My first thought as I sidled into the Nepal Army Auditorium was, ‘this place is surely more suited to Pakistani pop than French jazz’. Or was it…
This one’s a real tuckaway, and perhaps one that deserves to remain so, if only for the continued patronage of those who’ve discovered it…
A good martini, it seems, makes an impression. Even better if a curl of citrus is suspended in the clear waters, tantalisingly calling to you.…
The following evening, plans for a Nepali New Year’s do obliterated by the mere thought of hundreds of loutish youths padding through the gallis…
Unseriously, I am considering going vegetarian for the most pathetic reason possible – in the wake of a flurry of luncheons and dinners across…
Narayanghat is little more than a highway town, and a weekend on its outskirts, skirting the Narayani River, left me with few impressions of the…
Lest conscientious readers imagine I’ve been dawdling by the Trishuli these past six months, well, it’s not so. But I’ll pick up where I left…
The Durbar Squares of the Kathmandu Valley - Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur - are so captivating one could forgive the tourists for sighing…
Finally, a bar that lives up to its name. Moksh has always been a notch or two clear of what tired Thamel has to offer, and has long been a…
A steaming summer weekend in Kurintar’s Riverside Springs Resort on the flip side of the standard lunch stop-over enroute to a trek in Pokhara,…
A lazy Saturday afternoon eased past in Bishalnagar and my hopes of hauling friends laden with wives and chiles upto a bhatti in hilltop…
Wunjala Moskva, the ‘garden restaurant in the heart of the city’, had long been a mystery to me. A Newari-Russian eatery seemed a conceit too…
At Indira Gandhi International Airport a while back, I wondered how it was almost all the tourists headed to Kathmandu were ready-pressed and…
Day 5 – Naamche Bazaar to Dhole Having dispatched my sister back to Lukla with Nir Kumar, I was on my own again, and happily so. As much as I…
Day 9 – Thore to Phortse I halted at a twist just above Phortse, walked out onto an outcrop and plonked myself down. Just for the view and all…
A walk about town earlier this year on the sixth day of the southern strikes that closed the Valley down, snapping posters of…
A limber out of the dustbowl across the river from Dhapakhel led us to Nagdaha, another body of water surrounded by low terraces of green and…
Listing to interminable, reactionary rambles on the quagmire of Nepali politics, I sit shrouded in my own darkness, list in the flickering…
A conversation overhead (as I stopped, amused, opposite the tailor's shop off New Road where, in big bold white on red a sign sums up in English…
Millennia have washed past since Manjushree cleft the valley with his flaming sword but it was only last winter I made my way to Chobhar,…
Fresh from the Gokyo trail, alternating between explications of myself (to bemused locals) and my country (to curious phareners), the latter…
