<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022111413118/637230129c7e80680e0c2549jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2250" height="1501"/><figcaption>Retired General Gaurav Rana went on the 50km Kathmandu Kora Cycle Jatra despite being on chemotherapy . Photo: KTMKora</figcaption></figure>As former Chief of Army Staff of Nepal Army, Gen Gaurav Rana is more used to riding 4WDs and helicopters to remote parts of the country. No one expected to see him at Patan Darbar Square last week being flagged off in this year’s #KoraCycleJatra.Rana, age 66, is a bicycling aficionado, but what makes his participation in the gruelling 50km Kathmandu Kora even more remarkable is that he is being treated for a malignancy, and had his latest chemotherapy treatment just a week before the ride.The general defied expectations and illness at the 16 July event, even beating his own mileage from past years.“I want to keep a positive frame of mind, so I set Kora as my goal and worked toward it,” Rana told us. “My doctor said it was okay to exercise, and told me to lead a normal life.”<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022111413118/637230159c7e80680e0c254ajpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1283" height="611"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>Rana comes from an illustrious family of military officers, and began cycling in his childhood. He found similarities between his love of adventure sports, like mountain biking, and his military career.Rana served as Chief of Army Staff from 2012-2015, when he instituted a policy that all officers should avoid using vehicles on Fridays — and to bike or walk instead both to maintain physical training and reduce reliance on fuel.While some people may look down on cycling as a lesser form of transport, Rana wanted to be an example, riding a Nepali-assembled bicycle to work.“When I started cycling to work, people were saying, ‘Oh, if the chief can ride, why can’t we?’ It slowly picked up in popularity,” Rana recalls.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022111413118/637230189c7e80680e0c254bjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1848" height="1233"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>The general was impressed by the turnout at this year’s #KoraCycleJatra as thousands of cyclists gathered at Patan Darbar Square for the 50, 75, and 100km routes. As he pushed through the race’s challenges in spite of his cancer diagnosis, Rana noticed the community-focused atmosphere of this year’s Kora.The Kathmandu Kora bicycling event is the brainchild of ethical tourism entrepreneur Raj Gyawali and a young British volunteer to raise money for Samata School. The first ride was organised in 2011 with just 35 cyclists.This year’s event saw over 3,000 registered riders with parallel Kora events being held in different parts of Nepal, as well as abroad. Gyawali hopes that the Kora can be a message for others facing illness to fight back against depression.Throughout the race, Gaurav Rana and fellow cyclists supported and encouraged each other. He says, “It was tough — the sun was out all day and the weather was scorching. It was very challenging but also extremely rewarding. I had such a sense of achievement.”<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022111413118/6372301c9c7e80680e0c254cjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="750" height="1000"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>Beyond the sense of meeting a shared challenge, Rana was struck by the number of young cycling enthusiasts and how the sport has developed in Nepal in recent years. Whereas five years ago, many participants used worn down bicycles with patched up tyres, this year’s ride featured more brand new bikes of all makes than ever before, even electric bikes.“I was very impressed looking at the variety of bikes,” says Rana. “Today, cyclists are more professional and understand their equipment better than in previous years.”Pre-Covid Koras have also seen the participation of organisations supporting cancer survivors. In 2019, the Richa Bajimaya Memorial Foundation took part to raise money for breast cancer screening for patients through the rally.Says Rana: “I had put the Kora as my target. Everyone knew about my treatment, but I wanted to show that having cancer need not change your quest for adventure. You have to go on with your life and enjoy every moment.”<h3>Circumambulating Kathmandu</h3>When Raj Gyawali organised the very first Kathmandu Kora in 2011 with a young British volunteer, there were only 35 cyclists who raised money  for charity.In the past decade, the Kora has never abandoned its dedication to help the under-served in society while instilling a spirit of adventure in young Nepalis.It is a measure of how much the sport has grown in popularity that there were more than 3,000 registered riders on 16 July.Unlike a traditional race, cyclists push themselves to complete whichever challenge is best for them.“It’s not a rally, it’s a ride,” says Gyawali, explaining the Kora challenge’s goal of bringing Kathmandu’s cycling community together.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022111413118/6372301f9c7e80680e0c254djpeg.jpg" alt="" width="750" height="563"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>Not only are the bicycle varieties growing in number, but the Kora challenge itself is spreading. There are now 50 or 60 locations in Nepal, including Pokhara, Biratnagar, Birgunj, Nepalganj, Surkhet, Hetuada and even Jumla. This year over 300 cyclists joined Bhaktapur’s first official Kora challenge, compared to only 30 last year.The Kora Jatra was also held on the same day this year in Singapore and in Geneva, and enthusiasts are picking up the challenge next year in cities in Australia and Europe.Each year, Kathmandu’s Kora  grows in popularity and numbers of cyclists. Now, the ride fills Kathmandu's streets each year with thousands of bicycle-lovers, including inspirational figures and celebrities.Gyawali’s goal is to make it a community event, and keep the cycle challenge accessible to all, whether they are athletes, actors, students, children, or former army chiefs.