It was at 2:45AM in the morning, I was in a deep sleep when I got a call from the hospital. The nurse on duty said there was a woman in labour who had had two previous C-sections. Half-asleep, I realised our resident gynaecologist was away on training and immediately rushed to the ward. The patient was 39-year-old Nim Diki Sherpa, wincing in pain and fully dilated. She had not had a single <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/saving-one-nepali-mother-at-a-time">ante-natal checkup</a>, and said she did not even know she was pregnant because she had taken a depo<a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/from-nepali-press/Ftnp-the-curse-of-the-contraceptive,493"> contraceptive injection</a>. Her husband was away and she was brought to Bhojpur District Hospital by neighbours who also had no idea she was pregnant.&nbsp; As resident medical officer with only an advanced skilled assistant birth attendant (ASBA), I was clueless about what to do next. Because of her two previous C-sections, this could be a complicated case needing referral. But our referral centre was too far away for this <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/nepal-s-air-ambulance-saves-mothers">emergency</a>. With our medical superintendent, we gathered at the operation theatre <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/book-review-Admissions-Henry-Marsh-Neurosurgeon,4055">for surgery</a> and took the patient’s consent. Pre-anaesthetic check-up and preloading were done and the patient wheeled in.&nbsp; Blood grouping and crossmatch was done, and two hospital staff donated their own blood since the blood bank did not have stock. Because the patient was writhing in pain, the spinal anesthesia was administered with some difficulty.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250522090524_8a340dc6217599bf9cce8eb2315731089307e3b06a31baef5b622d5ad40ac71e.jpg" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="20250522090524_8a340dc6217599bf9cce8eb2315731089307e3b06a31baef5b622d5ad40ac71e" data-rendition-name="original" width="1280" height="643" loading="lazy" alt="Saving one mother at a time NT"> </figure>  I was the main surgeon with another <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/saving-nepali-mothers-on-mother-s-day">birth attendant</a>, an experienced nurse and anaesthesia assistant. An incision was made near the C-section scars, but as we entered the abdominal cavity there was a sudden gush of blood. We could not figure out where it was coming from.&nbsp; After separating the muscle, I could see that it was as we had feared: a uterine rupture. We made a T-shaped incision to deliver the baby which was drowning in blood. The anaesthesia assistant, medical superintendent and nurse started resuscitating the baby, and I waited for it to cry while trying to deal with the mother’s bleeding. I felt I had lost one life, and could not save the other. We took the uterus out from the incision, traced the source of the bleeding, and started clamping with all the instruments we had.&nbsp; I had seen one case of peripartum hysterectomy during my training, and knew that a case like this was touch and go. Remembering tips from the training, I asked for long artery forceps. It was not in the set, but the nurse tracked one down in the store, disinfected it with betadine and handed it to me.&nbsp; There was no time to autoclave it, and I remembered my trainer telling me that we should all adapt to the situation at hand (अवस्था अनुसारको ब्यबस्था). His advice rang loudly in my ear. There was little hope, but I tried to keep calm and started suturing layers of incisions. All the while the anaesthesia assistant managed to keep everything under control. There was massive bleeding and we transfused two-pints of whole blood. I remembered what the mother had said before she was anaesthetised: “Doctor, do everything to <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/saving-one-nepali-mother-at-a-time-c2plk4ko?fbclid=IwAR3pJwcfeEosJdmBoF623hnjWjHoqIddTwWGMkPoOFNWqMujm1irA1auFr4">save my life</a>.”  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250522090524_e63c9f48bc630d4dea355d15554f2228a1ae9879c816fbcad42396e7f7f11d40.jpg" data-media-id="editor_7" data-image-id="20250522090524_e63c9f48bc630d4dea355d15554f2228a1ae9879c816fbcad42396e7f7f11d40" data-rendition-name="original" width="1200" height="1600" loading="lazy" alt="Saving one mother at a time NT"> </figure>  After three continuous hours at surgery, dawn was breaking as the mother’s bleeding started to come under control and her blood pressure started rising. But we still had a long way to go. The medical superintendent had arranged for <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/nepal-s-air-ambulance-saves-mothers">helicopter medevac </a>and she was airlifted out soon after.&nbsp; With me in the surgery team that night were fellow doctors Praveen Mandal and Shivaji Rijal, anaesthesia assistant Durga Nanda Chaudhary and nurses Sumitra Shiwa and Basanta Moktan. Advanced skilled birth attendant (ASBA) is a 70-day training given to MBBS doctors by the National Health Training Center and Nick Simons Institute (NSI) with clinical exposure in obstetrics after which they are expected to manage <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/saving-nepali-mothers-and-babies-district-by-district">complicated deliveries in rural government hospitals</a> with cesarean section independently. Nepal has dramatically reduced<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/now-and-then"> maternal mortality ratio</a> from 536 per 100,000 live births thirty years ago to 145 now – mainly because of antenatal checkups, institutional deliveries and an increased number of advanced skilled birth attendants.