<figure><img width="2128" height="1416" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181124/636be3129c7e80680e083ee4jpeg.jpg" alt=""/><figcaption>All photos: SANU RAJA MAHARJAN</figcaption></figure>Traditionally celebrated with much vigour and enthusiasm, the Kartik Nach performance in Patan Durbar, revived to 12 days after many decades last year, was cut short and subdued this year because of the pandemic.Organisers did not admit any visitors and sealed off the ancient square during the dance that was limited to two days. <img width="1672" height="2505" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181124/636be3159c7e80680e083ee5jpeg.jpg" alt=""><img width="1960" height="1309" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181124/636be3189c7e80680e083ee6jpeg.jpg" alt="">“It took a lot of convincing to get the dancers to perform this year, due to the coronavirus scare, especially as parents of minors were unrelenting,” says Kiran Chitrakar, chairperson of the Kartik Nach Conservation Committee. “The moral stories require crowds to learn from them and the absence of an audience was a demotivating factor.”Kartik Nach is one of the oldest and consistently staged pyakha in Patan started by King Siddhi Narsingh Malla in the mid 17th century to educate people on their civic duty through dance drama. It takes its name from the lunar month of Kartik and is staged at Kartik Dabu, the elevated platform in Patan Darbar Square.  <img width="1740" height="2606" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181124/636be31b9c7e80680e083ee7jpeg.jpg" alt=""><img width="2128" height="1416" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181124/636be31f9c7e80680e083ee8jpeg.jpg" alt=""><img width="2128" height="1416" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181128/636be3239c7e80680e083ee9jpeg.jpg" alt="">In the number of days that Kartik Nach spans, there are separate segments of different dance dramas with performers portraying various Hindu deities, told in the format of episodes. Last year it was held for 12 days after being revived by Patan’s current mayor Chiri Babu Maharjan. The annual tradition with such high historical and cultural importance runs on a shoestring budget and has been struggling even before the pandemic. <img width="2008" height="3008" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181128/636be3279c7e80680e083eeajpeg.jpg" alt=""><img width="640" height="427" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181128/636be32a9c7e80680e083eebjpeg.jpg" alt=""><img width="1408" height="940" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181128/636be32d9c7e80680e083eecjpeg.jpg" alt="">Lalitpur Metropolitan City provides Rs200,000 for the annual performance but it is insufficient to support the dance crew, and this time, according to Chitrakar the finances have not come through yet.

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Patan’s dance of the deities

<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141124/636a587f9c7e80680e05483bjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="3000" height="1886"/><figcaption>All photos: SAMIR SHRESTHA</figcaption></figure>As Kathmandu got ready to celebrate Yenya Punhi (Indra Jatra) with its Kumari chariot procession last week, the masked dancers were also getting ready for their popular street performances.Laxman Ranjit was inside the Lakhey House in the Basantapur Square in Kathmandu, preparing for the ritual. The dancers do not just don masks, leg bells, and colourful flowing skirts, they have to actually go into a divine trance where they become the embodiment of the gods and demons they represent.Whoever wears the mask gets energy from it, and is consumed by its holy aura. As other devotees help Laxman Ranjit get dressed up, his demeanour changes. It looks like the spirit is already entering his body.Finally, a white turban is wrapped on his head which will hold the mask on his head. Four men  hold Ranjit on either side to restrain him as the red lakhey mask is put on.As he is led to the door, there are some rituals to perform: an oil lamp is waved in front of his face as Ranjit’s body starts to shake – at first imperceptibly, but with more and more energy.  Outside on the street, hundreds of people are waiting eagerly for the first lakheys to emerge, as they have for centuries before.Once out of the Lakhey House Laxman Ranjit’s energy explodes like a volcano. The shouts and screams of the crowd seems to energise him even more as he leaps, and spins like a dervish.Masked dancers are ordinary people going about their daily jobs the rest of the year, but at Indra Jatra, designated masked dancers are possessed by the divine spirit and can change into powerful demons or gods just by putting on the holy mask.It is the power of faith, devotion and a responsibility to carry on the culture of their forebears that keeps this festival of the Kathmandu Valley Civilisation alive.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141124/636a58829c7e80680e05483cjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="3000" height="1762"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141124/636a58859c7e80680e05483djpeg.jpg" alt="" width="3000" height="1887"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141124/636a58889c7e80680e05483ejpeg.jpg" alt="" width="3000" height="1869"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141124/636a588c9c7e80680e05483fjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="3000" height="1765"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141124/636a588f9c7e80680e054840jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="3000" height="1950"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141124/636a58929c7e80680e054841jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="3000" height="1933"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141124/636a58959c7e80680e054842jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="3000" height="1993">Read also:<a style="background-color: #ffffff; font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 0.01em;" href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/kathmandu-celebrates-yenya/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Kathmandu celebrates Yenyā</a>, Monika Deupala

