<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181152/636be9a79c7e80680e0878d1jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="995" height="659"/><figcaption>Photo: NEWS MEDICAL LIFE SCIENCES</figcaption></figure>As a physician, I am at the receiving end of a lot of questions from friends and relatives about the pandemic. While some want to know about their symptoms, most questions are about <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/why-nepals-covid-19-figures-are-deceptive/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">whether the number of cases in Nepal is actually going down</a>.It is hard to tell. There a lack of tracing, testing is inadequate, and record keeping is unreliable. The media carries a daily tally that is based on government figures, and they show confirmed cases have now dipped to below 1,000 per day, almost half of them in Kathmandu Valley.The Ministry of Health statistics also show that there are about 250 patients in critical care, and some 50 of them require ventilator support. If these figures are to be believed, the death rate from Covid-19 does not seem to have decreased.More worrying are reports that <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/bala-chaturdashi-and-covid/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pashupatinath now sees 80 cremations daily</a> as opposed to 30 per day at this time last year. Are some of these unidentified Covid-19 ‘excess mortality’? It is all guess work, but this more than double increase in funerals needs to be accounted for.It is indeed possible that although some of the excess mortality is due to undiagnosed Covid-19, it could very well be that the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/covid-19-will-get-worse-before-it-gets-better/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">winter death rate</a> has gone up this year because people with other pre-existing conditions like cancer, cardio-vascular diseases, diabetes or kidney patients needing dialysis are not visiting hospitals for treatment. These ‘indirect’ Covid-19 deaths could be a useful research project.Despite this, there are indications that young urban Nepalis are letting their guard down. The parties during the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/tying-the-knot-during-covid-19/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">wedding season</a>, unmasked crowds at Thamel’s indoor nightclubs and concerts and the throngs in Pokhara Lakeside and Sauraha show a <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/concerts-rallies-and-crowded-malls/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">‘what will be will be’ attitude</a>.An affordable and effective vaccine is still some way off. Wearing a mask, preferably a N95, which serves the dual purpose of protection from SARS-CoV-2 as well as Kathmandu’s air pollution, maintaining safe distance and frequent had washing with soap and water are our ‘vaccines’ for now.Japan has important lessons for us. So far, it has kept Covid-19 death rate at the lowest by far among G7 countries by strictly following guidelines including avoiding the ‘san-mitsu’ or the 3Cs: closed spaces, crowded spaces and close contact settings.<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/nepal-must-hope-for-the-best-prepare-for-the-worst/">We in Nepal will be lucky</a> if a <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/when-will-nepals-covid-vaccine-turn-come/">vaccination</a> arrives by mid-2021. Current vaccines like Pfizer and Moderna are out of the question because of their cost and the lack of capacity to maintain the very cold storage that they require.The <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/glimmers-of-hope-for-nepal-on-vaccine/">Oxford University Astra Zeneca vaccine</a> that the <a href="https://www.deccanherald.com/national/serum-institute-of-indias-covid-19-vaccine-not-to-get-nod-till-uk-authorises-astrazeneca-shot-931200.html">Serum Institute of India</a> is manufacturing appears to be our best bet because it is relatively inexpensive and only requires the regular 3-6o Celsius cold chain. The good news is that the Serum Institute of India is also studying other vaccines such as an <a href="https://www.livemint.com/companies/people/intra-nasal-covid-19-vaccines-will-be-far-easier-to-deliver-kiran-mazumdar-shaw-11603681291099.html">intra-nasal vaccine</a>, which can be stored at room temperature. If effective, this would be the answer for countries like Nepal.We are awaiting published results of trials of the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/nepal-to-test-covid-19-test-kits-from-china/">Chinese</a> vaccine, and that could also be the answer for developing countries like <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/90-in-poor-countries-will-miss-covid-vaccinations/">like Nepal</a>. The Chinese have an impressive track record of making vaccines, and to combat infectious diseases. For example, the inexpensive <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/mosquitoes-move-up-mountains-as-the-earth-warms/">Japanese