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022111413118/637230219c7e80680e0c254ejpeg.jpg" alt="" width="4032" height="3024"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>“This is a fun ride. There is no other agenda. The pure agenda is building community and being festive,” says Gyawali. He explains that to cyclists, the Kora challenge acts as its own jatra, with entire communities coming together in a wider festival. By now, locals know the route, which is the same each year, and offer special discounts.The Kathmandu Kora follows a clockwise route that circumnavigates some of the city’s most renowned religious sites, including the Boudha and Swayambhu stupas and Pashupati temple.While initially sponsored through Gyawali’s company, socialtours, the annual gathering is now co-organised through Pangro Outdoor Events and Cycle City Network Nepal. Turkish Airlines is the official airlines partner and conducts CLICK2WIN contest where this year both professional and amateur photographers have a chance to win a trip to Istanbul if their Kora picture receives the most views.  Read more: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/re-cycling-kathmandu-is-not-so-easy/">‘Re-cycling’ Kathmandu is not so easy</a>, Sarah Watson

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Pedalling for life

<figure><img width="1400" height="933" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022111412118/637221a29c7e80680e0c02c8jpeg.jpg" alt=""/><figcaption>Photo: GOPEN RAI/NEPALI TIMES ARCHIVE</figcaption></figure>By 7:30AM on 5 June, hundreds of cycling enthusiasts had gathered at Patan Darbar Square. Pedestrians, activists, politicians, and cyclists were marking World Bicycle Day and call for green, bicycle-friendly infrastructure in Kathmandu.It was the first rally in more than two years because of the pandemic. The new and re-elected mayors of Lalitpur, Kathmandu, and Kirtipur were all present to show their commitment to supporting dedicated cycling lanes for a more environmentally friendly Kathmandu Valley. Participants were promoting cycling as a sustainable mode of transportation, an alternative to private vehicles including motorbikes, emissions from which are among the major contributors to Kathmandu’s dangerous levels of air pollution.Read  also: <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/nation/The-road-to-safety,873">The  road to safety</a>, Bhrikuti RaiKathmandu is one of the most polluted cities in the world with PM2.5 concentration <a href="https://www.iqair.com/nepal/central-region/kathmandu">over eight times the WHO recommended guidelines</a>. Long-term exposure to these pollutants means that the life expectancy of residents is reduced by nearly four years.Pushkar Shah, an international cyclist and activist who has pedalled across 150 countries hopes that a cycling culture in Kathmandu can help reduce pollution. “We know Kathmandu is polluted, we are always talking about dust and pollution. But we have to do more, we have to educate ourselves to clean up the city,” he says. Advocates maintain that promoting cycling and creating dedicated bike lanes could significantly reduce vehicle emissions, especially from the nearly 1.5 million two-wheelers in the streets of Kathmandu. “If we promote a bicycle day just once a week, we can reduce 1.5 million litres of fuel every year,” adds Shah. “We can save money as well as clean up the air." <figure><img width="1400" height="788" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022111412118/637221a59c7e80680e0c02c9jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption>Photo: ASIF AMINUR RAHSID</figcaption></figure>Kathmandu Valley is naturally bicycle-friendly with relatively short distances between areas, moderate temperature, and few steep inclines in urban areas. But roads in the capital are unsafe, since bicycles must navigate around cars, buses, and motorbikes that might not respect a cyclist’s right of way.In 2011, renowned conservationist and cycling activist <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=18683#.YqBwlxNBz9F">Pralad Yonzon was killed when a vehicle hit him on his bicycle</a>. Seven years later, cyclist Shyam Shrestha <a href="https://kathmandupost.com/national/2018/11/04/forum-pays-tribute-to-cyclist-killed-due-to-civic-negligence">drowned when his bicycle fell into an open drain</a> in Kirtipur. In 2019, Lalitpur <a href="https://kathmandupost.com/lalitpur/2019/11/30/lalitpur-metropolitan-city-inaugurates-first-bike-lane-in-the-valley">introduced its first 4.7km cycle lane</a> between Kupondole and Mangal Bazar. Mayor Chiribabu Maharjan promised to cycle to work and encouraged his staff to do the same. The city also planned to build 110 cycle stands. <figure><img width="1452" height="1094" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022111412118/637221a99c7e80680e0c02cajpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption>Credit: Cycle Culture Movement 2022/Facebook</figcaption></figure>A year later, Mayor Maharjan <a href="https://kathmandupost.com/lalitpur/2020/01/23/nepal-cycle-society-awaits-approval-and-implementation-of-new-cycle-law-in-lalitpur">introduced the Cycle Act 2076</a> in collaboration with the Nepal Cycle Society. He said: “Neither the central nor the federal government has talked about a cycle lane or safety for cyclists to date. By enforcing this law, we want to assure our citizens that cycling is safe in Lalitpur and to encourage everyone to cycle.”The proposed act increased safety for cyclists and those in wheelchairs and suggested fines for drivers and motorists who violated cycle lanes. But in the lack of national cycling legislation, efforts to establish a bicycle law have met obstacles. Lalitpur’s