Earlier this week, as students studying in colleges affiliated with Tribhuvan University (TU) awaited results of last year’s exams, TU’s Office of the Controller of Examinations sent out a sheepish statement saying hundreds of answer papers of two courses had gone missing.&nbsp;
Students who had given the tests in May 2023 for the Bachelor’s Population Studies and Basics of Education course were given only a few days’ notice to sit for the exams again. Such incompetence and mediocrity has been the hallmark of Nepal’s education system which has been plagued by hyper-politicisation and patronage.&nbsp;
Postponed exams, leaked test questions, lost answer papers, and delays in publishing results are so common, they are treated as a given. The malaise contributes to the inability of universities to enrol students who prefer to pay recruiters to pursue higher education abroad.
“Nepal's educational institutions are crucial to political awareness, engagement, organisation, and mobilisation,” says veteran journalist and editor of Sikshak monthly magazine Rajendra Dahal. “But what has happened is that politics has taken over the education sector and made it entirely business driven.”
Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/editorial/lessons-not-learnt-homework-not-done">Lessons not learnt, homework not done</a>, Editorial
Education Minister Sumana Shrestha from the independent RSP has, in the month since she took office, determined to undo half-a-century of neglect, political interference and mismanagement. &nbsp;&nbsp;
Since everyone from university vice-chancellors to teachers in rural community schools are political appointees, Shrestha’s first order of business is to de-politicise colleges and universities.
“No amount of infrastructure or programs we introduce will yield results until the education sector… from school to university level…is freed from party politics,” Shrestha said in one of her social media monologues this week. “The law is clear … we just need to enforce it.”
Shrestha announced a probe into the missing TU answer sheets, decided to initiate proceedings to appoint independent experts as university chancellors and co-chancellors, and vowed to keep her Ministry free of nepotism and favouritism. She even urged complaints to be filed against teachers engaging in political activities, and sent a circular to all local governments to ensure that public schools do not charge any fees.
Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/nepal-s-hard-working-students-overseas">Nepal’s hard working students overseas</a>, Sonia Awale
Such radical proposals have raised hackles with politically-affiliated faculty, unions and politicians who have long milked the university system, and Shrestha is being heavily trolled on the social web. Many say making government schools absolutely free would force them to compromise on quality, or close altogether.
University vice-chancellors have historically been political appointees despite efforts to reform the system. There was a chance to do things differently this year but Prof Keshar Jung Baral was ultimately appointed vice-chancellor of TU largely due to his proximity to Prime Minister Pushpa Kamal Dahal, who ignored the first candidate on a shortlist by a search committee.&nbsp;
Nepal’s Political Party Act 2017 prohibits teachers from actively engaging in party politics and the Education Act stipulates that teachers must not hold executive political positions. That rule has been openly and widely flouted.
It is not only higher education that is politicised, public school employees are appointed based on party strength in local government. Most teachers are active members of party-affiliated unions such as the Unified All Nepal Teachers Association (Maoist Centre), the Nepal National Teachers Association (UML), or the Nepal Teachers Association (Nepali Congress).&nbsp;
Efforts to reform the system with the proposed Education Bill is itself problematic, educators say. The National Examination Board’s Chairman, for instance, is to be appointed by a committee comprised of Education Ministry officials, as opposed to the current system of selecting the candidate based on recommendation by a panel of Public Service Commission experts. &nbsp;
Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/inclusiveness-not-just-theory-in-this-school">Inclusiveness not just theory in this school</a>, Shamshad Ahmad
“It is necessary to recognise that de-politicising education will require not just administrative and legal decisions, but also political ones,” notes Dahal. “This is therefore also a political process.”
Policies are as much to blame as politics. The national school curriculum is full of holes and lacks diversity. Teachers are underpaid, undertrained and under-motivated, the government schools lack basic facilities.&nbsp;
There are many who want Education Minister Sumana Shrestha’s reforms to fail for rocking the boat in the education sector. They also want her to be a lightning rod for criticism of her RSP, which is aiming to show results and become at the second largest party in the 2027 elections.
However, charges against RSP leader and Home Minister Rabi Lamichhane and his wife as well as agains the RSP’s Labour Minister Dol Prasad Aryal in fraud cases involving cooperatives are distracting the party from pushing &nbsp;Shrestha’s reforms in education.
Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/angrezi/mai-commin-sir-qfdjg2uw">"Mai commin, Sir?"</a>, Anbika Giri
The NC may be the largest party in Parliament, but is in the opposition. It has used the cooperative scam as a battering ram against the coalition in general and Lamichhane in particular. However, the NC is restraining itself from going all out against Lamichhane just in case it needs the RSP’s numbers to return to government.&nbsp;
Labour Minister Aryal has also been on the defensive about reports that his office had resumed issuing labour permits for Russia, where many Nepalis have been killed fighting for the Russian Army. He clarified the ministry was reviewing permits for “safe places” in Russia. &nbsp;
It is not just the RSP that is an education reform spree. Kathmandu Mayor Balen Shah has stirred a hornet’s nest for his directive to all private schools in the capital to adopt names of Nepali deities, people and places within 35 days or face penalties. &nbsp;
Says Dahal: "The Education Minister's vow to take politics out of education can be taken as a positive step. But it will be worth noting if the ministry has decided to clean up the education sector for the benefit of a select few or for the benefit of society at large."
Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/multimedia/age-no-bar-to-go-to-school">Age no bar to go to school</a>, Sahina Shrestha

