Lumbini was first chronicled by Chinese monk pilgrims <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faxian" target="_blank">Faxian</a> and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xuanzang" target="_blank">Xuanzang</a> who visited Lumbini and Tilaurakot in the 4th and 7th century CE, and described the ruins of the towns in detail. Modern day Chinese are following in their footsteps. &nbsp; Tourism entrepreneurs in Thamel say that Nepal could do much more to encourage Chinese tourists if there were more cheaper flights, if the border checkpoints wereopened, and if there was more promotional activity in China. According to Lumbini Development Trust, Chinese tourists are the fourth largest number of visitors among foreigners in the Lumbini area. The establishment of the Gautam Buddha International airport in Bhairawa and the new Pokhara airport could serve to increase Chinese arrivals if there were direct flights from Chinese cities. Chinese tourists when in Nepal also visit Thamel’s ‘Little China’ area where there are many Chinese owned shops and restaurants. With the popularity of WeChat among the Chinese, many shops in Thamel and Patan have also adopted this payment app.&nbsp; Buddha Air, for example, is already using WeChat for flight bookings and tour packages specifically targeting Chinese tourists.&nbsp;

Chinese tourists return to Nepal

Buddha Air, Nepal’s largest domestic airline, is getting even larger with the addition of its 15th ATR-72-500 this week. Later this year, it is acquiring two more of the 72-seater aircraft and will add frequency to the Dhangadi, Surkhet and Tumlingtar routes, as well as intercity flights from its Pokhara hub. This year, Buddha sold its two remaining Raytheon Beech 1900Ds to a Canadian operator.

Buddha’s 15th ATR

Opportunity dances with those who are already on the dance floor. - H. Jackson Brown Jr  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230602090644_54bb8c4943210cdb8565f3408b8b4400514729440f8ed81954296b6c3057c871.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="20230602090644_54bb8c4943210cdb8565f3408b8b4400514729440f8ed81954296b6c3057c871" data-rendition-name="original" width="2677" height="2682" loading="lazy" alt="Opportunity"> </figure>

Opportunity

The health of Nepalis is being <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/things-are-up-in-the-air-in-nepal">seriously affected</a> by air pollution, contaminated water, plastic garbage and the impact of the climate crisis on weather, water supply and agriculture.&nbsp;
These are a result of neglect by the state, which means we have it in our power to remedy them. All it needs is political will.&nbsp;
The new budget presented to Parliament on Monday, however, was one step forward two steps back. It decreased the tax on electric SUVs, and increased it for battery-powered public utility vans and smaller e-cars -- which goes against the government's stated decarbonisation targets.
The budget reiterated the commitment to promote paper and cloth bags and replace plastic. That is timely because <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/refuse-recycle-reuse-repurpose-plastic">#BeatPlasticPollution</a> is also the theme of World Environment Day on 5 June.
Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/things-are-up-in-the-air-in-nepal">Things are up in the air</a>, Sonia Awale
This is not the first time a government has banned plastic bags. In 2011, it announced a complete ban on the production, import, sale, distribution, and use of plastic bags thinner than 20 microns. But political lobbying by plastic pellet importers was too strong to enforce it.
So, the government later made a symbolic gesture of prohibiting plastic bags within Singha Darbar. That could not even be implemented within the central government secretariat in Kathmandu.&nbsp;
Since plastics are so convenient to use, an immediate and outright ban will not work. But there is nothing stopping us from recycling, reducing and removing them.&nbsp;
Kathmandu Mayor Balendra Shah's electoral platform included solving the capital’s garbage problem by making citizens segregate trash at source. More than a year later, there has been no move to sort trash.
Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/refuse-recycle-reuse-repurpose-plastic">Refuse, recycle, reuse, repurpose plastic</a>, Aria Shree Parasai&nbsp;
Seventy percent of Kathmandu’s waste is biodegradable, and can be turned into compost. The rest is mostly plastic, paper, metal and glass which are already collected by informal waste workers for recycling.
Also on World Environment Day, let us commit to protecting the Chure Hills where indiscriminate mining and quarrying by corrupt contractors will inundate the Tarai and the plains of Bihar.
Extracting sand from the beds of seasonal Chure rivers have worsened floods downstream, lowered the water table, affecting farms and livelihoods in the Tarai and in Bihar.&nbsp;
Read more: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/importance-of-ecosystems-for-people-and-the-planet">Importance of ecosystems for people and the planet</a>
How ironic that the Finance Minister’s budget allocated Rs1.05 billion for the President Chure Conservation Project when the coalition government is planning to allow contractors to mine boulders and sand.
Nepal is now all set to have year-round electricty surplus with an estimated 4,500MW of peak power generation by 2024. But we are not allowed to export more than 420MW to India, which is just as well because Nepal should actually be using renewable energy to reduce fossil fuel imports for transport, industry and household cooking.&nbsp;
But Nepal is going in the opposite direction to increase fossil fuel imports by signing off on the construction of two additional Indian petroleum pipeline projects during Prime Minister Dahal's visit to India this week.&nbsp;
Reducing diesel, petrol and LPG import is a win-win-win because it would not just cut the trade deficit, but improve public health, and use surplus power that would go waste.&nbsp;
Successive governments have tried to enforce green stickers for vehicles that pass emission tests. But these stickers can be bought off the counter. How come the anti-drink and drive campaign with breathalyzer tests has succeeded and reduced road accidents by 80%, while testing the exhaust pipes of vehicles has failed so miserably?
And let's not blame everything on <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/importance-of-ecosystems-for-people-and-the-planet">climate change</a>. Increasing global average temperature is not responsible for the garbage problem. Chure exploitation is pure greed, and corruption in high places. Increasing the tax on public electric transport is stupidity.
We know about Nepal’s environment crises, we know the solutions, we need the will to implement them. Accountable government, a clear strategy on interventions and a functioning democracy gives us the power to deliver solutions.
Sonia Awale

Political environment

Nepalis breathe some of the dirtiest air in the world. Last week, the Air Quality Index (AQI) in Kathmandu hit 400 due to smoke, emissions and imported pollution. Even the HEPA filter lungs put up by the Ministry of Health started going dark in five days. When air quality plummets, there are immediate side effects. Even healthy individuals get irritation in the nose and throat, tearing of the eyes, skin rashes and coughs.
More videos: https://www.youtube.com/@NepaliTimesVideo

Bad air gets worse

She wakes up before dawn, throws away the blanket and heads quickly down to the cowshed, and promptly starts preparing the feed for her four cows.&nbsp; Already by 5AM the cows have been milked, the shed is cleaned, and the dung removed to the compost pit. Then by 7AM the milk is delivered to a collection centre 3km away. This has been Durga Karki’s morning routine for the past 13 years. In the afternoons, she tends to her leased vegetable patch where tomatoes, cabbage, cauliflower and radish are growing.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230402070424_0ba2834ee5238c876d92db3fbc7ecea2d0936502deda8635e724ad93ce8ec86c.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="20230402070424_0ba2834ee5238c876d92db3fbc7ecea2d0936502deda8635e724ad93ce8ec86c" data-rendition-name="original" width="6436" height="4291" loading="lazy" alt="farmers in Nepal"> </figure>  “If I do not work, my family has nothing to eat,” says Karki, 59, who lives in Bharatpur of Chitwan. “I have to feed my children, send them to school and buy them new clothes.” Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/multimedia/down-on-bishnus-farm">Down on Bishnu's farm</a>, Sahina Shrestha Karki took up farming after her alcoholic husband, who regularly beat her, disappeared for good one day. “I didn’t waste my time worrying over him, and put my efforts into raising my children all on my own,” she says.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230402070432_82d4143df61a80a179547869091c0dde04c275b804cab1b9eb5a64c92085e613.jpg" data-media-id="editor_2" data-image-id="20230402070432_82d4143df61a80a179547869091c0dde04c275b804cab1b9eb5a64c92085e613" data-rendition-name="original" width="6670" height="4447" loading="lazy" alt="nepali farmer"> <figcaption>CASHLESS CROP: Durga Karki spends over 12 hours a day tending to her cows and vegetable farm, but doesn't have enough funds to afford a gallbladder operation. She raised all her children on her own after her husband abandoned the family.All photos: SUMAN NEPALI</figcaption> </figure>  Of her five children, her oldest daughter is already married and another is studying journalism. The two younger daughters are in high school, and her youngest son is in Grade 5. Altogether, their tuition fees total Rs15,000 a month, and another Rs10,00 is spent on books, uniforms and school lunches. Then there is another Rs10,000 a month in household expenses. “There is so much expense but my only cash income is from milk. Vegetable farming has left me in debt,” explains Karki, who makes Rs50,000 a month selling milk. Even then, she spends Rs15,000 on cow feed and care, so there is not much savings. Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/editorial/back-to-the-future-of-farming">Back to the future of farming</a>, Anil Chitrakar Durga took up vegetable farming hoping it would augment their income but she has been struggling. Most recently, she took a loan of Rs100,000 to plant cauliflowers in the plot, she made only Rs70,000. “I don’t think it is because I cannot farm or I’m down on my luck, vegetable farming just does not have the margins,” says Durga, who cites the low price of her produce in the market.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230402070432_c2833e92decfd40d30c679371d0c27443657b3a5b0b4cdb9105498a9c3dde75c.jpg" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="20230402070432_c2833e92decfd40d30c679371d0c27443657b3a5b0b4cdb9105498a9c3dde75c" data-rendition-name="original" width="6436" height="4291" loading="lazy" alt="nepali farmer"> </figure>  Farmers in Chitwan are agitating against the low prices middlemen pay by dumping tomatoes, cabbages and other vegetables along the East-west Highway. Karki’s neighbour Narahari Prasad Kandel agrees: "If you don't sell them in time, they will spoil. When you do sell them, you don’t get a price that is worth the produce.” Kandel repeats the reason for the price drop: cheaper vegetable imports from India where farmers get subsidies for everything from seeds, fertilisers to diesel for irrigation pumps. In Nepal, the opposite is true. Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/biodynamic-agripreneurs">Biodynamic agripreneurs</a>, Sanjib Chaudhary Back in the Karki household, the daughters help with the farm. She herself tends to her vegetable patch from 10AM to 7PM every day. And while they are struggling, the farm has also kept them together as a family. As a matriarch, Karki had tried to keep her hopes up that things would change. But lately, she has been plagued by doubts. She wonders if others in different professions also live their life as miserably, if they too cannot pay their debts, afford schooling and healthcare even after working over 12 hours a day.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230402070432_8da6a6d2c89f0103e3a795b6f5d38ffed6ab057a1b98cee0c48b0a540e8f4e43.jpg" data-media-id="editor_6" data-image-id="20230402070432_8da6a6d2c89f0103e3a795b6f5d38ffed6ab057a1b98cee0c48b0a540e8f4e43" data-rendition-name="original" width="6670" height="4447" loading="lazy" alt="nepali farmer"> </figure>  Now, she needs a gallbladder operation which she cannot afford, and her doubts about farming are deeper. She cannot lift heavy objects and physicians have told her to rest, but she cannot afford to do that either. “I’m sick because of all these years on the farm and yet I couldn’t even earn enough to treat my condition,” laments Karki, pouring out her anxiety to a visiting reporter. “I have told my children they shouldn’t become farmers.” Karki did reach out to a local agricultural extension centre which provided her with higher yield vegetable seeds, and new cultivation methods. This helped her yield but, once again, the market price was much lower than the investment. Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/pigs-fly-and-fish-climb-trees">Pigs fly and fish climb trees</a>, Sahina Shrestha “We farmers just want our products to be sold and at a price that provides us with a living,” says Karki, who was given the run around by local government officials. Farmers in Chitwan have been agitating by staging street protests for fertilisers, irrigation and proper prices. Says agricultural expert Krishna Poudel: “We have been relying on Singha Darbar to act so far, but now there is no choice but for the local government to step in to solve the problems of their farmers once and for all.”&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230402070432_a1d85eddef7a12fa81fd20fe32f0333f5ab476918103d437dab89c89fbdc0a1c.jpg" data-media-id="editor_8" data-image-id="20230402070432_a1d85eddef7a12fa81fd20fe32f0333f5ab476918103d437dab89c89fbdc0a1c" data-rendition-name="original" width="6493" height="4329" loading="lazy" alt="nepali farmer"> </figure>

“My children shouldn't be farmers”

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While Dutch conservationist and architect Anne Feenstra was giving a presentation ten years ago at a World Wildlife Fund (WWF) event in Kathmandu, Ang Phuri Sherpa was fascinated. This was a whole new way to design modern buildings in Nepal’s mountains that respected heritage, conformed to the climate, and conserved energy using locally available raw material.&nbsp; Sherpa was working for WWF at the time, but when he became Country Director for the Red Panda Network (RPN) he remembered the presentation from all those years ago, and approached Feenstra’s Sustainable Mountain Architecture (SMA) to help design a new resource centre in Taplejung. RPN has been working in Kangchenjunga Conservation Area in eastern Nepal to protect the endangered red panda, and its researcher <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/nepal-conservationist-wins-whitley-award">Sonam Tashi Lama</a> in 2022 won the Whitley Award for his work. Feenstra and his Nepali colleague Sapana Shakya at SMA designed the Rs20 million two-storied building at Deurali near Taplejung airport which serves to provide information about the red panda and the need to protect its habitat.&nbsp; The tastefully designed and functional multi-purpose resource centre is also supposed to pay for its own upkeep by offering accommodation and dining to trekkers, researchers, students and other visitors.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230310110348_da88f94ba8af650b6f87708ba62bc24a18ea146b8759ec29e80d400e97b2be03.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="20230310110348_da88f94ba8af650b6f87708ba62bc24a18ea146b8759ec29e80d400e97b2be03" data-rendition-name="original" width="2204" height="1257" loading="lazy" alt="Red Panda House"> <figcaption>The Red Panda Research Centre is located on a ridge top near Taplejung. All photos: SUSTAINABLE MOUNTAIN ARCHITECTURE</figcaption> </figure>  Since it is located on the route to Pathibhara, it could also be a comfortable stopover for pilgrims. And all guests will also automatically learn about the need to preserve the red panda habitat Known as हाब्रे in Nepali, <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/red-panda-on-the-red-list">the red panda is critically endangered</a> and lives on the canopy of broadleaf in mixed temperate forests from western Nepal to Sichuan. The mammal is not related to the giant panda, and is not a bear but is closer to racoons and squirrels. There are now less than 10,000 wild red pandas, with 800 in zoos around the world. In Nepal, there are about 1,000 of the animals living in bamboo and rhododendron forests in 24 of the country’s mountain districts, mostly in eastern Nepal. But their population is in decline because of poaching and habitat destruction. Despite not having any medicinal, cultural, or religious value, <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/republic-of-nepal-s-animal-kingdom">red pandas</a> are being poached for their pelt.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230310110352_59ba2f0eaddb108b8897728eb29fee6f2d538b1cb009698f6f6ed921e9e495b1.jpg" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="20230310110352_59ba2f0eaddb108b8897728eb29fee6f2d538b1cb009698f6f6ed921e9e495b1" data-rendition-name="original" width="774" height="744" loading="lazy" alt="Red Panda distribution and habitat"> <figcaption>The Red Panda range spans Nepal to Sichuan in China. There are about 1,000 of the rare mammals remaining in Nepal's forests, mainly in the east.</figcaption> </figure>   <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230310110348_d5d82659a79df8c8e52600433492b352505d9026d161428e9ef53c8e8e1eba3c.jpg" data-media-id="editor_5" data-image-id="20230310110348_d5d82659a79df8c8e52600433492b352505d9026d161428e9ef53c8e8e1eba3c" data-rendition-name="original" width="3000" height="2000" loading="lazy" alt="Red Panda in Nepal"> <figcaption>Photo: JAMES HOUSTON/RED PANDA NETWORK</figcaption> </figure>  Anne Feenstra has designed more than 50 similar sustainable buildings in mountain regions across the world in the past three decades, including a structure in an Afghan national park that is home to snow leopards. “As a student of architecture, I have always been a proponent of climate-friendly construction,” explains Feenstra. “When rainfall, the sun, and other topographical and environmental elements are not taken into account, a building will not be sustainable.”&nbsp; Indeed, Feenstra explains, every mountain region is different, and requires a specific <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/foundations-for-sustainable-buildings-in-nepal">building approach</a> from the type of roof, windows and height of the ceiling based on local climate and available local materials. The Red Panda Centre in Taplejung sits on a forested ridge 2,600m in Deurali near Taplejung. The wood-and-stone structure is conceptually modelled on a mountain lodge, is built to withstand heavy winter snowfall, and is earthquake resistant. The floor is made of local stone, while the second floor is timber. The roof is up-cycled tin coated in tar. Feenstra and Shakya studied indigenous building materials and construction techniques which are disappearing because of cement and concrete.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230310110344_58e29764a142eacdb722dfa79377a49bafefcc2c1d47403f34cda70e3cee2486.jpg" data-media-id="editor_7" data-image-id="20230310110344_58e29764a142eacdb722dfa79377a49bafefcc2c1d47403f34cda70e3cee2486" data-rendition-name="original" width="1776" height="1000" loading="lazy" alt="Red Panda House"> <figcaption>Architectural renditions of the interior of the structure which has been designed with local materials and to also serve as a visitor centre and a lodge to generate income. Photos: SUSTAINABLE MOUNTAIN ARCHITECTURE</figcaption> </figure>  &nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230310110344_451328764ac8314a2517a5cd43139c94ca6df4b47b6889d6954d69d59fa546d6.jpg" data-media-id="editor_8" data-image-id="20230310110344_451328764ac8314a2517a5cd43139c94ca6df4b47b6889d6954d69d59fa546d6" data-rendition-name="original" width="1776" height="1000" loading="lazy" alt="Red Panda House"> </figure>   <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230310110344_1ed7be0772d331be7a4286563f49ac5098109060391e86b86afd4bcef711f826.jpg" data-media-id="editor_9" data-image-id="20230310110344_1ed7be0772d331be7a4286563f49ac5098109060391e86b86afd4bcef711f826" data-rendition-name="original" width="1776" height="1000" loading="lazy" alt="Red Panda House"> </figure>  “When we use indigenous resources, we must always pay the utmost attention to native skills and materials,” says Shakya, who helped design new school buildings in Makwanpur and other districts after the 2015 earthquake.&nbsp; “It is the combination of local skill and resources that makes any building stronger,” she says. For Ang Phuri Sherpa of <a href="https://redpandanetwork.org/">Red Panda Network</a>, the building is exactly what he had hoped for. He says the use of cement for construction would have been costlier and less climate friendly. “The reduction of our carbon footprint and the use of local skill and resources were our primary objectives in the construction of this resource centre,” says Sherpa. The research centre also serves as a place where knowledge about water harvesting, smokeless fuel-efficient use of firewood, and other techniques will be shared with local people who are suffering a scarcity of water in the dry season. As the number of trekkers to the Kanchenjunga region grows, villagers will also be given practical knowledge about running homesteads and <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/eco-tourism-in-gadi-siraichuli">promoting ecotourism</a>.&nbsp;