municipal government has in fact clashed with the central government’s Department of Roads over cycle lane management. “The main reason the Act has not come into effect is because the central and provincial governments do not have a Cycle Act,” says Tara Lal Shrestha, a professor at Tribhuvan University and a coordinator for Cycle Culture Movement Nepal. “The central government needs to make a bicycle Act or policy.” <figure><img width="1500" height="1000" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022111412118/637221ac9c7e80680e0c02cbjpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption>Photo: FLAWSONE PICTURES</figcaption></figure>A primary challenge is space. In areas like Patan’s historic old town, many streets are only wide enough to accommodate a single car, let alone separated lanes for cyclists. But environmental engineer Bhushan Tuladhar explains that effective bike lanes are possible if properly planned.Compared to 3.5m needed for private vehicles, bicycle lanes only take up 1.5m. For some of Kathmandu’s wider roads, there is room for more than one bike lane. “We can prioritise bike lanes and plan for what is most appropriate for every type of street,” adds Tuladhar.  There are now plans for an additional cycle lane to act as a 9km ring road between Balkhu, Bagmati and Balkumari bridges. The future of Kathmandu Valley’s bicycle lanes is not just a question of building infrastructure, however, but attitude. Bias against cycling as a lesser means of transportation can damage efforts to establish the lanes. “Bicycles are usually seen as for the poor, not something to aspire for, so people do not prioritise bike lanes,” adds Tuladhar. But having bicycle lanes alone will not protect cyclists. The traffic, buses and the motorcycles need to follow rules and prioritise pedestrians and cyclists. Existing cycle lanes are only demarcated by green-painted paths and there is no national cycling law motorists must abide by. Adds Shah: “One day, I hope, Kathmandu will be a bicycle-friendly city. One day, I hope our dreams will come true.”Read more: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/no-city-for-cyclists/">No city for cyclists</a>, Sewa Bhattarai

'Re-cycling' Kathmandu is not so easy

<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221107171116/6369302b9c7e80680e03c0e4jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1400" height="1124"/>Nepal Telecom (NTC) is losing market share so rapidly to private rivals that many have begun to compare it with Janakpur Cigarette Factory, the Soviet-era public sector enterprise that was allowed to go bust.The cigarette manufacturer dominated Nepal’s tobacco market for two decades, but bled slowly to death because of corruption, mismanagement and politicisation after democratisation in 1990. Today, the factory premises have been <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/mr-province-2/">converted into the headquarters of the Province 2</a> government.Just as Janakpur Cigarette Factory rapidly lost market share to private tobacco companies in the 1990s, NTC is following the same patttern, and falling behind the aggressive growth of <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/interview/Johan-Dennelind-TeliaSonera-on-telecom-trends-in-nepal,1101">Ncell</a> owned by the Malaysia-based Axiata group.NTC was the unchallenged leader in the country’s fast-growing telecommunications sector when most users used cell phones for voice calls. But market dynamics began to change with the shift towards mobile data, and most cell phone users spending more for the Internet rather than voice calls.Three years ago, NTC held 56% share of the country’s internet data market, with Ncell (at that time owned by Telia-Sonera) holding 40%. Today, NTC’s internet market share has shrunk to 44%. Ncell too has lost its internet market share, but not as much as NTC.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221107171116/6369302e9c7e80680e03c0e5jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="513">NTC’s income dipped slightly to Rs39 billion this year from Rs40 billion last year, largely due to a fall in income from international voice calls. The company has lost 28% of its earnings from international calls in just three years because of inroads by Internet-based messaging apps.Nepal Telecom’s assistant spokesperson Shobhan Adhikari justifies the slowdown in income from international calls, arguing this is now the trend worldwide. “It is not just us,” he said.But there are other trends that show NTC’s decline from being the country’s largest tax-paying company till a few years ago. Ncell is now paying more in taxes than NTC, with more than Rs14 billion in each of the last three fiscal years. NTC’s tax total went down to Rs9 billion, compared to Rs13 billion three years ago.To make matters worse, NTC is currently rocked by a corruption case with its first female executive head sacked following an ugly legal tussle. The anti-corruption watchdog CIAA is investigating the company for initiating a process to award a multi-billion dollar 4G service network installation contract to a Chinese company, which reportedly quoted a much higher price than the estimate. There is also an argument that spending billions in expanding the 4G service would be a waste of resources because the world is moving towards 5G. The controversy has delayed NTC’s expansion plans for its 4G service beyond the Kathmandu Valley and Pokhara.When Nepal Telecom launched 4G service in the valley in 2016, Ncell was not allowed to upgrade its service for failing to clear its <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/from-nepali-press/He,3602">capital gains tax</a>. But Ncell secured a license to launch 4G service last year, and it has already expanded to 21 cities. NTC is lagging far behind.A former top manager of Nepal Telecom says: “The State-owned company is not collapsing any time soon, but its downfall has definitely begun.”