Shristi Karki

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Class Act

Early spring sees half a million 10th graders across Nepal line up for the ongoing Secondary Education Examination (SEE). It is not without reason the test is called ‘The Iron Gate’ since it can keep so many out who do not pass.
The Nepal Education Board restructured the school system in 2016, and replaced the previous School Leaving Certificate (SLC) with the SEE. The curricula and grading systems were changed so that practical and interactive teaching would replace rote textbook-based learning.
Alas, memorising and regurgitating answers in the test paper is still the dominant method of teaching. Cheating with ‘chits’ is rife. Test questions reflect irrelevant and problematic textbook content.&nbsp;
This week, a young man was caught sitting for the SEE math exam on behalf of his brother-in-law. Mobile phones and smartwatches were confiscated at other test centres. Invigilators and supervisors were themselves found leaking test questions or giving hints to selected test-takers. Chits are smuggled inside pencil cases, and hidden in restrooms. &nbsp;
Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/inclusiveness-not-just-theory-in-this-school">Inclusiveness not just theory in this school</a>, Shamshad Ahmad
Nepal has been manufacturing a nation of cheaters who over the generations occupy seats of power. It not only proves just how rotten the country’s education system is, but it is also at the root of governance failure and the epidemic of corruption. Cheating &nbsp;extends to higher levels of government, and has even permeated the Public Service Examinations that civil servants are required to take.&nbsp;
Nepal’s problem with education does not begin and end at Grade 10. Studies have shown that students have below-average learning achievement even at upper primary levels because of faulty textbooks and mediocre teachers.&nbsp;
Despite numerous attempts at reforms and rewriting, the curriculum is rife with errors, there are embarrassing mistakes and misleading information. The content is not gender inclusive, and does not reflect Nepal’s socio-cultural, ethnic and religious diversity.&nbsp;
The official language of instruction for compulsory subjects excluding Nepali and Social Studies is English. However, public schools lack instructors in English, while private schools prioritise English, with students penalised for speaking Nepali or their mother tongue in class.
Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/angrezi/mai-commin-sir-qfdjg2uw">"Mai commin, Sir?</a>", Anbika Giri
As a result, Nepal has been producing generations of mediocre students with little command of their native or second language and with little knowledge of their country.
Every time governments tried to improve the quality of instruction, they made it worse. Educators have raised valid concerns about provisions of the controversial new education bill. They say it takes away the autonomy of local units and benefits private schools.
Not that local governments have done any better when given the authority. They make populist, cosmetic changes like mandating teaching local languages even if the students and guardians do not want it, or changing the English names of schools.&nbsp;
Kathmandu Mayor Balen Shah has issued an ultimatum for private schools to change their names to reflect Nepali identity within a month. He is not the first to do so, and probably will not &nbsp;be the last. &nbsp;
He wants the city’s schools to be named after deities, shrines, natural resources or historical figures that reflect 'Nepali-ness’.&nbsp;
More unreasonable is the directive that schools with the word ‘Public’ must have been providing full scholarships to at least one-third of students. Schools with ‘National’ in their names must have students from at least 25 districts, and ‘International’ schools must have 33% foreign students. But (wait for this) names of all schools must end with ‘Bidyalaya’ or ‘Pathshala’.
Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/learning-rubbish-memorising-gibberish">Learning rubbish, memorising gibberish</a>, Yugottam Koirala and yugeshwor Koirala
All well and good. But how is this going to improve the quality of instruction?
Then, the new Education Minister Sumana Shrestha sent out a circular directing all government schools to stop charging fees. Parents cheered, but government schools which get only enough budget to pay staff salaries, nothing for development and upkeep, are in a quandary. We thought the new crop of young politicians were smarter and would not make half-baked decisions. Only 11% of Nepal’s annual budget goes into education, and most of it for teacher’s salaries.&nbsp;
Better paid, motivated and trained teachers would be a quick, surefire way to improve quality. Tests like the SEE can be done away with and replaced with a more representative grading system. Outdated curricula and gaffe-filled textbooks must be peer reviewed. &nbsp;&nbsp;
Nepal’s identity is reflected not by the name of its schools, but by the quality instruction in them.
Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/multimedia/age-no-bar-to-go-to-school">Age no bar to go to school</a>, Sahina Shrestha
Shristi Karki

