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Jazz as healing music

Heads swinging in the air. Shoulders jiggling. Hands and feet taping in time with the rhythm. People humming along. This was a common sight throughout this week’s Surya Nepal Jazzmandu. The guitar, drums, piano, flute, sarangi (even tapping feet) and other musical instruments fused on stage every evening, producing soulful melodies to keep the audience warm through Kathmandu’s autumn chill. This was the 20th edition of the jazz festival which started on 24 October featuring international and national artists including the likes of Swiss-French trumpeter Erik Trufazz, Aussie Owen James Newcomb, jazz saxophonist, flamenco singer and composer Antonio Lizana, our very own Cadenza Collective and artists from the Dhrupad Gurukul in Kathmandu.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2024110104114_e35518cd86adafbd72e0bec4936baad9e81b14ebc911f71aff1d13fe2a2d5b7b.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="2024110104114_e35518cd86adafbd72e0bec4936baad9e81b14ebc911f71aff1d13fe2a2d5b7b" data-rendition-name="original" width="1656" height="1370" loading="lazy" alt="Jazzmandu 2024 NT"> </figure>  “I really like it here in Nepal, people are friendly, there is virtually no road rage,” Erik Trufazz told nepali Times during one of the parties ahead of their performances. “I have known about Jazzmandu for a while, my sound technician has been with the festival for a quite some time but only this year did everything align for me to be here too. The audience has been warm and receptive.” The annual event (except for the Covid years) first started in 2002 at the height of the Maoist insurgency with the intention of uniting people through music and simultaneously prioritising cultural interaction, music education and promoting tourism in Nepal. “The first edition was rather easy. Everything fell into place. It was as if destiny was leading the way,” says Navin Chettri, one of the founding members of Surya Nepal Jazzmandu who is also the vocalist and drummer of Nepali folk Jazz band Cadenza Collective. “What is harder is to maintain the legacy.”  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2024110104114_79936cc630c834b1d4ff1dd16d23c748ea7e3e6f6bc4e69a567b0a7de9bfa391.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="2024110104114_79936cc630c834b1d4ff1dd16d23c748ea7e3e6f6bc4e69a567b0a7de9bfa391" data-rendition-name="original" width="1261" height="1000" loading="lazy" alt="Jazzmandu 2024 NT"> </figure>  &nbsp;The jazz scene is ever-evolving and so is the festival but in the recent editions, it is clear that cultural interaction has been more prominent with the collaboration that have taken place between national and international artists. “Jazzmandu has stayed true to the essence of what it was,” says Owen James Newcomb of Australian Jazz band Afro Dizzi Act who was here for the first edition in 2002 and was back this year. Nick Aggs of the same band has been performing in Jazzmandu for the past six years, and agrees: “Kathmandu has become a fertile land for music to flourish. The cross-pollination of music that is happening here says it all.”  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20241101011124_58251b3af8fcca39887a1a772f9a59f12d9afd789bd0af8459089661dfafa6bf.jpg" data-media-id="editor_2" data-image-id="20241101011124_58251b3af8fcca39887a1a772f9a59f12d9afd789bd0af8459089661dfafa6bf" data-rendition-name="original" width="1333" height="1000" loading="lazy" alt="Jazzmandu 2024 NT"> <figcaption>Photo: PINKI RANA</figcaption> </figure>  Jazz has often been credited for embracing culture and diversity, and is known for collaborating with different genres of music. Here in Kathmandu, the festival has taken a step further to blend jazz with eastern music genres. For example this year a Spanish flamenco performer tap dances to the beat of classical Nepali tabla. “We’ve been performing jazz all over the world and the perception of jazz can be sectioned. The open mindedness people here in Kathmandu when it comes to jazz is the most exciting,” said Shannon Sol Carroll of Afro Dizzi Act speaking to Nepali Times before their &nbsp;finale at the Malla Hotel on Wednesday. The demographic of the audience is also changing. While expats and tourists still make up the majority of the audience, younger Nepalis are now a significant presence. There are others like Zoe Meister, 20, who is in Kathmandu as part of her exchange programme. The first experience has already left her wanting for more.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2024110104114_d052567ac67050ef3024b8e02e7171ba1ba480fe8df8a279ef358908d6b7dd17.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="2024110104114_d052567ac67050ef3024b8e02e7171ba1ba480fe8df8a279ef358908d6b7dd17" data-rendition-name="original" width="1486" height="966" loading="lazy" alt="Jazzmandu 2024 NT"> </figure>  Women still remain a minority in the Jazz scene globally. But this edition of Jazz Festival featured an all female band Sheroes from the US and highlighted singer Alma Naidu and her quartet from Germany and classical singer Jonisha Paudel from Nepal.&nbsp; Paudel’s high notes (shall we call it ‘ragajazz’?) underlined the amalgamation of eastern and western music. On initial hearing, the music did come off as Hindustani Classical but as the gig progressed, the sound of tabla, sitar fused with trombone and bass guitar to enhance the symbiosis. Her performance at Yalamaya Kendra on 29 October brought the house down.&nbsp; On the same day, Sheroes sang its own version of My Favourite Things from the 1965 musical The Sound of Music. Seeing the majority of women perform on the same stage made the performance even more inspiring. As the 20th edition of the jazz feast comes to an end, Chettri says, “When the younger musicians come up to me and tell me they are inspired seeing artists in our festivals, I believe we have been successful in setting up jazz culture in Kathmandu and our legacy.”  