The Red Panda House

<div class="embed-block"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20230112100128/63bfd3649c7e80680e0d305bjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="960" height="640">CONJUGAL SCIENTISTS: Elizabeth and Alton Byers below Mt Kangchenjunga in October 2022 following six months of glacier hazards and alpine flora research.</div>
When American mountain geographer Alton Byers was investigating a devastating flash flood that blocked the Arun River in 2017, he trekked up the Barun Valley to find a vast area covered in thick white dust.
He was convinced this was no monsoon flood, or even a glacial lake that had burst. The white dust was a clue.
Sure enough, a local yak herdsman told him that a mountainside had come down causing the dust cloud. Comparing earlier photographs, Byers discovered that an entire side of Mt Saldim had broken off, fallen on a glacial lake and sent a massive debris flow down to the river’s confluence with the Arun.
Last year, Byers was investigating a historical flood from the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/tracing-past-glacial-floods-in-kangchenjunga/" target="_blank">Nangama glacial lake</a> below Kangchenjunga, when local elders told him about eight other floods in the 1960s in the area.
For Byers, who is a <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/tracing-past-glacial-floods-in-kangchenjunga/" target="_blank">frequent contributor to this newspaper</a>, these two examples and many others in Nepal proved the benefit of including local people in the research process.
“A lot of glaciologists still do not include local knowledge, and that is unfortunate,” Byers says. “What we try to do is talk to local communities as an interdisciplinary approach to <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/nepals-mountains-are-melting/" target="_blank">studying climate change</a>.”
Byers and his wife, the botanist Elizabeth Byers, spent most of the past two years in the Kangchenjunga Conservation Area in eastern Nepal, tapping local knowledge about how the ecosystem is coping with the climate crisis and a post-Covid increase in trekking.
“The older generation has a phenomenal knowledge about the ecosystem, and this is being lost as the younger generation moves to the cities,” Byers says.
This is happening across Nepal, and the couple observed this in Kangchenjunga as well. The population of yaks, for example, had gone down because younger people were no longer interested in rearing them, and also because of the demand for yak meat across the border in China.
<div class="embed-block"><div><div style="left: 0; width: 100%; height: 0; position: relative; padding-bottom: 56.25%;"><iframe src="//cdn.iframe.ly/api/iframe?url=https%3A%2F%2Fyoutu.be%2FbGHRvq62zNA&key=87ca3314a9fa775b5c3a7726100694b0" style="top: 0; left: 0; width: 100%; height: 100%; position: absolute; border: 0;" allowfullscreen scrolling="no" allow="accelerometer *; clipboard-write *; encrypted-media *; gyroscope *; picture-in-picture *; web-share *;"></iframe></div></div></div>
 
Elizabeth Byers has spent the last seven years developing a <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/wildflower-app-celebrates-nepals-flora/" target="_blank">wild flower identification app</a> with 600 species of Himalayan flowers and 2,400 photographs that can be downloaded for free.
With Nepali scientists Til Kumari Thapa and Richa Chhetri, she is finishing a new book about the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/tracing-past-glacial-floods-in-kangchenjunga/" target="_blank">wildflowers of the Kanchenjunga region </a>that have four new hitherto unclassified species even though the region was first explored in 1844 by British botanists.
“If we could find four new species in a part of Nepal that has been studied for over 170 years, imagine what there must be in the rest of Nepal,” says Elizabeth Byers.
She says delicate alpine plants, like Nepal’s 12 species of insect-eating Bladderworts, are especially vulnerable to climate change due to extreme weather and invasive species moving up the mountains. Uncontrolled tourism could add to the threat to Himalayan biodiversity.
“On a global scale, it is hard to imagine a place more important than Nepal in terms of biodiversity,” she adds. “Climate change is happening too fast for the plants to adapt and we could lose plants with unknown medicinal value for the future.”
Alton and Elizabeth Byers spent this monsoon in Kangchenjunga looking at how the climate crisis and tourism could change the ecosystem of the region below the world’s third highest mountain.
Ten years ago, Alton Byers was involved in an <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/living-below-nepals-melting-mountains/" target="_blank">exchange of scientists from Peru and Nepal</a>. Experts from Nepal were taken to the Andes to see how Peruvian scientists had drained expanding glacial lakes after big losses of life when they burst.
Peruvian experts later advised the Nepal government in a project to drain Imja glacial lake in the Khumbu to lower its water level and reduce the danger of it bursting.
Byers says he has been surprised by how much the Himalayan peoples in Nepal know about the weather extremes they have &nbsp;witnessed lately.
“They have a remarkable understanding of why it is happening and they know they are absolutely not to blame,” says Byers, who was also encouraged to see that communities are <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/nepals-mountains-are-melting/" target="_blank">adapting to glacial lake floods</a> by <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/living-below-nepals-melting-mountains/" target="_blank">building embankments</a>, higher bridges and moving settlements away from river banks.
That knowledge and adaptation now needs to be scaled up to the national level so that large infrastructure projects take into account the risk of destructive climate-induced debris flows, like the one that hit Melamchi in June 2021.
“Glacial lakes are a clear danger. The Arun for example has three big dam projects, and upstream is the massive Lower Barun glacial lake that is calving every year and soon will be right under the Barun Icefall,” Byers warns.
He suggests that Nepal’s hydropower industry should start incorporating the threat of <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/danger-nepals-glacial-lakes-are-filling-up/" target="_blank">glacial lakes upstream in Nepal </a>and China with <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/editorial/more-himalayan-tsunamis/" target="_blank">early warning systems</a>.
Adds Alton Byers: “We think the mountains are invincible but these are the most fragile ecosystems on the planet.”

Including local knowledge to study climate change

<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20230112100128/63bfd3509c7e80680e0d3055jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="1041"/><figcaption>CALVING OFF: In the past 30 years, the Imja Glacier in the Khumbu has grown into a lake 2km long as the permafrost and ice melts. Photo: KIRIL RUSEV</figcaption></figure>The Himalaya is the largest storehouse of water as ice after the polar regions, which is why it is called the Third Pole. The world’s highest mountain range is also referred to as the Water Tower of Asia, but the roof of the world is running out of water.Sky rivers bring moisture from the ocean and precipitate it as rain or snow on the mountains. Much of it seeps into the ground with the mountains acting like gigantic sponges. The rest is stored as ice and melts slowly in summer when glaciers bring them down.But climate change is <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/climate-change-is-a-disaster-in-the-nepal-himalaya/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">heating up the Himalaya</a> faster than the global average, disrupting this water cycle. The rains are becoming more erratic, either coming in torrents or not at all, groundwater is depleting, and glaciers have shrunk.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20230112100128/63bfd3549c7e80680e0d3056jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="109">Rivers originating in the Himalaya and the Tibetan Plateau that sustain the inhabitants of the mountains as well as 1 billion Asians downstream will have less water in the dry season in the coming decades.If greenhouse gas emissions are not reduced, scientists predict that two-thirds of Himalayan glaciers will be gone during this century. Already, there is a river running through Everest Base Camp, and runnels in the Khumbu Icefall may turn it into a waterfall in the not-too-distant future.Khim Lal Gautam, who was part of the team that measured the height of Mt Everest to greater accuracy in 2020, has climbed the world’s highest mountain twice and has noticed the changes.“The moraine and permafrost here at the Everest Base Camp is melting dangerously. The glacier is collapsing, every time I come here there is less and less ice,” says Gautam.He adds: “The accelerated melting means there is now this big river running through Base Camp. In the last six years, the average temperature here has increased by six degrees.”Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/it-is-getting-hotter-on-the-roof-of-the-world/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">It is getting hotter on the roof of the world</a>, Kunda Dixit<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20230112100128/63bfd3569c7e80680e0d3057jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="3000" height="671"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>Across the Himalaya, iconic peaks like Mt Machapuchre have turned into bare rock during some seasons. Between October 2008 to October 2020, Mt Saipal at 7,031m in far west Nepal lost most of its ice, shocking mountaineers, scientists and locals alike.In 2006, the serac below the summit of Ama Dablam that gave the mountain its name broke off killing six climbers. “Ama Dablam means mother’s necklace, and a chunk of this big block of ice collapsed and thundered down,” says environmentalist and entrepreneur Dawa Steven Sherpa. “We are not just losing our mountains but a large part of our identity and what they mean to us.”Researchers have made similar observations in the Karakoram in Pakistan, in the Tibetan Plateau, Bhutan and India where the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/nepals-mountains-are-melting/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">permafrost is melting and glaciers receding</a>.“In the past, glaciers in the Karakoram were more stable than elsewhere in the Himalaya … but now even these glaciers have started melting,” says Pakistani remote sensing specialist Sher Muhammad, who is with the Kathmandu-based International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development (ICIMOD).Accelerated melting has also meant that the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/danger-nepals-glacial-lakes-are-filling-up/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">number of glacial lakes is increasing</a>. Nepal’s longest glacier, Ngozumpa below Mt Cho Oyu, now resembles Swiss cheese, riddled with melt pools and debris. Imja Glacier has turned into a glacial lake in just 30 years.“Imja didn’t used to be a lake, it used to be a solid glacier,” adds Dawa Sherpa. “My father camped on the glacier 60 years ago with a Japanese expedition. Today, we need a rubber boat to be where he was back then.”There are 3,252 glacial lakes in Nepal, and they are shrinking three times faster than in 1998. Many of these are filling up with melt water and are in danger of bursting. <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/tracing-past-glacial-floods-in-kangchenjunga/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Glacial Lake Outburst Floods (GLOFs)</a> are a threat not just to human settlements but to infrastructure projects, many of them hydropower plants which are built along rivers downstream.The massive debris flow on the Melamchi River in June 2021 that killed at least 30 people, submerged settlements, and nearly destroyed Nepal’s biggest infrastructure project to supply water to Kathmandu, was caused by a heavy monsoon downpour bringing down glacial sediments no longer cemented by permafrost.While melting mountains are more visible, many more people are affected across the Himalaya by springs going dry and reduced flow on rivers. People are <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/nepal-must-prepare-for-climate-migration/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">abandoning villages and homesteads</a> because of prolonged droughts and dry springs.Women left behind are having to <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/editorial/women-and-water/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">shoulder the burden</a> of household chores including fetching water from further away, even as there is less water to irrigate terrace farms. In parts of Nepal, this has led to an increase in child marriage and the school dropout rate for girls, undermining the country’s past gains.Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/global-heating-melts-mountains/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Forests replace glaciers in the Himalaya</a>, Tufan Neupane<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20230112100128/63bfd35a9c7e80680e0d3058jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="4288" height="2848"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>The theme of this year's International Mountain Day on 11 December is 'Women Move Mountains'. Climate change in the mountains is not just a crisis but also an opportunity to empower women and local communities.From rainwater harvesting, reviving ponds, and drip irrigation to planting sugarcane and Napier grass on riverbanks to reduce flood risks, there are many successful examples in Nepal of local adaptation.But much like air pollution, tackling the impact of climate change in the Himalaya needs a cross-border and regional collaboration. In fact, worsening regional air pollution is leading to <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/a-terrifying-assessment-of-himalayan-melting/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">an acceleration in melting</a>.Black carbon and soot particles from vehicular emission, industries and fires are reaching higher altitudes and increasing the melt rate of glaciers already thawing due to global warming.Says <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/we-have-not-respected-the-fragility-of-the-himalaya/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">ICIMOD Director General Pema Gyamtsho</a> from Bhutan: “We need to put more focus on building transboundary cooperation. That has always been our mandate, but I think now, we need to fast forward these initiatives.”The Himalaya has more biodiversity than any other place on earth because of its elevation and moisture range. Researchers say this makes it an extraordinary place for species to flourish. But climate change is impacting on this diversity of plant and animal life that have evolved in the sensitive mountain ecosystem. Many have never been studied and could have immense medicinal and utilitarian value.The recently concluded <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/make-or-break-climate-summits/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">COP27 Climate Summit in Egypt</a> agreed on a mechanism to compensate poorer countries for loss and damage from climate change, but fell short of required decarbonisation targets. There is now serious doubt if global average temperature can be limited to 1.5C above pre-industrial levels.Scientists and governments are meeting in Montréal this week to find ways to avert what they call the 'sixth extinction' -- the largest loss of biodiversity in the planet since the meteorite strike that wiped out the dinosaurs 65 million years ago. Some of this is due to the climate crisis, but human settlements and consumption is also destroying habitats. Just as at COP27 in Egypt, the UN Biodiversity Conference (COP15) in Montréal will also set targets for the global biodiversity framework.Himalayan geographer Alton C Byers who has been studying the impact of climate change on the ecosystem of the Kangchenjunga region warns: “People think mountains are invulnerable, invincible. They are not, they are some of the most fragile ecosystems in the world which is why we need to give them special consideration and protection.”Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/mountain-women-on-the-climate-frontlines/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mountain women on the climate frontlines</a>, Torun Dramdal and Pema Gyamtsho