&nbsp; Over the past three decades, the lives of countless <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/comment/saving-more-mothers-and-babies">Nepali mothers </a>have been saved. Like Nim Diki Sherpa, mothers have been saved one at a time by dedicated doctors and nurses working with limited resources and equipment. Read also:<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/nepal-lagging-in-safe-motherhood"> Nepal lagging in safe motherhood</a>, Sudiksha Tuladhar There were many lessons we learnt that day. I learned what it is to take a leadership role in a life-or-death situation. Back at Paropakar Maternity Hospital training in Kathmandu a senior consultant gynecologist once told me to scrub when a patient is bleeding profusely. He knew that one day I would be alone trying to save a life. “There is no running away,” he had said. “There is no excuse, you either try or let a patient die.” Once trained, circumstances will not let you choose. You cannot say ‘I wasn’t trained for this’, you have to adapt to the situation at hand with whatever you have.

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Saving one mother at a time

<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114121112/637222f59c7e80680e0c0327jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="760" height="486"/><figcaption>Govinda KC, Nepal’s crusading surgeon and health activist, plastering a patient’s ankle at the Mugu District Hospital on Sunday. He saw 177 patients for free in five days before travelling on to Jumla on foot. Photos: ACHYUTRAJ BHANDARI</figcaption></figure>Nepal’s  crusading surgeon and health activist Govinda KC has been on hunger strike 19 times since 2012, demanding medical education  reform and equitable healthcare. After retiring from his government job, KC has served patients in all 77 districts and other disaster-stricken countries. He is currently at Khandbari District Hospital in Sankhuwasabha where Nepali Times caught up with him.Excerpt from the conversation:Nepali Times: What is the state of healthcare in Nepal?Govinda KC: Most citizens from both urban and rural areas do not have access to healthcare. Many patients are too poor to afford quality treatment, and those who can not get quality care.The law specifies that 70 types of medicines should be available free of cost in district hospitals, 50 in primary health centres, and 35 in health posts. That is not the case in practice.Some government hospitals even charge money for medicines that are supposed to be free. And hospital fees are just too expensive, so they end up dying, being disabled for life, or sinking deeper into poverty.Health facilities in many rural districts are under-equipped, under-staffed and many patients have to return home without treatment. There are no big hospitals there to begin with, and even the urban poor cannot afford priate city hospitals.Doctors, nurses and office assistants have stuck around in government hospitals only because they are bound by contract. Some hospitals are led by junior non-physicians, making a chaotic and inefficient system.So, where is the problem? The problem in providing basic healthcare arises when the local representatives and  politicians do not work to provide it. When the 2015 constitution was announced, I was in satyagraha. My only demand was that our representatives be treated in health facilities in the same place as their voters. That demand was not fulfilled.The Constitution guarantees the citizen's right to health, but elected politicians do not care about health reforms. They are too busy getting rich overnight by commodifying education and health.I have been fighting to have hospitals and schools in every village, but people prefer to open hospitals in the city. Locals can have access to specialist services at a hospital in their village. This can also help to produce doctors, nurses and public health workers in the provinces. But no one is willing to do that. Politicians are on the payroll of the medical mafia.Do you regret going through all those hunger strikes? Many of my demands were not met. Some promises have been made, but not been implemented in practice. But some have been addressed, like the Medical Education Act was formed after multiple satyagraha. Then the Medical  Education Commission was formed.Before the Act, MBBS entrance exams were conducted by colleges and institutes in their own way, but now it is regulated by the Medical Education Commission.Only those who pass the entrance exams are now eligible for government scholarships and can pick their own college. Action is taken against private institutions if they do not follow the regulationsNow, medical colleges are selected based on their infrastructure, equipment and human resource.  