Encephalitis</a> vaccine made in Chengdu helped control the deadly disease in rural communities throughout Asia.This Chengdu vaccine cost less than $5, in contrast to the $100 per shot encephalitis vaccines made by Western pharmaceutical companies. The Chinese <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=18079">Hepatitis E vaccine</a> could prevent infection and save lives of pregnant women in the Subcontinent where the virus is a scourge due to poor hygiene.TherapiesAside from vaccines, research into treatment of Covid-19 is also making progress. For example, the Recovery Trial in the UK has convincingly showed that dexamethasone, a readily available and inexpensive steroid saves lives in the treatment of moderate to severe Covid-19 patients.In all this confusion regarding treatment, however, it is equally important to note what does not work. Drugs like hydroxychloroquin do not work in the treatment of this disease, despite its false efficacy touted by Donald Trump. The <a href="https://www.who.int/nepal">World Health Organisation</a>’s Solidarity research also showed that the expensive remdesivir drug that our government was at one time handing out freely to Covid-19 patients is not very helpful, either.Reliable diagnosis of Covid-19 is important, especially in countries like Nepal as there are many other infectious diseases that may at first present with fever and cough, like tuberculosis. The PCR (polymerase chain reaction) test still remains the gold standard for Covid-19, but they are expensive and may take a day or two for the results.Antigen tests are being carried out in Nepal and can give a quick diagnosis in symptomatic individuals within 30 minutes. But they are not as accurate as the PCRs. There are other commercial brands, and some may not be as accurate as others.New variantNews of the new variant of Covid-19 reported in England and South Africa and now spreading across the globe, sound alarming. It is interesting that this new variant was discovered in the UK where a great emphasis is given to finding its chemical constituents.One of UK’s prime institutions for this is the Sanger Centre near Cambridge, with whom we at Patan Hospital also collaborated to delineate a variant of typhoid organism mutation, helping establish a new treatment strategy for typhoid in the Subcontinent in 2016.The best way to handle the new Covid-19 variant is <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/a-covid-19-exit-strategy-for-nepal/">continued vigilance</a> about preventive measures, especially since the mutation gives the virus the ability to spread faster. It is best to be over-prepared than under-prepared to fight this wily virus.Masking up, safe distance and hand washing are our best course of action for us to stop the pandemic in 2021 and beyond.<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/what-is-novel-about-the-novel-coronavirus/">Buddha Basnyat</a> is a clinical researcher at Patan Academy of Health Sciences and writes Dhanvantari, a <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/what-is-novel-about-the-novel-coronavirus/">frequent health column</a> for Nepali Times.

Buddha Basnyat

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Staying safe in 2021 and beyond

<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109141112/636ba78d9c7e80680e07378djpeg.jpg" alt="" width="957" height="638"/><figcaption>Photo: BIKRAM RAI</figcaption></figure>The Nepal Health Research Council has decided to allow international researchers to conduct Covid-19 vaccine trials in the country as part of a global effort to stop the virus. However, this is not a panacea, and an exit strategy from this pandemic should not just include vaccines.Vaccines may or may not work, and their immunity rates will vary. Other methods for tackling SARS-CoV-2 need to include diagnostics and therapeutics.DiagnosisAt present the definitive diagnosis is made by a cumbersome and sophisticated RT- PCR (Reverse Transcription Polymerase Chain Reaction) with a sample taken from the back of the mouth or naso-pharynx.More user-friendly tests need to be made available soon if we are to make testing easier and more prevalent. Scientists are trying to see if saliva samples can replace the awkward oral or nasopharyngeal swab samples.Ideal would be a RDT (Rapid Diagnostic Test) like a dip stick test, similar to what is available for pregnancy that does not require well-trained technicians and can be performed at home. This is easier said than done, but scientists are feverishly (pun intended) working on trying to make a much simpler test than PCRs available now.If a diagnosis using RDT is promptly and accurately made available in large quantities, it will be easier to decide who to isolate, and hence inhibit transmission of the virus – the main tenet of Covid-19 control.In addition, the importance of prompt testing is underlined by the fact that as the Nepali winter approaches there will be influenza and other viruses which may be mixed up with SARS-CoV-2, leading to