The climate crisis is a water crisis in the Himalaya

Frontpage topic

In 2020, the city of Mumbai joined the C40 Cities Network, a collective of 97 cities around the world taking climate action at the sub-national level. Subsequently, the city launched the Mumbai Climate Action Plan in 2022, becoming India’s first climate action plan to set net-zero targets for 2050. Conversation on international climate policy is often dominated by federal policies and international negotiations with representations most often from national governments. Yet, cities play a critical role to reach the Paris Agreement targets.&nbsp; More than half of the world's population, or around 4.4 billion inhabitants, currently live in cities, and this trend is only expected to continue moving forward. By 2050, cities will be home to more than 70% of the world´s population and the majority of its industry. Although cities make up only 2% of our world, they consume the majority of global energy and produce <a href="https://unfccc.int/blog/seven-ways-cities-can-take-climate-action#:~:text=Cities%20only%20cover%202%25%20of,the%20way%20our%20cities%20function.">approximately 60% of global greenhouse gas emissions</a>, primarily through the transport and building sectors. Increasing urbanisation strains infrastructure and services, and eventually impacts sustainability and people´s livelihood. With most of the absolute growth in population taking place in Asia, urban low-lying coastal areas are particularly vulnerable to the effects of climate change. Rising temperatures, sea level rise, and extreme weather events like floods or droughts disrupt the complex infrastructures of cities. High levels of air pollution and waste management burden the livelihood of millions of urban dwellers and exacerbate their existing vulnerability to climate impacts.&nbsp; Cities are where most people live and work, where they host businesses and industries and have the best ground-level understanding of the need to balance development and urbanisation hand in hand with tackling climate change. This means cities can also be and need to be, a part of the solution. With cities being policy laboratories and incubators for climate actions, it is vital to change the way cities function while nurturing the narrative that cities can take the initiative to tackle climate change. The decisions cities take to combat climate change today will shape the future.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230606060640_443a8816857ea122311cdd4d77d91227aa7a6a72982b3b2ce846b099fd4ada6b.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="20230606060640_443a8816857ea122311cdd4d77d91227aa7a6a72982b3b2ce846b099fd4ada6b" data-rendition-name="original" width="513" height="389" loading="lazy" alt="Climate action in cities"> <figcaption>Sizing Up the Carbon Footprint of Cities (Source: NASA)</figcaption> </figure>  Kruti Munot, Project Manager at GIZ in Brussels who works with city governments on climate action says, “Cities play a key role in tackling climate change, and there is a continuous need to integrate climate into city planning, scale climate finance for urban infrastructure, and build capacities for local-level leadership to meet the Paris Agreement targets.”&nbsp; While the conversation around city-level action on climate change may not yet be mainstreamed, it is happening with efforts undergoing at various levels. According to the Global Covenant of Mayors, there are more than 12,700 cities <a href="https://www.globalcovenantofmayors.org/our-cities/">committed to reducing emissions</a> by 2050, and both the G7 and G20 now have specific high-level meetings on urban topics.&nbsp; The Mumbai climate action plan, for example, envisions a climate-resilient Mumbai by 2050 with a focus on mitigation and adaptation strategies in sustainable waste management, urban greening and biodiversity, urban flooding and water resource management, energy and buildings, air quality, and sustainable mobility.&nbsp; Mumbai is one of eight South Asian cities that are part of C40 Cities, <a href="https://www.c40.org">a global collaboration platform</a> of about 100 mayors from the world´s leading cities, committed collectively to city-level climate actions. Mayors of C40 Cities use a collaborative approach to cut their cities’ emissions in half by 2030, share best practices and facilitate access to finance to improve urban resilience and foster green jobs in cities.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230606060640_a79b2b70e3bad0d7509e1c2ff3ccea451e540e98504d1d1815aa8e0d0fc7dcc5.jpg" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="20230606060640_a79b2b70e3bad0d7509e1c2ff3ccea451e540e98504d1d1815aa8e0d0fc7dcc5" data-rendition-name="original" width="626" height="353" loading="lazy" alt="Mumbai climate action"> <figcaption>Climate Action Plan 2022 (Source: Mumbai Government)</figcaption> </figure>  A traveler visiting Portugal´s C40 Cities member Lisbon might nowadays enjoy an unusual sight during their stopover: Flocks of sheep graze on the city´s meadows. Lisbon faced diverse environmental challenges ranging from droughts to flooding and extreme urban heat and water scarcity. In 2019 the city rolled out a project called life lungs, a <a href="https://life-lungs.lisboa.pt/en/">city-level climate initiative</a> that aims to make Lisbon greener and “cooler” by accelerating three simple tools: trees and biodiverse meadows, a water management system, and flocks of sheep.&nbsp; While a water management plan balances Lisbon´s heavy precipitation and water scarcity, biodiverse meadows and trees were planted to provide more green urban space, shade, and overall combat urban heat islands within the city. On these, meadows flocks of sheep are used as a traditional method to control vegetation and help with soil conservation.&nbsp; Cape Town in South Africa tries to connect the dots between city-level climate action, a circular economy, and private-sector engagement. The city runs a local initiative that supports the private sector in identifying and classifying its waste before trying to find ways to reuse it. The initiative has already diverted 100,000 tonnes of waste from landfills while avoiding more than 300,000 tonnes of greenhouse gas emissions.&nbsp; Nur Sultan in Kazakhstan counts on its fleet of electric busses while Peshawar in Pakistan has added a 26km bus corridor with park-and-ride facilities, green areas, and bicycle lanes to ease traffic and congestion. Car-free Sundays are another example of city-level climate action all around the world. Jarkata designates every Sunday in one area to be car-free, while Kigali´s car-free day twice a month is part of its efforts to make Kigali a greener city. Initiatives to tackle climate change at the sub-national level are not new and there are <a href="https://www.adb.org/sites/default/files/publication/705086/100-climate-actions-cities-asia-pacific.pdf">many more examples</a>, including from developing Asia, that can be utilised as part of a coherent and inclusive city-level climate action plan and strategy.&nbsp; Alongside the focus on reducing emissions by decarbonising the energy sector, advancing waste management, and promoting low-carbon transportation solutions, it is equally important to ensure such action plans incorporate climate resilience and support both climate adaptation as well as loss and damage.&nbsp; Global collaborations play an important role in transferring knowledge, and success stories on climate action to build urban resilience through a global network. Platforms such as<a href="https://www.c40.org"> C40 cities</a>, city-level disclosures through the <a href="https://www.cdp.net/en">Climate Disclosure Project</a>, and the <a href="https://www.globalcovenantofmayors.org">Global Covenant of Mayors for Climate and Energy</a> are important to set up frameworks for cities to follow and facilitate city exchanges.&nbsp; This conversation is particularly important for Nepal as it has ambitious climate policies such as the <a href="https://climate.mohp.gov.np/attachments/article/167/Second%20Nationally%20Determined%20Contribution%20(NDC)%20-%202020.pdf">nationally determined contribution</a> (NDC) to the Paris Agreement and the <a href="https://unfccc.int/sites/default/files/resource/NAP_Nepal.pdf">long-term strategy</a> for net-zero emissions by 2045. At the same time, Nepal also <a href="https://www.thethirdpole.net/en/climate/analysis-how-decentralisation-in-nepal-is-undermining-climate-action/">recognises the importance of local governments</a> to integrate disaster risk management and climate actions, including both climate adaptation and mitigation, under the Local Disaster and Climate Resilient Planning (<a href="https://www.opml.co.uk/files/Publications/a1594-strengthening-the-disaster-risk-response-in-nepal/harmonising-climate-adapatation-and-disaster-risk-reduction-initiatives.pdf">LDCRP</a>) framework. Nepal’s Waling municipality has developed a resilience roadmap aligned to Paris agreements and SDGs with an aim to transform the town into a resilient city by 2030 with focus on waste management, creation of green jobs and businesses, saving lives and critical infrastructure from disaster risks and decongesting the core area for more open space and greenery. The municipality is currently managing more than 11 tons of solid waste on daily basis. The work of SDG-sub platform on Sustainable Cities supported by UNDP has recognised sensitivity of functional attributes of cites to externalities and shocks as a determining factor of city resilience.&nbsp; However, despite the good intentions behind local-level climate action, there are <a href="https://www.thethirdpole.net/en/climate/analysis-how-decentralisation-in-nepal-is-undermining-climate-action/">several bottlenecks</a> that have hindered progress. Some of these include a lack of coordination between central and local government, overlaps and differences between central and local policies, challenges with climate budget allocation, and a lack of technical capacity at the local level to drive climate action.&nbsp; Climate policies in the local level are also primarily focused on adaptation and climate resilience, as opposed to climate mitigation. While this makes sense for the majority of local governments in Nepal, Kathmandu Valley’s urban population is growing at <a href="https://tomorrowscities.org/sites/default/files/resources/2020-11/Tomorrow%27s%20Cities%20Working%20Paper%20%231.pdf">around 6.5% annually</a>, indicating one of the fastest-growing urban areas in South Asia. With rising population and emissions, cities and urban areas also need a strong focus on climate mitigation.&nbsp; Nepal’s ambitious climate goals and impressive 43% of forest cover means little to the 80% of population who reside in urban areas that are rampant with unmanaged urbanisation and high pollution. City-level climate action is necessary to bring change in urbanised areas that are most in need of climate action.&nbsp; Vijaya Singh, Assistant Resident Representative at UNDP Nepal agrees and affirms that “cities and urban centers in Nepal play a critical role in tackling climate change and it is right time for the municipal governments to think of resilient city planning to contribute to emission reduction targets, addressing challenges such as air and water pollution, and provide a host of other co-benefits.” Cities in Nepal, such as Kathmandu, even have a unique opportunity to support the country's access to much important climate finance which is a key condition for Nepal to meet its climate targets and be resilient to the climate crisis. A clear roadmap and strategy on climate action can help mobilise financing not just through the generation of a bankable pipeline to attract climate finance but also through a <a href="https://cff-prod.s3.amazonaws.com/storage/files/EDsd35B78syp19aUcji1Rz37HKMHpsVaNrMODbgy.pdf">variety of financing options</a> ranging from public to private sources of finance.&nbsp; Such a strategy can come from the national level as national approaches can be more efficient than city-level actions but needs to be complemented with implementation plans and roadmaps in the city level, tailored to the unique circumstances of each city, to ensure the centralised approach is executed, individualised and taken forward in the local level.&nbsp; Suman Basnyat, Infrastructure Finance Specialist and an advisor to a former Minister of Energy, Water Resource and Irrigation, flags that “city-level governments in Nepal still depend on national funding and therefore are spared the fiscal space for large-scale local climate actions. It holds true for all layers of government in Nepal. This fact opens up a huge investment potential for the private sector on city-level climate action but this also needs to be based on reasonable reciprocity of risk and return.”&nbsp; Green bonds have emerged as key debt instrument to mobilise climate finance globally, and this conversation is picking up at the national level in Nepal. A green municipal bond is a <a href="https://oneplace.fbk.eu/financing-energy-efficiency/financing-energy-efficiency/transnational-methodological-framework/financing-models-for-energy-efficiency/green-municipal-bonds/">fixed-income financial instrument</a> for raising capital through the debt capital market. The Green City Bonds Coalition has developed a guidebook on <a href="https://www.climatebonds.net/files/files/How-to-Issue-Green-City-Bonds.pdf">how cities can issue a green municipal bond</a> which can be issued to fund green projects in cities for a range of projects including climate-friendly urban infrastructure, such as low-carbon buildings, metro rail systems, wastewater treatment plants and renewable energy.&nbsp; China provides an example of green bonds. With China being the world´s second-largest green bond market, local governments can make use of a <a href="https://www.climatebonds.net/files/reports/cbi_gfo_china_05b.pdf">green “municipal special purpose bond”</a> to raise money for climate action. These green bonds are not directly issued through the municipality itself but through companies capitalised and owned by the local government such as state-owned enterprises.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230606060640_f9b1360686c4ffa06ed369b2cf87040ff93d170c2d544d2280b3562e8f996fac.jpg" data-media-id="editor_20" data-image-id="20230606060640_f9b1360686c4ffa06ed369b2cf87040ff93d170c2d544d2280b3562e8f996fac" data-rendition-name="original" width="780" height="355" loading="lazy" alt="Green bonds"> <figcaption>Green Bond Issuances by Entities (Source: Climate Bonds Initiative)</figcaption> </figure>  Mathias Lund Larsen, a Senior Research Consultant at the International Institute of Green Finance in Beijing, notes that “growth in the green bond market has been an important contributor to financing China’s infrastructure gap through green financing. At the local level, state-owned enterprises owned by local governments typically are the ones issuing green bonds.”&nbsp; Although<a href="https://www.undp.org/nepal/publications/background-policy-paper-green-financing-nepal"> far-fetched at this stage</a> for a country with a shallow capital market, poor credit culture, and debt-management practice, a clear roadmap can also pave the way for Nepali cities with adequate fiscal capacity to eventually attract financing for climate mitigation actions through municipal climate and green bonds, although a bond is just one instrument as part of the broader financing toolbox.&nbsp; Mathias adds, “while ambitious, it is important for city governments in developing economies to understand and ideate the role it can play in tackling climate change and ways to mobilise finance towards that endeavor.” The opportunities are plentiful for cities in Nepal to drive climate action at the heart of where it is most needed and enable the inflow of critical climate finance to turn Nepal’s ambitious climate policies into a reality. This needs to be complemented by clear recognition of city-level action in national climate policies, with due harmonisation to ensure effective implementation, and tailored roadmaps in the city-level to take this forward. Starting a conversation is the first step that needs to be followed by significant capacity building efforts to ensure sub-national and city level climate action planning scales up in Nepal and urban residents can benefit from improved climate mitigation and resilience. Rastraraj Bhandari works on climate finance and carbon markets, and contributes regularly to Nepali Times on issues related to climate change. Simone Weichenrieder works on the intersection between climate resilience, private sector engagement and conservation finance.