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2024110104114_4510825ab497a488fd46a9d0c0b76f76ed7e6d0772002d9d0e8f698ed988cb8f.jpg" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="2024110104114_4510825ab497a488fd46a9d0c0b76f76ed7e6d0772002d9d0e8f698ed988cb8f" data-rendition-name="original" width="1194" height="832" loading="lazy" alt="Jazzmandu 2024 NT"> </figure>  <h2>Jazzing up Gokarna</h2> The third day of Jazzmandu, dubbed Jazz Bazaar, took place at Gokarna Forest Resort. This was the longest day, starting at 3PM and running until 10 at night unlike most days of the jazz festival that happened exclusively in the evenings. The stage and the stands for food and drinks were set up in an open meadow at the expansive Gokarna Forest Resort. The stage was the first thing on the left, and the bars were set up opposite that a bit further away. Further in the area there were food stalls presumably set up by the hotel selling food like chowmein, chicken wings, and paneer pakodas. There were bonfires set up which provided quick bursts of much needed warmth in the chilly October evening. Perhaps owing to the location, the crowd seemed much younger than at most of the other days of the festival. There were many children and young adults, both Nepali and foreign. Many seemed to be tourists from South Asia, Europe, the USA, or Australia. The audience either sat in chairs or benches set up opposite the stage, or on mats on the floor right in front of the musicians.&nbsp; One of the main acts of the night was Swiss-French trumpeter Erik Trufazz and his band, a quartet also including keyboard, bass and drums. Trufazz and the band were exceptional with a strong rock element to their act and soon the audience were bobbing their heads or tapping their feet to the music. They were followed by the Antonio Lizana Quintet, spearheaded by jazz saxophonist, flamenco singer and composer Antonio Lizana. The quintet was made up of Lizana on saxophone, a guitar, a bass, drums, and a flamenco dancer. The dancing, done by a member of the five called El Mawi, provided a strong performance aspect to their set and was visually drawing. The tapping nature of the dance also added a quick rhythm on top of the drums. There was also a performance by artists from the Dhrupad Gurukul in Kathmandu. Dhrupad is an ancient Hindustani classical musical tradition characterised by ragas and swaras. The group had sitar and flute players as well as percussion, on a big two-sided Indian drum called the pakhavaj. Their music was accompanied by trippy visuals. Vishad Raj Onta

Pinki Sris Rana

East meets West at Kathmandu jazz

Right after Dasain festivities, the Surya Nepal Jazzmandu is back in town and this time it is celebrating two decades of the jazz festival. Also known as Kathmandu Jazz Festival, the annual music fest which started in 2002 will run from 24-30 October this year. Over the years, it has established itself as a premier jazz event, pioneering and cultivating the taste of jazz in Nepal.&nbsp; Much like the previous editions, the organisers aim to bring together jazz musicians of different backgrounds and origins, substantiating a platform for cultural interaction simultaneously.&nbsp; “Jazzmandu is an act of love for our city, our audiences, and for the music – and we’ve still got lots more love to give,” says Samir Chettri of Kathmandu Jazz Festival.&nbsp; This year’s five-day musical symposium features a lineup of artists celebrated from across the globe. They specialise not just in jazz but infusing it with different types of music. Eastern Classical featuring Jonisha Paudel, Santosh Bhakta, Roshan Putwar, Nimesh Kapali as well as Gandharva music are something to look forward this edition. <h2>Erik Truffaz (Switzerland)</h2>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20241023071012_ec1d5abbf4f3be74f7a3298985ff38022f3f4f54627fd8ac51294fa63f24bd0c.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="20241023071012_ec1d5abbf4f3be74f7a3298985ff38022f3f4f54627fd8ac51294fa63f24bd0c" data-rendition-name="original" width="1200" height="800" loading="lazy" alt="Erik Truffaz"> </figure>  Jazz trumpeter Erik Truffaz’s music has pushed the boundaries of what trumpet-led jazz can be. In his decade-long career, Truffaz has seamlessly blended hip hop, rock and roll and dance music with jazz. Truffaz entered into the jazz scene in the early nineties but it was the 1998 album ‘The Dawn’ that gave him his breakthrough– establishing him as a pioneering force in contemporary jazz. From recording in India on the banks of the Ganga, to collaborations with indie rockers, Truffaz has showcased his ability as a peerless all-rounder and ceaseless innovator. He has given scores to symphony orchestras, and has also written and composed music extensively for cinema.Truffaz is in the ranks of European jazz royalty, continuing to inspire a new generation of musicians and music lovers. Erik Truffaz – Trumpet | Alexis Anérilles – Keyboard | &nbsp;Marcello Giuliani – Bass | Raphael Chassin – Drums <h2>Sheroes (USA)</h2>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20241023071012_ce7ebb7d4bac391253c5cebfae761dbd2eb027df30b57579c156791d3248ca3f.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="20241023071012_ce7ebb7d4bac391253c5cebfae761dbd2eb027df30b57579c156791d3248ca3f" data-rendition-name="original" width="2560" height="1369" loading="lazy" alt="Sheroes"> </figure>  This all-female band is an anomaly in the jazz scene where women still remain underrepresented. Sheroes was the brainchild of pianist, composer and arranger Monika Herzig who wanted to bring women jazz musicians together and provide powerful role models on stage and break the lingering gender stereotypes in jazz. The band is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year. The Sheroes ensembles over time have brought together an extended network of talented women jazz musicians. Together, the musicians create music as they navigate their individual skill and style while showcasing an undeniable chemistry. Sheroes continues to elevate some of the top composers and players in jazz.