unending confusion about who to isolate if tests are not easily available.In Nepal we know all to well the consequences of a wrong diagnosis, using RDTs such as the Widal Test to diagnose typhoid fever. Post-2015 earthquake in Nepal, many false-positive Widal Tests lead to treatment for typhoid fever when the patient in reality had typhus fever, a totally different disease which required a different antibiotic. As a result, the typhus fever was not controlled, sometimes with fatal consequences.TherapeuticsTreatments make up the other important exit strategy to rid the world of the pandemic. If a single, effective treatment (none exists so far) is found, it will not only help the index patient but also mitigate transmission of SARS-CoV-2.In terms of treatment research, randomised controlled trials (RCTs) are much more reliable and superior to observational studies of patient treatment as bias can lead to incorrect conclusions. In addition a large sample size, RCTs may be able to give a definitive answer.The importance of a proper sample size is illustrated by this example. Chinese doctors in Wuhan did such a good job in controlling Covid-19 that when they performed RCTs on Covid-19 patients using Remdesivir (an expensive antiviral drug, now available in Nepal ) in their hospital, they ran out of patients to study and did not have a large enough sample size to arrive at a definitive conclusion.Subsequently other groups studied Remdesivir and showed that it cut down the days (not mortality) in hospital for the sick patient. It was a spot of good luck that the largest (9,000 patients) randomised trial in for Covid-19 from the UK (the Recovery Trial) showed that the cheap steroid, Dexamethasone, although not a silver bullet, significantly decreased mortality in patients requiring oxygen.In the treatment of Covid-19, cost effectiveness will be an even more important factor for countries like Nepal. Ventilators may be important, but they are the last resort. Worldwide up to 90 % of Covid-19 patients on ventilators succumb to their illness because their condition is already so serious when they are attached to the machines.In this part of the world where a functioning arterial blood gas machine to help with the ventilator settings and other technical issues like availability of adequate oxygen are already potential problems, getting ventilators to work properly may also be an issue.The Covid-19 pandemic is a saga, it is a marathon not a 100 metre sprint. It will be important to be psychologically ready for the long-haul with this virus until at least one of the strategies -- vaccine, diagnostics or therapeutics -- works well.Luck is obviously going to play a big part in all of this, including serendipitous findings of which there is a history in medical research. Remember Alexander Fleming’s accidental discovery of penicillin?The good news is that the best scientific minds in the world are devoting all their time and energy in finding a way out. There is a lot of punditry and advice floating about, but most of it is at best guess work because this is a very wily virus.The <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/nepal-must-hope-for-the-best-prepare-for-the-worst/" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/nepal-must-hope-for-the-best-prepare-for-the-worst/&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1598421240339000&amp;usg=AFQjCNH0zvBSZMMLSQvc5kYtRhr_xwj7_Q">Nepal government has got its work cut out</a> with the surge of the past month, it has to monitor the situation closely with the mantra of test, isolate and treat – as well as listen carefully to scientific facts, not rumours.Frequent hand washing is probably as important as distancing and wearing a mask, and adequate soap and water has to be provided including in quarantine areas. The government should not pretend the situation is getting better as it did when it <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/nepal-ends-covid-19-lockdown/" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/nepal-ends-covid-19-lockdown/&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1598421240339000&amp;usg=AFQjCNHvrS-j-Z63qT-h62KmHeFUPcysYg">lifted the lockdown on 21 July</a>. It is better to be over-prepared than under-prepared with periods of on-and-off lockdowns in the coming months.<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/what-is-novel-about-the-novel-coronavirus/" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/what-is-novel-about-the-novel-coronavirus/&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1598421240339000&amp;usg=AFQjCNGHix4rBrAx8vz_0a47HkcVdlKHWg">Buddha Basnyat</a> is a clinical researcher at Patan Academy of Health Sciences and a <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/what-is-novel-about-the-novel-coronavirus/" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/what-is-novel-about-the-novel-coronavirus/&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1598421240339000&amp;usg=AFQjCNGHix4rBrAx8vz_0a47HkcVdlKHWg">frequent health columnist</a> for Nepali Times.