Fees have also  dropped from Rs7-9 million to Rs4.2 million. Medical school is a lot cheaper now, especially for students who are unable to get scholarships.Government medical schools charged up to Rs10 million for  specialised education. Now, students do not have to pay, but get paid instead. After getting an MD they also need to serve for two years in a place assigned by the government. These contract doctors run the country’s healthcare todaySo, the hunger strikes have not been in vain. One of my demands was to have one government medical college in every province. At present, the Karnali Institute of Health Sciences is in operation in Jumla, and the physical infrastructure of Geta Medical College in Dhangadi has been completed. One medical college is soon opening in Dadeldhura after my hunger strike.Despite this, some goals have been lost to the challenges posed by the alliance of political  parties with the mafia. The construction of the Rapti Institute of Health Sciences in Dang was halted due to obstruction from local leaders, and a medical college in  Bardibas due to land acquisition issues.What policies should the government focus on now?First of all, access to basic services, human resources, equipment and medicine should be extended to people in rural areas and the urban poor. If primary health centres and district and provincial hospitals are improved, then 80-90% of patients do not have to  come to Kathmandu for treatment. The government needs to add more human resources to meet the current demand for healthcare.There should be a 15-bed operational hospital in each municipality. Hospitals should also be made free for people to have quality healthcare. The government should take actions against hospitals that operate without meeting proper standards.Additionally, the Medical Education Commission, Nepal Medical Council and other organisations should appoint qualified applicants, not political activists. In fact, the practice of hiring contract-based employees should be eliminated. Contract doctors have a higher chance of fleeing if they are not given temporary incentives to stay.Despite the huge demand for rural doctors, the Public Service Commission opens only 20 seats for doctors each year. This has to change.Any more hunger strikes?I am committed to campaigning for medical education reforms. Along with health and education, we are also fighting for good governance and social justice, without which reform is impossible.I also want to serve in remote areas, which is why I am here in Okhaldhunga. I will fight for people in all parts of the country to have quality, free, affordable and equal access to healthcare as guaranteed by the Constitution for as long as I can.Read more: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/govinda-kc-treats-patients-in-remote-nepal/">Govinda KC treats patients in remote Nepal</a>, Achyutraj Bhandari

"Nepalis are dying because they are poor”

<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114121112/637222f09c7e80680e0c0324jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="960" height="640"/><figcaption>Photo: POSSIBLE HEALTH</figcaption></figure>Ever since Finance Minister Janardan Sharma in his budget speech last month announced a plan to hand over management of Nepal’s national health insurance program to the private sector, experts are concerned that it will make medical treatment unaffordable for most people.Indeed, privatising health insurance is like the government abandoning its people, experts say, and it defeats the very purpose of the program — to provide affordable care for the most underserved communities who can neither access private plans nor expensive hospitals."Health insurance delivers the right of citizens to proper healthcare. As soon as it is implemented through a for-profit company, the social security aspect will be forgotten and serve purely as a business,” warns public health expert Sharad Onta.Private companies already provide health insurance schemes to those who can afford its expensive premium. The private sector therefore mainly serves the affluent, as public health experts Gaj B Gurung and Sushil Koirala <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/dangers-of-privatising-health-insurance-in-nepal/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">argue in their op-ed</a> for Nepali Times:‘But can they really contribute to national public health security, understand equity, expand access to the poorest and the most marginalised population, and negotiate with the government providers for quality services? Are they fundamentally designed to serve the poor?’Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/sick-of-it/">Sick of it</a>, Sagar BudathokiIn 2017, then health minister Gagan Thapa introduced a national insurance scheme with a premium of Rs2,500 a year for a benefit package of Rs50,000 for a family of five. This was later increased to Rs3,500 premium and Rs100,000 payout. But this is still too low, and needs to be revised.Hospitals also complain of late reimbursement, and some are considering pulling out of the program. Dhulikhel Hospital alone is owed Rs250 million in reimbursements. Patients are not happy about the service either, and are dropping out.But it is too early to give up, says SP Kalaunee, former director of Nyaya Health Nepal which implements the national insurance scheme at its Bayalpata Hospital in Achham.