Nepali cities must champion climate action

Dearest Miti,
The past few weeks were spent with my face buried in your book. And something about lolling with a book in a bed lit by the sun, reminded me of your room in Ganeshbasti. You remember how the patterned, frosted glass on the window trapped sunlight, like we were inches away from being singed?&nbsp;
We spent hours on your bed chatting, reading and sometimes sleeping, limbs piled up in a bunch, while the Usha fan hummed above us, and then woke up to Rita’s very sweet, condensed tea.
Our homes were different. Even in how we drank teas. At mine, tea was less milky, with a faint hint of sugar.
At your place, the bed was the communion. If not yours, we would be sitting on M Auntie’s, chatting, drinking tea and listening to her “blasphemous” ideas about the gods-- Ram was a wife-beater and Bishnu was a good-for-nothing rheumatic.
At mine, beds were strictly meant for sleeping at night. It was an unspoken rule. And so it was never my room that we hung out in, but yours, re-reading your Sachi stories, the one about the imposter hermit and the one about a woman who liked to climb trees-- the one forsaken by her family and society. You wrote so many stories!
Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/suburban-tales/walk-of-shame">Walk of shame</a>, Pratibha Tuladhar
Now, reading them in a new light in your novel, I finally understand that the journey had begun so long ago and you were arriving at this point the whole time. We were becoming over the years and perhaps shaped one another?
You fetched new things to my sight. One time you said, it is remarkable that in these times of discrimination, two of your closest friends are Tarians. Back then, I wondered what friendship had anything to do with discrimination.&nbsp;
Growing up in a tole of mostly guy friends, who eventually joined the British Army or went abroad to study or enlisted in the Chakre Milan gang, I hadn’t thought of the why. But many things set in perspective when you came into my life.&nbsp;
Janakpur, for instance, came into existence for me when you did. It is true. When you said your village was Sabaila, I experienced the longing for the name of a village I could also call mine. But there has only ever been Kathmandu for me. All these years, Sabaila was to me a name until your book gave it the colour; brown fields, brown everything.
Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/suburban-tales/vignettes-from-war">Vignettes from war</a>, Pratibha Tuladhar
In contrast is Kathmandu with its “width not enough to last a run”, with its sudden gorges and hills. Your descriptions are replete with gorgeousness and nostalgia, it makes me pause at phrases and wonder when you learned to write like music.&nbsp;
As a young, somewhat confused girl, your words were my reprieve. I had needed throughout my lonely schoolyears, to find friendships that filled the cracks in me as your poems and stories did.
And so when you left for the US, I found myself caught in a blankness, a bit like Preeti in your novel feels when Sachi leaves-- anger and brokenness that nothing mends. And year after year, you carry it like a secret stone in your pocket, until time passes you by and you can’t remember when or where you put it away. Once in a while, you slip a hand absentmindedly into your pocket.
Reading your book made that spot abundant.&nbsp;
Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/suburban-tales/we-are-fire-breathing-dragons">We are fire-breathing dragons</a>, Pratibha Tuladhar
You also brought the little monkey back to life. I wince when Adi and Preeti stand before the rowdy brick-sellers, trying to rescue the monkey, and Adi is called “Marsiya”.
In another section of the book, you describe the word as being a swear word. I immediately want to call you and explain that the word Marsya in Newa, means someone from abroad. Marse means abroad. In that sense, Marsya would mean an outsider, while the word might also be a derivative of Madhesiya, meaning a Tarian. The word is not a slur in itself but can be used as one, just as you could call me an Urani to identify my “caste” but you could also call me “Urani!” as a slur.
Words can take on different meanings within communities as they get woven into a complex tapestry of how each new user adds meaning and intent to it.
I want to call and explain, but how long since we talked about anything? Since you left?
It is probably the fate of all female friendships-- your characters, Kumud and Meena, Sachi and Preeti. Female friendships are to be mourned years after they were alive.&nbsp;
Your novel traces many uncomfortable ideas and conversations avoided. You use the word “Mongoloid”, a term now obsolete and offensive. You also describe Pahadis as people who “share features with Tibetan and their Chinese neighbours”.
These terms used as perceptions by your characters point at the fissures between the people in different parts of Nepal. There’s hostility and a lack of trust. It is as if being Nepali means instantly being aware of our ethnicity and differences. Nepali language isn’t good enough as a binder because once we step into the privacy of our own homes, it is a language we leave at the threshold.
The concept of Kathmandu then, is a temporary one. &nbsp;
Manmohan and his Indian friend Mr Katyal think of it as the backyard where money is to be made, it lacks belongingness. And home, is an imagination.
Yet you create a nest for the readers with the years spanning across political seasons. The Kathmandu of our childhood is tactile, even with its mangled timeline, that annoys the journalist in me.&nbsp;
Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/suburban-tales/write-fearlessly-she-said">Write fearlessly, she said</a>, Pratibha Tuladhar
&nbsp;Nepal Police did not wear blue until after the 1990s democratic movement. The Hrithik Roshan riots did not occur close to the democratic movements. And the Rajiv Gandhi embargo had everything to do with a failed treaty and little with “Christian wrath”.
Your character, ADC Gurung tells his wife he will buy her land in Ganeshbasti. But the tole only got its name in the 90s after Gurung was jailed and his property was confiscated and was meant to be turned into a park with a Ganesh temple. But Gurung was able to secure his land after release and the temple was never built. Until this day, Ganeshbasti does not have a Ganesh temple.
While somewhat misplaced, the political narrative becomes the spine for a compelling story about a woman’s fight and anger against a world that inflicts trauma on her just because she is her. It points at the complexity of geopolitics in South Asia and how it barely changes.
I have come away sore from the reading.
There have been memories of madnesses. There has been tenderness. Then storms, bickering and banter. I learned that all great stories come from truth, but that truth can be a mangled version of reality.
Your book is brave.
I love the possibility of a female Utopia. Because isn’t it what every woman desires? To be free to be? To climb trees. To be needed with nothing. &nbsp;
All your anecdotes are hyperbole, Miti. In hyperbole, are possibilities.
Love,
P

We used to be flowering trees

The most emblematic case from Nepal’s armed conflict is of <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/news/she-would-have-been-33-this-year" target="_blank">Maina Sunwar</a>, but it quietly slipped away from the Supreme Court docket last week.&nbsp; On 23 May the presiding judges said they could not hear the case because of a conflict of interest. It has been three years since the Supreme Court has continuously adjourned <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=15409" target="_blank">Maina Sunwar</a>’s case hearings.&nbsp; Contrast this to <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/news/who-is-resham-chaudhary" target="_blank">Resham Chaudhary</a>, whose crime occurred 11 years after <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/blogs/thebrief/2015/02/17/remembering-maina/" target="_blank">Sunwar</a> was killed in 2004. His case was processed by the District Court, High Court, Supreme Court and he was released from prison on a presidential pardon.&nbsp; Maina Sunwar and Resham Chaudhary both involve criminal cases against a backdrop of political armed struggle, and involve the security forces. They raise similar legal questions such as: What degree of murder was committed? Who were the commanders that ordered them, what was their responsibility?&nbsp; &nbsp;Read Also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/who-is-resham-chaudhary">Who is Resham Chaudhary...</a>, Shristi Karki One marked difference in the cases is that in Maina Sunwar’s case the <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/blogs/thebrief/2013/02/16/still-waiting/" target="_blank">perpetrator was the Nepal Army</a>, whereas in Resham Chaudhary’s case members of the security forces were victims. The contrast of how these two cases moved through the courts exposes some bigger concerns in procedures followed and decisions made in criminal trials in Nepal.&nbsp; There has been a consistent stream of analysis that pins the delays in cases processing through the court system to human resource deficit. particularly the failure to appoint judges. This is only one part of the problem. &nbsp; Cases are listed for hearing by the court’s administrative staff. Each week all courts produce a list of cases that will appear before the judges called the ‘Weekly Cause List’.&nbsp; For example, the Supreme Court releases a list of around 200 cases to be presented before judges that week. The cases are listed in order of priority meaning that realistically only the first 90 cases have a chance of being heard that week. The rest are adjourned. These cases need not be listed in the next week’s cause list but rather are likely to be listed after at least a month.&nbsp; Court administrative staff, as opposed to judges, use their discretion to sequence cases on the weekly cause list. The Chief Justice and administrative heads of the courts supervise the weekly lists and can change the order of cases.&nbsp; Whilst there are laws providing guidance on how to prioritise cases on the list such as processing cases affecting women, children, prisoners and elderly quickly, it is largely discretionary. Decision making remains mostly opaque at all levels.&nbsp; Moreover, it is common understanding amongst lawyers that this lack of transparency in drawing up cause lists opens up room for undue political influence and corruption by administrative staff in either moving up cases or pushing them down the list. Cases can be essentially buried through this function of procedural decision making by administrators.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230603130652_2a8fb07731cbdd5da02da1cb329ea210e014973b09efd3c1e825147a26c179b2.jpg" data-media-id="editor_6" data-image-id="20230603130652_2a8fb07731cbdd5da02da1cb329ea210e014973b09efd3c1e825147a26c179b2" data-rendition-name="original" width="400" height="406" loading="lazy" alt="Maina Sunwar"> <figcaption>Maina Sunwar, who was killed in detention at Nepal Army barracks in 2004.</figcaption> </figure>  Maina Sunwar’s case has been in the courts since 2007. The military has challenged the legitimacy of civilian courts to hear this case after it conducted its own court martial. This petition has lingered at the Supreme Court which in turn has adjourned this hearing five times since 2019. The reason being that the case was listed too far down the order in the cause list.&nbsp; &nbsp;In contrast, Resham Chaudhary’s case was processed in about six years. The speed at which the two cases have moved through the courts raises questions about what legal and non-legal factors affected the court administrator’s decision-making in listing these cases.&nbsp; In Maina Sunwar’s case decision, the Patan High Court and Kavre District Court established that <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=941" target="_blank">military personnel Amit Pun and Sunil Adhikari under the command of Bobby Khatri</a> abducted, tortured, killed and disappeared 15 year old Maina inside the Panchkhal barracks.&nbsp; The judges acknowledge the torture that led to the death of Sunwar is a violation of international human rights law deserving of a life sentence. However, in a remarkable display of sympathy towards the military, the judges state that a life sentence would be excessive for the perpetrators who were working under extraordinary pressures of the armed conflict.&nbsp; The life sentence was lowered to five years of imprisonment by both courts, the same punishment for the commanding officer Bobby Khatri and his subordinate officers. International human rights law is clear on its absolute prohibition against torture under all circumstance and stipulates the duty of the state to safeguard children during an armed conflict.&nbsp; A sentence mitigation, after citing Nepal’s obligation to follow these laws in the judgment, is a baffling leap in legal logic. No military personnel has yet served this sentence.&nbsp; High Courts in Nepal should be persuaded (as opposed to bound) by previous rulings in similar cases as a matter of legal principle. It is interesting that the political consideration that mitigated sentences for <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/from-nepali-press/mother-fights-for-justice-Devi-Sunar,2837" target="_blank">military personnel in Maina Sunwar’s case</a> are summarily dismissed in Resham Chaudhary’s case judgment.&nbsp; After all, the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/tikapur-s-protracted-trauma" target="_blank">2015 killings in Tikapur</a>, for which Resham Chaudhary was handed a life sentence, is termed a political struggle (as opposed to a criminal act) by the Tharu community. The judges are within their rights to declare an incident a criminal act as opposed to a political act.&nbsp; However, judges either needed to examine legal parameters of political armed struggle vis-a-vis existing criteria under international laws such as whether the group has a structure, organisation or military command. Or, they needed to propose a set of legal criteria for political acts that fit the Nepali context which can be used for subsequent cases before the court. This legal engagement to separate a criminal act from a political act is significantly underdeveloped in Resham Chaudhary’s case judgment.&nbsp; The legal value of the Maina Sunwar and Resham Chaudhary case was immense. They presented an opportunity for Nepal’s Supreme Court to deliberate and set legal standards on some pertinent legal questions relating to political movements that would assist future cases.&nbsp; These include questions like separating sporadic criminal uprisings from political violence, establishing the gravity of death by torture, defining the parameters of command responsibility in security forces and political groups amongst others.&nbsp; However as Maina Sunwar’s case stalls and Resham Chaudhary’s presidential pardon potentially lifts the Supreme Court’s obligation to issue a full length decision, the engagement with legal elements of justice remain compromised.&nbsp; Aastha Dahal is a Kathmandu-based lawyer with a PhD in criminology from the University of Cambridge.

Comparing Maina Sunwar and Resham Chaudhary cases

In the past few weeks as Nepal faces trying times with falling growth and high inflation, Kathmandu has witnessed numerous seminars, conferences and workshops with the discourse revolving around the economy and investments.&nbsp;
The consensus that Nepal needs foreign direct investments (FDI) to grow was once again repeated, and the familiar litany of reasons about why it has not been able to. Policy advocates and regulators have understood that the lack of urgency is compounded by procedural inconsistencies and added to the already deficient investment environment in the country.
It is a welcome change from what used to be flippantly accepting things as given that there is now a sense of urgency, with procedural inconsistencies and lack of harmonisation between various Acts and regulations openly discussed.&nbsp;
Furthermore, the desire from government stakeholders to learn and attempt to be part of the solution is also beginning to happen. &nbsp;Whatever policy changes have been introduced in the past have been piecemeal and address the few rather than the entire industry, thus leaving dual regulatory approaches aimed at similar players. &nbsp;
To attract FDI in a competitive global market means Nepal has to demonstrate that it is serious about bringing in investments with a more consultative and collaborative approach with investors. &nbsp;A departure from procedural to a result-oriented focus is needed.&nbsp;
Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/editorial/invest-in-investment">Invest in investment</a>
To put issues in perspective, Nepal needs US$20 billion in investments to meet SDG (the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals) targets by 2030. If net-zero decarbonisation targets are to be met by 2045 another US$7 billion will be required annually.&nbsp;
Looking at our investment history and poor government capital expenditure, the gap is long and wide. &nbsp;Last week’s budget showed that in the nine months of this fiscal year, Nepal was able to book a lamentable US$9 million in FDI (equity) investments, a decrease of 98% from the corresponding period last year.&nbsp;
Nepal is in fact the lowest market in South Asia for FDI with 0.3% of the regional average. &nbsp;What is it that we can do to fill the gap?&nbsp;
First: we need to move away from the notion that Nepal only needs large investments. This has proven to be a mistake, and time series data have proven that smaller investments, in aggregate, make a larger impact to economies.&nbsp;
We talk about an ‘enabling environment’ but without the right tools. &nbsp;We place restrictions on interest on debt ceiling (Libor +5.5), without risk premium adjustments, we do not have an active secondary market for bond trading, nor do we have a yield curve, an integral part of the bond market. &nbsp;
Read also: <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/regular-columns/Comment/making-nepal-fdi-friendly,853">Making Nepal FDI friendly</a>, Shyamal K Shrestha
In order to attract green financing, Nepal needs to develop its bond market. Billions of dollars of green climate funds are waiting to be tapped. Sovereign risk rating has been mooted, but to be rated in an adverse economic environment could further deteriorate investment potential due to a lesser than expected rating. &nbsp;
Hedging is another instrument that needs further research on. A commercial bank recently showcased the first risk hedging mechanism for an investment of $8 million. &nbsp;This can be the beginning to expand on its modality. &nbsp;&nbsp;
Subordinated debt instruments have been introduced, but on a special nod basis, this now needs to be institutionalised as it is the most applicable form of investments after equity in a market that has volatile forex reserves.&nbsp;
Viability Gap Funding has yet to be implemented and has been in active discussions for a few years now. &nbsp;This needs to come into effect to encourage solar installations in the country.
Moving forward, to attract FDI, Nepal needs to tap into the funds that are available for the growth of small and medium enterprises (SMEs) and climate change. &nbsp;Alternative investments such as Private Equity Venture Capital (PEVC) have been around in a structured manner in Nepal for nearly a decade now. These funds have blended finance components and have attracted climate funding as well. &nbsp;
Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/from-the-nepali-press/why-there-is-no-foreign-investment-in-nepal">Why there is no foreign investment in Nepal</a>
PEVC is a new asset class and can address the issues of penetrating into SME financing by incorporating environment, social and governance issues into their investment process. &nbsp;SMEs are the backbone of any economy, PEVC comes with the ability not only to scale up the enterprise with risk capital, but with the ability to bring technical know — how to enhance not only the enterprise, but also the entrepreneur. &nbsp;A differentiator from all other forms of financing available till date in Nepal.&nbsp;
Blended finance is a way of de-risking investments especially in frontier markets. <a href="https://bo2.com.np/" target="_blank">Business Oxygen (BO2)</a> is an example of blended finance with subordinated debt investments of IFC (World Bank Group) taking the lead and Climate Investment Funds along with FCDO as co-investors. &nbsp;
On a larger scale, the 216MW Upper Trisuli1 is another example of blended finance with IFC, a Korean consortium and local investments. &nbsp;So far, we see that development finance Institutions have been taking the lead in Nepal as their risk appetite is greater than commercial investors and they are eager to help develop the financial markets. &nbsp;
In order to be sustainable, we need to step on this and attract commercial capital from all over the world. To do this there has to be political will to make that pivot.&nbsp;
The recent budget has tried to address some issues in a cosmetic manner, and once again it lacks the overall approach to the problem. &nbsp;Nepal has outdone many countries in its macro-economic indicators, with sound forex reserves and a stellar history of debt payments to its creditors. This story needs to be propagated along with the drive for change to attract potential investors.&nbsp;
Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/guest-column/so-you-d-like-to-do-business-in-nepal">So you’d like to do business in Nepal?</a>, Ritu Pradhan Malla