A Covid-19 exit strategy for Nepal

Fenerbahçe Beko won the Turkish Airlines EuroLeague finals in Abu Dhabi, held 23-25 May, defeating Monaco 81-70 in the final. Olympiacos, who defeated Panathinaikos 97-93, finished the series in third place. The Most Valuable Player (MVP) of the final match, Nigel Hayes-Davis from Fenerbahçe Beko, received a prize of 1,000,000 Miles&amp;Smiles from Turkish Airlines’ Chief Commercial Officer Ahmet Olmuştur. The carrier has been the title sponsor of the Turkish Airlines EuroLeague, a top tier tournament, since 2010.

Turkish Basketball

Thousands of Nepali students dreaming of an American education have been forced to look elsewhere as the Trump administration’s visa restrictions make their future uncertain.
The US was long considered a top destination for higher studies, making Nepal the 10th biggest country of origin for international students in America.&nbsp;
However, that number has seen a significant decline with the total for Nepali students now at 16,482. Some 8,000 Nepali students obtained no-objection certificates to study in the US from the Ministry of Education in the past year.&nbsp;
India, Australia, Canada, South Korea, United Kingdom and Japan are the other popular destinations for Nepali students. There are no clear numbers for Nepalis going to India, but a slight decline was noted this year after the deaths of two female students.
The US State Department has issued a circular to its embassies not to issue new visas to applicants until further notice. US Secretary of State Marco Rubio in the directive stated that the department planned to expand the screening of applicants' social media.&nbsp;
While new applicants are barred including those applying for visitor visas, students with scheduled interviews are allowed to proceed.
“Many of our students are affected by the new restrictions, but those who had applied for student visas earlier have got interview dates,” one Kathmandu-based college counsellor told us.
Meanwhile, even foreign students with spotless records already in the US have not been spared, as visa scrutiny intensifies under the new policy. In a move that underscores the growing sense of insecurity, many US colleges advised international students to carry their passports and documents at all times, even when traveling locally.
“Me and my friends did not go home this summer because we were not sure we would be allowed back, so we just went to Niagara Falls,” said a Nepali undergrad in Ohio, who like many interviewed for this report did not want her name used for fear of repercussion.
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Nepali students have adopted a cautious stance, with many choosing not to return home during summer vacation due to fear of visa revocations as well as travel bans. Meanwhile, over 7,000 Nepalis with Temporary Protected Status (TPS) will have to come back to Nepal by 5 August or face deportation. Thirty-seven were flown back to Kathmandu on Omni Air last week.
“The US is one of the most sought-after destinations for higher education, and the ban will definitely impact bright students,” says Narottam Aryal of the King’s College in Kathmandu.
Indeed, Nepali undergraduates admitted into Ivy League colleges for the 2025 academic year have been asked to look for alternatives. The entire Fulbright Foreign Scholarships Board resigned on Wednesday citing interference from the Trump administration on the selection of this year’s cohort. Some Nepali students already on Fulbright scholarships have noted disruptions, delays and even cancellation of stipends.&nbsp;
The student visa restrictions were initially just for foreign students admitted to Harvard University, but it was later extended to all Chinese students and now to all students. Universities like Columbia which actively recruit foreign students, face sharp enrolment declines, threatening their financial stability and diversity.
An Indian female PhD candidate at Columbia University had her visa revoked by the US State Department, and said she was targeted on the basis of her social media posts on Israeli military attacks in Gaza. Social media vetting of political activism has raised concerns about privacy and freedom of expression in a country where such rights were a given.
Many students have been informed via email that their visas have been revoked for getting speeding or parking tickets, but even others with no criminal record have been affected. The fear of deportation looms large amongst international students, including those from Nepal.&nbsp;
For most Nepalis who migrate to the US for education, the journey is a high-stakes investment. They come largely from middle-class families, often rely on a patchwork of scholarships, work-study programs, loans, or even the sale of family assets to afford fees.
Most Nepali students pursue STEM subjects which offer extended Optional Practical Training (OPT) periods that help fund their education. But with the US backsliding on education and humanitarian matters, countries like the UK and Canada are becoming more attractive despite their own recent stricter controls on student visas.&nbsp;
The UK universities saw a 63% rise in Nepali students’ admissions in 2024. Japan is another popular destination with 64,816 Nepali students enrolled as of 2024.