&nbsp; Monica Herzig – Piano | Jamie Baum – Flute |&nbsp; Reut Regev – Trombone | Gina Schwarz – Bass |&nbsp; Rosa Avila – Drums <h2>Alma Naidu (Germany)</h2>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20241023071012_655281cecef3a041aa0abde2f66cb39deba3a323b37020ae15e01613131a1113.jpg" data-media-id="editor_2" data-image-id="20241023071012_655281cecef3a041aa0abde2f66cb39deba3a323b37020ae15e01613131a1113" data-rendition-name="original" width="2375" height="2560" loading="lazy" alt="Alma Naidu"> </figure>  Described as “one of the most promising singers on the German scene” by Süddeutsche Zeitung, a daily newspaper in Germany, Alma Naidu is a singer, composer and lyricist based in Munich. Naidu boasts an enviable collection of top prizes honouring rising German jazz artists, and has also appeared in various musical theatre and opera productions.&nbsp; Her debut album, Alma, was released in 2022 and comprised almost entirely of her own compositions and arrangements. Relatively an emerging artist among the Jazzmandu’s lineup, has previously performed across Germany, the Czech Republic and France with her touring quartet, which features her on the keys as well as vocals. Alma Naidu – Vocals and piano | Andeas Dombert – Guitar &nbsp;| Ferdinand Schwartz – Bass | Florian Stierstofer – Drums <h2>Antonio Lizana Quintet (Spain)</h2>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20241023071016_1a0138b8a158fc714b22730390d152d4782ef8480dd780d2387df350a3ab3544.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="20241023071016_1a0138b8a158fc714b22730390d152d4782ef8480dd780d2387df350a3ab3544" data-rendition-name="original" width="2560" height="1097" loading="lazy" alt="Antonio quintet"> </figure>  Antonio Lizana is a jazz saxophonist and flamenco singer and composer who has blended jazz with flamenco and is one of the most celebrated representatives of new flamenco jazz. Lizana’s quintet have performed in more than 30 countries – including at festivals in London, New York, San Francisco, Shanghai, Madrid, Barcelona and beyond – and has worked on Grammy-winning works with artists such as Arturo O’Farrill and Alejandro Sanz. Lizana’s live shows have been described as a “breathtaking journey from flamenco roots to contemporary jazz”, with his soulful lyrics carrying messages of optimism and sincerity to his audiences access the globe. Antonio Lizana – Vocals and saxophone | Adriano Lozano – Guitar and and backing vocals | Ismael Alcina – Bass and backing vocals&nbsp; | Vincent Thomas – Drums | El Mawi – Flamenco dancing and backing vocals <h2>Afro Dizzi Act (Australia)</h2>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20241023071016_473edf5ef5fdc479f0c6caf7256cecc3084aba72876ad539150693bec2301e04.jpg" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="20241023071016_473edf5ef5fdc479f0c6caf7256cecc3084aba72876ad539150693bec2301e04" data-rendition-name="original" width="1500" height="1255" loading="lazy" alt="Afro Dizzy Act"> </figure>  Born as an adventurous jam band in Brisbane in the late 1990s, Afro Dizzi Act is known to be one of the best fusion bands to ever come out of Australia, and is celebrated as one of the country’s premier festival bands. From an early sound that blended in hip-hop as well as drum and bass, the band took on influences from jazz and world music as its growing reputation took the musicians to new places, arriving at World Beat Festival that comprises a dizzying variety of musical traditions and a mind-opening global perspective.&nbsp; Afro Dizzi Act has headlined top Australian festivals such as the Big Day Out and the Byron Bay Bluesfest, performed in Dubai, toured the Northeast of India, and played at the first edition of Jazzmandu in 2002. This year, to celebrate Jazzmandu’s 20th anniversary, the band will be performing alongside Navin Chettri of the Cadenza Collective to revive early days of the annual jazz festival. Nick Aggs – Saxophone | Shannon Sol Carroll – Guitar |&nbsp; Oj Newcomb – Bass | Navin Chettri – Drums |&nbsp; Matt Ledgar – Percussions <h2>Cadenza Collective (Nepal)</h2>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20241023071016_dab2e03a9643141a4b1416a6bc00e8fea59840798b07c631a30190a93f39e7b3.jpg" data-media-id="editor_5" data-image-id="20241023071016_dab2e03a9643141a4b1416a6bc00e8fea59840798b07c631a30190a93f39e7b3" data-rendition-name="original" width="857" height="544" loading="lazy" alt="Cadenza"> </figure>  Cadenza Collective, spearheaded by drummer and composer Navin Chettri, has been blending Jazz, Afro-funk, and Nepali folk into an irresistible sound to get your groove on. Formed in 1998, Cadenza was one of the first bands to experiment with jazz in the Kathmandu Valley, at a time when rock and pop music dominated the music scene. Cadenza broke the mould and has evolved into a mature and experienced collective of musicians and music educators.