Alternative investments to attract FDI

Nepal’s Prime Minister Pushpa Kamal Dahal’s three-day official visit to India starting Wednesday is being keenly watched in Kathmandu and these borderlands of the Tarai.
Relations between the two asymmetric South Asian neighbours at the moment are neither ‘chilly’ nor ‘warm’. Things have got a lot more cordial since UML Prime Minister K P Oli was replaced by a Maoist-Nepali Congress coalition led by Sher Bahadur Deuba in 2022.&nbsp;
The visit comes as Prime Minister Dahal tried to keep his shaky 9-party coalition intact, by even getting a presidential pardon this week for an MP convicted for the killing of policemen in Kailali in 2015.&nbsp;
Disillusionment with Nepal’s three mainstream parties has manifested in the rise of the independent RSP, while the RPP is trying to promote ex-king Gyanendra as a symbol of national unity, stability and the revival of a Hindu kingdom, hoping to ride the Hindutva wave in India.
Indeed, Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s aggressive Hindu-right agenda is having a ripple effect across the border. Despite his BJP’s defeat in the Karnataka polls earlier this month, Modi seems to be on a roll because of India’s buoyant economy.
It has become somewhat of a tradition for a new prime minister in Nepal to fly to New Delhi on his first pilgrimage to pay his respects to rulers there, even if it is someone who is prime minister for the third time.
Questions have been raised about whether Dahal should necessarily &nbsp;follow this practice, but Dahal nevertheless cancelled what was to be his first visit to China in March to attend the Boao Forum in Hainan.
Dahal has to finely balance the need to appease Indian leaders to extract concessions on river projects, air routes, infrastructure assistance, while at the same time playing to the gallery back home by not kowtowing too much.
The chronic problem in India-Nepal relations has been a trust deficit in both capitals about each other. What does Nepal expect from India, and what does India want to do in Nepal? Bilateral relations should not depend on which leader or party is in power in New Delhi or Kathmandu, it should have continuity and be determined by what will benefit citizens of both countries.&nbsp;
In 2014, India had appeared to change its approach to Nepal by appearing magnanimous during Prime Minister Modi’s first visit, but the goodwill he built collapsed with the blockade and bilateral relations chilled as non-political actors started directing policy.
It will not work if one set of leaders in Nepal sanctifies India, while another vilifies it. This might serve their immediate political interest, but will do long-term harm to mutual ties. Leaders are also fickle and erratic in their stance: Prime Minister Dahal is the same person who during the conflict threatened to wage a ‘tunnel war’ against India.
Dahal’s visit to Delhi also comes at a time of heightened geopolitical tension in the region with growing Sino-US polarisation, India’s involvement in the Quad and the danger of Nepal being forced to choose sides between its neighbours. Nepal will need to deploy all its diplomatic skills to play its role in this new world stage.
India’s rulers may also need to ponder why the traditional close ties with Nepal have become frayed. True friends talk things over, and it is in the interest of both neighbours to rebuild trust. New Delhi strategists appear sanguine that whatever the noise on social media, its tactics in Nepal are working.&nbsp;
But many Nepalis still feel that India acts like Big Brother and pushes its weight around, promises a lot and delivers little. Dahal needs to take this up at the highest levels during his visit and obtain tangible results to reboot relations to at least 2014 levels.
Nowhere is the people-to-people relations between India and Nepal felt as keenly as in the Tarai. The open border, close cultural and family links and trade bind the two countries together.&nbsp;
However, even here there is a feeling that India is unfeeling. Every year, poorly-designed road, railway and flood control embankments in Bihar and Uttar Pradesh inundate Tarai towns. Every monsoon the Kathmandu media suddenly becomes ultra-nationalistic, laying all the blame on Indian state governments.&nbsp;
The Indian media also whips up anti-Nepal feelings by holding Nepal responsible for ‘unleashing water from its dams’ even though Nepal does not have any dams to let water out from and the border barrages are controlled by India.
Indeed, the national media (and increasingly social media posts) on both sides of the border are largely to blame for undermining the friendship between the people and governments of the two countries. Media should instead focus on evidence that embankment-building worsens water-logging in farms and towns on both sides of the border.
These floods are bound to get worse if the deforestation, sand mining and quarrying of the Chure Range resumes. Nepal will not just be exporting boulders and aggregates, but also increased sediment that will worsen floods and further lower the water table in Bihar and Uttar Pradesh.&nbsp;
In 2010, President Ram Baran Yadav raised the issue of Chure conservation during his visit to New Delhi, but the demand in India for raw material to feed its construction boom is so great that Nepali contractors with political patronage want to plunder the fragile Chure ecosystem.
Even when relations between New Delhi and Kathmandu were strained in the past, there was a belief that people-to-people bonds were strong. That narrative is now increasingly frayed. Indians and Nepalis are needlessly harassed by each other’s border security.&nbsp;
Nepal-India relations have always been defined by how well or badly governments in their capitals get along. Rather than Indian or Nepali people, leaders of the two countries determine the state of relations.
How well neighbouring countries get along is determined by geography, history, culture, trade, politics, religion. And those factors have kept ties across the border stable all these years, but Nepalis in the Tarai are asking: does New Delhi determine its policy towards Nepal by seeing how they will be affected, or by maintaining its influence on the movers and shakers in Kathmandu?
The marriage of Ram from India and Sita from Nepal are often cited to prove how close Nepal-India bonds are. The Buddha was born in Nepal but got enlightenment in India. But when leaders talk about Janakpur-Ayodhya, or Lumbini-Bodh Gaya, they seldom take into account the people who live there.
Bilateral relations should not be limited to periodic summits between the leaders of India and Nepal, they need to translate into action on the ground that makes the lives of the people of the borderlands more convenient and sustainable through better connectivity and environmental safeguards.&nbsp;
Chandra Kishore is a Birganj-based political commentator. His monthly column BORDERLINES appears in Nepali Times every month. &nbsp;@kishore_chandra

Nepal PM to India to reboot ties

NT #1164

A year ago in the hilltop town of Kirtipur overlooking Kathmandu, musicians started to experiment with a blend of Appalachian Bluegrass with the mewl of the sarangi from the Himalaya. Zoe Levitt, a Bluegrass mandolinist and songwriter from the US, and Prince Nepali, a fourth-generation sarangi player and educator, bonded well and established their Nepali-American folk fusion band, Manaslu Blue.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230521150536_dbba6249269f8f2cf5e3a1ce61bbee2da31f735947d02377ecf44ea6034c0b81.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="20230521150536_dbba6249269f8f2cf5e3a1ce61bbee2da31f735947d02377ecf44ea6034c0b81" data-rendition-name="original" width="2000" height="1333" loading="lazy" alt="Manaslu Blue"> </figure>  One year later, Manaslu Blue debuted in KatGrass: Bluegrass &amp; Nepali Folk Fusion Concert to a diverse audience of Nepali and international enthusiasts in an evening of high-energy music, dancing, and cheers at Moksh. Manaslu Blue has Prince Nepali on sarangi, Zoe Levitt on mandolin, Anish Tamang on guitar, Sabin Ghising on flute, Yuson Maharjan on percussion, and Ryan O’Donnell on vocals and guitar (featured guest artist for KatGras). The musicians are united in their effort to preserve traditional music with members particularly concerned about preserving folk music and their unique instruments like the sarangi, bansuri, and damaha.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230521150536_ffcdd0197a4e00e4f4d9a693b3a87dc523e5c1db65b29f368e73fc7fdbbec357.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="20230521150536_ffcdd0197a4e00e4f4d9a693b3a87dc523e5c1db65b29f368e73fc7fdbbec357" data-rendition-name="original" width="2000" height="1333" loading="lazy" alt="Manaslu Blue"> </figure>  “The new generation does not have folk artists to look up to, traditional musicians need to be recognised if we want to preserve our folk tunes,” says Prince Nepali who runs classes in Sarangi Ghar. Nepali is also looking to make archives of traditional songs, including some composed by his great-grandfather.&nbsp; Guitarist Anish Tamang adds that many younger Nepalis, as well as musicians look up to Western genres, prioritising it over traditional music. This has also meant that there are not as many platforms to learn traditional music.&nbsp; Manaslu Blue has an upcoming EP which will highlight Nepali folk music and musicians, and help listeners recognise the band members as artists who can inspire new, younger audiences. Bluegrass and Nepali folk music come from different corners of the world, however, unlike sheet music, both styles are traditional and are learned by ear.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230521150540_8f4a8d4981cc1ff4a4100769bacafe9cd498312165d733b39e47575e606a1b2f.jpg" data-media-id="editor_2" data-image-id="20230521150540_8f4a8d4981cc1ff4a4100769bacafe9cd498312165d733b39e47575e606a1b2f" data-rendition-name="original" width="2000" height="1333" loading="lazy" alt="Manaslu Blue"> </figure>  The musicians have to listen to one another and play what feels right to them at the moment. Since everyone in the band is comfortable with improvisation, the band produces something new every time they perform, a unique charm that defines the band’s synergy. The music alternates between the use of different instruments like mandolin, flute, sarangi, percussion, and guitar as everybody plays in sync as well as spaces out to give every instrument their unique solos and voices.&nbsp; Fusing folk music with Bluegrass also opens the door to experimentation, diverse collaborations, and unique music. The band plans to introduce this fusion to a global audience, starting with Bluegrass festivals around the globe to surprise different musical communities. “Nepali bands often target the Nepali diaspora when touring internationally. Manaslu Blue wants to introduce it to a larger audience, like at Bluegrass festivals and folk festivals and beyond, so Nepali folk music gets exposure to different demographics,” says Zoe Levitt, adding that the band is open to collaborating with folk musicians from around the world.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230521150540_28fd8caca9031aaa7fef03dd178b3937c11f57c188a62267e67f883f0d96d339.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="20230521150540_28fd8caca9031aaa7fef03dd178b3937c11f57c188a62267e67f883f0d96d339" data-rendition-name="original" width="2000" height="1333" loading="lazy" alt="Manaslu Blue"> </figure>  Band manager Akriti Maya, has her job cut out for herself with Bluegrass being a new musical genre in Nepal. She says: “Fusion can be scary, but when they work, it is almost like they are philosophically connected.” For Maya, folk music is synergetic and works well in courtyards where people from different communities let themselves indulge in the unique mixture of their folk music and dance. At Moksh last week, Americans toe-tapped to the Bluegrass tunes while the Nepalis waved their hands, combining dance steps from both traditions.&nbsp; Manaslu Blue members bridge the musical distance between the Appalachian and Himalayan mountains. The members are united by their shared love for the music and the traditional instruments that produce the sound.&nbsp; Ryan O’Donnell, a featured guest of the band, puts it best: “The music is powerful, beautiful, spellbinding – it is a very logical combination.”&nbsp;

In Nepal, East meets West musically

The Tibeto-Burman language <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=11362">Thangmi (or Thami)</a> is spoken by 33,500 Nepalis. Historically unwritten and genetically related to Nepal Bhasa, Rai, or Baram, the language is also among the least documented in Nepal.&nbsp; But this will change thanks to a new two-volume monograph, A Grammar of the Thangmi Language, by Vancouver-based anthropologist and linguist Mark Turin. Originally published in the Netherlands in 2012 by Brill, it was launched last month by Social Science Baha and Himal Books and is now available to the Thangmi-speaking community and researchers in Nepal and India.&nbsp; Thangmi has two major dialects spoken in Dolakha and Sindhupalchok, and there is a wide variation even between them, with differences in verbal agreement systems. For example, the word for गुँरास is completely different on the two sides of the Bhote Kosi River. The verbs ‘to come’ or ‘to go’ are different according to the direction whence and whither the speaker sees the object of the sentence arrive or leave.&nbsp; Turin’s involvement with Thangmi dates back to 1996 when he moved to the Netherlands for a PhD at Leiden University, where he joined the Himalayan Languages Project under the tutelage of George van Driem, himself a Himalayan researcher. Turin had lived in Nepal previously, researching Thakali in lower Mustang. “I was in George’s office looking at this incredible map of the Himalayas with coloured pins and flags on it, and he asked me which language I would like to work on,” recalls Turin.&nbsp; The pins showed the locations of endangered and undocumented languages. Turin chose one which read थामी. By the spring of 1997, he was living in Damarang in Dolakha, learning and studying Thangmi.&nbsp; Among the more than 100 languages spoken in Nepal, many boast a robust documentary tradition, either by the community, foreign linguists, or both. However, when Turin began his research – and this was before Google and when the internet was still a fledgling – he searched the web got the only one hit: Joshua 2000, a group of missionaries who had identified the world’s least evangelised 100 peoples with the goal to bring the scriptures to the communities by 2000 AD, and the Thangmi were among them.&nbsp; “There was no comprehensive documentation then, a few hundred words had been compiled in a list by a few French and Japanese linguists and some Nepalis – but nothing beyond that,” Turin says. “It was striking how you could be in Kathmandu in the cusp of the new millennium and there was a language spoken not far away, and so little was known about it other than by the community itself.”&nbsp; Turin’s approach to the study of Thangmi was influenced by his interest in relationships and recording stories. People would walk long distances to bring him words or plants that he had not documented. Trained in anthropology, he was not studying the language, but rather learning it. The work was in the service of the community rather than solely in service of the language.&nbsp; “It is important to recognise local expertise not just as something you can extract but reimburse and elevate through co-publishing, co-authoring,” he says. “To try and offset the incredible differences of power, access and imbalance so the community’s own research can be promoted and made more visible.” Read Also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/lost-in-translation">Lost in Translation</a>, Alisha Sijapati This was when the Adivasi-Janjati movement, calling for recognition, reparation and justice for caste and ethnic discrimination was beginning in Nepal. There were demands for more proportionate representation of indigenous communities, including Thangmi, that had not got attention by the Nepali state for various political and cultural reasons. “Many communities like the Thangmi were looking for some kind of representation,” Turin says. “It was very clear that as much as I was working with the language-speakers, they were working with me. Language is valuable to people as it is the emotional, effective, embodied experience of their sense of self.”&nbsp; What this meant was taking local positions around language seriously. well. “For example, if the community says ‘this is sensitive, don’t write it down’, then don’t write it down,” he adds. “Some things are lost if they are not written down – but that is not my prerogative, it’s the community’s decision.” But there are often two points-of-views: linguistic and political. This is conspicuous in the case of the use of terms ‘Thami’ or ‘Thangmi’, and the proposed script for the language.&nbsp; The case of the ethnonyms presents an interesting debate. ‘Thami’ is a Nepalified term for ‘Thangmi’, and many older members of the community believe they should continue using the word because it is familiar at a national level. But the younger generation favours the endonym ‘Thangmi’.&nbsp; There are also discussions whether to use the Devanagari to write the language or invent a new, unique script. Thangmi is Tibetan-Burman but Devnagari is used to write Nepali, an Indo-European language. How appropriate is it for a writing system generated within one language family to map on to another? While this happens all the time – Nepal Bhasa is written in Ranjana or Prachalit scripts – Turin points out that there is also the matter of history, and an ethnic-cultural distinctiveness.&nbsp; While Devanagari would be more practical for Thangmi than Tibetan scripts, for example, the political backlash could be this it is also the script used by Brahmins and the Chhetris who have historically overlooked the community, he remarks. “Ramesh Thangmi and others in the community are looking at the scripts used by the Limbu community as a possibility for Thangmi,” he adds.&nbsp; There is also the issue of language revitalisation. Many Thangmi speakers remark that, growing up in the 90s especially, their parents would encourage them to speak in Nepali to fit in. &nbsp;Documentation is one step to reverse the devitalisation – as the monograph is testament. “But I feel like the real work has just begun,” says Turin. “Many languages have been documented in Nepal while others not, but it is an ongoing process. Then there is the future-proofing of that documentation through digitisation or archiving.”&nbsp; The last step is to connect, to publish the collection of documents, analyses, and to get them into schools. “And this never ends,” adds Turin. “Nepal now is in a great position with the new constitution and schools becoming more inclusive. Not a single young Thangmi speaker I know is mono-lingual and that is as it should be. This helps support innovation in the language, for Thangmi — as all languages — is always evolving.”  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2023051409058_214074c1d1f296adde6d3a28c8eedf7468f9b5275413412c04a3d85e5743faa7.jpg" data-media-id="editor_2" data-image-id="2023051409058_214074c1d1f296adde6d3a28c8eedf7468f9b5275413412c04a3d85e5743faa7" data-rendition-name="original" width="2370" height="1175" loading="lazy" alt="Deciphering Thangmi Books"> </figure>  Read Also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/at-the-edge-of-tomorrow">At the edge of tomorrow,</a> Mark Turin