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Already, China, Hong Kong and Malaysia are poised to benefit from the increased scrutiny of US student visas. Several Hong Kong universities are offering unconditional admission to affected students, while Malaysian institutions are targeting previously US-bound Asian students. China and India have 330,000 and 280,000 students respectively in America, but the numbers for China have seen a sharp drop in the past year.
Elsewhere, branch campuses of American institutions such as NYU in Abu Dhabi, Georgetown in Dubai and Northwestern in Doha are getting more admission applications, and universities in the Gulf region are expanding infrastructure to accommodate those who would otherwise have gone to the US.&nbsp;
Even educational institutions in Nepal are hopeful that the US visa restrictions can be an opportunity to at least keep Nepali undergrads in Nepal, and also attract foreign students from the region.&nbsp;
“Many students might choose to complete their undergraduate degree here in Nepal and then move abroad for their Master’s degree later,” says Aryal of King’s College. “There was a need for quality higher education in Nepal anyway in terms of innovation and opportunities, so this could be the time to reduce our dependence on other countries.”
Nepal’s strategic position between India and China makes it sensitive to US policy shifts. India, a key ally, is also under US scrutiny for potential student travel restrictions. Chinese universities are already offering more scholarships to Nepali talent to capitalise on the US retreat.
American universities have challenged student visa restrictions in the courts. A federal court in Boston revoked the blanket ban on Harvard, and the State Department has ordered the resumption of processing student and exchange visitor visas.&nbsp;
Some are still hoping that President Trump will backtrack on the student visa restrictions, just like he has done with many of his more drastic executive orders.
Even so, the visa see-saw and longer-term uncertainties about living in the United States and its education system means students across the world are making alternative plans.
Says Aryal: “Policies of foreign countries change according to their needs, so excessive dependence was never a good idea. We should work to create different opportunities and choices of higher education within Nepal, so students are retained.” &nbsp;

America no longer prime destination for Nepali students

While Nepal was hosting the Sagarmatha Sambaad international climate conference in Kathmandu this month, on Mt Everest it was pretty much business as usual.&nbsp; The signs of climate breakdown are all there: a river now runs through Base Camp in summer, the Khumbu Icefall is more unstable, and there are more &nbsp;frequent avalanches. When expeditions arrived in March, the mountains were bare: it had not snowed since September, but then blizzards dumped unseasonal snow in May. And despite climate worries, such is the pull of Himalayan mountaineering that the Everest Industry showed no signs of slowdown. More than 600 international climbers and their Nepali guides had made it to the summit of the world’s highest mountain. At one point there were an estimated 2,000 people in the tent city on the Khumbu Glacier. All the ropes and ladders on the Icefall came down on Thursday, marking the official end of the spring climbing season, and just in time to avoid a monsoon cyclone approaching from the Bay of Bengal. It has been an action-packed season. One factor could be that Everest fees will go up from September: each foreign climber needs to pay a $15,000 royalty, up from the present $11,000. The cost for a Nepali climber on the South Col route will also go up: from Rs75,000 to Rs150,000.&nbsp; The fee to climb Everest in autumn is $7,500 (up from $5,500), but most climbers still prefer spring. Winter permit fee (December-February) is only $3,750 per person and the mountain is now also open for monsoon (June-August) climbs, when the fee is ever lower at $2,750. The revised rule also makes it mandatory for every two climbers on an 8,000m peak to hire one Nepali mountain guide.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2025053004050_67f856fe52714e4bdcf21ae7d45c6f18c82117b9d0a5f73ed1efa04c96de1046.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="2025053004050_67f856fe52714e4bdcf21ae7d45c6f18c82117b9d0a5f73ed1efa04c96de1046" data-rendition-name="original" width="931" height="732" loading="lazy" alt="The Everest Industry graph 1"> </figure>  In addition, climbers also have to pay for porters and guides, equipment, Base Camp costs, Ice Fall and fixed rope team fees, so climbing Everest does not come cheap. But such is the draw of climbing the world’s highest peak that some say the increased fees will not diminish the crowds next year. The government has tried to spread expeditions out to other seasons and other 8,000ers, but with not much success. Earlier this year, Nepal unilaterally increased the number of 8,000m peaks to 14 by adding six more sub-summits to broaden the choice for climbers. Added were: Yalung Kang (8,505m), Yalung Kang West (8,077m) &nbsp;Kangchenjunga Central (8,473m), Kangchenjunga South (8,476m), Lhotse Middle (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,400m).