The town of Dapcha sits on a ridgeline stretching eastwards from the revered shrine of Namobuddha, its urbanscape left largely intact by inhabitants who have moved out. But as the only Newar settlement in the Valley’s proximity that retains its old character, Dapcha can prosper as a getaway for visitors. This must happen before the brick houses are replaced by painted cement structures, as elsewhere. Dapcha has survived, while Khokana, Bungamati, Sankhu, Banepa and other towns have lost their traditional character, either through rapid demographic change and modernisation, or the destruction of the April 2015 earthquake. Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/building-back-a-beyul-in-tsum">Building back a beyul in Tsum</a>, Sonam Lama  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230730050732_3e9d1c6fb117d277293ba7a84f0e2af3f4338f12a7dabaf6569d433c18b1e393.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="20230730050732_3e9d1c6fb117d277293ba7a84f0e2af3f4338f12a7dabaf6569d433c18b1e393" data-rendition-name="original" width="1500" height="1125" loading="lazy" alt="Dapcha’s old world charm awaits NT"> <figcaption>Autumn view of Jugal Himal from Dapcha, with Phulbari in the foreground. Photo: KANAK MANI DIXIT</figcaption> </figure>  While the surrounding villages of Kavre were damaged in the earthquake, geological good fortune left Dapcha largely intact. The 45 or so ancient buildings of brick, carved wood and mud mortar still stand, though weakened by age.&nbsp; Dapcha awaits entrepreneurs who understand the thirst of city folks for traditional Newar urbanscape, and international tourists who want to experience tangible and intangible heritage amidst the natural splendour of midhill Nepal. Om Krishna Shrestha, a recently retired bureaucrat, who owns one of the larger homes in Dapcha agrees that the preservation of his town requires quick investment to retrofit the townhouses and provide the interiors with modern spaces and amenities. "We can revive the town, homeowners like me are convinced of this," he says. Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/protecting-kathmandu-s-historic-roofscape">Protecting Kathmandu’s historic roofscape</a>, Anne Feenstra  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230730050732_8bf8db9de0ef8bd29e09d755c2c5f0b3d47ec65469dd35c854b7f06f409a83e4.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="20230730050732_8bf8db9de0ef8bd29e09d755c2c5f0b3d47ec65469dd35c854b7f06f409a83e4" data-rendition-name="original" width="2000" height="1500" loading="lazy" alt="Dapcha’s old world charm awaits NT"> <figcaption>Dapcha Chhatrebang bazaar in 2019. Photo: WIKIMEDIA</figcaption> </figure>  Dapcha’s main street is lined with old townhouses, and the settlement commands a view of 350km of peaks from Khumbu Himal to the Annapurnas. The surrounding hills and valleys are scenic, and the high Mahabharat Lek dominates the southern horizon. Nestled in a mountain cleft to the west of Dapcha is the shrine of Namobuddha, worshipped for what the jataka tales tell involve Shakyamuni Buddha. Namobuddha’s Newar community revers not one but three temples dedicated to Bhimsen, and the east end of the town has a Kalika Devi temple on a dramatic wooded hilltop. There are jatra all year around, with the biggest one centred on Krishna Janmasthami. The surrounding villages have Tamang, Dalit, Bahun and Chhetri inhabitants. Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/village-of-the-climbers">Village of the climbers</a>, Monika Deupala  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230730050744_4e2f937056560af60b4f51e7b1b70376c0a3e56a39ea5b22908895568fcddeba.jpg" data-media-id="editor_5" data-image-id="20230730050744_4e2f937056560af60b4f51e7b1b70376c0a3e56a39ea5b22908895568fcddeba" data-rendition-name="original" width="3000" height="1500" loading="lazy" alt="Dapcha Map NT"> </figure>  The long 2,500m high ridge on which Dapcha is located is more or less level, &nbsp;making it perfect for mountain biking. The nearby villages of Phulbari and Patlekhet are the centre of Nepal’s organic farming movement, and host frequent training programs. The seasons are marked by the tint of the terrace fields, from the yellow mustard in autumn to the green of mid-monsoon maize. Dapcha’s historical importance is as a trading town on the main route heading east from Kathmandu. Till just a decade ago, the trail nearby used to display ‘Jungay kos’ markers, indicating the distance from Hanuman Dhoka in Kathmandu.&nbsp; Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/eastern-nepal-s-mundum-landscape">Eastern Nepal’s Mundum landscape</a>, Achyut Tiwari and Ramesh Kumar Rai  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230730050732_1ad71b182324cfd44a0bf8c3660beb7faa83efef768a17ec3ca0705145f60922.jpg" data-media-id="editor_7" data-image-id="20230730050732_1ad71b182324cfd44a0bf8c3660beb7faa83efef768a17ec3ca0705145f60922" data-rendition-name="original" width="2000" height="1125" loading="lazy" alt="Dapcha’s old world charm awaits NT"> <figcaption>Newar elder of Dapcha. Photo: SAURAV THAPA SHRESTHA</figcaption> </figure>  Dapcha was on the route that pilgrims, traders, invaders and defenders used between the Valley and east Nepal, as also the Mithila region to the southeast via Sindhuli. Dapcha can emulate the 'tourism repurposing' of Bandipur, the other Newar settlement located on a high saddle midway between Kathmandu and Pokhara. There are other historical trading posts from Doti in the west to Chainpur in the east that could also pick up the example.