COURTESY 
Vispassana meditation is one of the most popular courses pilgrims taken in Nepal. Light and quite rooms are enough for concentration.

 

The assurance of a calm and peaceful mind and the ability to better handle life's ups and downs have Nepalis and foreigners flocking to meditation retreats around the country.

Those seeking a spiritual experience in Nepal have increased significantly over the last ten years, and meditation tourism is now nearly on par with trekking. Last year, nine percent of all tourist arrivals to Nepal were for pilgrimage purposes compared to 11 per cent for trekking.

A substantial portion of pilgrims came to attend meditation and yoga courses at ashrams and monasteries in Nepal. Among the most popular  is Vipassana meditation, even though it involves a strict, ten-day schedule that includes meditating ten hours a day and abstaining from talking.

Angelique van Leeuwen (pic, right), a 38-year-old writer and photographer from Holland, completed a ten-day course in August. "It was tough but do-able," she says, "my mind was on 24/7 overdrive, and Vipassana was intense, but the technique made me more focused, I feel more calm."

Angelique van Leeuwen from Holland completed a ten-day course of meditation.
With the celebrations and indulgences of Dasain and Tihar behind them, a lot of Nepalis are also joining the courses to detoxify their minds and bodies. Roop Jyoti, a Vipassana meditation guru, says the technique teaches people how not to get upset in life.

"People are looking for peace of mind," Jyoti explains, "after you sit through a course you can deal with your anger and fear and emotions in a better way, it cleans your mind of all the impurities, and also makes you physically healthy."

Vipassana is an ancient meditation technique taught and practiced by the Buddha 2,500 years ago, and it was revived and popularised in India in 1969. There are now Vipassana mediation centres in 25 countries, and in Nepal they are in Lumbini, Pokhara, Birganj, Chitwan, Surkhet, and Kathmandu.

During a course, students are taught a breathing technique called anapana before progressing to Vipassana which literally means 'to see things as they really are'. The aim is to develop a calm and equanimous mind by observing the breath and sensations in the body to subdue craving and aversion.

MIN RATNA BAJRACHARYA
Last year, nine percent of all tourist arrivals to Nepal were for pilgrimage purposes compared to 11 per cent for trekking.
But with a demanding daily schedule that includes rising at 4am and ten hours of seated meditation, Vipassana is not for the faint hearted or weak willed. There are five 'sila' (moral rules) which students must follow: not to kill, lie, steal, undertake sexual misconduct or consume intoxicants.

They must also abstain from making eye-contact, reading or writing and, perhaps the most difficult for some, maintain noble silence, only talking about the technique with teachers.

Despite the intensity of the sessions, the number of people attending Vipassana courses has grown in the Kapan centre alone from 2,500 people three years ago to nearly 5,000 last year. When the centre started in 1981, most of those taking the course were Buddhists, now all religions and nationalities take part.

"People in their 80s are coming, teenagers, medical doctors, and professionals, males and females, it is very diverse," Jyoti says.

After reading about Vipassana in a newspaper 15 years ago, Nanda Kumar Sharma felt compelled to enroll. Since then the 44-year-old has completed nine more courses and is currently a volunteer administrator at the centre.
"At the time I was feeling nervous and my mind was very stressed," says Sharma, who meditates daily to better manage stress and attends a ten-day course nearly every year.

Where to meditate

VIPASSANA MEDITATION
Eight meditation centres in Nepal offer 10, 20, 30 and 45-day, and children's courses.
Cost: By donation, food and accommodation included.
Contact: Jyoti Bhawan, Kantipath +977 1 4250581
nvc@mail.com.np

KOPAN MONASTERY
Seven and ten-day introductory Tibetan Buddhism and meditation courses run monthly March-October at Kopan Monastery, Kathmandu. Other courses available.
Cost: $80/$110 including food and accommodation.
Contact: + 977 1 4821268, kopan@mail.com.np

GANDEN YIGA CHOZIN
Weekend introductory Tibetan Buddhist courses and retreats in
Kaski District, Pokhara.
Cost: Rs 4,500 including food and accommodation.
Contact: +977 61 462923, +977 9846397646 

HIMALAYAN BUDDHIST MEDITATION CENTRE
Weekly introductory meditation classes in Mahayana Buddhism and guided meditation classes at Hotel Himalaya Yoga, Thamel, Kathmandu.
Cost: Some free classes, weekly courses Rs 1,000
Contact: +977 1 4700852, +977 9803254704
hbmc.programs@gmail.com

See also:
Now, meditation tourism, DORJI TSERING SHERPA in KASKI
Once is not enough for Dhamma Pokhara's vipassana courses

Meditating in 'Mandu, IRENE PERONI
Spiritual retreats are still one of Nepal's main tourist draws

Navel-gazing in Nepal, SALIL SUBEDI