Lessons not learnt, homework not done

The monsoon has got bad press because Nepal’s tourism operators actively told visitors to avoid <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/managing-the-monsoon?%2F">the rainy season</a>. It is time to change that. The reason can be found right here in the vast alpine meadows of Central Nepal where this time of year you can walk on velvet grass of pastures abloom with delicate pink, red and yellow flowers as the mist rolls up the valley. There is no sound except the hum of bumble bees. &nbsp;&nbsp; There are dozens of places across high Nepal called Chaurikharka, which means yak pasture. But this particular Chaurikharka in Rukum East located at an altitude of 4,000m stands out for its serene beauty, rustic charm and bucolic setting. There is just the occasional chime of <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/when-yaks-go-so-does-culture">yak bells</a> in the distance, and the sharp whistle of herders corralling sheep. &nbsp;&nbsp; The grass shoots are so fragile that one hesitates to step on them, the rounded ridges appear and quickly vanish in waves of mist. With the<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/before-the-next-monsoon"> arrival of monsoon</a>, these meadows are a soothing shade of green dotted with millions of <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/review/the-anatomy-of-a-flower?%2F=">multi-coloured flowers</a>. Until very recently, it took a week or so to hike up to places like Chaurikharka, but with the expansion of the road network even to these far-flung mountains in the lap of Dhaulagiri, they are much more accessible. It is just a three-hour uphill from the Mid-Hill Highway on the border between Baglung and Rukum East.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250802130828_a0b06b494d751b2144ffbbf10894ea64b29e8aed844bc8c66171783abfaf4e16.jpg" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="20250802130828_a0b06b494d751b2144ffbbf10894ea64b29e8aed844bc8c66171783abfaf4e16" data-rendition-name="original" width="2048" height="1365" loading="lazy" alt="Visit Nepal in the monsoon"> </figure>  Purists would say that such easy access devalues the sanctity of these remote high meadows, but it also means more people will be moved to treasure the experience, appreciate <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/natures-fragile-gift-to-nepal">the value of nature </a>so they can take steps to protect it.&nbsp; To be sure, the <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/deadly-monsoon-in-nepal-turns-deadlier">monsoon season can be challenging for road travel</a>. The roads are rough even at the best of times, and in the monsoon they become muddy and treacherous, often blocked by<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/monsoon-deluge-in-nepal"> landslides</a>. But that could be precisely the kind of adventure that the more intrepid visitors crave. Improved road connectivity has already made Chaurikharka and places like Badimallika &nbsp;and other sacred lakes in the mountains of western Nepal popular with domestic tourists. What is driving this traffic is the urge to go to exotic new places and share videos and selfies on social media. Several of Nepal’s travel vloggers have visited Chaurikharka and popularised the place, enticing followers on TikTok or YouTube to retrace their footsteps. But even as they become more popular, these fragile and once-remote places should be protected from over-tourism.