&nbsp; Their music has pumped vitality into the improvised music scene in Nepal and beyond through regular performances with both classical and western musicians. With 5 albums to date showcasing their original music, their latest, Back to the Roots, won Best Pop/Rock Composition for their song “Namaste”, and Best Pop/Rock Album of the Year at the 2014 Nepal Hits FM Music Awards. Navin Chettri – Vocals and Drums | Rajat Rai – Guitar |&nbsp; Samir Chettri – Bass | InapRaj Shrestha – Tenor Sax |&nbsp; Pravin Chhetri – Alto Sax <h2>Samundra (Nepal)</h2>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20241023071016_18153f12a84a9e1cc890cad600f0ab3a519be2f563db984e984ec5251e4c7d57.jpg" data-media-id="editor_6" data-image-id="20241023071016_18153f12a84a9e1cc890cad600f0ab3a519be2f563db984e984ec5251e4c7d57" data-rendition-name="original" width="2048" height="1153" loading="lazy" alt="Samundra band"> </figure>  Samundra is a band of musicians and sarangi players known for their performances of Nepali folk fusion music. Formed in 2004, the band stays true to the age-old traditional folk music of the Gandharba community. They recompose authentic Nepali tunes in new forms, updating the cherished old music for contemporary taste. They also educate people on traditional music through their YouTube channel, making it accessible for all. Anil Gandharba also teaches how to use sarangi on their channel. This band is passionate about promoting and preserving the rich cultural heritage of Nepal through their music. Anil Gandharba - Sarangi | Arbajo Buddha Gandharba - Sarangi | Ramkrishna Gandharba - Flute/Arbajo | Samsher Gandharba - Madal | Arjun Gandharba - Madal | Raju Gandharba - Percussion <h2>Dhrupad Gurukul (Nepal)</h2>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20241023071016_ac99f1d13ac3532016a08227a7592381b03c460fc4df13b06a463059ae0fe24a.jpg" data-media-id="editor_7" data-image-id="20241023071016_ac99f1d13ac3532016a08227a7592381b03c460fc4df13b06a463059ae0fe24a" data-rendition-name="original" width="1280" height="960" loading="lazy" alt="Dhrupad Gurukul"> </figure>  <h2> </h2> Dhrupad is a form of Hindustani classical music that is distinguished by its emphasis on maintaining the purity of ragas and swaras.&nbsp; Vishal Bhattarai joined hands with his gurubhai Inoue Sou to establish Dhrupad Gurukul Kathmandu, and the duo has been performing and teaching Dhrupad in Nepal for the last decade. Their performance at Jazzmandu will be joined by the renowned pakhawaj player Mukesh Shakya, and two students currently training under the Gurukul. <h2>SCHEDULE&nbsp;</h2> Jazz for the Next Generation&nbsp; Thursday, 24 October&nbsp; 11AM- 1:30PM&nbsp; Closed Invitation&nbsp; St Xavier’s School, Jawalakhel&nbsp; Groovin’ at Upstairs Thursday, 24 October&nbsp; 7PM – 9PM&nbsp; Rs1,000 Jazz Upstairs, Lazimpat Valley Jams Friday, 25 October&nbsp; 6:30PM – 9PM Rs800 Simultaneously at:&nbsp; Jazz Upstairs, Lazimpat Electric Pagoda, Thamel Eden, Jhamsikhel La Terrasse, Chundevi Hard Rock Cafe, Durbar Marg Jazz Bazaar Saturday, 26 October 3PM – 10PM&nbsp; Rs1,600 Gokarna Forest Resort Sounds of Flamenco Jazz and Afro-Beat Monday, 28 October 7PM – 9PM Rs2,000 Lawn by Nanglo, Jhamsikhel Jazz at Patan Tuesday, 29 October&nbsp; 7PM – 9PM Rs2,000 Dhokaima Cafe, Patan Jazzmandu Finale Wednesday, 30 October 5:30PM - 10PM&nbsp; Rs1,800 The Malla Hotel, Lainchaur&nbsp;

Jazzing up the town for the 20th time

At 6 feet and one inch, Hira Bahadur Ghalan was exceptionally tall for a Nepali. In 1936, when people came to his Tamang village near Tistung looking for porters, they recruited him on the spot. This was no ordinary job, Hira Bahadur would lead gangs of 30 or more porters to carry cars bought by Rana rulers from Bhimphedi to Kathmandu.&nbsp; Those were the days when the only motorable roads in Nepal were in Kathmandu, but the capital was not connected to anywhere else by road. So, before cars could carry people, people had to carry cars. More Nepalis had carried cars than ridden in one. The porters were paid Rs5 for the job, and sometimes the Rana owners gave Hira Bahadur a Rs25 baksheesh. One of the cars his community helped carry was a 1939 Daimler Benz gifted by Adolf Hitler to King Tribhuvan to woo Nepal away from the British. The rusted dusty vehicle is now in the Narayanhiti Palace Museum.&nbsp; Hira Bahadur hauled cars for 25 years until his knees gave way, he died at age 90 eight years ago — the last surviving car porters of Nepal from Chitlang Valley.&nbsp; Hira Bahadur Ghalan had three sons and three daughters, one of them is Maila Kaji Lama, who at age 68, is a chauffeur in Kathmandu. His son, Manjil Lama is a pilot with Summit Air, flying to remote Himalayan airstrips. Three generations of one family worked in professions that followed a century of transportation history in Nepal. &nbsp; After the <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/multimedia/the-long-and-winding-road-to-india">Tribhuvan Rajpath was finished in 1957</a> and the ropeway upgraded, Hira Bahadur was out of a job. He tilled the family farm, watching trucks and buses headed to and from Kathmandu on the hairpins.&nbsp; As a child, Maila Kaji was fascinated by cars and wished one day to be able to drive one. After he failed Grade 8, he came to Kathmandu in 1975 and got a Rs20/month job at a petrol station in Maiti Devi. “I watched King Birendra’s coronation and was impressed by the glamour of Kathmandu, and decided to stay here,” Maila Kaji says.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2026041816040_a1a41e47dec8500727702f700e43af625f059043cbcd283f13b247344b3a20aa.png" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="2026041816040_a1a41e47dec8500727702f700e43af625f059043cbcd283f13b247344b3a20aa" data-rendition-name="original" width="1974" height="1608" loading="lazy" alt="car carriers"> <figcaption>Maila Kaji</figcaption> </figure>  Former minister Ramesh Nath Pandey used to bring his Volkswagen Beetle to the station, and Maila Kaji started taking care of his car. Later, he drove a Russian Jeep for former minister and geographer Harka Gurung. Along the way, he fell in love with the daughter of a Brahmin colleague, and married her. “My father back in Tistung did not approve of our inter-ethnic marriage, and not speak to me for five years,” Maila Kaji recalls. Manjil Lama grew up in Kathmandu, and did well in science in school. He had wanted to go the US to become a pilot like his friends, but was denied a visa.