&nbsp; The announcement could go against the accepted topographic criteria that a stand alone peak has to be at least 300m higher than an adjoining prominence, and at more than 3km isolation from it. The UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) still recognises only 14 mountains as eight-thousanders, and only eight of those are in Nepal, or on the border with China. Nepal’s revised mountaineering regulations also increased the insurance coverage of high-altitude workers to protect porters and high altitude guides who usually take more risks on the mountains. Rescue teams and clean-up campaigners to collect trash and remove bodies of dead climbers up to Camp IV of Mt Everest do not need permits.&nbsp; The Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee is now using drones to fly down trash in 20kg sacks. Each climber is also required to bring down at least 6kg of waste and not just their own, but this rule is erratically enforced. With five fatalities on Everest and Lhotse, Spring 2025 had a historically low death toll. Another five climbers died on Annapurna, Kangchenjunga and Makalu.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2025053004050_38681de22f0fefb6faa12b01755566d09c5064d0ff84e12ccc7b5d68ea9ba38a.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="2025053004050_38681de22f0fefb6faa12b01755566d09c5064d0ff84e12ccc7b5d68ea9ba38a" data-rendition-name="original" width="665" height="740" loading="lazy" alt="The Everest industry graph 2"> </figure>  Journalist Ben Ayers who ran the Everest Live social media channel from Everest Base Camp with daily updates credited the low death rate to dramatic rescues of climbers from the ‘Death Zone’ by their Nepali guides and longline helievacs — the visuals all uploaded on YouTube.&nbsp; “Ironically, this perception of safety is bringing more and more inexperienced climbers to the mountain, and they need more rescues,” Ayers said in one of his dispatches.&nbsp; American expedition chronicler and summiteer Alan Arnette suspects there is a lot of under-reporting given that the jet stream and storms were lashing Everest even till late in the season. He told us: “I heard a lot about frostbite and rescues that were not made public. It’s become practically impossible to cover the details on Everest. All the teams report nice news, and they don’t talk about bad stuff to avoid hurting businesses.” Although trash on Nepal’s mountains makes headlines, what does not receive as much attention is the climate impact of so many expeditions. The Sagarmatha Sambaad conference sidestepped this issue, which is ironic given that the impact of climate breakdown is most evident on Himalayan peaks and their glaciers.&nbsp; <h2>Need for Speed</h2> The big stories this year have been about speed-running from their home cities to the top of Everest. Ukrainian entrepreneur Andrew Ushakov flew out of JFK on 15 May at 10:15AM Nepal time, and was on the summit 3 days, 23 hours, and 7 minutes later on 19 May at 9:22AM.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250601080640_1c5cc6fc991307861768f07037ed9d30930fb20f35dbb57dc31c9a92a9e1a885.jpg" data-media-id="editor_2" data-image-id="20250601080640_1c5cc6fc991307861768f07037ed9d30930fb20f35dbb57dc31c9a92a9e1a885" data-rendition-name="original" width="1440" height="1800" loading="lazy" alt="The Everest Industry"> <figcaption>Andrew Ushakov at the summt. Photo: ELITE EXPED</figcaption> </figure>  “I could never find the time for the traditional 40-50 days of acclimatisation,” Ushakov explained matter-of-factly. His ‘Everest Sea-to-Summit’ climb was possible because he spent 400 hours in hypoxic sleep tents over the past four years in New York. However, Ushakov did use ropes already fixed, hired four Nepali guides, helicoptered to Base Camp, and used much more oxygen than an average climber. And after the climb, Ushakov was arrested at Kathmandu airport for being in possession of $20,000 of undeclared cash and spent a night in jail and fined $60,000.&nbsp; The other speedsters were Garth Miller, Alastair Cairns, Anthony Stazicker, and Kev Godlington, all former British Army commandos. They left London and summited five days later on 21 May, and flew right back. They also used hypoxic tents to simulate the thin air high on Everest.