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250731110736_f97110b7cdc3e7f80d5877690948fc9f4c95a09c583deb23b07355491e6c5446.jpg" data-media-id="editor_8" data-image-id="20250731110736_f97110b7cdc3e7f80d5877690948fc9f4c95a09c583deb23b07355491e6c5446" data-rendition-name="original" width="1083" height="699" loading="lazy" alt="Visit Nepal in the monsoon NT"> </figure>  <h2>INCREASING FOOTFALL</h2> Chaurikharka is located in Bhume Rural Municipality of East Rukum, near the scenic valley of Dhorpatan in Baglung district. Even in the <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/monsoon-culture">middle of the monsoon</a>, there is a steady stream of Nepali hikers trooping to these high pastures – especially during festival days like Saune Sankranti which this year was on 17 July and actually marks the auspicious beginning of the monsoon here. “This year the rains have not been as heavy and there have been some clear mornings when we could see everything from Dhaulagiri to Machapuchre,” says Khageswar Bhandari, who trekked up here from the road. “The flowers, the greenery and the snowy mountain views make this an incredibly unique place.”&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250802130824_1b9e26f2e9853fdfe69154bb42a7c9ea6da4bf4940efc1da99b304dcfbd7d3d9.jpg" data-media-id="editor_10" data-image-id="20250802130824_1b9e26f2e9853fdfe69154bb42a7c9ea6da4bf4940efc1da99b304dcfbd7d3d9" data-rendition-name="original" width="2048" height="1152" loading="lazy" alt="Visit Nepal in the monsoon"> </figure>  Chaurikharka is worthwhile to get to in any season, but it has a different charm during the monsoon. Word has spread and because it is now easy to get to from Baglung or even Pokhara, people have been flocking here.&nbsp; “Holidays and Saturdays see the largest crowds, with up to 500 visitors every day,” says ward chair Mankaji Pun of Bhume.&nbsp; There was a time not too long ago when local herders brought sheep, goats, cows, buffaloes, horses, and mules to graze here during the monsoon. Although there are still livestock around, animals have been replaced by visitors taking selfies. Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/the-monsoon-and-nature-s-arithmetic">The monsoon, and nature’s arithmetic</a>, Tom Robertson Ward Chair Pun says infrastructure development is his main priority. A foot trail to Chaurikharka was built last year by the Tourism Division Office in Kohalpur, but access via the Raniwas-Koipa road section still remains challenging.&nbsp; “If we get more budget, we can improve the road and facilities to make Chaurikharka the main tourist attraction of this region,” says Bhume Municipality Chair Hom Prakash Shrestha. “After that, we hope to promote Chaurikharka as a top tourist spot.”&nbsp; Economic activity is also picking up with the arrival of visitors, but there seems to be a need to manage the makeshift sheds made of corrugated sheets that spoil the beauty of the place. Tea shops and lodges are also available but facilities are basic. Kuldeep Neupane took a three-day trip from Ghorahi in Dang to visit Chaurikharka recently, and says: “This is an ideal trip to make a quick getaway and let nature recharge your mind and body. And it is much more fun with a tent, to watch the sunrise over the Himalaya or the mist blowing in.”