&nbsp; Bandipur was left literally high and dry when the Tanahu district headquarters was moved down to Damauli during the Panchayat in 1968, with the opening of the Prithvi Highway. Traders and bureaucrats moved out, and for more than three decades Bandipur became a ghost town, until tourism experts came to the rescue.&nbsp; Read also:<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/the-other-abc-trek"> The Other ABC Trek</a>, Bimal Kandel  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230730050732_08c456b7269e3caf41f6a9ce8f5797033b7871c07fe93de7ea0913a57890740c.jpg" data-media-id="editor_9" data-image-id="20230730050732_08c456b7269e3caf41f6a9ce8f5797033b7871c07fe93de7ea0913a57890740c" data-rendition-name="original" width="1750" height="1313" loading="lazy" alt="Dapcha’s old world charm awaits NT"> <figcaption>Thoroughfare of the old town. Photo: KANAK MANI DIXIT</figcaption> </figure>  The first concrete activity to uplift Bandipur’s prospects was a brochure produced in 1998 with the help of the Partnership for Quality Tourism, researched and written by Ujwal Sherchan. Tourism entrepreneur and expert Dilendra Shrestha who helped in the revival of the Swotha neighbourhood in Patan also got involved with Bandipur.&nbsp; Says Shrestha, “Our job was to convince Bandipur homeowners, many of whom had moved to Narayanghat, that there was income from saving their ancient town. We persuaded them to preserve the old buildings, and &nbsp;convert the main thoroughfare into a pedestrian zone.” Dapcha is only two hours from Kathmandu via Dhulikhel, and is less compact than Bandipur although its buildings are taller and more ornate. Dapcha is now connected by well-built roads down to the BP Highway and to the Namobuddha shrine. Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/trails-less-travelled/" target="_blank">Trails less travelled</a>, Joy Stephens  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230730050732_af3b8e6baf219464c093a3850813ed7670cd3f4b8a5c34f317364385f0828b36.jpg" data-media-id="editor_11" data-image-id="20230730050732_af3b8e6baf219464c093a3850813ed7670cd3f4b8a5c34f317364385f0828b36" data-rendition-name="original" width="1500" height="1000" loading="lazy" alt="Dapcha’s old world charm awaits NT"> <figcaption>Dapcha marks Dya Pyakon jatra. Photo: Prajwol Shrestha</figcaption> </figure>  Successive mayors of Namobuddha Municipality of which Dapcha is a part (TP Sharma and the incumbent Kunsang Lama) are alert to the tourism possibilities, and have helped build two bypass tracks north and south so that the town can also have a pedestrian boulevard. Dapcha holds possibilities as a fine destination at a time when the mountain settlements of Nepal are &nbsp;losing their traditional architecture. What Dapcha needs is collaboration between home-owners, investors, conservation architects and marketing experts, to prove that preservation can bring prosperity.&nbsp; All it takes to start it off is a couple of townhouses to be retrofitted and converted. Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/nepal-s-other-attraction-the-night-sky">Nepal’s other attraction: the night sky</a>, Himali Dixit

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Dapcha’s old world charm awaits

<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108111152/636a35199c7e80680e048290jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="998"/><figcaption>Photos: SHEILIN TEO</figcaption></figure>The <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/page/Patan-town-as-a-museum-piece" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Patan Museum</a> is a must-visit among the draws of Kathmandu Valley: tastefully designed and informative, its curation is logical yet sensitive to the nuances of the richly-layered heritage and local traditions. Visitors can trace chronological lines in Nepal’s cultural history, and are guided to recognise stylistic themes in the faces of gods and goddesses and the iconography that they pass on the streets of the Valley’s old towns.Visitors get an introduction to the symbiosis of Hinduism and Buddhism in the Nepa civilisation. Besides the artifacts on display, the corridors provide an unassuming serenity, places of repose and leisure of rulers past. We see courtyards where the public would gather to celebrate, debate or venerate, and sense a graciousness, a deep attention to detail. And most striking: these are living traditions that carry on to the present day.Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/saving-kathmandus-past-for-the-future/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Saving Kathmandu's past for the future</a>, Sonia Awale<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108111152/636a351b9c7e80680e048291jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1250" height="1252">There is the bathing well, (tusha hiti) of King Siddhi Narasimha Malla in <a style="background-color: #ffffff; letter-spacing: 0.01em;" href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=17399#.XKXurlUzaUk" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Sundari Chok</a> with its gilded garuda spout. Or, a large display of a gilded pair of the Buddha’s hands, ‘calling the earth to witness’, depicting the moment he attained enlightenment.In these days of quick-fix concrete and steel, visitors sense a dwindling appreciation of lingering around a water well, resting on a courtyard ledge, or leaning in to admire the intricate carvings of a temple’s eaves.Which is why it is important to accept the invitation to spend a day at the museum, to explore, to rest, to compose one’s impressions of the city, and even rekindle the divine spark with greenery, nourishing food and inspiring architecture.Monuments are kept alive by their relevance to the community. In Nepal, they have been maintained by devotion: annual rites and festivals that ensure places of worship are regularly tended to and repaired by devotees. In cases where monuments are given into state care, they have often fallen into disrepair.Luckily, the team led by <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/nation/The-guardian-of-the-shadows-%20G%C3%B6tz%20Hagm%C3%BCller,3352" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Austrian architect Götz Hagmüller</a> that was given the charge to restore Patan Durbar in the 1990s, took to the task with an intention to turn the palace complex into a self-sustaining cultural institution, capable of withstanding not just natural shakeups but also political instability.In its modernisation into a world-class cultural treasure, the palace complex underwent a significant rearrangement to house not only artifacts, but a constant flow of people within what would once have been quiet, private quarters of the royal court. Amid the mostly faithful restoration of the palace to its Malla heritage, the Patan Museum also features a clutch of modern elements: new materials and motifs seamlessly worked into the intricate historical fabric of the East Wing’s Malla and <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/the-rana-reign-a-recap-of-history,3751" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Rana styles</a>. As part of the rearrangement, a graceful timber staircase leads from a new foyer to a stunning display of iconic tundaal: intricately carved timber struts featuring deities in various poses.The columns and capitals supporting the restored Rana-style wing are detailed in steel and timber, to clean modernist lines, and hold their own within the simple brick and white plastered detailing of the period. They also feature a postmodern take on the scrolls of old Newa capitals, reinterpreting the decorative art of traditions past, whilst acknowledging the architectural language of the restoration’s own timeline. At the Museum Café, new metal-roofed pavilions also feature similar modern detailing in timber, a graceful reminder within the new construction of its heritage.The restoration efforts that led to the establishment of Patan’s Royal Palace as a public museum in 1997 features modern twists on traditional motifs, designed in timber and steel by Hagmüller’s team. The clean lines and geometric postmodern interpretation of decorative Newa carving presents a nod to the architectural language of the restoration’s own timeline.Patan Museum8am-6.30pmCourtyards and access to the Museum Cafe are open 7am-6.30pm.Entry fees to the Museum:Foreigners: Rs1,000 (included in Patan entry fee)SAARC: Rs250Nepali Rs30Nepali Students Rs5 (with ID)<a href="http://www.patanmuseum.gov.np/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">http://www.patanmuseum.gov.np/</a>Read also:<a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/In-perfect-harmony,3251" target="_blank" rel="noopener">In perfect harmony</a>, Sahina Shrestha<a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=15470#.XKXxaFUzaUl" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Ancient mordern</a>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ViWX21zLjVQ&amp;feature=youtu.be<h2>Heritage gastronomy</h2><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108111152/636a351f9c7e80680e048292jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1250" height="833"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>Ever since it opened more than 20 years ago, <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/patan-museum-updated,1304" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Patan Museum</a> has been a quiet sanctuary hidden away from the densely-packed city outside. And in a tranquil, leafy corner of the complex is an oasis within an oasis: the Patan Museum Café.Under new management by Dwarika’s Hotel, the restaurant offers a delectable selection of continental cuisine, as well as finessed pickings of Nepali and Asian dishes. The menu features healthy