Getting behind the divine mask

<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141112/636a56639c7e80680e054787jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="1000"/>Hindu women celebrate Tij all over Nepal, wearing red saris, jingling red bangles and colorful ornaments. They sway to the beat of Tij songs, as they fast all day.Traditionally, women of Nepal celebrated Tij for the long life of their husband or to find a good husband. Shiva temples all over the country are flooded with devotees today as women wait in line for hours to pray and get blessings from lord Shiva.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141112/636a56679c7e80680e054788jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="1000"><figcaption>Women gather at Sanga, Bhaktapur, on 2 Sep 2019 to celebrate Tij. Photos: Monika Deupala</figcaption></figure><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141112/636a566a9c7e80680e054789jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="5616" height="3744"><figcaption>Women dress up in colorful ornaments for the day.</figcaption></figure><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141112/636a566e9c7e80680e05478ajpeg.jpg" alt="" width="5616" height="3744"><figcaption>A woman's plate full of offerings for the worship.</figcaption></figure><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141112/636a56729c7e80680e05478bjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="1000"><figcaption>Most women dress up in red for the day, which is considered an auspicious colour.</figcaption></figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141112/636a56769c7e80680e05478cjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="1000"><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141112/636a567a9c7e80680e05478djpeg.jpg" alt="" width="5616" height="3744"><figcaption>A woman puts on auspicious red tika on her forehead for Tij.</figcaption></figure><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141112/636a567e9c7e80680e05478ejpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="1000"><figcaption>A woman prays at Doleshwar temple, Bhaktapur.</figcaption></figure><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141112/636a56829c7e80680e05478fjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="5616" height="3744"><figcaption>A woman on the premises of Doleshwar temple, Bhaktapur.</figcaption></figure><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141112/636a56869c7e80680e054790jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="5616" height="3744"><figcaption>A woman whispers into the ears of Nandi, Lord Shiva's bull, in the hope that he will get her wishes to the god faster.</figcaption></figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141112/636a568b9c7e80680e054791jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="5616" height="3744"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141116/636a56909c7e80680e054792jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="1000"><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141116/636a56939c7e80680e054793jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="5616" height="3744"><figcaption>Women dance to entertain themselves during their fast on the day of Tij.</figcaption></figure>