“Nepal’s health insurance policy is fairly new and such challenges are to be expected,” he says, “But they can be and should be addressed within the existing structure.”He adds: “The goal of the program was to make healthcare accessible, affordable and equitable to all. The fact that we have an additional feature to the program to strengthen service providers means it was never just a financial mechanism.”Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/taking-wealth-out-of-health/">Taking wealth out of health</a>, Anita BhetwalA mandatory health insurance scheme where people pay the premium based on their per capita income could eventually include benefits that include treatment of chronic illnesses, say experts.Hiring competent staff with expertise in the field at the Health Insurance Board (HIB) might be a good start to improving the existing program. HIB should also be an autonomous body capable of making its own decisions without interference from the Health or Finance Ministry.Digitising reimbursement will also address some of the grievances, especially as the program should also look into signing up as many hospitals and care providers including the private establishments for the scheme. The private sector can be involved, but only in carrying out research on the sustainability of the program and for technical expertise.Nepal’s healthcare is divided into three levels:<ol><li>Primary health care (PHC) which is free in government hospitals</li> 	<li>Secondary care which is paid for by national health insurance and has waived premiums of the elderly, completely disabled, leprosy and Multi-Drug Resistant TB patients, people living with HIV, and the ultra-poor.</li> 	<li>Tertiary care that needs specialised treatment of chronic illnesses like cancers for which the government provides up to Rs100,000.</li></ol>Read more: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/in-a-healthy-state/">In a healthy state</a>, EditorialAll three aim to eliminate user fees at the point of care, but there are implementation challenges — the main one being the lack of government investment in the health sector and the limited understanding of what constitutes good health.“Health is more than just treatment and hospitals. A large part of it is prevention, from preventive measures against infection to building safer roads so that there are fewer road traffic accidents,” explains Sangeeta Kaushal Mishra of the Ministry of Health and Population.But health is not the priority of the government and there is not much investment in training medical personnel, making it incapable of meeting public demand. This gap is now being filled by the private sector.The government’s lack of capacity can be addressed to some measure by working with non-profits much like Nyaya Health Nepal and Nick Simons Institute which work with government hospitals to upgrade service.Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/is-free-health-care-possible-in-nepal/">Is free health care possible in Nepal?</a> S P KalauneeCommunity outreach is another crucial aspect in building a people-centric health system, and Nepal has a head start with its thousands of female community health volunteers across the country. They are primarily responsible for high childhood immunisation rates and reducing maternal mortality.  This now needs to expand to also include healthcare professionals at the grassroots, and retaining them.In the meantime, Nepal’s national health insurance policy also needs to address emerging problems like non-communicable diseases which with injuries make up two-thirds of death and disabilities in Nepal. The program must also include provisions for geriatric care and mental health conditions, all the while making sure the interests of the most vulnerable in the society are addressed."Private entrepreneurs will not fulfil the responsibility of the state. The access to the health care of the poor will be further weakened as soon as health insurance is privatised,” warns Damodar Basaula of the Health Insurance Board.Ensuring accessible and affordable health care for the people is the prerequisite of any government. Passing the buck to the private sector or any other group will further impoverish families unable to pay the medical cost of treating relatives.Says SP Kalaunee: “If you do not invest in the lives of people now it will cost much more tomorrow. The national health insurance program is set to become our biggest investment soon, and we must prepare the groundwork for it."Read more: <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/nation/national-health-insurance-not-as-easy,4028">A national health insurance scheme is not as easy as it looks</a>, Sonia Awale

Sonia Awale

Ensuring health insurance for all Nepalis

Fenerbahçe Beko won the Turkish Airlines EuroLeague finals in Abu Dhabi, held 23-25 May, defeating Monaco 81-70 in the final. Olympiacos, who defeated Panathinaikos 97-93, finished the series in third place. The Most Valuable Player (MVP) of the final match, Nigel Hayes-Davis from Fenerbahçe Beko, received a prize of 1,000,000 Miles&amp;Smiles from Turkish Airlines’ Chief Commercial Officer Ahmet Olmuştur. The carrier has been the title sponsor of the Turkish Airlines EuroLeague, a top tier tournament, since 2010.