salads, brunch specialties, snacks and full-portioned meals, hinting at the raison d’être of the place: all-day dining, whether you choose to start, continue or end your day at the museum.Lush greenery reaches up to rooflines of weathered jhingati tiles. Artfully contained shrubs spread against the geometric curves of patterned brick and into dining nooks and inviting enclosures. Low-slung pavilions reminiscent of Patan’s many resting platforms (pati) provide shady private cubicles, as do cafe-style umbrellas dappled with shadowplay as the trees dance with the wind.Austrian <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/blogs/thebrief/2016/06/15/gotz-hagmuller-awarded/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">restoration architect Götz Hagmüller</a> also transformed the Kaiser Café in the Garden of Dreams in Thamel into the popular destination it is today. It seems fitting, then, that both these treasured historic restorations now feature bars and cafés managed by Dwarika’s Hotel whose revenues contribute to the upkeep of the sites. Patan Museum Café now has a menu and service that places quality and consistency foremost.Read also:<a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/nation/The-guardian-of-the-shadows-%20G%C3%B6tz%20Hagm%C3%BCller,3352" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The guardian of the shadows</a>, Sebastian Gansrigler<a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=19497#.XKXvEFUzaUk" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Living in Bhaktapur the Austrian way</a><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108111152/636a35229c7e80680e048293jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="476" height="1024">Museum menuOrganic produce from Dwarika’s own organic farm in Dhulikel features on the cafe menu.Caprese saladCreamy buffalo mozzarella, organic tomatoes and torn holy basil, drizzled with rich, flavourful olive oil, and a selection of viscous balsamic or crisp white wine vinegar to liven the palate.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108111152/636a35259c7e80680e048294jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1250" height="1671">Baked Jalkapur fish with quinoa and vegetable saladA sweet sticky sauce accentuates the mouthwatering caramelisation of a fried Jalkapur fillet, cooked to moist, breakaway softness. Soft quinoa and hearty vegetables complete the healthy ensemble.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108111152/636a35289c7e80680e048295jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1250" height="938">Shrimp bisqueA rich bisque, perfectly sweet and buttery, with pieces of cooked shrimp and a hint of cream, garnished with a sprig of micro herbs.AffogatoA generous double shot of espresso with a double scoop of vanilla ice cream, served in style in a martini glass.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108111152/636a352c9c7e80680e048296jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1250" height="1568"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>Almond chocolate cakeA luscious log of nutty chocolate cake, smothered in rich chocolate ganache, accompanied by an assortment of fresh fruits and slivered almonds.Read also:<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/nepoli-nepali/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Napoli Nepali</a>, Kunda Dixit<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/northeast-indian-cuisine-is-a-hot-new-sensation-in-nepal/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Northeast Indian cuisine is a hot new sensation in Nepal</a>, Sewa Bhattarai

Patan's museum piece

<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110714118/636904049c7e80680e037cf9jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1400" height="934"/><figcaption>OLD TO NEW: Barpak before the earthquake destroyed most of its buildings, and today with its haphazard modern concrete structures.</figcaption></figure><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110714118/636904089c7e80680e037cfajpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1400" height="934"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>B<a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/nation/back-in-barpak-after-eight-months-of-earthquake,2744" target="_blank" rel="noopener">arpak</a> was at the epicentre of a 7.8 magnitude earthquake three years ago, and due to media attention it also became <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/nation/epicenter-barpak-born-again,2998" target="_blank" rel="noopener">the epicentre of reconstruction</a>.Residents mostly have relatives in the British and Indian armies, did not have the cash-crunch faced by survivors elsewhere. The town quickly rebuilt itself.While most displaced families were still <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/nation/genuine-earthquake-survivors-missing-from-housing-grant-list%20,3498" target="_blank" rel="noopener">waiting for their first installment of housing grants</a> from the National Reconstruction Authority (NRA), most residents of Barpak were already living in their new houses.The scenic town in northern Gorkha made famous because it is the hometown of Victoria Cross soldier Gaje Ghale, has now completely recovered from the earthquake. More than 1,200 of the 1,301 houses destroyed have already been rebuilt, homestay tourism is thriving and remittance money is everywhere.Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/the-baker-of-barpak/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The baker of Barpak</a>, Tara Aryal PandeyHowever, Barpak is no more the picturesque ridgetop hamlet with stone buildings and elegant tile roofs. Barpak used to be a living museum of Gurung culture. The charm of the cobble stone streets and a settlement that existed in harmony with its surrounding mountains are a thing of the past.Today, Barpak looks like a clutter of concrete and cement, with architecture that is borrowed from the nondescript boxy construction that characterise Nepal’s highway towns. Every house is of a different size, design and shape.<a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/nation/Epicentre-of-reconstruction,2286" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Bir Bahadur Ghale</a> is Barpak’s forward-looking pioneer of rural electrification, but even he is sorry he could not stop the erosion of the town’s heritage. He laments: “Our village has completely lost its original identity. Our children will see the original Barpak only in old pictures.”Read also: '<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/?p=11912&amp;preview=true" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Class struggle</a>', Prakriti KandelThe main reason Barpak and other old towns have lost their traditional ambience is because the NRA insisted that families would only be eligible for government grants of Rs300,000 if they rebuilt by following its list of approved designs. But none of the listed blueprints included traditional motifs in the architecture.Just like in any other earthquake affected village, NRA engineers lacked an understanding of local culture and traditional grammar, drawing up generic seismic-resistant house designs.Some Barpak residents rang the alarm bell, warning fellow villagers that blindly following the government-approved house designs would lead to the loss of their unique identity. But no one listened.Read also: '<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/?p=11917&amp;preview=true" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Fired, hired, rehired</a>', Om Astha RaiIn a bid to rebuild Barpak without losing its heritage but still adopting seismic resistant technology, some local residents led by Bir Bahadur Ghale had proposed a reconstruction masterplan. But it was not approved by the government.Ghale recalls: “Our masterplan was neither rejected nor approved. It was kept in limbo for almost a year, and people could not wait. Barpak looks very colourful now. But it is not the same Barpak.”Jit Bahadur Ghale, another local resident, also tried to persuade neighbours to stick to their original architecture. But no one listened to him. He says: “Barpak lost its identity because outsiders imposed new designs on us.”Besides the compulsion to follow government-approved design, there was also a false realisation that Barpak’s original housing style was vulnerable to future earthquakes since most of the original buildings were flattened by the earthquake, killing 72 people. Many were crushed to death by stones and slates.People in Barpak used to stack up stone slates to roof their houses without using nails or hooks. After the earthquake, they realised that such practice would be a hazard in future earthquakes. And NRA engineers lacked creativity to infuse earthquake-resistant technology with Barpak’s unique architecture.Barpak residents whose relatives served in the British Army or are working in Hong Kong and Kathmandu, therefore, built modern concrete structures. Some, who did not have money, built <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/building-homes-on-a-deadline/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">small and one-roomed homes</a> with the material salvaged from the ruins of their houses, just so they could get the government grant. Such houses do not meet their living requirement, and they are likely to be converted into cattle sheds.Read also:<a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/regular-columns/Between-the-lines/epicentre-of-reconstruction-barpak-after-earthquake,493" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Epicenter of reconstruction</a>,  Tering Dolker Gurung<a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/nation/epicenter-barpak-born-again,2998" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Barpak born again</a>,  Santa Gaha Magar<a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/nation/back-in-barpak-after-eight-months-of-earthquake,2744" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Back in Barpak</a>,  Ayesha Shakya

Lost in reconstruction

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Dapcha’s old world charm awaits

Patan's museum piece

Lost in reconstruction