Nepal Telecom, or go?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4MI6WXEHvU&amp;feature=youtu.beWith its gentle inclines, convenient distances and scenery, Kathmandu had always been an ideal cycling city. Tourists to Nepal in the 1970s wrote ecstatically about pedalling past emerald green terraces to hilltop towns with ancient monuments.But that was before cars drove bicycles <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=18714#.Wu_AcO-FO70" target="_blank" rel="noopener">off the roads</a>. Bicycles made a <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/cycle-to-work-every-friday,1395" target="_blank" rel="noopener">comeback</a> during the fuel crisis during the 2015 Blockade, but soon things went back to roads choked with cars and exhaust fumes.There has been new interest in trail biking around the Valley rim and in the <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/Nepal-mountain-bike-champs,1234" target="_blank" rel="noopener">high mountains</a> as an <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/Yak,278" target="_blank" rel="noopener">adventure sport</a>, but commuting by bicycles is in steep decline because of pollution and the unkept promise of bicycle lanes.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221107101152/6368d61c9c7e80680e031465jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1400" height="933"/><figcaption>DUSTMANDU: A bicycle commuter on Tuesday on a road in Khumaltar that is being widened without making space for a bicycle lane. Gopen Rai</figcaption></figure>Abhishek Shrestha, who runs Cycle Chain, a bicycle shop in Jhamsikhel was selling up to four bicycles every week till two years ago. Now, he hardly sells one a month.“Without separate bicycle lanes, motor vehicles pose a great hazard for cyclists,” says Shrestha. Ironically, however, the sale of face masks have shot up, indicating that pollution is a factor putting off cyclists.The death of conservationist Dr. <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/nation/The-road-to-safety,873#." target="_blank" rel="noopener">Pralad Yonzon</a> is still fresh in the minds of people, through it happened in 2011. An avid environmentalist, Dr. Yonzon practised what he preached and commuted on a bicycle. A truck rammed into his bicycle at Balkhu, leading to his death, and the roads continue to be as dangerous for cyclists.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221107101152/6368d61f9c7e80680e031466jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1400" height="933"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>True cycle enthusiasts like Girish Giri (below) however, have a reverse logic about bicycling around town: “I am glad I am not contributing to the air pollution,” grins Girish, a journalist who cycles to work every day, and last month bicycled 120km to Birganj from Kathmandu.The tax on bicycles (25%) is far less than on motor vehicles, so the price is about the same as in the country of manufacture.Read Also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/?p=5681&amp;preview=true" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Riding above the haze</a>, Tyler McmahonHowever, since bicycles are still associated with the lower middle class, it hasn’t gained popularity among middle class commuters in Kathmandu.Bicycle seller Keshav Bahadur Mahat in Patan agrees, saying affordable scooters have cut into his market: “Only children’s bicycles are still selling well.”<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221107101152/6368d6239c7e80680e031467jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1400" height="787"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>With events like Mountain Bike Championships and Kora Cycling, the awareness about the recreational benefits of bicycling has grown. But sports cycling still has a long way to go.“There is no velodrome in Nepal for indoor track cycling, and cross-country cycling, para-cycling, BMX, haven’t really taken off and although Nepal’s terrain is suitable for mountain biking, even that discipline has not grown to its full potential,” explains Gopal Sundar Lal Kakshapati of the Nepal Cycling Association.Activists lobbied for years to make Kathmandu more cycle-friendly, and Kathmandu Mayor Bidya Sundar Shakya had a plan for a ‘Cycle City’ with bicycle lanes and parking areas in his famous list of 100 Things To Do Within the First 100 Days in office.“The 100 days have long passed, and we are disappointed the new Ring Road also does not have bicycle lanes,” says Shailendra Dangol of <a href="http://kcc2020.blogspot.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Cycle City Network</a> Nepal advocacy group.Nepal’s terrain is ideal for all kinds of <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=19700#.Wu_BkO-FO70" target="_blank" rel="noopener">cycling</a>, but policies and plans actively discourage bicycles at a time when cities around the world are returning to this mode of transport.Read Also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/?p=5675&amp;preview=true" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Make sure bicycling is not injurious to health</a>,  Amir Neupane

No city for cyclists