Turkish Basketball

While Nepal was hosting the Sagarmatha Sambaad international climate conference in Kathmandu this month, on Mt Everest it was pretty much business as usual.&nbsp; The signs of climate breakdown are all there: a river now runs through Base Camp in summer, the Khumbu Icefall is more unstable, and there are more &nbsp;frequent avalanches. When expeditions arrived in March, the mountains were bare: it had not snowed since September, but then blizzards dumped unseasonal snow in May. And despite climate worries, such is the pull of Himalayan mountaineering that the Everest Industry showed no signs of slowdown. More than 600 international climbers and their Nepali guides had made it to the summit of the world’s highest mountain. At one point there were an estimated 2,000 people in the tent city on the Khumbu Glacier. All the ropes and ladders on the Icefall came down on Thursday, marking the official end of the spring climbing season, and just in time to avoid a monsoon cyclone approaching from the Bay of Bengal. It has been an action-packed season. One factor could be that Everest fees will go up from September: each foreign climber needs to pay a $15,000 royalty, up from the present $11,000. The cost for a Nepali climber on the South Col route will also go up: from Rs75,000 to Rs150,000.&nbsp; The fee to climb Everest in autumn is $7,500 (up from $5,500), but most climbers still prefer spring. Winter permit fee (December-February) is only $3,750 per person and the mountain is now also open for monsoon (June-August) climbs, when the fee is ever lower at $2,750. The revised rule also makes it mandatory for every two climbers on an 8,000m peak to hire one Nepali mountain guide.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2025053004050_67f856fe52714e4bdcf21ae7d45c6f18c82117b9d0a5f73ed1efa04c96de1046.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="2025053004050_67f856fe52714e4bdcf21ae7d45c6f18c82117b9d0a5f73ed1efa04c96de1046" data-rendition-name="original" width="931" height="732" loading="lazy" alt="The Everest Industry graph 1"> </figure>  In addition, climbers also have to pay for porters and guides, equipment, Base Camp costs, Ice Fall and fixed rope team fees, so climbing Everest does not come cheap. But such is the draw of climbing the world’s highest peak that some say the increased fees will not diminish the crowds next year. The government has tried to spread expeditions out to other seasons and other 8,000ers, but with not much success. Earlier this year, Nepal unilaterally increased the number of 8,000m peaks to 14 by adding six more sub-summits to broaden the choice for climbers. Added were: Yalung Kang (8,505m), Yalung Kang West (8,077m) &nbsp;Kangchenjunga Central (8,473m), Kangchenjunga South (8,476m), Lhotse Middle (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,400m).&nbsp; The announcement could go against the accepted topographic criteria that a stand alone peak has to be at least 300m higher than an adjoining prominence, and at more than 3km isolation from it. The UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) still recognises only 14 mountains as eight-thousanders, and only eight of those are in Nepal, or on the border with China. Nepal’s revised mountaineering regulations also increased the insurance coverage of high-altitude workers to protect porters and high altitude guides who usually take more risks on the mountains. Rescue teams and clean-up campaigners to collect trash and remove bodies of dead climbers up to Camp IV of Mt Everest do not need permits.&nbsp; The Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee is now using drones to fly down trash in 20kg sacks. Each climber is also required to bring down at least 6kg of waste and not just their own, but this rule is erratically enforced. With five fatalities on Everest and Lhotse, Spring 2025 had a historically low death toll. Another five climbers died on Annapurna, Kangchenjunga and Makalu.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2025053004050_38681de22f0fefb6faa12b01755566d09c5064d0ff84e12ccc7b5d68ea9ba38a.