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250601080644_90c8dd5cc07b4b43f2989b1dc0c0650ab80f10ebb06680c25a6909c519957bd8.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="20250601080644_90c8dd5cc07b4b43f2989b1dc0c0650ab80f10ebb06680c25a6909c519957bd8" data-rendition-name="original" width="810" height="668" loading="lazy" alt="The Everest Industry "> <figcaption>All four members of the Furtenbach team at the summit. Photo: Sandro Gromen-Hayes</figcaption> </figure>  But more controversial was their use of xenon gas therapy in a German hospital to ramp up the production of oxygen-carrying haemoglobins in their blood. Xenon is banned by the World Anti-Doping Agency for being performance enhancing in sports. Expedition leader Lukas Furtenbach said this rule does not apply to mountaineering, as it is not a regulated sport like swimming. Nepal has no rules about xenon, but the Department of Tourism said it was launching an ‘investigation’ to decide on future policy since it is difficult to ban xenon, but allow oxygen. The controversy has also divided the mountaineering community, with some climbers saying they just want to maximise their chances of survival. Spending less time on the mountain could make climbing safer by reducing avalanche risk. It would also mean less trash on the mountains, but it would reduce the income of Nepal’s expedition industry. It is also unclear how much of the success was due to xenon therapy and whether the ex-special forces were already in good physical shape.&nbsp; The need for speed hides the fact that climbing in the Himalaya is dangerous business, and climbers cannot sprint to the top just by huffing xenon. But ultra-fast climbs could be charged more, and the revenue generated can be used to establish state-of-the-art rescue operations, and increase pay and insurance for guides. Two other speed chasers this season were Swiss-Ecuadorian Karl Egloff and American Tyler Andrews, both on Everest without oxygen. Andrews choppered to Base Camp to catch a weather window, but turned back from 8,500m due to high winds. Heavy snow and wind also forced Egloff to descend from 7,000m. Slow and steady climbers like Anja Blacha from Germany did make it to the summit without oxygen, while Kami Rita Sherpa broke his own record with his 31st Everest summit as he led a 26-strong Indian Army group. There were 468 permits issued for foreign climbers from 48 expeditions to Everest this spring. Nepal’s other eight-thousanders together had only 17 expeditions. Nepal has more than 1,000 peaks above 6,000m, and has opened only 476 of them for climbing.&nbsp;

The Everest Industry

While Nepal marked <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/mt-everest-pvt-ltd">Mt Everest</a> Day on 29 May, on the other side of the planet in the US state of Colorado dozens of Nepalis who have climbed the world’s highest peak multiple times were busy working as chefs and Uber drivers. Among them is Nima Doma Sherpa, who climbed Mt Everest in 2019 after her husband Tshering Wangchu was among 16 crushed by an avalanche on <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/on-thin-ice-in-the-khumbu">the Khumbu Icefall</a> five years earlier. A large serac broke off the West Shoulder of <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/the-everest-industry">Mt Everest </a>and fell directly on a group of <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/more-porters-sick-on-everest-trail">porters and guides</a> making their way up the Icefall at 5,800m. Their bodies were flown by helicopter to Khumjung where Tshering Wangchu was born. He was excited about climbing Mt Everest for the first time.&nbsp; In Khumjung, Nima Doma felt like her own life had also ended. This was the kind of news Sherpa wives, mothers and sisters dreaded every <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/peak-climbing-season-2025-s4abrxny">mountaineering season</a>. She stayed home for more than two years grieving, but ultimately gathered up all her emotional strength to take care of her 6-year-old son and 3-year-old daughter. Nima had grown up in Khumjung hearing <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/review/stories-of-nepal-s-summiteers">tales of adventure on the mountains </a>from their father, Ang Chubi Sherpa who had climbed Everest in 1993. He used to bring her and her sisters and brother European chocolates after every expedition, and used to tell them that the chocolate bars grew on the mountains. “It was only after we got older did we realise that he told us that chocolates grew in the mountains so we would not worry about him putting himself in harm's way,” Nima Doma recalled with a faraway look at her home in Boulder this week. Nima went to the school that <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/commemorating-edmund-hillary-in-nepal,4145">Edmund Hillary</a> opened in Khumjung