&nbsp; “The visa officer told him I did not earn enough,” says Maila Kaji, “so I sold some property and sent Manjil to flying school in the Philippines.”  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2026041816040_e9091162840baa6d182de2d7cc6f09e43ec9cfd9a9b6e71e7e7b14bc72da3537.png" data-media-id="editor_2" data-image-id="2026041816040_e9091162840baa6d182de2d7cc6f09e43ec9cfd9a9b6e71e7e7b14bc72da3537" data-rendition-name="original" width="1434" height="1754" loading="lazy" alt="car carriers"> <figcaption>Manjil Lama</figcaption> </figure>  After returning to Nepal, Manjil Lama now flies Let 410s of Summit Air to difficult air strips like Lukla and Simkot, and has logged over 2,000 hours. He has to go to the Czech Republic regularly for simulator training. Says Maila Kaji Lama: “My father worked hard carrying cars to raise us, I started from scratch to become a driver to support my family, and my son is now a pilot with experience in flying in the world’s toughest terrain.” &nbsp; Watch <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lvT3iTi8yw4" target="_blank">video clip from S Dillon Ripley here</a>.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260419020448_40f8b1bdaace08106ca5c24819b6e7a34fb2109a9a3ec5c6ac179b3309e686ed.png" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="20260419020448_40f8b1bdaace08106ca5c24819b6e7a34fb2109a9a3ec5c6ac179b3309e686ed" data-rendition-name="original" width="900" height="1582" loading="lazy" alt="car carriers"> </figure>

Grandfather carried cars, son drives cars, grandson flies planes

Only 70 years ago, Kathmandu was the isolated capital of a country that had no modern surface transport link with the rest of the world.&nbsp; The idea of building a road to connect Nepal with India actually first came up during the last years of the Rana regime, after the British had left India. Construction actually began in 1952, and the serpentine route took five years to complete.&nbsp; Named Tribhuvan Rajpath, after the reigning king who initiated it, the alignment was from Thankot (1,301 m) at the western edge of the Kathmandu Valley to Nagdunga, Naubise, Tistung, Palung, Daman, Sim Bhanjyang (2,504m), Lamidanda, and Bhainse.&nbsp; At Bhainse, the highway joined the existing road to Bhimphedi and it was another 31km to Hetauda and Amlekhganj. There was a railway line between Amlekhganj and Birganj.&nbsp; After regular bus and truck service from Raxaul to Kathmandu began in 1961, the entire road popularly became known as the Tribhuvan Rajpath.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2026041610044_a11b48a75c7877a0f68634f8be07d26a3f354e78ebd9adddc7d17252fddf1d1b.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="2026041610044_a11b48a75c7877a0f68634f8be07d26a3f354e78ebd9adddc7d17252fddf1d1b" data-rendition-name="original" width="4608" height="3072" loading="lazy" alt="Highways NT"> <figcaption>The village of Chitlang on the main route to Kathmandu before the Rajpath was built. In the distance is the Chandragiri ridge above Thankot. Photo: DAN EDWARDS</figcaption> </figure>  <h2>Chronology&nbsp;</h2> (Based on US State Department cables and media reports) November 1945: Gen Bahadur SJB Rana asked an American official if a road could be constructed from the Indian border to Kathmandu. Nepal wanted such a road built across the mountains after first constructing an East-West artery road in the Tarai, and the government was interested in purchasing US surplus war equipment. Gen Rana inquired if there were US firms who could conduct a survey. April 1947: The Nepal government told a US official it was important to upgrade the 20-mile trail from Bhimphedi over the mountains to the Kathmandu Valley into an all-weather road and sought an estimate from the US for doing so. May 1948: Bijaya SJB Rana informed a US official that a survey for a one-lane motor road between Kathmandu and the Tarai had been completed. The road was to follow the Bagmati River to Makwanpur, then connect at Bhimphedi with the road to Amlekhgunj. The road from Tripureswor to Bhainse along the Bagmati River and via Bhimphedi would have been about 60km. (The distance from Kathmandu on the Tribhuvan Rajpath is 122 km.)  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2026041610044_bb531baf5d73e00d2032814ac8abb86979a87d781abc066fcb984997aad930e6.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="2026041610044_bb531baf5d73e00d2032814ac8abb86979a87d781abc066fcb984997aad930e6" data-rendition-name="original" width="4608" height="3072" loading="lazy" alt="Highways NT"> <figcaption>The road climbing the hills toward its destination of Kathmandu. Photo: DAN EDWARDS</figcaption> </figure>  July 1948: The government decided to go ahead and build a motorable road from Amlekhganj to Thankot and complete it in two years. December 1948: Construction of the motor road from Kathmandu to Amlekhgunj via the Bagmati River corridor was started. April 1949: Gen Singha SJB Rana told a US official that the motor road from Kathmandu to the Tarai and the Indo-Nepal border would be completed by the spring of 1950. February 1950: Nepal sanctioned Rs300,000 to make the 6-foot-wide road from Kathmandu along the Bagmati River to Hetauda. Of this, Rs100,000 was allocated for road-building material and machinery. Subsequently, the road would be developed into a broader motorable road at a cost of Rs7.5 million. February 1952: Nepal’s budget speech noted that a plan was underway for a road between Bhainse and Kathmandu. PM Matrika Prasad Koirala laid a foundation stone near Teku for construction of the ‘Kathmandu Hetauda Roadway’.