Deciphering Thangmi

Maggie Doyne was a wide-eyed 19-year-old in 2006 when she came to Nepal to backpack. But she was not trekking to Everest Base Camp or the Annapurnas. She was in the remote Karnali region where tourists seldom venture. While walking along a dry river bed in Surkhet, she spotted a 6-year-old girl helping her mother break boulders for a construction contractor. The two smiled at each other.&nbsp; Her name was Hima Tamata, and she became the reason Maggie Doyne stayed on in Nepal to help disadvantaged children in the Karnali with money she earned from baby-sitting back home in Mendham, New Jersey. Seventeen years later, the act of enrolling Hima in school has grown into the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/BlinkNow.org/" target="_blank">BlinkNow Foundation</a> that runs the Kopila Valley Children’s Home and School in Surkhet. Along the way, Maggie Doyne was named CNN Hero in 2015, and has been featured in The New York Times, Forbes, and this newspaper. She was named Woman of the Year by Glamour magazine — all of this helping fundraise for BlinkNow’s many activities, which include educating 500 children at the Kopila school and vocational training for women. Kopila proves that high-quality education can be free, and its <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/starting-nepal-s-green-school-movement" target="_blank">new campus in Surkhet</a> is a model for sustainable architecture with rammed earth walls, rainwater harvesting, solar cooking, and a vegetable farm. Last year, Doyne’s biography <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/the-stone-breaker-s-daughter" target="_blank">Between the Mountain and the Sky: A Mother's Story of Hope and Love</a> was published by HarperCollins in North America, and the South Asian edition is being launched on 29 April in Kathmandu. The book is an emotional coming-of-age story of how one gap year student can change the world. Along the way, there are personal hurdles, financial challenges, the tragic loss of two children, and finally finding love.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230427080456_b7f7d80b54efafb15bff7c3c2fcc9fb28dc814278bc12f16e890bb626b208a03.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="20230427080456_b7f7d80b54efafb15bff7c3c2fcc9fb28dc814278bc12f16e890bb626b208a03" data-rendition-name="original" width="1795" height="1795" loading="lazy" alt="Maggie Doyne"> </figure>  Parents, including her own, back in the States do not understand why Doyne is not in college like everyone else’s kids. She does not fully comprehend it herself, but knows it was all because of one little girl breaking stones by the river in Surkhet. Doyne grapples with contradictions about Nepal: ‘I wonder how a culture that so celebrates children can also fail at protecting them … How can we alleviate suffering and improve the lives of children without westernising the world?’ As charities in Nepal have found out the hard way, there are obstacles when they try to do the work that the government should be doing. A powerful local Maoist implicated in the abuse of a 13-year-old girl gets journalists to smear Kopila, and suddenly there are death threats and physical attacks Read Also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/the-stone-breaker-s-daughter">The stone-breaker's daughter</a>, Ram Tamang We’ve crossed the line,’ Doyne recalls. ‘We’re no longer just feeding the forgotten women and children of Nepal; we’re empowering them. Nobody asked us to do that.’ She develops strong bonds with two &nbsp;rescued children: Juntara who has a tumour in her eye, and little Ravi who was found abandoned. Losing them scars Doyne deeply, but she gradually rebuilds inner strength by finding personal love, and a renewed motivation to expand and sustain Kopila. Just like the old song ‘Love will keep us together’, in the end it is love for Nepal and her children, for her co-workers that inspires Doyne. She writes: ‘We can choose love. We can create the world we want to live in, and the first step is believing that it’s possible.’ After nearly two decades, Doyne says it is time for her to step back from the limelight and put the focus on Nepali change-makers like Tope Malla who will take Kopila’s mission into the future.&nbsp; Doyne writes, ‘As people in positions of privilege and power, it is our responsibility to help, not constantly be the centre of the story.' Kopila’s alumni are now in jobs and universities around the world, they are teachers, scientists, farmers, entrepreneurs and even a striker in Nepal’s national female football team.&nbsp; <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/the-stone-breaker-s-daughter" target="_blank">Hima Tamata</a> is now a confident 24-year-old chef. Inspired by her friend and mentor, &nbsp;she wants to help other Nepalis like her. Read Also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/starting-nepal-s-green-school-movement">Starting Nepal's green school movement</a>, Sheilin Teo  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230427080448_7a9f70a2a6f8fd67d35d06b073f622a1e3f7f8439344ede573276aeb3675c1b7.jpg" data-media-id="editor_7" data-image-id="20230427080448_7a9f70a2a6f8fd67d35d06b073f622a1e3f7f8439344ede573276aeb3675c1b7" data-rendition-name="original" width="2000" height="1178" loading="lazy" alt="Maggie Doyne"> </figure>

Love and loss. Healing and hope.

An exhibit at the Swiss Alpine Museum here last month was a stark reminder of <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/nepal-s-mountains-are-melting">how fast the mountains are changing </a>due to climate breakdown.&nbsp; In the Après-Lift exhibition, author Daniel Anker documented the disappearance of Europe's once-popular <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=2837">skiing</a> culture, with the sport moving higher up the mountains due to global warming. The Tête de Ran skilift built in 1942 shut down in 2010, another one in Aargau was dismantled because of the lack of snow. The Col de Montvoie skilift was shut because making artificial snow became too costly. For many Swiss like avid climber and skier Fritz Indermühle, this has made it harder to enjoy a favourite past-time. He says, “I remember Silberhorn used to be completely white, now it is an unrecognisable black rock.”&nbsp; Many in Nepal who have also seen the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/if-the-ice-is-gone-we-are-done">ice disappear on Himalayan peaks</a> will find this familiar. Mt Machapuchre was a rocky black pyramid this winter, even though it is nearly 7,000m high. Indeed, across the Alps and the Himalaya, the climate crisis is no longer an apocalyptic theme in a science fiction novel. It is <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/human-face-of-a-himalayan-climate-crisis">happening within a generation</a> in front of the eyes of people living in the foothills of both mountain ranges. Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/editorial/political-environment">Political environment</a>, Editorial&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230605170636_edc453e2f021e3ef860a36a0f10e81d0b697e116333ee0765e09c32e955d8c21.png" data-media-id="editor_5" data-image-id="20230605170636_edc453e2f021e3ef860a36a0f10e81d0b697e116333ee0765e09c32e955d8c21" data-rendition-name="original" width="530" height="355" loading="lazy" alt="Alps and the Himalaya NT 2"> <figcaption>The Grosse Aletschgletscher in 1978 (above) and in 2015 (below).</figcaption> </figure>   <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230605170636_cef5682ed7e730a45ae95eedd7b9fbb1cdb18faf32616fbb620e758755004203.png" data-media-id="editor_6" data-image-id="20230605170636_cef5682ed7e730a45ae95eedd7b9fbb1cdb18faf32616fbb620e758755004203" data-rendition-name="original" width="531" height="355" loading="lazy" alt="Alps and the Himalaya NT 3"> </figure>  &nbsp;"In both the Alps and the Himalaya, climate change is having a devastating effect,” says Pema Gyamtsho, Director General of the International Centre for Integrated Mountains Development (ICIMOD) who is a former politician from Bhutan and did his PhD at the Eidgenössische Technische &nbsp;Hochschule (ETH) in Zürich. He adds, “Alpine glaciers are melting as fast as in the Himalaya, snowfall patterns are erratic, and transboundary issues in Europe have become more important because of the socio-economic impact of melting ice.“&nbsp; <a href="https://www.icimod.org">ICIMOD</a> and the Alpine Convention are now sharing their cryosphere research and pushing the mountain agenda at climate summits, including COP28 in Dubai in November. &nbsp; Scientists from the <a href="https://www.glamos.ch/en/">Glacier Monitoring Switzerland (GLAMOS)</a> have found that the Alps have lost 30-50% of their ice mass in the last decade. Even more melting is expected this year because of forecast heat waves in Europe.&nbsp; Compared to the Himalaya, Alpine glaciers appear to be in even more trouble because of reduced winter snow accumulation, record summer heat, and deposition of wind-blown sand from the Sahara.&nbsp; Matthias Huss of GLAMOS has taken to social media to urge global action to limit greenhouse gas emissions, and shows through dramatic graphics that it is still not too late to act. Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/stairway-to-heaven">Stairway to Heaven</a>, Sumin Bajracharya <div class="embed-block"><div><div style="left: 0; width: 100%; height: 0; position: relative; padding-bottom: 56.25%;"><iframe src="//cdn.iframe.ly/api/iframe?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fembed%2FzZ8daHVc95Q&key=87ca3314a9fa775b5c3a7726100694b0" style="top: 0; left: 0; width: 100%; height: 100%; position: absolute; border: 0;" allowfullscreen scrolling="no" allow="accelerometer *; clipboard-write *; encrypted-media *; gyroscope *; picture-in-picture *; web-share *;"></iframe></div></div></div> He writes: “If we manage to limit global warming to 1.5°C or 2°C, we can still save about a third of the volume of Alpine glaciers.” It is easier to see the change in the Alps compared to the Himalaya since the first daguerreotype of Matterhorn was made in 1849, whereas the first photographs of the north slope of Mt Everest were only taken in 1921. The photographs of the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/review/stories-of-nepal-s-summiteers">Alps</a> are shocking before-after images of receding snowlines and shrinking glaciers. In the Alps, one of the most vivid examples of glacial retreat is found in the Great Aletsch Glacier which used to be 14km long and 800m thick, once storing 20% of all the ice in the Alps.&nbsp; The Great Aletsch is visibly shorter and thinner today compared to photographs taken by the author in 1979. Alpine glaciers are not just melting, scientists say, the thaw is accelerating. Some of them have lost up to three times more ice mass just in 2022 than in the last ten years.&nbsp; Just as there are now occasional meltpools at the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/measuring-mt-everest-because-it-is-there">South Col</a> of Mt Everest, and a river runs through the Khumbu Glacier at Base Camp, in Switzerland icefalls have turned into waterfalls in just three decades.&nbsp; Scientists say that at present rates of ice loss in the Alps, Jungfraujoch on the saddle between the four-thousanders Jungfrau and Mönch will have no snow left by the end of the century.&nbsp; The Alps are older, they are more stable geologically, but since they are at a higher latitude the snowline is at 2,700m, compared to 5,000-6,000 in the Himalaya. &nbsp;&nbsp; Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/cycling-to-cop28">Cycling to COP28</a>, Shristi Karki  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2023060511068_058940232efefd33aa326e540ac1d8ad1bbcba13f112b7c55a800247c1725031.jpg" data-media-id="editor_14" data-image-id="2023060511068_058940232efefd33aa326e540ac1d8ad1bbcba13f112b7c55a800247c1725031" data-rendition-name="original" width="526" height="381" loading="lazy" alt="Alps and the Himalaya NT 3"> <figcaption>The author with backdrop of Eiger (3,967m) in 1978, and the same mountain in the same season in 2020.</figcaption> </figure>  &nbsp;&nbsp;But just as European countries downstream depend on water that originate from Alpine glaciers, nearly 2 billion people in Asia <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/the-climate-crisis-is-a-water-crisis-in-the-himalaya">rely on the water towers of the Himalaya </a>and Hindu Kush feeding rivers. As glaciers thaw in the Alps, they are exposing human remains entombed in ice. Items from an Air India Boeing 707 that crashed into Mont Blanc on approach to Geneva in 1966 have emerged in Chamonix, including newspapers, an Indian diplomatic pouch, and jewelry. &nbsp; Computer modelling at the ETH Zurich and the University of Freiburg by Matthias Huss and his team have shown that even if greenhouse emissions are capped at 1.5°C the terminus of the Great Aletsch Glacier will still lose half its volume and recede 10km from where it is now during this century. But if the global average temperature continues to rise, the glacier will be replaced by a large lake.&nbsp; Because of its location amidst some of the richest countries in the world, governments here are better placed to cope with an Alpine meltdown than countries bordering the Himalaya. The impact on skiing will be an inconvenience. Even so, a fall in water levels of the Rhine and other rivers can have serious economic consequences.&nbsp; Says ICIMOD’s Pema Gyamtsho: “Alpine ecosystems are relatively well managed as compared to the Himalayan ones. We in the Himalaya are still a long way from reaching that level of development.” &nbsp;&nbsp; Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/for-destruction-ice-is-also-great-and-will-suffice">For destruction, ice is also great and will suffice</a>, Sonia Awale

In high places

We all have that inner Tintin beckoning us to break out of our everyday routine. Our group of young architects was overwhelmed with the choice of ecologically diverse trails in Nepal. We finally decided on Tso Rolpa in the upper Rolwaling at 4,550m, one of Nepal’s biggest and most dangerous glacial lakes. The trek was not just invigorating but also a stark reminder of how the climate crisis is melting the Himalayan mountains.  <figure><img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230602090624_227339d3-3f55-4829-a8a7-faff3db68d3f.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="20230602090624_227339d3-3f55-4829-a8a7-faff3db68d3f" data-rendition-name="original" width="3024" height="4032" loading="lazy" alt="Stairway to heaven 1"></figure>  The trip started in Kathmandu on a hired Tata Sumo that promptly broke down in Kavre. Onward to Singati where the jeep had a flat tyre. Adventure in Nepal begins even before you start walking. We finally entered the Gauri Shankar Conservation Area in Chetchet (1,410m) from where the trail leads to Simigaon (2,000m). The Swiss helped make steps to make the difficult parts easier to walk and added conspicuous signage so people do not get lost.  <figure><img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230602090628_e0639ed0c5833970c8c925ead194129b71af2b4258d159e2413651449841b300.png" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="20230602090628_e0639ed0c5833970c8c925ead194129b71af2b4258d159e2413651449841b300" data-rendition-name="original" width="1098" height="669" loading="lazy" alt="Stairway to heaven map"><figcaption>Map: NT Graphics</figcaption></figure>  The Rolwaling is a beyul, a valley of spiritual significance for the local Tamang and Sherpa communities. The sky turned from blue to violet, and Gaurai Shankar, known locally as Chomo Tseringma, made a brief appearance before hiding behind its south shoulder. The storm hit on the final stretch to Simigaon at nightfall. The next day’s walk was to Thangding (3,330m) along millet terraces below towering cliffs, and crossing frothing rivers over log bridges. A lunch stop in Surmuche (2,480m) meant lying on the grass to watch fast-moving clouds shroud the surrounding mountains. The rain overtook us and turned into snow as we negotiated the last steep bit.  <figure><img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230602090628_cd234e7c-b841-479c-800e-3562faf043bc.jpg" data-media-id="editor_2" data-image-id="20230602090628_cd234e7c-b841-479c-800e-3562faf043bc" data-rendition-name="original" width="3024" height="4032" loading="lazy" alt="stairway to heaven 3"></figure>  New morning, the trail to Na village (4,180m) was covered in fresh snow. The river turned aquamarine as we approached and clambered up the terminal moraine of the Tso Rolpa glacier. Nothing prepares you for the first glimpse of the lake after cresting the moraine wall. A deep serenity envelopes its icy beauty, but also a sense of dread about what all this melted ice means.  <figure><img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230602090636_de3c0db4-9605-49f5-8bf9-200caf5be582.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="20230602090636_de3c0db4-9605-49f5-8bf9-200caf5be582" data-rendition-name="original" width="3024" height="4032" loading="lazy" alt="stairway to heaven 7"></figure>   <figure><img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230602090628_89649f1b-d2c7-44a0-8540-1251949c43ab.jpg" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="20230602090628_89649f1b-d2c7-44a0-8540-1251949c43ab" data-rendition-name="original" width="3024" height="4032" loading="lazy" alt="stairway to heaven 4"></figure>   <figure><img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230602090632_cb3d20fb-40fc-4fcd-aff7-96c268ea1d41.jpg" data-media-id="editor_5" data-image-id="20230602090632_cb3d20fb-40fc-4fcd-aff7-96c268ea1d41" data-rendition-name="original" width="3024" height="4032" loading="lazy" alt="Stairway to heaven"></figure>   <figure><img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230602090632_1021e87b10863490866a8073f991f8ff01878f55129f3e7b4ebbb8af930de50c.jpg" data-media-id="editor_6" data-image-id="20230602090632_1021e87b10863490866a8073f991f8ff01878f55129f3e7b4ebbb8af930de50c" data-rendition-name="original" width="4032" height="3024" loading="lazy" alt="stairway to heaven 6"></figure>   <figure><img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230602090636_30fb1414449aefbf86cc329f97421946401c75030f344e240f059bfda5ab07ef.jpg" data-media-id="editor_7" data-image-id="20230602090636_30fb1414449aefbf86cc329f97421946401c75030f344e240f059bfda5ab07ef" data-rendition-name="original" width="4032" height="3024" loading="lazy" alt="stairway to heaven 8"></figure>