The monsoon has got bad press because Nepal’s tourism operators actively told visitors to avoid <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/managing-the-monsoon?%2F">the rainy season</a>. It is time to change that. The reason can be found right here in the vast alpine meadows of Central Nepal where this time of year you can walk on velvet grass of pastures abloom with delicate pink, red and yellow flowers as the mist rolls up the valley. There is no sound except the hum of bumble bees. &nbsp;&nbsp; There are dozens of places across high Nepal called Chaurikharka, which means yak pasture. But this particular Chaurikharka in Rukum East located at an altitude of 4,000m stands out for its serene beauty, rustic charm and bucolic setting. There is just the occasional chime of <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/when-yaks-go-so-does-culture">yak bells</a> in the distance, and the sharp whistle of herders corralling sheep. &nbsp;&nbsp; The grass shoots are so fragile that one hesitates to step on them, the rounded ridges appear and quickly vanish in waves of mist. With the<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/before-the-next-monsoon"> arrival of monsoon</a>, these meadows are a soothing shade of green dotted with millions of <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/review/the-anatomy-of-a-flower?%2F=">multi-coloured flowers</a>. Until very recently, it took a week or so to hike up to places like Chaurikharka, but with the expansion of the road network even to these far-flung mountains in the lap of Dhaulagiri, they are much more accessible. It is just a three-hour uphill from the Mid-Hill Highway on the border between Baglung and Rukum East.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250802130828_a0b06b494d751b2144ffbbf10894ea64b29e8aed844bc8c66171783abfaf4e16.jpg" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="20250802130828_a0b06b494d751b2144ffbbf10894ea64b29e8aed844bc8c66171783abfaf4e16" data-rendition-name="original" width="2048" height="1365" loading="lazy" alt="Visit Nepal in the monsoon"> </figure>  Purists would say that such easy access devalues the sanctity of these remote high meadows, but it also means more people will be moved to treasure the experience, appreciate <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/natures-fragile-gift-to-nepal">the value of nature </a>so they can take steps to protect it.&nbsp; To be sure, the <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/deadly-monsoon-in-nepal-turns-deadlier">monsoon season can be challenging for road travel</a>. The roads are rough even at the best of times, and in the monsoon they become muddy and treacherous, often blocked by<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/monsoon-deluge-in-nepal"> landslides</a>. But that could be precisely the kind of adventure that the more intrepid visitors crave. Improved road connectivity has already made Chaurikharka and places like Badimallika &nbsp;and other sacred lakes in the mountains of western Nepal popular with domestic tourists. What is driving this traffic is the urge to go to exotic new places and share videos and selfies on social media. Several of Nepal’s travel vloggers have visited Chaurikharka and popularised the place, enticing followers on TikTok or YouTube to retrace their footsteps. But even as they become more popular, these fragile and once-remote places should be protected from over-tourism.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250731110736_f97110b7cdc3e7f80d5877690948fc9f4c95a09c583deb23b07355491e6c5446.jpg" data-media-id="editor_8" data-image-id="20250731110736_f97110b7cdc3e7f80d5877690948fc9f4c95a09c583deb23b07355491e6c5446" data-rendition-name="original" width="1083" height="699" loading="lazy" alt="Visit Nepal in the monsoon NT"> </figure>  <h2>INCREASING FOOTFALL</h2> Chaurikharka is located in Bhume Rural Municipality of East Rukum, near the scenic valley of Dhorpatan in Baglung district. Even in the <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/monsoon-culture">middle of the monsoon</a>, there is a steady stream of Nepali hikers trooping to these high pastures – especially during festival days like Saune Sankranti which this year was on 17 July and actually marks the auspicious beginning of the monsoon here. “This year the rains have not been as heavy and there have been some clear mornings when we could see everything from Dhaulagiri to Machapuchre,” says Khageswar Bhandari, who trekked up here from the road. “The flowers, the greenery and the snowy mountain views make this an incredibly unique place.”&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250802130824_1b9e26f2e9853fdfe69154bb42a7c9ea6da4bf4940efc1da99b304dcfbd7d3d9.jpg" data-media-id="editor_10" data-image-id="20250802130824_1b9e26f2e9853fdfe69154bb42a7c9ea6da4bf4940efc1da99b304dcfbd7d3d9" data-rendition-name="original" width="2048" height="1152" loading="lazy" alt="Visit Nepal in the monsoon"> </figure>  Chaurikharka is worthwhile to get to in any season, but it has a different charm during the monsoon. Word has spread and because it is now easy to get to from Baglung or even Pokhara, people have been flocking here.&nbsp; “Holidays and Saturdays see the largest crowds, with up to 500 visitors every day,” says ward chair Mankaji Pun of Bhume.&nbsp; There was a time not too long ago when local herders brought sheep, goats, cows, buffaloes, horses, and mules to graze here during the monsoon. Although there are still livestock around, animals have been replaced by visitors taking selfies. Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/the-monsoon-and-nature-s-arithmetic">The monsoon, and nature’s arithmetic</a>, Tom Robertson Ward Chair Pun says infrastructure development is his main priority. A foot trail to Chaurikharka was built last year by the Tourism Division Office in Kohalpur, but access via the Raniwas-Koipa road section still remains challenging.&nbsp; “If we get more budget, we can improve the road and facilities to make Chaurikharka the main tourist attraction of this region,” says Bhume Municipality Chair Hom Prakash Shrestha. “After that, we hope to promote Chaurikharka as a top tourist spot.”&nbsp; Economic activity is also picking up with the arrival of visitors, but there seems to be a need to manage the makeshift sheds made of corrugated sheets that spoil the beauty of the place. Tea shops and lodges are also available but facilities are basic. Kuldeep Neupane took a three-day trip from Ghorahi in Dang to visit Chaurikharka recently, and says: “This is an ideal trip to make a quick getaway and let nature recharge your mind and body. And it is much more fun with a tent, to watch the sunrise over the Himalaya or the mist blowing in.”