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2026041610044_e66d3b81848ec19da48be8b41cacfa8b8e2bad093719b39eda27755c9616ea9a.jpg" data-media-id="editor_2" data-image-id="2026041610044_e66d3b81848ec19da48be8b41cacfa8b8e2bad093719b39eda27755c9616ea9a" data-rendition-name="original" width="4608" height="3072" loading="lazy" alt="Highways NT"> <figcaption>Rajpath winding its way north of Bhainse. Photo: DAN EDWARDS</figcaption> </figure>  February 1952: A party of Indian engineers came to Nepal to determine the best route for a road from Raxaul to Kathmandu. March 1952: Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru told Parliament: “So far as India’s security is concerned, we consider the Himalayan mountains as our border.” Ministry of External Affairs official (S.N. Hakar) told a US official that the Indian government was willing to proceed with constructing the Raxaul-Kathmandu road and had sent a survey party to determine the most suitable mountain route. May 1952: Swiss experts had made surveys for a proposed new road between Bhimphedi and Thankot. Nepal government requested financial help to build the road, and India was considering the project.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2026041610044_35e390c1a4812f45af7892d681230e04c63727d9006b6614ed79aaa7c22c1ece.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="2026041610044_35e390c1a4812f45af7892d681230e04c63727d9006b6614ed79aaa7c22c1ece" data-rendition-name="original" width="4608" height="3072" loading="lazy" alt="Highways NT"> <figcaption>With a constant stream of trucks, buses and jeeps, the narrow Rajpath once was Nepal's busiest highway. Photo: DAN EDWARDS</figcaption> </figure>  Summer 1952: Work on a new road was at a standstill, so Nepal asked India for assistance. Indian engineers surveyed two routes: one following the Bagmati River, the other road through Daman that was later adopted. July 1952: Nepal’s Ministry of Planning decided to construct a road between Kathmandu and Raxaul, awaiting Cabinet approval soon. Prime Minister Matrika Koirala said the proposed road was longer than necessary, but it was a better route ‘for strategic reasons’, because it did not require many bridges. August 1952: King Tribhuvan said road construction from Kathmandu to Bhimphedi would “begin soon”. September 1952: An Indian Military Team began construction of the Kathmandu-Bhainse road without a formal agreement being signed with the Nepal government.&nbsp; February 1953: The Indian Ambassador said the road would be hard surfaced within a year. September 1953: Prime Minister Matrika Koirala inspected the completion of a ‘jeepable track’. December 1953: The road was named ‘Tribhuvan Rajpath’. April 1954: Reports circulated that Swiss engineers criticised the alignment, arguing it would have been easier, faster, and cheaper to build over the existing foot trail between Bhimphedi and Thankot through Kulekhani. July 1954: Heavy monsoon rain damaged much of the roadway that had been built.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2026041610044_b5b2a1833f1366e532f1629f47c124d877df7b6f8a34b6c83f6c21ec3e4415dd.jpg" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="2026041610044_b5b2a1833f1366e532f1629f47c124d877df7b6f8a34b6c83f6c21ec3e4415dd" data-rendition-name="original" width="855" height="1123" loading="lazy" alt="Highways NT"> <figcaption>Crown Prince Mahendra inspecting construction progress on the Tribhuvan Rajpath in October 1954. Photo: ROYAL PALACE</figcaption> </figure>  November 1954: The Indian ambassador said flood damage was so great that the road would be delayed by two years. May 1955: Twenty military trucks brought rice from Amlekhganj to Kathmandu on the Tribhuvan Rajpath. King Tribhuvan died in Zurich. December 1956: A gravel road was completed, with trucks and buses plying between Amlekhganj and Kathmandu. December 1956: Nepal government abolished regulations that required Nepali nationals to carry permits for travel within Nepal, except for women below the age of 45. 1957: Reduction in price of goods carried to Kathmandu by truck: Sugar, Rs0.13 per kg. Wheat flour Rs0.13 per kg. Kerosene Rs0.25 per litre. February 1957: An article in The Motherland newspaper in Kathmandu noted urgent action was needed to avoid Kathmandu being cut off from the Tarai during the monsoon. The correspondent wrote, ‘In a recent journey from Amlekhganj I found that almost all the bridges are in a very bad state…Now, because of the dry rivers the scores of vehicles that ply the road cross the rivers on the water level. But during monsoons… these rivers will be impossible to cross without bridges. On the road itself, landslides and big holes have made the journey a great undertaking.” April 1957: The first regular passenger bus left Amlekhganj at 12:30PM and arrived in Kathmandu completing a journey of 14 hours.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2026041610044_60807e067f2d0b80bdc5e59860e9bc240b495ef606efc9301ef54ea5731d42df.jpg" data-media-id="editor_5" data-image-id="2026041610044_60807e067f2d0b80bdc5e59860e9bc240b495ef606efc9301ef54ea5731d42df" data-rendition-name="original" width="5211" height="4000" loading="lazy" alt="Highways NT"> <figcaption>Daman, one of the highest points on the Rajpath, often saw snow in winter. Photo: DAN EDWARDS</figcaption> </figure>   <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2026041610044_baac4747267c751ab7b0e5ef24697fb5001c4c55e04a82d92c89282bd01a325c.jpg" data-media-id="editor_6" data-image-id="2026041610044_baac4747267c751ab7b0e5ef24697fb5001c4c55e04a82d92c89282bd01a325c" data-rendition-name="original" width="648" height="960" loading="lazy" alt="Highways NT"> <figcaption>Travelers could view the Himalayas from a view tower at Daman. Photo: DAN EDWARDS</figcaption> </figure>  June 1957: Eight thousand Nepali workers and about 500 Indian Army personnel were at work on the road.&nbsp; 30 June 1957: India officially handed the road over to Nepal. India had spent INR32.5 million on the project.