The Battlefield of the Sibling War

Vali: My brother Sugriva stole the kingdom. What is my crime? Even if I have wronged my brother, you have no right to kill me. I helped you rescue your wife Sita from the clutches of Ravana, the king of the Rakshas, and your father, King Dasharatha, helped our father, King Indra, in the battle against the Rakshas.

Rama: You should treat your brother Sugriva as a son. Even if he errs, you must forgive him. He promised to respect your life. Sugriva received the power to punish evil from King Bharata. You lost your kingdom after fighting Mayavi, and now you are no longer a king.

This dialogue between King Vali of Kishkindha and his younger brother Sugriva, just before Vali’s death at the hands of Rama, an avatar of the Hindu god Vishnu, is from the Hindu epic Ramayana which is deeply influenced traditional Asian culture and art, teaching lessons about reconciliation and the essence of life.

In Thailand, it is told as ‘Pali Son Nong (Pali teaches his younger brother) in the Ramakian, the Thai version of the Ramayana. This story introduces us to Ban Lom Klao, the site of a sibling-like conflict between Thailand and Laos.

Ban Lom Klao is not a typical tourist destination. It requires not only a keen interest in history but also an adventurous spirit. Ban Lom Klao is not equipped with famous tourist attractions, accommodations, or restaurants. It is a military border zone, and the people here may view strangers with suspicion.

Upon arrival, the Border Patrol Police camp near the village has paramilitary soldiers who may offer coffee and bananas. Once identity is checked, they will be more than willing to assist.

Suan Phutsasak is a beautiful botanical garden located atop the 1,000m Lom Klao hill and the only accommodation in the area, offering a peaceful stay surrounded by nature. There are breathtaking sunrises and sunsets over the mountain ranges that form the border between Thailand and Laos.

To get there, travel east from Phitsanulok, following Route 1237 towards the Laos border. After passing through Chat Trakan, you will reach the Ban Theot Chat junction, where things start to feel tense. Here, you’ll encounter checkpoints and barricades, and the military presence becomes much stronger.

Continue south for another 10 km on the rough mountain road 1268 to enter Ban Lom Klao. This area was the site of the Thai-Laotian Border War, which took place from December 1987 to February 1988. It was the only full-scale war in modern Southeast Asia where two neighbouring countries fought each other using fighter jets.

During the conflict, Thailand deployed 3,000 troops, including four battalions of regular soldiers under the 3rd Army Command, and 10 companies of Thahan Phran (paramilitary border guards). It mobilised heavy weapons such as 155mm field guns and F-4 fighter jets. On the opposing side, Laos sent 1,000 troops, armed with 130mm guns that had a range of 35 km.

For two months, the area saw fierce fighting, with Thai and Laotian flags alternating on the battlefield each night. Over 1,000 casualties were reported on both sides. In the aftermath of the war, the two countries agreed to establish a 3km demilitarised zone between Lom Klao and Hill 1428 in Laos. This left a lingering territorial dispute that remains unresolved to this day, with 44 sq km still contested.

The historical relationship between Thailand and Laos goes back centuries, with the two kingdoms intertwined since the 15th century. The Khorat Plateau, which is now part of Thailand’s northeastern region (Isan), was once part of the Lanxang Kingdom of Laos. This area became a point of contention in the 19th century when the Rattanakosin Kingdom of Thailand annexed Isan.

In 1826, Anouvong, the last king of the Kingdom of Vientiane (Laos), led an unsuccessful war to reclaim the region, which ultimately solidified Thailand’s control over Isan.

After the Franco-Siamese War (1893), Thailand and France divided Laos into separate territories, with Thailand taking the Khorat Plateau. The Isan people, who shared linguistic, cultural, and ethnic ties with Laos, were divided by the Mekong River, which now separated Thailand to the west from Laos to the east. Despite this division, the strong sense of kinship between the people of Isan and Laos has persisted.

The relationship between Thailand and Laos, however, became more complicated in the 20th century. After Laos gained independence in 1953, it aligned with Vietnam, and relations between the two countries worsened. In the 1960s, the Communist Party of Thailand (CPT), supported by Laos, engaged in armed struggles that further strained ties. The border area, including Lom Klao, became a key location for the CPT’s operations, which eventually led to the Thai-Laotian Border War in 1987.

The roots of this war can be traced back to a series of border skirmishes in 1983-1984, particularly over three villages: Ban Mai, Ban Sawang, and Ban Klang, located 60 km north of Lom Klao. Thailand claimed these villages as part of Uttaradit Province, while Laos insisted they were part of Sainyabuli Province.

The two countries had previously shown little interest in the mountainous region, but in 1979, Laos sent troops to drive out CPT guerrillas who had taken refuge there. The Lao government’s decision to evict the CPT, supported by China, aggravated tensions with Thailand, which had aligned itself with China during the Cold War. In 1983, Thailand declared territorial sovereignty over the area and began constructing roads.

The dispute over this region led to Lom Klao becoming a frontline village. Today, the area between Hill 105 on the Thai side and Hill 1248 on the Laotian side remains a demilitarized zone. Access is restricted, and visitors can only enter with special permission. 

If you're lucky, you might be able to visit Hill 105, located 16 km from Lom Klao village along a rugged mountain path. But to do so, you’ll need authorisation from the village chief and a guide who is familiar with the area, possibly even a former guerrilla fighter.

Lom Klao, a place marked by both historical conflict and natural beauty, offers a unique glimpse into a turbulent past. However, it serves as a reminder of the complexities of national borders and the enduring legacies of war.