Visit Nepal in the monsoon

Two weeks ago, Prime Minister KP Sharma Oli announced jubilantly on social media that Nepal had achieved a historic annual growth of 81.8% in exports. He was right. Nepal’s trade did take a great leap forward compared to last year. But the dramatic rise was mainly due to processed soya bean oil.&nbsp; However, Nepal does not produce the edible oil it exports. In fact, the soya and palm oil that make up 44% of total exports are imported from Southeast Asia and South America, and simply re-exported, mostly to India.&nbsp; Under the SAFTA (South Asian Free Trade Area) Agreement, Nepal can export products to India duty-free if it has at least 30% value-added. Nepal’s traders have taken advantage of SAFTA even though the edible oils they export do not reach that value addition threshold. “The 30% value addition requirement is often only on paper,” says former commerce secretary Purushottam Ojha. “It is clear that simply packaging edible oils in Nepal does not fulfil the terms of the trade agreement.” Prime Minister Oli is aware of this, and even called Nepal’s export figures “fake” at an earlier event. The government is relying on other iffy figures to suggest that Nepal’s economy is strong and getting stronger. For example, the value of imports rose by 13.25% in 2024-25 compared to the previous fiscal year.&nbsp; Some of it was due to a jump in electric vehicle imports worth Rs 31.76 billion, but mostly it was because more wholesale soya oil was imported to be re-packaged and sold in India. The very fact that the government boasts about increased imports is an indication of how much it relies on taxing them for revenue. Touting such trade figures cannot be the basis to claim an economic rebound.&nbsp; “A jump in the value of imports can be interpreted as an increase in purchasing power, but it is not evidence of a stronger economy,” says economist Keshav Acharya. “Even though imports have increased, Nepal's domestic production and productive capacity have not improved.” Nepal Rastra Bank's semi-annual economic activity study report shows that industrial production was down in the first six months of the last fiscal year. This despite an increase in the number of new industries registered and investment commitments. Out of the Rs70.2 billion proposed foreign investment, Nepal received only Rs17.9 billion last year.&nbsp; Meanwhile, the rate of capital formation was limited to 24% last year, which is lower than the year before, suggesting that new investment, job creation and economic expansion all declined. If domestic production does not improve in relation to this year’s inflated trade figures, the outflow will put pressure on foreign exchange reserves like it did three years ago. At that time, Nepal borrowed from the IMF under its Extended Credit Facility Program to kickstart the economy.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2025080710084_2cdaaa5795828c4a7de93a0604ba884ef0a8b8f24cccd939f6c24e279ab6058f.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="2025080710084_2cdaaa5795828c4a7de93a0604ba884ef0a8b8f24cccd939f6c24e279ab6058f" data-rendition-name="original" width="1633" height="723" loading="lazy" alt="Nepal's bubble economy NT"> <figcaption>Source: NEPAL RASTRA BANK</figcaption> </figure>  The macroeconomy is on firm footing with foreign exchange reserves at a comfortable Rs2,520 billion in May, up 23% from last year. This was largely due to remittances, and partly due to a falling NPR exchange rate. Real estate transactions and the stock market index have also been climbing as a result of government policies to revive the sector.&nbsp; However, former executive director of Nepal Rastra Bank Nar Bahadur Thapa cautions: “This is not organic growth, it is the result of deliberate policy decisions to relax rules on real estate and stock markets transactions.” In reality, the sharp rise in land prices have increased the cost of production, and excessive monetisation of the real estate has become the main source of Nepal’s economic woes. The central bank has announced a slew of new policies, shifting the terms of loan repayment for industrialists and entrepreneurs, reducing interest rates, and injecting more working capital — all designed to inject adrenaline into the real estate and stock market sectors.&nbsp; When he was governor, Mahaprasad Adhikari made several financial reforms during the latter half of his tenure to stimulate the economy, including tightening credit flow.&nbsp; By the last fiscal year, additional financial reforms had resulted in a credit expansion rate of around 8%. As the pace of credit expansion slows, real estate prices have started to fall. This is actually beneficial to the economy, because it lays the foundation for improvements in land-related entrepreneurship, production, and the construction sector. Just because real estate and the stock market transactions increase, it does not indicate an economic turnaround — especially when manufacturing and productive sector continues to languish.&nbsp; “It is foolish to believe that real estate and the stock market have magically revived our economy. Agriculture employs more than half of the population, but it is in decline. Investment in the productive sector has not increased, and job creation has not increased.” Two years ago, Nepal’s industrialists, business leaders, and political leadership predicted a recession amidst a sluggish business, declining market demand, large-scale job loss, and a shrinking real estate and share market.&nbsp; Still, the economy grew by 3.36% in fiscal year 2023/24. In fact, Nepal’s economy has grown nominally over the last two decades even when all sectors of the economy are in decline.&nbsp; Says Keshav Acharya: “The growth in trade, real estate, and the stock market are bubbles. The real economy remains stagnant.”

