Pha Tang, the land of the marginalised people

Pha Tang, located about 90km east of Chiang Rai and on the border with Laos, was once a completely isolated mountain village. Situated atop Doi Pha Tang, a 1,653-meter mountain, it was one of the most remote and rugged areas in Thailand. 

Twenty years ago, the unpaved roads made it difficult to reach Pha Tang even with a four-wheel drive vehicle. There were no accommodations or restaurants, and the village had little contact with the outside world.

But today, things have changed beyond recognition. Well-paved roads now connect Pha Tang to the rest of the country, and the village has developed with hotels, restaurants, and coffee shops. It became known for its association with ‘Pratu Siam’, the Gate of Thailand, where the sun rises first in the country. Since then, people have begun to visit, especially during the New Year, to make wishes while watching the sunrise.

However, despite the growth of tourism, Pha Tang still appears lifeless and desolate. As the village chief, Thanaphat, explains: "We expected more tourists, but very few come unless it’s New Year. Hotels and restaurants are mostly invested in by outsiders, so they have little connection to our village, which has around 2,000 residents in 320 households. We mainly grow highland vegetables and fruits like plums.”

For those familiar with history, Pha Tang is a treasure trove. During the Cold War, it was a key frontline area for remnants of the Kuomintang (KMT) 3rd Army, 5th Army, and 1st Independent Corps. While the 3rd and 5th Armies established their headquarters at Tham Ngop and Doi Mae Salong, Pha Tang was one of the fiercest battlegrounds in modern Thai history.

In the mid-1960s, the Thai government faced increasing pressure from the Communist Party of Thailand (CPT), which had allied with the Communist Party of Laos. The CPT crossed the border and inflicted serious damage on the Thai army. Lacking experience in mountain warfare, the Thai military hired the remnants of the Kuomintang with support from the CIA. This marked the creation of the first secret mercenary force in modern Asian history.

The Battle of Pha Tang in 1968 saw about 400 remnants of the Kuomintang, disguised in civilian or Thai military uniforms, fighting against the CPT. They successfully occupied Pha Tang Mountain, but suffered heavy casualties, losing 80 men—about 20% of their forces. From then on, the 3rd and 5th Armies of the Kuomintang remnants served as anti-communist mercenaries for the Thai government until 1982, contributing to nearly 1,000 deaths. In exchange for their services, the Thai government allowed them to settle in areas like Tam Ngop, Doi Mae Salong, and Pha Tang village.

‘It was inevitable at the time, but it remains a shameful chapter in our history that we secretly employed foreign troops—remnants of the Kuomintang—on Thai soil. They made great sacrifices for our country, but unfortunately, we didn’t take enough care of them. As a soldier who fought alongside them in the anti-communist struggle, I have always felt a sense of regret,’ reflects Colonel Santi Santiwatananon, who participated in the Thai army’s operations against the communists and later wrote the book KMT in Thailand.

In his memoir, he recalls: ‘In the 1970s, we fought with a monthly salary of just 400 baht, or 20 dollars, from the Thai government. After the war, we received no support from the Thai government or our leader, Gen. Li Wen-huan, commander of the 3rd Army. He had amassed enormous wealth from the opium trade but even took the disarmament funds the Thai government gave us, keeping it for himself.’

Rotaru, a former soldier who fought across the Indochina Peninsula as a secret mercenary, voiced his frustration: “We are neither Thai nor Chinese; we are just marginalised people.” Rotaru’s 40-year anti-communist campaign, which began when he was an 11-year-old child soldier fighting against Chinese Communists in the 1950s, and continued against Laotian and Thai Communists, is now fading into history.

Over time, most of the remnants of the 3rd Army who helped build Pha Tang have disappeared. Today, the only remaining trace of the village's secret history is a small, shabby memorial hall called the ‘3rd Army 31st Command Headquarters’ located on a hill at the edge of the village.

Those who are interested in the rich, albeit troubled, history of Pha Tang can still enjoy its natural beauty. You can climb the mountain behind the village and relax while enjoying panoramic views of the Laotian plains and the mighty Mekong River valley. Alternatively, spend some time in quiet contemplation at the Wat Pha Tang temple perched on the mountain. A trip to Doi Fuh Chi Pha, located 24 km to the south, will also be a memorable experience.