Visit Nepal in the monsoon

The final investigation report on the crash of a Saurya Airlines jet on 24 July 2024 at Kathmandu airport has revealed flaws in the carrier’s technical operation procedures, poor monitoring by the Civil Aviation Authority of Nepal (CAAN) and gaps in the airport’s emergency response. Eighteen people including a child were killed, and only the captain survived as the plane plunged seconds after takeoff, crashing within the airport perimeter. This was the latest in a series of aircraft accidents in previous years, and further tarnished Nepal’s already poor aviation safety record and contributed to the country being retained in the EU’s air safety list. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; The circumstances in the Saurya crash were different from the Yeti Airlines crash in Pokhara in January 2022 that killed all 72 on board, and two Tara Air crashes in February 2016 and May 2022 on approach to Jomsom that together claimed 45 lives. However, all four tragedies were a result of negligence of carriers and crew, failure to follow procedures, regulatory slackness, and overconfidence. The Saurya crash, especially, was a glaring example of how an ailing airline broke its own rules to allow passengers, including non-employees, a joy ride to Pokhara on a maintenance ferry flight. CRASH REPORT The Final Investigation Report prepared by the Aircraft Accident Investigation Commission and released on the first anniversary of the crash last week carried a long list of rules that were ignored or broken, and of regulatory failure. The first mistake was to cram spares, tools and inflammable chemicals needed for the aircraft’s C-Check in Pokhara into the cargo hold flouting its own ground handling procedures.&nbsp; There was no check-in of passengers, some of whom were not even employees – even though regulations say only flight and maintenance crew should be on board a maintenance positioning flight. Many brought their own luggage into the plane and stored it unsecured in the cabin. There was no flight attendant to give a safety briefing to passengers. The load and trim charts given to the flight crew were rough estimates, and the total takeoff weight of the plane was 18,300kg plus or minus 200 kg. That would still have been all right, but there was a glaring mistake in the speedchart Saurya pilots were using to calculate the minimum takeoff speed (known as VR), and it had been wrong ever since the 21-year-old aircraft entered service with the airline in 2017. FAULTY DATA&nbsp; The Commission probed Flight Data Recorder inputs from previous takeoffs of the Canadian-built CRJ200-LR in 2023-2024 and found that the undetected error in the speedchart had caused the plane to pitch up at an abnormal rotation rate at least 18 times on previous takeoffs.&nbsp; Any rotation rate more than 3°/sec is regarded as unusual. But on at least two occasions, this aircraft with tail number 9N-AME had rotation rates of 5.8°/sec and 5.5°/sec, the second one was when the pilot who survived was flying in March 2024.&nbsp; On this particular day, the plane’s rotation rate was 6.5°/sec, causing it to go into a deep stall soon after takeoff, the Commission report said. Essentially, the plane was not flying fast enough down the runway to take off safely.&nbsp; It is not yet clear whether excess weight, unsecured luggage, wrong centre of gravity were also factors, but relying on a faulty speedchart for the given takeoff weight, the captain flying pulled back on the yoke before the plane had reached takeoff speed and at a pitch angle that was too steep. The investigation report says the plane then went into a deep stall and started banking right with the stick shaking. At this point, the flight officer on the right hand seat is heard on the cockpit voice recorder saying: “Whoa, whoa, whoa. Sir, Sir, Sir…” It then banked left before the pilot flying turned the plane sharply to the right again in an evasive action to avoid the parking aprons of the international and domestic terminals. Had he not done so, there would have been a disaster of a much greater magnitude at Kathmandu airport that day. The plane scraped the runway with its right wingtip, collided with a container having helicopter spare parts, and plunged into a gully east of the runway, exploding in a fireball. The investigation also noted that the impact forces seemed to be survivable for some occupants. The fire trucks took unnecessarily long to reach the site even though it was inside the airport perimeter. The absence of an ICAO-standard runway strip, inadequate rescue drills, lack of training, and a blocked emergency service gate leading to the crash site were cited as other factors. &nbsp;&nbsp; <h2>Timestamp of a Disaster</h2>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250731110724_39cdd04693994ce6e55a5b302905c0fa4884fe85bed21ff0779bb1439f3a5725.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="20250731110724_39cdd04693994ce6e55a5b302905c0fa4884fe85bed21ff0779bb1439f3a5725" data-rendition-name="original" width="778" height="826" loading="lazy" alt="Flouting rules caused Saurya tragedy NT"> </figure>  11:10:34 - The Saurya Airlines CRJ200 on the takeoff roll from runway 02. It had a takeoff weight of about 18,300kg, but the pilot’s speedcard had a previously undetected mistake about the minimum takeoff speed. 11:10:55 -The plane with tail number 9N-AME goes into deep stall soon after takeoff because it does not have enough speed to lift its weight. The plane also has an abnormally steep nose-up attitude.&nbsp; 11:11:03 - Without enough speed to generate lift, the plane banks right, then left and right again in CCTV photos taken from the domestic apron (below). If it had not banked right, it could have hit the aprons and terminal buildings. Seen parked is Saurya’s other CRJ200 with tail number 9N-ANM.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250731110732_608132f7225c649125cca2691dd6a6bf930984c5b359e888d7ad9e5eacce3afd.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="20250731110732_608132f7225c649125cca2691dd6a6bf930984c5b359e888d7ad9e5eacce3afd" data-rendition-name="original" width="770" height="555" loading="lazy" alt="Flouting rules caused Saurya tragedy NT"> </figure>  11:11:08 - The plane scrapes the runway with its right wingtip, and falls into the gully. The captain is thrown off the left side of the cockpit and survives. 11:11:15: Plane explodes in a fireball inside the airport perimeter. Firefighters take time to reach the site because of lack of access road and a blocked gate. Read the full investigation report <a href="https://www.tourism.gov.np/files/9N-AME%20AIC%20Final%20Report.pdf">here</a>.