Nepal’s bubble economy

The final investigation report on the crash of a Saurya Airlines jet on 24 July 2024 at Kathmandu airport has revealed flaws in the carrier’s technical operation procedures, poor monitoring by the Civil Aviation Authority of Nepal (CAAN) and gaps in the airport’s emergency response. Eighteen people including a child were killed, and only the captain survived as the plane plunged seconds after takeoff, crashing within the airport perimeter. This was the latest in a series of aircraft accidents in previous years, and further tarnished Nepal’s already poor aviation safety record and contributed to the country being retained in the EU’s air safety list. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; The circumstances in the Saurya crash were different from the Yeti Airlines crash in Pokhara in January 2022 that killed all 72 on board, and two Tara Air crashes in February 2016 and May 2022 on approach to Jomsom that together claimed 45 lives. However, all four tragedies were a result of negligence of carriers and crew, failure to follow procedures, regulatory slackness, and overconfidence. The Saurya crash, especially, was a glaring example of how an ailing airline broke its own rules to allow passengers, including non-employees, a joy ride to Pokhara on a maintenance ferry flight. CRASH REPORT The Final Investigation Report prepared by the Aircraft Accident Investigation Commission and released on the first anniversary of the crash last week carried a long list of rules that were ignored or broken, and of regulatory failure. The first mistake was to cram spares, tools and inflammable chemicals needed for the aircraft’s C-Check in Pokhara into the cargo hold flouting its own ground handling procedures.&nbsp; There was no check-in of passengers, some of whom were not even employees – even though regulations say only flight and maintenance crew should be on board a maintenance positioning flight. Many brought their own luggage into the plane and stored it unsecured in the cabin. There was no flight attendant to give a safety briefing to passengers. The load and trim charts given to the flight crew were rough estimates, and the total takeoff weight of the plane was 18,300kg plus or minus 200 kg. That would still have been all right, but there was a glaring mistake in the speedchart Saurya pilots were using to calculate the minimum takeoff speed (known as VR), and it had been wrong ever since the 21-year-old aircraft entered service with the airline in 2017. FAULTY DATA&nbsp; The Commission probed Flight Data Recorder inputs from previous takeoffs of the Canadian-built CRJ200-LR in 2023-2024 and found that the undetected error in the speedchart had caused the plane to pitch up at an abnormal rotation rate at least 18 times on previous takeoffs.&nbsp; Any rotation rate more than 3°/sec is regarded as unusual. But on at least two occasions, this aircraft with tail number 9N-AME had rotation rates of 5.8°/sec and 5.5°/sec, the second one was when the pilot who survived was flying in March 2024.&nbsp; On this particular day, the plane’s rotation rate was 6.5°/sec, causing it to go into a deep stall soon after takeoff, the Commission report said. Essentially, the plane was not flying fast enough down the runway to take off safely.&nbsp; It is not yet clear whether excess weight, unsecured luggage, wrong centre of gravity were also factors, but relying on a faulty speedchart for the given takeoff weight, the captain flying pulled back on the yoke before the plane had reached takeoff speed and at a pitch angle that was too steep. The investigation report says the plane then went into a deep stall and started banking right with the stick shaking. At this point, the flight officer on the right hand seat is heard on the cockpit voice recorder saying: “Whoa, whoa, whoa. Sir, Sir, Sir…” It then banked left before the pilot flying turned the plane sharply to the right again in an evasive action to avoid the parking aprons of the international and domestic terminals. Had he not done so, there would have been a disaster of a much greater magnitude at Kathmandu airport that day. The plane scraped the runway with its right wingtip, collided with a container having helicopter spare parts, and plunged into a gully east of the runway, exploding in a fireball. The investigation also noted that the impact forces seemed to be survivable for some occupants. The fire trucks took unnecessarily long to reach the site even though it was inside the airport perimeter. The absence of an ICAO-standard runway strip, inadequate rescue drills, lack of training, and a blocked emergency service gate leading to the crash site were cited as other factors. &nbsp;&nbsp; <h2>Timestamp of a Disaster</h2>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250731110724_39cdd04693994ce6e55a5b302905c0fa4884fe85bed21ff0779bb1439f3a5725.