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="2025053004050_38681de22f0fefb6faa12b01755566d09c5064d0ff84e12ccc7b5d68ea9ba38a" data-rendition-name="original" width="665" height="740" loading="lazy" alt="The Everest industry graph 2"> </figure>  Journalist Ben Ayers who ran the Everest Live social media channel from Everest Base Camp with daily updates credited the low death rate to dramatic rescues of climbers from the ‘Death Zone’ by their Nepali guides and longline helievacs — the visuals all uploaded on YouTube.&nbsp; “Ironically, this perception of safety is bringing more and more inexperienced climbers to the mountain, and they need more rescues,” Ayers said in one of his dispatches.&nbsp; American expedition chronicler and summiteer Alan Arnette suspects there is a lot of under-reporting given that the jet stream and storms were lashing Everest even till late in the season. He told us: “I heard a lot about frostbite and rescues that were not made public. It’s become practically impossible to cover the details on Everest. All the teams report nice news, and they don’t talk about bad stuff to avoid hurting businesses.” Although trash on Nepal’s mountains makes headlines, what does not receive as much attention is the climate impact of so many expeditions. The Sagarmatha Sambaad conference sidestepped this issue, which is ironic given that the impact of climate breakdown is most evident on Himalayan peaks and their glaciers.&nbsp; <h2>Need for Speed</h2> The big stories this year have been about speed-running from their home cities to the top of Everest. Ukrainian entrepreneur Andrew Ushakov flew out of JFK on 15 May at 10:15AM Nepal time, and was on the summit 3 days, 23 hours, and 7 minutes later on 19 May at 9:22AM.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250601080640_1c5cc6fc991307861768f07037ed9d30930fb20f35dbb57dc31c9a92a9e1a885.jpg" data-media-id="editor_2" data-image-id="20250601080640_1c5cc6fc991307861768f07037ed9d30930fb20f35dbb57dc31c9a92a9e1a885" data-rendition-name="original" width="1440" height="1800" loading="lazy" alt="The Everest Industry"> <figcaption>Andrew Ushakov at the summt. Photo: ELITE EXPED</figcaption> </figure>  “I could never find the time for the traditional 40-50 days of acclimatisation,” Ushakov explained matter-of-factly. His ‘Everest Sea-to-Summit’ climb was possible because he spent 400 hours in hypoxic sleep tents over the past four years in New York. However, Ushakov did use ropes already fixed, hired four Nepali guides, helicoptered to Base Camp, and used much more oxygen than an average climber. And after the climb, Ushakov was arrested at Kathmandu airport for being in possession of $20,000 of undeclared cash and spent a night in jail and fined $60,000.&nbsp; The other speedsters were Garth Miller, Alastair Cairns, Anthony Stazicker, and Kev Godlington, all former British Army commandos. They left London and summited five days later on 21 May, and flew right back. They also used hypoxic tents to simulate the thin air high on Everest.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250601080644_90c8dd5cc07b4b43f2989b1dc0c0650ab80f10ebb06680c25a6909c519957bd8.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="20250601080644_90c8dd5cc07b4b43f2989b1dc0c0650ab80f10ebb06680c25a6909c519957bd8" data-rendition-name="original" width="810" height="668" loading="lazy" alt="The Everest Industry "> <figcaption>All four members of the Furtenbach team at the summit. Photo: Sandro Gromen-Hayes</figcaption> </figure>  But more controversial was their use of xenon gas therapy in a German hospital to ramp up the production of oxygen-carrying haemoglobins in their blood. Xenon is banned by the World Anti-Doping Agency for being performance enhancing in sports. Expedition leader Lukas Furtenbach said this rule does not apply to mountaineering, as it is not a regulated sport like swimming. Nepal has no rules about xenon, but the Department of Tourism said it was launching an ‘investigation’ to decide on future policy since it is difficult to ban xenon, but allow oxygen. The controversy has also divided the mountaineering community, with some climbers saying they just want to maximise their chances of survival. Spending less time on the mountain could make climbing safer by reducing avalanche risk. It would also mean less trash on the mountains, but it would reduce the income of Nepal’s expedition industry. It is also unclear how much of the success was due to xenon therapy and whether the ex-special forces were already in good physical shape.