&nbsp; January 1958: The road from Amlekhganj to Bhainse was upgraded. July 1961: The gravel road from Raxaul to Birganj was blacktopped. Trucks began transporting goods from Raxaul directly to Kathmandu, avoiding the need for transshipment from train to truck in Amlekhganj, or use the ropeway from Bhimphedi. 1961: Passengers could travel from Raxaul to Kathmandu in a day, whereas it took a week by train to Amlekhganj, bus to Bhimphedi and then on foot. September 1962: Nepal’s 3-Year Plan aimed at broadening and black-topping the road between Bhainse and Raxaul, bypassing the Chure tunnel, and constructing several bridges along the route. 1963: Travelers going to Kathmandu by land: Road, 158,000, Nepal Government Railway, 66,500. Railway passenger service ended in June 1965.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2026041610044_2a95eb144dad74271a0fa3a27fab6b45bbab0a1c4be59d21120ad14c08e258fd.jpg" data-media-id="editor_7" data-image-id="2026041610044_2a95eb144dad74271a0fa3a27fab6b45bbab0a1c4be59d21120ad14c08e258fd" data-rendition-name="original" width="2048" height="1344" loading="lazy" alt="Highways NT"> <figcaption>A bus providing ‘deluxe service’ in 1963 is ready to leave Amlekhganj for Kathmandu. Note the railway tracks of the Nepal Government Railway. Photo: RON ELLIOTT</figcaption> </figure>   <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2026041610044_d02013692e84d6add7a6e0ce66c2b552cd53bb084db2aa8df0593bbcf84c2c04.jpg" data-media-id="editor_8" data-image-id="2026041610044_d02013692e84d6add7a6e0ce66c2b552cd53bb084db2aa8df0593bbcf84c2c04" data-rendition-name="original" width="2048" height="1352" loading="lazy" alt="Highways NT"> <figcaption>Vehicles found it difficult to pass on many parts of the Rajpath in 1963. Photo: RON ELLIOTT</figcaption> </figure>  1965: Tribhuvan Highway was considered a useful addition to Nepal’s economic infrastructure, but it could not act as a prime mover in the nation’s economic development. It did play a major role in the 1960s in transporting material and equipment needed to implement development projects in the Kathmandu Valley. September 1966: Nepal took over maintenance of the Tribhuvan Rajpath from the Indian Aid Mission.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2026041610044_5488ba1e92f6395ff882392ccbaef2270622632682eccb412d8de7b128f6f397.jpg" data-media-id="editor_9" data-image-id="2026041610044_5488ba1e92f6395ff882392ccbaef2270622632682eccb412d8de7b128f6f397" data-rendition-name="original" width="1764" height="1184" loading="lazy" alt="Highways NT"> <figcaption>Trees still lined the Rajpath near Thankot in 1967. Photo: DAN EDWARDS</figcaption> </figure>  1971: A UN-Nepal study said the best alignment for an alternative road was from Kathmandu, Pharping, Kulekhani, Bhimphedi to Bhainse. 1975: Nepal's Department of Roads’ engineer concluded: ‘The Tribhuvan Rajpath has been built without design speed consideration… The pavement was not constructed to any designed standard… irrespective of quality of material, and later the road was black topped without consideration of traffic intensity and load-bearing capacity of sub-base… utilisation of low-quality material in the Bhainse-Thankot section… Quality control was neither maintained in Bhainse-Thankot nor the Bhainse-Raxaul section. Local materials were used irrespective of their quality to complete the work in the earliest possible time and in the cheapest possible manner. Brick work was done in negligible quantity. Cement used was ordinary portland cement…’ &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2026041610044_26c74f45991efb3dc29d616e8acafb3163661ae6573c5314538e59c54d5ca0a5.jpg" data-media-id="editor_10" data-image-id="2026041610044_26c74f45991efb3dc29d616e8acafb3163661ae6573c5314538e59c54d5ca0a5" data-rendition-name="original" width="2368" height="1365" loading="lazy" alt="Highways NT"> <figcaption>Bhainse in 2017. The road divided here, one going to Bhimphedi on the right, the main road proceeding to Kathmandu on the left. Photo: DAN EDWARDS</figcaption> </figure>   <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260416100416_4d9321abf4d912796842fe963a493501e1aceff462300ecdd9bd5e0b8ba7f294.jpg" data-media-id="editor_11" data-image-id="20260416100416_4d9321abf4d912796842fe963a493501e1aceff462300ecdd9bd5e0b8ba7f294" data-rendition-name="original" width="649" height="1667" loading="lazy" alt="Highway info NT"> </figure>  Even 70 years after it was built, there is still speculation about India's security concerns vis-a-vis China, and how Indian Army engineers purposely made the road longer than it needed to be over the 2,500 Sim Bhanjyang pass instead of following the river route.&nbsp; There is also some evidence that although the Rana regime had first requested the US for help with the highway, Nehru did not want the Americans involved in Nepal. Which is why the Tribhuvan Highway became an Indian military project.&nbsp; There was similar concern from India about the Kodari Highway linking Kathmandu to China, and King Mahednra is famously supposed to have said: "Communism will not come here in a taxi."&nbsp; Geopolitics still affects Nepal's strategic highways. After decades, links to China are still rough and often blocked. Kathmandu-Tarai Fast Track is delayed by years, and not expected to be completed during this decade. Trucks and buses still bypass the Tribuvan Highway with a 200km detour via Mugling because the other alternative routes like the Tika Bhairav or Chhaimale routes are not suitable for heavy vehicles.&nbsp; The shortcut through Chitlang that the Swiss proposed in the 1950s is still too difficult. And a 25km section of the Japanese-built BP Highway to the eastern Tarai has been knocked out by the 202 flood. Dan Edwards was a Peace Corps volunteer in 1966 and is the author of several books on Nepal. This is the fourth instalment in a new limited series in Nepali Times on the historic transportation infrastructures of Nepal.