Women celebrate Tij

<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108131140/636a4e309c7e80680e04fca0jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2274" height="1536"/>Human trafficking makes for dramatic stories of suffering, struggle and survival, which is why it is frequently the theme on stage and screen performances. But few, perhaps, with the grace and poignancy of The Flight, presented by Solis Performing Arts and One World Theatre at the Russian Cultural Centre 4-7 July.This immersive musical dance-drama directed by Alizé  Biannic portrays not just the victimisation of young women and their emotional journeys, but tells their story through contemporary European-style dance steps.The sheer physicality of the play makes the strongest impression, whether it is the women with the trembling knees, the exhibition of half-dressed, cowering women in front of leering men who, measuring each woman with their eyes and hands, menacingly circle them and haul them over their shoulders like sacks of potatoes.Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/review/all-the-world-is-a-stage-in-kathmandu/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">All the world is a stage</a>, Sewa BhattaraiWith minimal dialogue, every emotion -- terror, anger, guilt, hope -- is communicated  through body movements, which is fitting because the subject matter revolves around physical relationships. Every action sequence has been framed carefully for visual appeal even when the emotions depicted are negative.“I wanted every scene to look like a painting, because visual impact is very important in such a performance,” explained director Biannic, who trained the actors, most of whom Nepali non-dancers, in ballet-inspired moves so that they look almost as graceful as her.The play does not just take us through the physical journeys of the characters, but also their emotional, spiritual and psychological ones. It starts with a young man whose family is involved in the ‘flesh trade’, and he wonders if he should join in. His journey begins with confusion, then acceptance, then guilt and finally abandonment of this trafficking activity.Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/review/private-is-political/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Private is political</a>, Sewa Bhattarai<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108131140/636a4e349c7e80680e04fca1jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="843"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>“I want to depict the phenomenon from many aspects, including the story of how young men are unwittingly trapped in this vicious circle. Violence breeds violence, and you cannot expect love out of someone who has never seen it. This creates a chain of negativity where young men reproduce the behaviour they have seen,” says Biannic who met with several trafficking victims before writing and directing this play.She wants to draw attention to continued trafficking of Nepali women to brothels in Nepal and abroad. The journey of the women is artfully invoked through symbols and visual metaphors. An eagle, a bird associated with power and spirituality, brings hope to the women. The women bathe, suggesting a spiritual cleansing even when their bodies have been defiled. The women look for an escape from their hell, their bodies writhing and contorting with agony. When they together overcome their pain, the choreography  turns fluid and lithe.Read also: <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/nation/why-is-female-sexuality-still-a-taboo-in-Nepal,2908" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Taboo no more</a>, Ayesha ShakyaBiannic has blended classical Tchaikovsky and Stravinsky to create an intense background score that plunges and soars with the storyline. This and the ballet lends the production a strong European flavour, but the story and performance packs an emotional punch that is distinctly Nepali.The FlightDirected by Alizé BiannicRussian Cultural Center4-7 July, 1:30 PM &amp; 6:00 PM<h2>Biannic brings new edge to the Nepali stage</h2>With her flitting butterfly moves and gravity-defying leaps, Alizé Biannic is mesmerising on stage. The ballet-trained artist’s approach to dance may be European, but her animated conversation and emotionally charged approach to art certainly strikes a chord here in Nepal. The French national has been living here for the past six years, creating and acting in plays that have added a cosmopolitan flavour to Nepali theatre.Biannic started learning dance when she was 13 in Germany and Spain before working at The Royal Ballet in London. She developed her own style which merged acting and dancing because she thinks the combination works better. In 2013, she came to Nepal to take a year off, and has stayed here ever since.She met a child while working in a Kathmandu orphanage who is acting in her current production, The Flight. “I realised that I wanted to work with people who are clear and open minded because it made me realise that my life was missing something,” confesses Biannic. “I want my life to have meaning, which I found in Nepal.”<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108131140/636a4e379c7e80680e04fca2jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="960">Biannic takes the same approach to her work, where she likes to imbue every frame with meaning. Her actors do not just stand in the background, their body positions and movements are minutely choreographed, conveying specific emotions relevant to the scenes. Each person or object has a well-defined role to play in every scene, and every frame looks like a painting.Biannic recently opened Solis Performing Arts, a school which teaches dance, acting and music. And when she is not teaching, she is acting or directing, and has since produced six plays and acted in others, including Arjuna’s Dilemma.“I want to make the best of available resources to create quality drama right here in Nepal,” says Biannic, while adjusting the props, lighting, music, and costumes during a dress rehearsal on Wednesday. “Proper attention to technical details really raises the quality of production, and that should not be neglected.”