&nbsp; The need for speed hides the fact that climbing in the Himalaya is dangerous business, and climbers cannot sprint to the top just by huffing xenon. But ultra-fast climbs could be charged more, and the revenue generated can be used to establish state-of-the-art rescue operations, and increase pay and insurance for guides. Two other speed chasers this season were Swiss-Ecuadorian Karl Egloff and American Tyler Andrews, both on Everest without oxygen. Andrews choppered to Base Camp to catch a weather window, but turned back from 8,500m due to high winds. Heavy snow and wind also forced Egloff to descend from 7,000m. Slow and steady climbers like Anja Blacha from Germany did make it to the summit without oxygen, while Kami Rita Sherpa broke his own record with his 31st Everest summit as he led a 26-strong Indian Army group. There were 468 permits issued for foreign climbers from 48 expeditions to Everest this spring. Nepal’s other eight-thousanders together had only 17 expeditions. Nepal has more than 1,000 peaks above 6,000m, and has opened only 476 of them for climbing.&nbsp;

The Everest Industry

While Nepal marked <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/mt-everest-pvt-ltd">Mt Everest</a> Day on 29 May, on the other side of the planet in the US state of Colorado dozens of Nepalis who have climbed the world’s highest peak multiple times were busy working as chefs and Uber drivers. Among them is Nima Doma Sherpa, who climbed Mt Everest in 2019 after her husband Tshering Wangchu was among 16 crushed by an avalanche on <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/on-thin-ice-in-the-khumbu">the Khumbu Icefall</a> five years earlier. A large serac broke off the West Shoulder of <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/the-everest-industry">Mt Everest </a>and fell directly on a group of <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/more-porters-sick-on-everest-trail">porters and guides</a> making their way up the Icefall at 5,800m. Their bodies were flown by helicopter to Khumjung where Tshering Wangchu was born. He was excited about climbing Mt Everest for the first time.&nbsp; In Khumjung, Nima Doma felt like her own life had also ended. This was the kind of news Sherpa wives, mothers and sisters dreaded every <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/peak-climbing-season-2025-s4abrxny">mountaineering season</a>. She stayed home for more than two years grieving, but ultimately gathered up all her emotional strength to take care of her 6-year-old son and 3-year-old daughter. Nima had grown up in Khumjung hearing <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/review/stories-of-nepal-s-summiteers">tales of adventure on the mountains </a>from their father, Ang Chubi Sherpa who had climbed Everest in 1993. He used to bring her and her sisters and brother European chocolates after every expedition, and used to tell them that the chocolate bars grew on the mountains. “It was only after we got older did we realise that he told us that chocolates grew in the mountains so we would not worry about him putting himself in harm's way,” Nima Doma recalled with a faraway look at her home in Boulder this week. Nima went to the school that <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/commemorating-edmund-hillary-in-nepal,4145">Edmund Hillary</a> opened in Khumjung till Grade 8, and then dropped out to help in the kitchen and <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/when-yaks-go-so-does-culture">tend yaks</a>. She was married off to Tshering Wangchu, who was also a high altitude guide. When Tshering went on expeditions, Nima also started working as a porter from Namche to Base Camp. It was perhaps her father’s tales of mountains of chocolates that had always attracted her to <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/knowing-our-mountains-43v4iyvo">the peaks</a>. After her husband was killed ten years ago this month, being a widow with children was not easy for Nima Doma. But she was not alone: there were at least 200 single mothers in <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/khumbu-since-1950-jaww4qn0">the Khumbu</a>, and 