The long and winding road to India

Nepalis are insured but not covered

The series Nepal Made profiles Nepali products and the people who make them possible. Named after the mythical bird-like creature, GarudX is Nepal’s first precision manufacturer of UAV platforms. They offer a wide range of drone products and services. Last month, GarudX won first place at the US-Nepal Startup Weekend Challenge, a three-day accelerator-style program that gathered 25 of Nepal’s most promising early-stage companies. These include custom drones, cinematography, virtual tours, first-person-view (FPV), drone racing, 3D reconstruction, ground control software, and drone light shows. “I think they liked that we pitched the company as a Drone Enterprise System, as a company providing large-scale, integrated drone services,” says Dipawoli Malla, an AI software engineer with GarudX. The company sees a lot of potential in AI-based aerial computer vision, which is already used for infrastructure planning and land surveys, and could be vital in tracking wildlife poachers and assisting search and rescue during disasters. “Our vision for the company has always been to be the one stop solution for every drone problem,” says GarudX CEO Avash Thapa, who also oversees video production. Drones have gained high profile in the past five years due to their widespread adoption in war. While they do work with the Nepali army, GarudX wants to focus on the idea of drone for good. For Nepal, the potential is great for civilian applications especially because of the country’s terrain. Past efforts have been experimental, like a project to deliver tuberculosis treatment in Piuthan in 2019, and for wildlife censuses in Chitwan. Journalists now regularly use drone footage to get a bird’s-eye view for investigative stories on illegal sand-mining or delays in infrastructure projects. Drones were vital during the GenZ protests last September, in which aerial videos provided clues about what actually happened when the crowd surged towards Parliament. They also captured the dramatic aftermath of the destruction of government buildings featured in this paper. “A lot of people do not know or appreciate that drones are also made in Nepal,” notes Malla. “We export a lot of technology as software. It is a big achievement that we can also export hardware.” GarudX was informally started and active on social media since 2018, and officially registered as GarudX Multipurpose in 2024. Founder and Managing Director Adarsha Raj Bhusal had experience working with robotics and FPV drones when he launched the company, as an engineering group interested in custom-built high-performance aerial robotics. “I design our products,” says Bhusal. “We send designs to China where they are manufactured as individual parts. Costs are low when importing from China. Then we assemble and sell them here. It's a system that works well for us.” Among the UAVs GarudX makes include the Skyreaper, which is a long-range drone with advanced obstacle sensing; the GX8 Pyro which is Nepal’s first cinema-grade cinelifter; and the Aether Zoom which is a 4K UAV camera designed for tactical, industrial, or reconnaissance missions.  <figure><img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260417150440_d9f36b32e0b4d65dedded3e705aa7bf8769fd72417fc53669e77ce7a32f8ccd1.webp" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="20260417150440_d9f36b32e0b4d65dedded3e705aa7bf8769fd72417fc53669e77ce7a32f8ccd1" data-rendition-name="original" width="960" height="1280" loading="lazy" alt="garudx"></figure>  NO CERTIFICATION The main obstacle to GarudX's growth has been the lack of a national certification system. Permits to use drones are convoluted and require applications to various government agencies. “We miss out on so many international projects, for national park footage for example, since there is no way to get our drones registered — even after the army thoroughly checks our craft,” says Adarsha Raj Bhusal. GarudX says it now has the capacity to export its drones overseas at competitive prices, but Nepal does not have a registration system in place. “We can’t legally ship them,” says Avaya Pokharel, Chief Operating Officer who oversees service and repairs. With a new RSP government in place with an ambitious blueprint for digitisation, things could soon change. Relevant bodies are the Home Ministry, the Civil Aviation Authority and the Ministry of Defence because of privacy, aviation safety and national security issues. “There are meetings going on, and there is hope that progress will be made. Of course we want certification to be easy, but it is hard for the government as they have to understand the technology and what is coming in future,” says Bhusal. Legislation could look like a Remote ID system to register every drone. It could also specify pilot verification, placing limitations on what a pilot can do based on their skill level. It could also look at revising drone policies in the capital. Most of Kathmandu Valley is technically a no-fly zone for drones at present because of the concentration of government buildings, army bases and the international airport flight path. To comply with current regulations, GarudX has focused on lightweight FPV drones: small, nimble craft that can be maneuvered at high speed in tight spaces, operated by a pilot wearing immersive goggles. This results in exciting fast-paced footage, particularly useful for clients like Redbull or vehicle companies. “It feels like you are flying,” testifies Bhusal, who has flown FPV for commercials and movies, and ranks way ahead of runner ups in drone races. His work can be seen @adars_fpv on Instagram. The company has built a community of FPV drone racers, and is working with the government to certify it as a sports competition. It holds race events at colleges in Kathmandu and also consults for FPV events in in India.  <figure><img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260417150440_43b27b1b6890e47028c5e780c2ed0147a057f625d9d551221ddbd504dc03a356.png" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="20260417150440_43b27b1b6890e47028c5e780c2ed0147a057f625d9d551221ddbd504dc03a356" data-rendition-name="original" width="923" height="619" loading="lazy" alt="garudx"></figure>  MULTIPURPOSE Drones can be versatile tools, but they are particularly helpful in Nepal and the Himalaya. Powerful drones have been used for the last two years to transport ropes and ladders up Mt Everest to reduce the dangers on the Khumbu Icefall, and to bring trash down. If scaled with many pilots and drones, this could be a complete solution to the Everest trash problem while massively reducing risk to human lives. GarudX has also tested its products in the mountains. A recent blog entry on their website is titled, ‘Flying at 6,120m: What We Learned Testing Drones on Lobuche Peak’. They document the process of using different battery tricks and propellers to see what combination allows for more flight time in the thin, cold air. It is refreshing to see a Nepali company making such progress in a unique industry while also documenting advances.