Dance-drama takes trafficking head-on

https://youtu.be/1Ur3EvdiaikDevotees lined up inside the Tashi Chhyoling Gumba of Nalma village, Lamjung, recently on Buddha Jayanti to prepare the Ghatu dance. Interestingly, although the day begins with offerings and lamps for the Buddha, the dance begins by invoking Hindu gods.Ghatu seems to bring many cultures and languages together across the mountains of Central Nepal. In Nalma village, a two-hour ride from the district headquarter of Besishahar, four young girls are dressing up in traditional Gurung costumes to prepare for the dance. The rituals actually begin in January on the festival of Shree Panchami, when the dancers are selected. They are then trained until the performance starts on Buddha Jayanti, and goes on for up to a week. <img width="575" height="1024" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108121144/636a41ef9c7e80680e04a6a4jpeg.jpg" alt=""/>On full moon day the dancers line up in a community building at the center of the village, and begin swaying slowly to the music as village elders sing to the beat of the madal. Ghatu tells the tragic story of King Pashramu and Queen Yambawati: Pashramu goes on a hunt, meets and marries Yambawati, and they have a child. Pashramu is killed in action, Yambawati self-immolates on her husband's pyre. The dance climaxes with Yambawati's grief as she gives up her kingdom, says goodbye to her little son, and embraces death. The dancers go into a trembling trance as they perform for hours.Ghatu dance is performed all over central Nepal by Gurung, Magar, Dura, Balami and Kumal communities. But no one is sure how it originated. "It was passed down to us by our ancestors, but they did not tell us where they learnt it or how it began," says Jung Bahadur Gurung, dance teacher in Nalma. "People believe it's based on a local story, and that Pashramu and Yambawati were a local Gurung king and queen."Gurung knows the songs, but says he does not know what language they are in. It sounds like Tharu or Bhojpuri, languages spoken in southern Nepal. Since Pashramu meets Yambawati when he is out hunting and far away from his mountain homeland, some people speculate that queen Yambawati was a woman from the Tarai and brought the songs with her. The Gurungs also do not have the practice of sati depicted in the dance. Considering this and other factors, folk music expert Kishor Gurung concludes that Ghatu was actually brought to Nepal by Lahures who went to India. "Nepali soldiers who joined the British Indian armies must have brought it back with them 150-200 years ago."Professor Yubaraj Gurung thinks the dance is essentially a way for the community to comes to terms with pain and relate it to Yambawati's grief. But there is agreement on what makes the dancers go into a trance as they dance with their eyes closed, swaying slowly to the music."The dancers sometimes don't even know the story, but go with the flow and where the music takes them," says folk music researcher Jhuma Limbu who is making a documentary about Ghatu. "It is a matter of great pride that music which explores the depths of human psychology is still alive in Nepal. We must do our best to preserve it." <img width="2000" height="1123" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108121148/636a41f29c7e80680e04a6a5jpeg.jpg" alt="">As with most folk art, this music has been passed down and preserved orally, and it is known to affect the dancers anytime it is played. Grown women who were former dancers sometimes fall into a trance when they hear the music. Villagers here forbid recording the music, and the performances only happen at designated times.With the march of time, interest is waning in such lengthy dances when other means of entertainment are easily available, says musician Raju Gurung: "It is a very sad that people are losing interest in the ritual part of the dance and it is becoming more and more commercialised. We love our dance very much and would like to preserve it, but it is a losing battle."

Ghatu dance of Lamjung

<figure><img width="1500" height="1020" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108121140/636a40819c7e80680e04a625jpeg.jpg" alt=""/><figcaption>Nyatapola Temple</figcaption></figure>Located at the heart of Bhaktapur in Taumadi, Nyatapola is the tallest temple in Nepal at 30 metres. This five-storey 18th century Malla-era temple, also listed in the World Heritage Site, is a shrine of goddess Siddilaxmi, considered a manifestation of tantric power. The temple took seven months to complete between 1701 to 1702 BS, and did not suffer any major damage in the 2015 earthquake.Himalayan Destinations recently organised a cultural night where 34 foreigners dressed in traditional Newari customs showcased Newa lifestyle. Mahakali dance was performed during the program. <figure><img width="1500" height="879" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108121140/636a40859c7e80680e04a626jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption>A woman weaves traditional fabric in front of the temple</figcaption></figure><figure><img width="1500" height="1000" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108121140/636a40899c7e80680e04a627jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption>A woman plaits straw to make a mat</figcaption></figure><figure><img width="1500" height="865" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108121140/636a408d9c7e80680e04a628jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption>An elderly woman spins thread out of cotton balls</figcaption></figure><figure><img width="1500" height="1022" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108121140/636a40909c7e80680e04a629jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption>Women in traditional Newar costume Haku Patasi demonstrate the way of making chiura or beaten rice using large wooden mortar and pestles</figcaption></figure><figure><img width="1500" height="946" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108121140/636a40939c7e80680e04a62ajpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption>A woman prepares food in an earthern pot over traditional Newari mud stove </figcaption></figure><figure><img width="1500" height="959" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108121140/636a40969c7e80680e04a62bjpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption>Locals display pottery from Bhaktapur's famous pottery square</figcaption></figure><figure><img width="1500" height="1000" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108121140/636a409a9c7e80680e04a62cjpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption>Artists perform Mahakali dance, a traditional masked dance from Bhaktapur</figcaption></figure><figure><img width="1500" height="1018" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108121140/636a409d9c7e80680e04a62djpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption>Children participate in the Mahakali dance</figcaption></figure><figure><img width="1500" height="1000" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108121140/636a40a09c7e80680e04a62ejpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption>Mahakali dance</figcaption></figure>All photos: Bharatbandhu Thapa

dance

Patan’s dance of the deities

Getting behind the divine mask

Women celebrate Tij

Dance-drama takes trafficking head-on

Ghatu dance of Lamjung

Nyatapola alight