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="20250731110724_39cdd04693994ce6e55a5b302905c0fa4884fe85bed21ff0779bb1439f3a5725" data-rendition-name="original" width="778" height="826" loading="lazy" alt="Flouting rules caused Saurya tragedy NT"> </figure>  11:10:34 - The Saurya Airlines CRJ200 on the takeoff roll from runway 02. It had a takeoff weight of about 18,300kg, but the pilot’s speedcard had a previously undetected mistake about the minimum takeoff speed. 11:10:55 -The plane with tail number 9N-AME goes into deep stall soon after takeoff because it does not have enough speed to lift its weight. The plane also has an abnormally steep nose-up attitude.&nbsp; 11:11:03 - Without enough speed to generate lift, the plane banks right, then left and right again in CCTV photos taken from the domestic apron (below). If it had not banked right, it could have hit the aprons and terminal buildings. Seen parked is Saurya’s other CRJ200 with tail number 9N-ANM.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250731110732_608132f7225c649125cca2691dd6a6bf930984c5b359e888d7ad9e5eacce3afd.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="20250731110732_608132f7225c649125cca2691dd6a6bf930984c5b359e888d7ad9e5eacce3afd" data-rendition-name="original" width="770" height="555" loading="lazy" alt="Flouting rules caused Saurya tragedy NT"> </figure>  11:11:08 - The plane scrapes the runway with its right wingtip, and falls into the gully. The captain is thrown off the left side of the cockpit and survives. 11:11:15: Plane explodes in a fireball inside the airport perimeter. Firefighters take time to reach the site because of lack of access road and a blocked gate. Read the full investigation report <a href="https://www.tourism.gov.np/files/9N-AME%20AIC%20Final%20Report.pdf">here</a>.

Flouting rules caused Saurya tragedy

American artist Peter Makela was in Nepal in 2022 on a Fulbright scholarship when he experienced the Matya festival in Patan in which devotees made the rounds of the city’s shrines.&nbsp;
He joined the procession, walking through 2,600 stupa and 140 bahal of the town. That immersion left a lasting impression.
As part of Gallery Mcube’s international residency program in Patan, he put his inspiration to canvas in the exhibition Yala Yatra: Walking, Working, Worshipping. The exhibition also coincides with this month’s Matya festival.&nbsp;
Makela has visited Nepal often in the past 11 years but he mostly stayed in and spent his time around Boudha. “This time I stayed in Patan, put the sites I wanted to visit on my map, and off I went,” he tells us. “Each of my artwork is inspired by the stupas and shrines in Patan that I visited.”
The stupa and Ganesh are recurring motifs in his watercolours, and the elephant gods are located in chaityas — reflecting the interplay and blending of the Hindu and Buddhist faiths in Kathmandu Valley.&nbsp;
The stupas and Ganesh are painted in vivid red, yellow, blue and green against abstract backgrounds meant to represent the sky.
“I use the sky as a backdrop because the sky has no border,” says Makela. “The four colours represent the four elements, the different Buddha families and also lights bouncing off of a rainbow.”
The use of just four colours for all the artwork stands out, and combined with the absence of heavy canvases, frames or stands render Makela’s art striking in its simplicity.&nbsp;
The Ganesh is always holding something and the art also portrays the elephant god’s sacred vehicle, the mouse.
While his vibrant stupas and Ganesh reflect the tangibility of Patan’s tradition and heritage, it is as if the backdrops with their shades of grey and red and yellow capture the soul of the city’s shrines.
“If you look closely, there is a sense of form and formlessness at the same time,” he says.&nbsp;
Makela walked 108 kora around the shrines during his exploration of the town, and in the process developed a spiritual connection with Patan’s heritage and traditions.&nbsp;
The exhibition connects with visitors on a deeper, more spiritual, level as well. And with it, they feel a sense of pride as well as the need to urgently preserve Patan’s heritage for future generations.
“Peter’s inclination and approach towards Nepali art and culture is fascinating, and it reflects in his work,” says Mcube curator Manish Lal Shrestha, whose international artist residency program promotes Nepal’s cultural heritage. &nbsp;&nbsp;
Yala Yatra: Walking, Working, Worshipping
1-5 August&nbsp;
10AM-7PM
Gallery Mcube, Patan

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