20 of them just in Khumjung whose husbands had been killed in <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/nation/tragic-start-to-himalayan-spring-nepal,3695">mountaineering accidents</a>. Some were not even 20 years old, and had children growing up without fathers. But there were also women in the 50s whose husbands had been killed in the 1980s. Nima found sponsors for her children’s education, and moved to Kathmandu. In the capital, Sherpa widows used to meet to help each other. Some of them had joined the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) training for rock and ice climbing. “I decided that it was no use sitting home and crying anymore, after meeting other single mothers I felt less alone,” remembers Nima, who joined the Juniper Foundation and enrolled in an NMA training camp in Manang. There she climbed Chulu East (6,584m) and met Furadiki Sherpa, whose rope-fixing husband had also been <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/on-mt-everest-s-70th-records-and-fatalities">killed on Everest</a> in 2013. They set themselves the goal of climbing Everest one day, and started a fund-raising drive.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250530090544_621be0724b9182c8e3594b2c562a71ec32ac01d985a71d0cf31646de9d51e15a.png" data-media-id="editor_12" data-image-id="20250530090544_621be0724b9182c8e3594b2c562a71ec32ac01d985a71d0cf31646de9d51e15a" data-rendition-name="original" width="2678" height="1274" loading="lazy" alt="Everest summiteers find new life in the US"> </figure>  “We decided we had to overcome society’s stigma of <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/nation/widows-personal-happiness-comes-last-in-face-of-social-financial-hardships,1855">widowhood</a> and prove that <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/remembering-junko-tabei">women could also climb mountains</a>,” Nima said, adding that she was inspired by Nepal’s first woman Everest summiteer Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, who died during her descent in 1993. Nima Doma and Furdiki climbed the technically-difficult Ama Dablam (6,812m) and then arrived at Everest Base Camp in April 2019 as part of their Two Widows Expedition with the motto, ‘So Can We’. While climbing up the Icefall Nima passed the spot where her husband had been killed. It was a jumble of constantly-shifting ice blocks bigger than houses. She closed her eyes and said a prayer. “I remember thinking, this is so difficult and dangerous. This is what my husband had to do to support our family,” Nima Doma said. “I was determined to fulfil my husband’s dream of climbing Chomolungma, and to prove to ourselves that we two women could do it.” It was 23 May 2019 when <a href="https://www.reuters.com/article/world/two-sherpa-widows-scale-everest-and-smash-stigma-idUSKCN1SU0MV/" target="_blank">Nima and Furdiki stepped on the summit</a> and looked over into Tibet, and down at Tengboche Monastery to the south.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250530090544_6b822582b5d88ba5e972db084f184690b40653c6efd9901b2dd082ffba2a263b.png" data-media-id="editor_16" data-image-id="20250530090544_6b822582b5d88ba5e972db084f184690b40653c6efd9901b2dd082ffba2a263b" data-rendition-name="original" width="2700" height="1522" loading="lazy" alt="Everest summiteers find new life in the US"> </figure>  Nima Doma hugged Furdiki, took off her mask and wept. But for the first time in five years, it was not from grief but relief — relief for being free of all the sadness and sacrifices and for fulfilling her husband’s dream. They had found <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/life-after-death">life after death</a>. “I felt this immense joy to be on top of the world, it was indescribable,” Nima Doma said, “I have wept only twice in my life. Once when my husband died, and once there on top of Everest.” The tears had frozen on Nima Doma’s cheeks, as she and Furdiki headed back down the mountain.

Everest summiteers find new life in the US

Chinese EV company Dongfeng Nammi has exported 12,000 units of the JF-S3 to over 40 countries, doing especially well in Norway, Latvia, the Czech Republic, and the Netherlands. It is also setting up production facilities in South America and Southeast Asia.&nbsp;