till Grade 8, and then dropped out to help in the kitchen and <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/when-yaks-go-so-does-culture">tend yaks</a>. She was married off to Tshering Wangchu, who was also a high altitude guide. When Tshering went on expeditions, Nima also started working as a porter from Namche to Base Camp. It was perhaps her father’s tales of mountains of chocolates that had always attracted her to <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/knowing-our-mountains-43v4iyvo">the peaks</a>. After her husband was killed ten years ago this month, being a widow with children was not easy for Nima Doma. But she was not alone: there were at least 200 single mothers in <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/khumbu-since-1950-jaww4qn0">the Khumbu</a>, and 20 of them just in Khumjung whose husbands had been killed in <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/nation/tragic-start-to-himalayan-spring-nepal,3695">mountaineering accidents</a>. Some were not even 20 years old, and had children growing up without fathers. But there were also women in the 50s whose husbands had been killed in the 1980s. Nima found sponsors for her children’s education, and moved to Kathmandu. In the capital, Sherpa widows used to meet to help each other. Some of them had joined the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) training for rock and ice climbing. “I decided that it was no use sitting home and crying anymore, after meeting other single mothers I felt less alone,” remembers Nima, who joined the Juniper Foundation and enrolled in an NMA training camp in Manang. There she climbed Chulu East (6,584m) and met Furadiki Sherpa, whose rope-fixing husband had also been <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/on-mt-everest-s-70th-records-and-fatalities">killed on Everest</a> in 2013. They set themselves the goal of climbing Everest one day, and started a fund-raising drive.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250530090544_621be0724b9182c8e3594b2c562a71ec32ac01d985a71d0cf31646de9d51e15a.png" data-media-id="editor_12" data-image-id="20250530090544_621be0724b9182c8e3594b2c562a71ec32ac01d985a71d0cf31646de9d51e15a" data-rendition-name="original" width="2678" height="1274" loading="lazy" alt="Everest summiteers find new life in the US"> </figure>  “We decided we had to overcome society’s stigma of <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/nation/widows-personal-happiness-comes-last-in-face-of-social-financial-hardships,1855">widowhood</a> and prove that <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/remembering-junko-tabei">women could also climb mountains</a>,” Nima said, adding that she was inspired by Nepal’s first woman Everest summiteer Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, who died during her descent in 1993. Nima Doma and Furdiki climbed the technically-difficult Ama Dablam (6,812m) and then arrived at Everest Base Camp in April 2019 as part of their Two Widows Expedition with the motto, ‘So Can We’. While climbing up the Icefall Nima passed the spot where her husband had been killed. It was a jumble of constantly-shifting ice blocks bigger than houses. She closed her eyes and said a prayer. “I remember thinking, this is so difficult and dangerous. This is what my husband had to do to support our family,” Nima Doma said. “I was determined to fulfil my husband’s dream of climbing Chomolungma, and to prove to ourselves that we two women could do it.” It was 23 May 2019 when <a href="https://www.reuters.com/article/world/two-sherpa-widows-scale-everest-and-smash-stigma-idUSKCN1SU0MV/" target="_blank">Nima and Furdiki stepped on the summit</a> and looked over into Tibet, and down at Tengboche Monastery to the south.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250530090544_6b822582b5d88ba5e972db084f184690b40653c6efd9901b2dd082ffba2a263b.png" data-media-id="editor_16" data-image-id="20250530090544_6b822582b5d88ba5e972db084f184690b40653c6efd9901b2dd082ffba2a263b" data-rendition-name="original" width="2700" height="1522" loading="lazy" alt="Everest summiteers find new life in the US"> </figure>  Nima Doma hugged Furdiki, took off her mask and wept. But for the first time in five years, it was not from grief but relief — relief for being free of all the sadness and sacrifices and for fulfilling her husband’s dream. They had found <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/life-after-death">life after death</a>. “I felt this immense joy to be on top of the world, it was indescribable,” Nima Doma said, “I have wept only twice in my life. Once when my husband died, and once there on top of Everest.” The tears had frozen on Nima Doma’s cheeks, as she and Furdiki headed back down the mountain.

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