Stairway to Heaven

· In July 2016, 18-year-old Ajit Mijar and Kalpana Parajuli got married in a Kavre village. Parajuli’s family opposed the inter-caste marriage and forced the two to annul the union. Five days later, Mijar’s body was found buried on the banks of the Trisuli in Dhading district.&nbsp; Mijar’s death was ruled a suicide, but his family has refused to perform his last rites, insisting that he was murdered for daring to marry a ‘high’ caste woman. His body has remained at the TU Teaching Hospital morgue for the past seven years. · In May 2020, the body of a 12-year-old Dalit girl was found hanging from a tree in the Rupandehi’s Devdaha village. She had been raped and murdered after being forcibly married to her rapist, an ‘upper’ caste man, the day before she was killed. · On the same day in May 2020, Nabaraj BK and his friends Ganesh Budha Magar, Tikaram Nepali, Lokendra Sunar, Govinda Shahi, and Sanju BK were lynched and their bodies dumped into the Bheri River in Soti village of Rukum West. They were killed because villagers discovered Nabaraj was going to elope with a teenage girl from a ‘higher’ Thakuri caste.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230602080648_1b79c7e8e816fbfe2c90c9b0655d0636004a1aa71774fe7b396bd3ab555890ce.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="20230602080648_1b79c7e8e816fbfe2c90c9b0655d0636004a1aa71774fe7b396bd3ab555890ce" data-rendition-name="original" width="1045" height="277" loading="lazy" alt="Dalit lives must matter 1"> <figcaption>Nabaraj BK (far left, above) and five of his friends who were killed on 23 May 2020 in Rukum West because he was eloping with a 'higher' caste teenager. </figcaption> </figure>  · In May 2022, Sundar Harijan, a 20-year-old Dalit inmate at Rolpa jail who was serving a life sentence on behalf of another prisoner died under suspicious circumstances. An investigation pointed to police corruption, but the probe yielded no further results. · In March this year, a restaurant owner in Gorkha beat 36-year-old Phulmaya Pariyar to death, because her 7-year-old daughter drank a beverage without permission. The issue was settled after the hotelier, Durga Ale, provided Pariyar’s family with financial compensation. · Last month, a 22-year-old Dalit man was injured in Simraungad when a priest poured hot rice starch over him for entering the temple. These are just a selection of <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/black-lives-matter-but-dalit-lives-dont">acts of violence against Nepal’s Dalit community </a>that made it to the news. There are many more cases that are never reported, and the lifelong oppression that Dalits face every day all over Nepal is not news. “Sadly, political turbulence, civil governance, impunity, and lack of accountability to our people have undermined the Dalit achievements, moments and people’s aspirations,” said Pradip Pariyar, founder of the Dalit Lives Matter Global Alliance during a talk last week.&nbsp; He added: “The role of social justice seems murky, foggy and lost. Nepali society is becoming more regressive in comparison to other countries. It seems like Dalits belong to the country, but not to the state.”&nbsp; The <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/caste-aside">murders of Nabaraj BK and his friends</a> in Rukum West three years ago catapulted caste-based violence to the forefront of national and political discourse in a way other atrocities against Nepal’s Dalit community had not in recent years. Read Also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/caste-aside">Caste Aside</a> But when it came to justice, all that public outrage did not seem to matter. Attempts to sweep the murders under the rug began right from the top. Home Minister Janardan Sharma from the Maoist party that once waged war for Dalit rights, claimed the deaths of the young men was not caste-related, and they had all jumped into the Bheri River.&nbsp; Sharma’s remarks were seen as an attempt to cover up the involvement of Soti ward chair and fellow Maoist Dambar Bahadur Malla, who had been arrested for involvement in the murders. Three years later, justice continues to elude the families of Nabaraj BK and his friends. The final hearing of the case is scheduled for 13 June.&nbsp; Article 40 of Nepal’s Constitution guarantees the rights of Dalits to political competition and representation, as well as basic services like education and health, but Dalit representation in politics and in the workforce is tokenism at best. Nepal’s 2021 Census results did not include information about the country’s ethnic, linguistic, and religious demographics. But the 2011 census showed that Dalits made up 13.6% of Nepal’s population (researchers say the figure could be as high as 20%) but they hold only 0.7% of senior civil service jobs. Brahmins, on the other hand, are 12.2% of the population but have 72% of senior government jobs.&nbsp; “The demand for Dalits is for an equal share in the nation’s wealth until they are equally represented at decision-making levels,” said Suraj Yengde, PhD, one of India’s leading Dalit scholars and author of Caste Matters who is in Nepal to research a new book.&nbsp; “Until the nation’s wealth is equally distributed to us, there cannot really be a truly democratic society. Minority communities cannot control the majority resources,” said Yengde, who is a research associate with the Department of African and African American Studies at Harvard University and was recently named a Senior Fellow at the Kennedy School.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230602080648_eb030586cf88143bb35562206a4ca28836820182a0509c2e0073e6eb50288a61.jpg" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="20230602080648_eb030586cf88143bb35562206a4ca28836820182a0509c2e0073e6eb50288a61" data-rendition-name="original" width="760" height="507" loading="lazy" alt="Dalit lives must matter 2"> <figcaption>A rally in Chaujhari of Rukum West demanding justice for the six slain men (Photo: Bignewskhabar)</figcaption> </figure>  “Caste is normalised in Nepal, India, and the rest of South Asia through the practice of retaining the hegemony of the historical oppressor castes who then control the resources of the state and then become the final adjudicator of the matters concerning the nation,” he added during the talk (see interview below). During local elections in May 2022, three mayors, eight deputy mayors, 143 ward chairs, and 878 ward members were elected from the Dalit community — each less than 3% of the total elected members from each category in 2017. In federal polls, there were only 16 Dalit MPs out of 275, the lowest proportion since Constituent Assembly elections in 2008. And only one of those 16 Dalit MPs was directly elected and the rest were nominated through the proportional representation system. Meanwhile, three Dalit leaders were elected to the Provincial Assembly directly, while 28 were elected through the PR system. The number of elected leaders from the Dalit community for both the federal parliament and provincial assembly is less than during the 2017 election. The Dalit Lives Matter movement gained traction in Nepal following the Rukum killings. But even as the discourse surrounding discrimination and violence against the Dalits continues, some activists want to move beyond the narrative of just being portrayed as victims of the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/news/nepal-s-caste-struggle">caste hierarchy</a> and take into account their stories of resistance to historical oppression. Read Also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/dalits-disasters-and-discrimination">Dalits, disasters and discrimination</a>, Shikhar Sharma But information about equality and representation, insight from scholars and activists, are not accessible to Dalit and non-Dalit communities in rural and remote Nepal – even though people there are more likely to be victims of caste-based discrimination and violence. It is now up to the civil society to figure out how to ensure that the message of equality, representation and resistance gets to the grassroots, said Yengde: “Dalit lives matter because our stories and our individuality matter. It is because dignity, respect, compassion, humanity, resistance, honour, and justice matters.”&nbsp; <h2>Cast light on discrimination</h2>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230602080652_73b65368a5d8e21a9f31dbdc7c2f3633927996e15e26290f55adbe985a365d97.jpg" data-media-id="editor_7" data-image-id="20230602080652_73b65368a5d8e21a9f31dbdc7c2f3633927996e15e26290f55adbe985a365d97" data-rendition-name="original" width="2492" height="1742" loading="lazy" alt="Cast light on discrimination"> </figure>  <h2> </h2> Suraj Yengde, PhD, is a leading Dalit scholar and author of the book <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Caste-Matters-Suraj-Yengde/dp/0670091227">Caste Matters</a>. He is a research associate with the Department of African and African American Studies at Harvard University and was recently named Senior Fellow at the Kennedy School. Yengde is in Nepal to work on his new book, and look at the status of Nepal’s Dalit community. Excerpts of a conversation with Nepali Times this week: Nepali Times: You have spent some time in Nepal researching your new book. What are the impressions you have gathered about exclusion and caste issues here compared to India? Suraj Yengde: I’m slightly hesitant to respond to this, simply because I have to see more of Nepal. I spent some time in Lumbini, but couldn’t really meet people from the Dalit community there. I was, however, able to meet the Gandharva people, and was so profoundly impressed with the men and women, especially of the younger generation. They were engaged in community farming using commune models similar to Dr Ambedkar’s ideals. And since community farming is something that is very close to me— it provided me insight into community life in Nepal. But this is just a take from interacting with a limited number of people, especially given that the Nepali Dalit community is so vibrant. And I will be very sincere in saying that I may not be able to do everything right because I’m not an expert on Nepal. That is why I have been relying on two things: firstly, my primary respondents who are prominently from various Dalits communities as well as experts, and secondly, recorded textual evidence that civil society has preserved. So, I think this question might merit a more elaborate response when my next book comes out. It seems casteism transcends borders and is entrenched even among the Indian and Nepali diaspora. Why is it that education does not seem to make a big enough dent against caste discrimination? Caste is basically a reproduction of the identity of a community and the resources available to it, but the normalisation of this reality is worrisome. Because Nepal is still a young country with a profoundly invested Constitution, and as such, the nation needs to be shaped with appropriate ethical standards. &nbsp; What is needed first is a respectful sharing of this nation’s wealth with all of its people. Moreover, caste unfortunately has an intricate attachment to religion. So one might be confined to the caste system without even realising it. Another reality is that the caste system is upheld when people are confined within their own caste groups because that means that they are part of a network that everyone within that caste group benefits from. As far as the diaspora goes, we need to question if the people who go beyond India and Nepal leave their roots behind during the process of assimilating to the West. And by that I mean not just their caste roots, or even national roots, but the ways of their ancestry. &nbsp; So what one might think of an innocent incident or interaction or even celebration can be in fact deeply caste-based in nature, and there needs to be an acknowledgment that whatever pride one has for such interactions or events comes with certain caste attachments. The question, therefore, is: are we taking active steps towards annihilating caste altogether? But at the same time, annihilating the caste structure does not necessarily mean you are dismantling all of your personal beliefs. How do we ensure that the message of equality, representation and resistance goes to the grassroots in countries like Nepal and India, places where people are more likely to be victims of caste violence and discrimination?&nbsp; Yes, oftentimes, the message we are trying to get across does not reach the people that they are meant for. Two things are needed to ensure that it does, and the first is the media to let the world know what is happening. We also need to figure out how to democratise information. It is also how we construct the narrative because high-flying jargon-filled academic ideas and talks and events will not go beyond a handful of people. So we need to tailor messages according to the intended receiver.&nbsp; Once people have access to sufficient information, they will have formed opinions and then comes the role of mass movements. And so it ultimately comes down to how we decentralise information and diversify the audience.&nbsp;

Dalit lives must matter

Even before Nepal’s Prime Minister Pushpa Kamal Dahal returned from a four-day official trip to India on Saturday, commentators and the social web back home had given the visit an F in his report card. Welcoming Dahal before their bilateral talks on Thursday, Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi had already declared that Dahal’s visit would be a “super-hit”. And indeed, from an Indian perspective it was. Nepal had a long wish-list of things to be sorted out during the visit, but India was not giving in on any of the really substantial ones, and most of the outcomes were cosmetic.&nbsp; Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/borderlines/nepal-pm-to-india-to-reboot-ties">Nepal PM to India to reboot ties</a>, Chandra Kishore The Nepali side has tried to highlight some of the positive achievements of the visit, but had to be satisfied with less than what it wanted.&nbsp; Nepal had demanded a 25-year energy cooperation deal with India, but Modi only verbally announced that India would procure up to 10,000MW of power from Nepal in the next ten years. The agreement on exporting only 40MW of power to Bangladesh via India was largely symbolic. The MoUs were signed in the presence of Dahal and Modi for the Lower Arun and Phukot Karnali hydropower projects (pictured below) had already got the green light in March.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230603030648_08ef06d22b8a78dff275060ab89359323f1e9d2ef12cf00b7a7d1e57a3f9975b.png" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="20230603030648_08ef06d22b8a78dff275060ab89359323f1e9d2ef12cf00b7a7d1e57a3f9975b" data-rendition-name="original" width="1776" height="1152" loading="lazy" alt="Prachanda New Delhi"> </figure>  There is criticism from commentators in Nepal that those river project agreements, the Butwal-Gorakhpur transmission line as well as the ground breaking of two more petroleum pipelines in Nepal would disproportionately benefit India. Even the building of a new integrated checkpoints in Nepalganj and Dodhara Shandani would facilitate Indian exports to Nepal.&nbsp; Building petroleum infrastructure at a time when Nepal should be focussed on meeting its 2045 net-zero decarbonisation goals appeared incongruous to many. Nepal had insisted on two-way traffic on the L626 and B345 air routes west from Kathmandu that would shorten travel time and make inbound flights to Pokhara and Bhairawa airports more attractive to international operators. But India grudgingly agreed only to lower flight level traffic eastbound on L626 below 15,000ft. This would only benefit short-haul turboprops into Nepal, and not international flights from Delhi, the Gulf or Europe. India also agreed to provide access to its air space for ILS landings at the new Bhairawa airport, but said that inbound flights on B345 could not be allowed because of security concerns of its nearby air force base in Gorakhpur. Instead of air routes, Nepal got a promise to allow the use of India’s inland waterways for transportation. And while the agreement for cross-border digital payments would make it convenient for citizens of both countries, there are misgivings about privacy issues of personal data of Nepalis.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230603030648_04dd622c8dddea5a28a52443867703af8218a2558b5170565561db9b9add8562.jpg" data-media-id="editor_2" data-image-id="20230603030648_04dd622c8dddea5a28a52443867703af8218a2558b5170565561db9b9add8562" data-rendition-name="original" width="2048" height="1536" loading="lazy" alt="Prachanda New Delhi"> <figcaption>Prime Minister Pushpa Kamal Dahal was welcomed with a classical dance performance in Delhi. Photo: RSS</figcaption> </figure>  India appears to have flatly refused to even discuss the Eminent Persons Group (EPG) report which has suggested a revision of the 1950 India-Nepal treaty that Nepalis have regarded as being asymmetric. There was also no progress on the Lipu Lek-Kalapni border dispute. However, Dahal in a meeting with Nepali editors on Friday said that he had raised Kalapani with Modi and both had agreed to find a resolution through negotiations. But he floated the controversial idea that Kalapani could be swapped with India for a road corridor across 26km of Indian territory to Bangladesh from southeast Nepal. He did not seem to know that Nepal had already secured an agreement with India’s I K Gujral government 30 years ago that allowed this corridor, which was never implemented. The Kalapani swap proposal is bound to raise nationalism hackles in Nepal. Dahal’s Delhi visit had other photo-ops that did not sit very well back in Nepal. The photograph of his daughter-private secretary Ganga Dahal sitting in during the prime minister’s meeting with India’s National Security Adviser Ajit Doval and Foreign Secretary Vinay Kwatra (and not Nepal’s foreign secretary) has been much criticised in Nepali social media.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230603030656_922355b75e4806b9f715bcf888d0dda65a41e6774bfb298fc4c758bc72e05aec.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="20230603030656_922355b75e4806b9f715bcf888d0dda65a41e6774bfb298fc4c758bc72e05aec" data-rendition-name="original" width="1399" height="788" loading="lazy" alt="Prachanda and Ganga Dahal in Delhi"> <figcaption>Indian Foreign Secretary Vinay Mohan Kwatra and Indian National Security Adviser Ajit Doval with visit Prime Minister Pushpa Kamal Dahal and his daughter Ganga Dahal in New Delhi on 31 May. Photo: RSS</figcaption> </figure>  Members of the Nepali delegation, who are not government officials but friends of ministers, taking selfies during solemn occasions like the wreath-laying at the Mahatma Gandhi memorial has also been lampooned in Nepal.&nbsp; But the most glaring contradiction was the sight of a Maoist prime minister of Nepal clad in saffron and holy thread, offering prayers at a Shiva temple in Indore (pictured below). Another photograph showed three senior Nepali cabinet ministers also in the same attire offering prayers.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230603030648_5ac04014aeeacb5be677111702fdf301083d8a8d7493dbb4b947e6630339666d.jpg" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="20230603030648_5ac04014aeeacb5be677111702fdf301083d8a8d7493dbb4b947e6630339666d" data-rendition-name="original" width="1170" height="658" loading="lazy" alt="Prachanda New Delhi"> <figcaption>Prime Minister Pushpa Kamal Dahal offering prayers at Shiva temple in Indore. Photo: BABURAM BHATTARAI/TWITTER </figcaption> </figure>  Commentators pointed out the contrasting irony of this with the Maoists assassinating Hindu priests and desecrating temples during their armed struggle in 1996-2006, and being the most aggressive proponents of making Nepal a secular republic after the peace accord. Many have said the transformation of Prachanda to Pushpa Kamal Dahal is now complete, and it is only a question of time before the Maoist Centre drops the ‘Maoist’ label from its party name.

