If you want a glimpse into the lives of Nepali migrant workers, fly with them. Avoid the more expensive routes, and opt for the NAC direct flight to Kuala Lumpur, or the more time-consuming route through Dhaka. What one gets is a crash course in Nepal's ethnic diversity, economic stagnation, failed politics, and the survival skills of its citizens.
As a meal was served on our way to Dhaka, I looked across to my co-passenger, who was slouched in his seat, staring blankly ahead. He saw me peel off the cover from the meal box, and get a fork out. With an eye on my tray, he cautiously did the same with his own, then smiled. "Ke garne? This is my first time."
Lakhandar Mukhia was from a small village in Saptari and was going to work "in a company". He explained how he landed the job. "I used to hang around the village doing nothing. An agent was looking for people and came to the village. My father said I should go. We paid him 70,000 last month and he organised this." I asked him if he knew where he would be working in Malaysia or which city he was flying to. He shook his head. "Someone will be there to take us." Returning to his food, he murmured, "But I am very scared?"
Mukhia was just one of the 6335 people who left to work in Malaysia between mid-October and November this year. He was understandably nervous, but if those who return are any indication, don't be surprised if that changes soon.
A few days later, at the Kuala Lumpur departure lounge, I met Mohammed Sadiq, from Kharchaiya in Saptari. Sadiq had been working in a furniture company in Malaysia for five years. He earned about 30 Ringgit a day, and worked seven days a week for twelve hours each. Sadiq managed to save between 400-500 RM every month ? approximately Rs 10,000.
Was he happy?
"Ke khushi, what happiness? I spend all my time in the factory and both my Chinese owner and Tamil supervisor are cold-hearted and mean. They do not even allow me to pray regularly or go to the mosque. I have four children, and I haven't seen them for over two years. The money is good and I have paid off my family's debts. But because of other emergency expenses, I have not even been able to build a house or buy land."