Flouting rules caused Saurya tragedy

French citizen Louis arrived in Nepal for the first time earlier this year, planning to <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/the-abcs-of-a-winter-trek-in-nepal">trek the Annapurna Circuit </a>before heading down to Bardia to hopefully catch a glimpse of some<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/nepal-counting-its-tigers"> tigers</a>. Before he began his journey from Besisahar, Louis (who only revealed his first name) had imagined breathing crisp mountain air, and following the melodious gurgle of the Marsyangdi.&nbsp; Instead, he had to breathe fumes and dust all the way to Chame. Louis says he masked his face with a handkerchief: “It was not what I expected, this is not right.”  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2025080304080_f03fce1527cf8a63178e4e82589a1a7096c8cfa28893ca4a5f7fe82d91a6e38a.jpg" data-media-id="editor_2" data-image-id="2025080304080_f03fce1527cf8a63178e4e82589a1a7096c8cfa28893ca4a5f7fe82d91a6e38a" data-rendition-name="original" width="2419" height="1814" loading="lazy" alt="Manang trails NT 1"> </figure>  Many other trekkers are similarly disappointed as roads have been built along what used to be <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/a-walk-back-in-time-chandragiri-hatiban">walking trails</a>. Manang and Humla are the last remote regions in the Himalaya to be connected to the national road network. &nbsp;Construction of the 87km Besisahar-Manang road began in 1994, but was stalled during <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/14-years-after-conflict-no-closure-in-nepal">the Maoist conflic</a>t, and finally finished in 2012.&nbsp; Most of it has not yet been blacktopped, and sections have been carved out of vertical cliff faces, making them treacherous. But it has allowed road access to Manang, a journey that previously took a week on foot.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2025080304084_32b3ca875a0df9f1dd42dbe915e6f6a2cd4f2e53f1cf2d3ee5cbdb3435905000.jpg" data-media-id="editor_5" data-image-id="2025080304084_32b3ca875a0df9f1dd42dbe915e6f6a2cd4f2e53f1cf2d3ee5cbdb3435905000" data-rendition-name="original" width="2400" height="1505" loading="lazy" alt="Manang trails NT 1"> </figure>  While the <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/the-road-out-of-nepal">road has improved access</a>, it has impacted on<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/trekking-in-the-time-of-climate-change"> trekking tourism </a>— the mainstay of Manang’s economy. The number of tourists visiting the scenic valley behind the Annapurnas grew from 21,245 in 2023 to 30,866 in 2024. The Annapurna Circuit is known for unique sights like <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=9194">Tilicho</a>, one of the highest lakes in the world, the Thorong La pass that connects Manang to Mustang, and the valley’s own rich cultural heritage. Thorong La at 5,416m is the highest hiking pass in the world, and was used by locals for trade with Mustang before it became a <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/comment/lift-restrictions-on-upper-mustang">popular trekking route</a>. &nbsp; “For guests, the excitement of reaching Thorong La is now overshadowed by their disappointment of having to journey through dusty roads to get there,” says Manang lodge-owner Ongma Gurung. “That is the complaint we get the most.” <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/tourism-that-treads-lightly-on-the-land">Local tourism </a>operators are trying to get the government to build alternative foot trails. But there have been delays due to a lack of budget.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2025080304084_c5f76e398182785bb17846a148e3ca89de5687b4623580f8e2d725a7a287edfa.jpg" data-media-id="editor_11" data-image-id="2025080304084_c5f76e398182785bb17846a148e3ca89de5687b4623580f8e2d725a7a287edfa" data-rendition-name="original" width="2419" height="1762" loading="lazy" alt="Manang trails"> </figure>  The Naso Rural Municipality has identified other routes along the Annapurna Circuit in Chyamche, Tal, and Khotro so trekkers can bypass heavy vehicles involved in the construction of the Manang-Marsyangdi Hydropower Project. “But the local government cannot do everything,” admits the chair Dhan Bahadur Gurung. “And for leaders in Kathmandu, Manang is out of sight and out of mind.” Munindra Jung Gurung represents Manang in the Gandaki Provincial Assembly, and says he has raised the issue in <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/pokhara-s-tourism-woes">Pokhara</a>. He is hopeful there will be a hearing. To be sure, the road is not all bad news. Locals benefit, the number of visitors has grown, and trekkers can now also save time and use it to explore <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=5960">side valleys in Manang</a>, visiting the villages like Nar and Phu. Annapurna Conservation Area (ACA) chief Rabin Kadariya concedes that the road to Upper Manang was crucial to connect the remote region with the rest of Nepal, but adds: “We have built an alternative trail connecting Talgaun, and we will consult local communities about their priorities on other hiking trails.”&nbsp;