Super-hit, or super-flop?

When 14-year-old Jamyang Jamtsho Wangchuk knocked on the door of a stranger to ask if they had a copy of the 1995 comedy Ace Ventura: When Nature Calls, he had no idea the person on the other side would make him a film star. That was in 1996, and the Bhutanese teenager was in Hong Kong on vacation. Little did he know that the person on whose door he knocked was a casting agent. The rest is geography.&nbsp; Within months, Wangchuk and his younger brother were on set shooting Jean-Jacques Annaud’s 1997 film Seven Years in Tibet, starring Brad Pitt. Chaperoned by their mother, both boys played the Dalai Lama in the movie.&nbsp; “I was honoured to get the chance,” says Wangchuk, now 41. That chance meeting eventually got Wangchuk into filmmaking in the US.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2023060209068_3cda25464ba95e1997eca79d2fd72c689af9fe824c05a4d80fe74e355f30786c.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="2023060209068_3cda25464ba95e1997eca79d2fd72c689af9fe824c05a4d80fe74e355f30786c" data-rendition-name="original" width="2250" height="3275" loading="lazy" alt="Jamyang Jamtsho Wangchuk with Brad Pitt"> <figcaption>Young Jamyang Jamtsho Wangchuk with Brad Pitt. The two actors worked together for Jean-Jacques Annaud’s 1997 film Seven Years in Tibet.</figcaption> </figure>  In 2020 during the pandemic &nbsp;Wangchuk was cooped up in a studio apartment in New York. The isolation, and a bout of Covid infection, made him reevaluate his career and place in life. He decided to cycle from Thimphu to COP28 in Dubai to draw attention to the climate crisis and how it was affecting Himalayan people. “I feel fortunate to be able to combine my love for films with my passion for sports and travel, all the while championing the environment,” says Wangchuk, who spent his early years trekking through forests in Bhutan’s Pema Gatshel district with his father.&nbsp; In 2022, Wangchuk biked for a week, nine hours every day to reach Bhutan’s Thorthomi glacial lake, where the water level has to be drained to prevent it from bursting. He filled a bottle of water from the lake, and on 2 May began the first phase of his journey from Thimphu to India. Supported by the Kathmandu-based research institute, ICIMOD, he cycled across eastern Nepal, reaching Everest Base Camp 20 days later. There he met up with 22-time Everest summiteer Lhakpa Nuru, who had collected ice from the South Col for his mission.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2023060209064_42a5130b18ca731580eedc477adaf1dea86a6b55a2de7db3c4a7fd1931bdae44.png" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="2023060209064_42a5130b18ca731580eedc477adaf1dea86a6b55a2de7db3c4a7fd1931bdae44" data-rendition-name="original" width="2048" height="1536" loading="lazy" alt="Team NT"> <figcaption>Jamyang Jamtsho Wangchuk and team on Everest Base Camp. Photo: BEN CLARK/FACEBOOK</figcaption> </figure>  &nbsp;The ice joined the water collected from the glacial lake in Bhutan on the journey to Dubai. The bike journey so far has been a 'warm up' in more ways than one. &nbsp;Last month several Asian cities recorded all-time high temperatures. The heat of the plains made Wangchuk dizzy, forcing him to make several unplanned stops. “We learned the hard way that riding in the heat and pollution can be detrimental to health,” he notes. To avoid this, he starts out early, and takes a break during the intense mid-day heat. &nbsp; Wangchuk will soon begin the second phase of his journey cycling across India and Pakistan. He has not yet figured out how to cross the Arabian Sea to Oman. &nbsp; “There will be more extreme heat to justify why I’m riding to COP28 to take the messages of &nbsp;Himalayan communities being unfairly impacted by climate change,” he says. &nbsp; Climate summits like the one in Dubai are notorious for being talkfests, and the 2023 event is being held in UAE, a country that is a major exporter of fossil fuel. Says Wangchuk: “COPs have failed to set a concrete and time-bound target to phase out all fossil fuels and meet the zero-emission vehicle sales targets. But this should not deter us from pressuring world leaders and corporations to be accountable.”

Cycling to COP28

Some 15 million people worldwide are at risk from flooding caused by glacial lakes, half of them in India, China, Pakistan and Peru, according to the latest study published in the journal Nature Communications. As the most densely populated mountain country in the world, Nepal is at higher risk. Glacial Lake Outburst Floods (GLOFs) in the Nepal Himalaya can be even more catastrophic for towns along valley floors as well as downstream infrastructure. <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/climate-smarter-himalayan-infrastructure">What happened in Melamchi </a>in July 2021 is a sign of things to come. Nepal’s largest infrastructure project to supply water to Kathmandu was nearly destroyed by a massive debris flow after a cloudburst upstream in the Langtang National Park. “What make GLOFs worse in Nepal is that they are often combined with the monsoon,” explains watershed expert Madhukar Upadhyay. “Every year we have seasonal floods. When a weakened moraine is breached, more water is added to already swollen rivers. Making matters worse is high-intensity rainfall in higher altitudes as we saw in Manang in 2022.”&nbsp; Read more: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/climate-risk-to-hydropower-investment/">Climate risk to hydropower investment</a>, Ajaya Dixit  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230602040624_e60a90be970842d53f6e236b1a59612c82aa035635a3ae4838481a31710f1446.jpg" data-media-id="editor_2" data-image-id="20230602040624_e60a90be970842d53f6e236b1a59612c82aa035635a3ae4838481a31710f1446" data-rendition-name="original" width="853" height="640" loading="lazy" alt="Melamchi amage NT"> <figcaption>The damage from a massive debris flow on the Melamchi River in June 2021 to the channel diverting water from the Melamchi to the tunnel at the project headwork. Photo: SHIVA BASKOTA</figcaption> </figure>  Scientists say that the permafrost binding loose moraine material is also melting, and without the cementing action of the ice the moraine walls can collapse easily in heavy precipitation. Rain falling where there used to be snow is making matters worse.&nbsp; <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/living-below-nepal-s-melting-mountains">The Himalaya is melting</a> faster than the global average, and even in the best-case scenario, the mountains will lose more than one-third of their ice by 2100.&nbsp; A paper published in the journal Climate and Atmospheric Science last year revealed that the rate of ice loss on the South Col of Mt Everest is shocking: what took 2,000 years to accumulate is melting in a mere 25 years.&nbsp; Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/tracing-past-glacial-floods-in-kangchenjunga/">Tracing past glacial floods in Kanchanjunga</a>, Alton C Byers  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230602040632_f3e5d9e3eb4dca842d715afab7ee68899e0fa3c0d2f9f039d9b288b1492f4955.png" data-media-id="editor_5" data-image-id="20230602040632_f3e5d9e3eb4dca842d715afab7ee68899e0fa3c0d2f9f039d9b288b1492f4955" data-rendition-name="original" width="891" height="500" loading="lazy" alt="Map"> </figure>  There are 3,252 glacial lakes in Nepal, including the Khumbu Glacier where Base Camp is now 50m lower than when Hillary and Tenzing climbed Everest<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/everest-70-years-on"> seventy years ago</a>.&nbsp; Imja was a debris covered glacier on trekking maps even 25 years ago, but is now a 2km long lake. Tso Rolpa glacial lake at 4,580m in the Rolwaling Valley has grown seven times in size in the past 60 years. “There is a lot of evidence that the number of glacier lakes in Nepal and worldwide is increasing,” says Miriam Jackson, glaciologist with the International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development (ICIMOD). “The size of existing lakes is also increasing. For example, the area of glacier lakes increased by 12% in the Kosi basin and 8% in the Gandaki basin.” The water level in Imja has been lowered by 3.4m and by 3m in Tso Rolpa at a cost of $7.2 million and $9 million respectively. Scientists now say the water level in Tso Rolpa needs to go down by another 20m to reduce risk of bursting. Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/danger-nepal-s-glacial-lakes-are-filling-up">DANGER: Nepal’s glacial lakes are filling up</a>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230602040628_4ac8ea629de0f69bfb27fe9b783f126c7eea6dcadda7e812436d393d7c21c13e.jpg" data-media-id="editor_8" data-image-id="20230602040628_4ac8ea629de0f69bfb27fe9b783f126c7eea6dcadda7e812436d393d7c21c13e" data-rendition-name="original" width="1843" height="1000" loading="lazy" alt="Imja lake NT"> <figcaption>A frozen Imja Lake looking east from the outlet. Photo: SHARAD JOSHI</figcaption> </figure>  There are other potentially dangerous lakes like Thulagi below Himalchuli, and new lakes are emerging on both sides of the Himalaya in China and Nepal that have not even been mapped. Nepal’s glaciers are shrinking three times faster than in 1998 and Jackson says that the possibility of flooding, whether from glacial lakes or other sources, is taken into account when building close to the rivers. When Nepal’s only reservoir project on the Kulekhani was commissioned in 1982, engineers had designed it to function for 100 years. But a cloudburst in the catchment area in 1993 deposited so much debris into the lake that its lifespan was reduced by 30 years. “Melamchi and Kulekhani are proof that the entire Himalayan region including Nepal are not suited for mega projects. Our focus and investment should instead be on multiple small-scale projects spread out across the country,” says watershed expert Madhukar Upadhyay. As for infrastructure already under construction, there are several mitigating measures that can be deployed, such as early warning and real-time information systems in the catchment area, not only about rainfall but GLOFs and landslide blocked rivers. Experts say Nepal and the countries in the Himalaya should not overlook the phenomenon of permafrost melting that is making the mountains and moraines much more prone to erosion. Permafrost is a thick subsurface layer of frozen soil that is generally not visible and thus harder to identify. Besides Melamchi, thawing permafrost is thought to have been partly responsible for the Chamoli disaster in the Indian Himalaya in 2021. Read also: <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=2391#.XoyO8MgzbIU">The day after tomorrow in the Himalaya</a>, Navin Singh Khadka “Generally, moraines have an ice core, which is one reason why moraine-dammed lakes are so dangerous. The ice could be hundreds or even thousands of years old and melt very slowly but the moraine is constantly settling,” explains Jackson. “Thawing permafrost makes mountains unstable, thus causing rockfalls. If there is a landslide into a glacier lake, then that could trigger a flood.” GLOFs also have a transboundary dimension since so many of Nepal’s rivers and their tributaries originate in glaciers in Tibet. Of the 47 high-risk glacial lakes in Nepal, 20 of them start in Tibet (see map, below). Mitigating measures such as artificially lowering the water level are expensive which makes cross-border early warning of GLOFs so crucial. ICIMOD has launched the Kosi Initiative with a transboundary working group collaborating with the Chengdu-based Institute of Mountain Hazards and Environment (IMHE) and others. It has also done computer modelling of flood hazard and an assessment called WeACT that integrates local knowledge with science to improve community preparedness. But GLOF risk can be reduced if vulnerable communities are aware of the danger, are given decision-making powers and have the resources to be prepared, as has been seen in Chunkung in Khumbu and Langtang, where villagers are adapting to climate change by building embankments on their own, and avoiding construction along river banks. Says Madhukar Upadhyay: “We need to strengthen our local science to better understand the geology and glaciology, make local communities and the national government aware of the dangers and take the risk into account in building settlements, hydropower plants, bridges and roads.” &nbsp; Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/human-face-of-a-himalayan-climate-crisis/">Human face of a Himalayan climate crisis</a>, Rastraraj Bhandari

For destruction, ice is also great and will suffice

Top news

It has been 22 years since the royal massacre that decimated king Birendra’s immediate family. His brother Gyanendra ascended the throne and within seven years Nepal had abolished the monarchy and turned into a federal republic. Such was the love for king Birendra that many Nepalis believe the monarchy would have survived if he was still alive.
True decentralisation and devolution of power is still a mirage in Nepal, top leaders in the main political parties are unwilling as ever to let go of power. This has made it easy for anti-federalism sentiments to grow. In fact, the royal-right RPP is trying to bring Gyanendra back as a king for the third time.&nbsp;
Excerpts from <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/issue/147">page 1</a> report 20 years ago this week on <a href="http://himalaya.socanth.cam.ac.uk/collections/journals/nepalitimes/pdf/Nepali_Times_147.pdf">issue #147 30 May – 5 June 2003</a> on the second anniversary of the massacre:
A tragedy on such a scale will leave scars on the national psyche that will never completely heal. All we can do is try to deal with the legacy, learn its lessons. The single most significant consequence of June First was that King Gyanendra became king.&nbsp;
Last year, in a candid television interview, the king told Durga Nath Sharma: "I am not like my brother, I can't sit idly by while the country sinks deeper into crisis." He appointed a cabinet of trusted political figures and technocrats, then got Col Narayan Singh Pun to forge a ceasefire with the Maoists.&nbsp;
The five parliamentary parties first went into a deep sulk, but managed to launch a united street agitation. In reality, they felt left out of the peace process, and had dark misgivings about the country being dragged back to pre-1990 days. It is a measure of how low the stock of the political parties has fallen that there hasn't been a groundswell of public support for the anti-royal agitation. But surveys (Nepali Times, #140) have shown that the people overwhelmingly reject a return to absolute monarchy as well. 
 
From archive material of Nepali Times of the past 20 years, site search: <a href="http://www.nepalitimes.com/" target="_blank">www.nepalitimes.com</a>

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