Trailing off in Manang

American artist Peter Makela was in Nepal in 2022 on a Fulbright scholarship when he experienced the Matya festival in Patan in which devotees made the rounds of the city’s shrines.&nbsp;
He joined the procession, walking through 2,600 stupa and 140 bahal of the town. That immersion left a lasting impression.
As part of Gallery Mcube’s international residency program in Patan, he put his inspiration to canvas in the exhibition Yala Yatra: Walking, Working, Worshipping. The exhibition also coincides with this month’s Matya festival.&nbsp;
Makela has visited Nepal often in the past 11 years but he mostly stayed in and spent his time around Boudha. “This time I stayed in Patan, put the sites I wanted to visit on my map, and off I went,” he tells us. “Each of my artwork is inspired by the stupas and shrines in Patan that I visited.”
The stupa and Ganesh are recurring motifs in his watercolours, and the elephant gods are located in chaityas — reflecting the interplay and blending of the Hindu and Buddhist faiths in Kathmandu Valley.&nbsp;
The stupas and Ganesh are painted in vivid red, yellow, blue and green against abstract backgrounds meant to represent the sky.
“I use the sky as a backdrop because the sky has no border,” says Makela. “The four colours represent the four elements, the different Buddha families and also lights bouncing off of a rainbow.”
The use of just four colours for all the artwork stands out, and combined with the absence of heavy canvases, frames or stands render Makela’s art striking in its simplicity.&nbsp;
The Ganesh is always holding something and the art also portrays the elephant god’s sacred vehicle, the mouse.
While his vibrant stupas and Ganesh reflect the tangibility of Patan’s tradition and heritage, it is as if the backdrops with their shades of grey and red and yellow capture the soul of the city’s shrines.
“If you look closely, there is a sense of form and formlessness at the same time,” he says.&nbsp;
Makela walked 108 kora around the shrines during his exploration of the town, and in the process developed a spiritual connection with Patan’s heritage and traditions.&nbsp;
The exhibition connects with visitors on a deeper, more spiritual, level as well. And with it, they feel a sense of pride as well as the need to urgently preserve Patan’s heritage for future generations.
“Peter’s inclination and approach towards Nepali art and culture is fascinating, and it reflects in his work,” says Mcube curator Manish Lal Shrestha, whose international artist residency program promotes Nepal’s cultural heritage. &nbsp;&nbsp;
Yala Yatra: Walking, Working, Worshipping
1-5 August&nbsp;
10AM-7PM
Gallery Mcube, Patan

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Trailing off in Manang

Walking, working, worshipping in Patan