For the Sherpa people who live below Mt Everest, <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/margins/songs-from-chomolungma">Chomolungma </a>means ‘mother god’. And as a young girl growing up below it, Lhakpa Sherpa gazed up at the mountain with awe and reverence.&nbsp; <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/review/pasang-lhamu-sherpa-the-film">Pasang Lhamu Sherpa</a> was the first Nepali woman to reach the summit in 1993, but she died on the way down. Lhakpa remembers the funeral in Kathmandu, and says she sensed Pasang Lhamu’s soul enter her at the cremation.&nbsp; Since then, Lhakpa holds the <a href="https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/most-ascents-of-mt-everest-by-a-woman#:~:text=At%20the%20age%20of%2048,at%206.15%20a.m.%20local%20time.">Guiness World Record</a> for having climbed Mt Everest ten times, the most by any woman anywhere, and breaking her own record several times. Lhakpa Sherpa seeks Chomolungma’s blessings and forgiveness before and after every climb. Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/the-rise-and-fall-of-nims-purja">The rise and fall of Nims Purja</a>, Pradnya Pradhan “I respect the mountain like my mom,” she says in the new Netflix documentary Mountain Queen: Summits of Lhakpa Sherpa.&nbsp; The film is as much about Lhakpa’s skill and stamina as a high altitude climber, as about her courage to stand up to an abusive husband and the strength to raise three children as a single mother working in a Whole Foods Market in the US state of Connecticut. &nbsp; Directed by Lucy Walker who excels in documenting real life characters, the 104 minute film provides viewers with an intimate glimpse of Lhakpa’s home, conversations with her daughters, and some spectacular footage of her climbing in Everest’s Death Zone. Walker removes layer upon layer of Lhakpa’s life to introduce us to the real person that she is.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20240910120952_549f2ebdc425038deb78854480449122da0890957389aa86b6a612bf91d33ec3.jpg" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="20240910120952_549f2ebdc425038deb78854480449122da0890957389aa86b6a612bf91d33ec3" data-rendition-name="original" width="450" height="630" loading="lazy" alt="Mountain Queen Lhakpa Sherpa NT2"> </figure>  As a girl Lhakpa was a headstrong girl, and says her mother used to call her “too tough, too tall and very, very bossy” – and that is exactly how she comes across in the film. But behind the toughness and cheerful smile, Lhakpa is a soft-hearted person who has been in search of love and healing all her life. Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/review/on-screen-mountains">On-screen mountains</a>, Sahina Shrestha Lhakpa was a social misfit, but found her true calling in mountaineering. She started out as a porter carrying up to 100kg on her back -- double her body weight. She had to pretend to be a boy since women did not get jobs with expeditions back then. Then, she was promoted to be a kitchen boy, cooking for the climbers in base camps.&nbsp; She needed money to climb but nobody at the time was sponsoring a woman. A chance meeting with King Birendra and Prime Minister Girija Prasad Koirala got her the sponsorship she needed in 2000 to lead an all-women Nepali Everest expedition. She reached the top for the first time, the only climber from her group to do so. Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/review/streaming-the-himalaya-on-film">Streaming the Himalaya on film</a>, Pinki Sris Rana Her goal achieved, that should have been it. But Lhakpa was hopelessly hooked to the thrill of climbing. She met the Romanian-American mountaineer George Dijmarescu who encouraged her not to just be a porter, and join him in climbing Everest from the Tibet side.&nbsp; For the next several years the two became climbing partners, the ultimate power couple in Himalayan mountaineering. She emigrated to the United States and gave birth to daughters Sunny and Shiny. It was not long before Dijmarescu showed his true self, and Lahkpa was trapped in an abusive marriage in a foreign land. As a girl child in Nepal, she was never sent to school and had no other job except climbing. The fairytale had ended. She was featured in a <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2023/01/31/sports/lhakpa-sherpa-everest.html">New York Times</a> report, training for her 10th ascent of Mt Everest carrying boxes of vegetables and fruits at Whole Foods. In Mountain Queen, Walker directs a highly personalised profile of Nepal’s &nbsp;almost-forgotten mountaineering legend, digging up her troubles and triumphs with sensitivity and care. Walker does more than tell the story of perseverance and resilience that go hand-in-hand with climbing, she also tells the story of a matriarch who has to be strong for her family. &nbsp; Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/why-we-climb-mountains">Why we climb mountains</a>, Damien Francois After her 10th Everest ascent, sponsors line up to fund an expedition to even more challenging K2, which Lhakpa climbed last year. Pasang Lhamu’s soul burns brightly in Lhakpa Sherpa, and she sums up her own journey: “I’ll give my life to the mountains, keep climbing until the day I die.” Mountain Queen: Summits of Lhakpa Sherpa Directed by Lucy Walker Netflix, 2024 104 minutes&nbsp;

Pinki Sris Rana

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Daughter of Chomolungma

<figure><img width="1500" height="1125" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221110111156/636cd9159c7e80680e092e7cjpeg.jpg" alt=""/><figcaption>Kalpana Maharjan summits Mt Everest from the north.</figcaption></figure>In November of 2014, Kalpana Maharjan was trudging up to the base camp of Mera Peak at an altitude of 5,250m, when she started experiencing splitting headaches and dizziness. Days later, she woke up in a hospital in Kathmandu to realise she had been in the state of coma induced by <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/going-to-great-heights-to-prevent-altitude-illness/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">acute mountain sickness</a> for a week.Anyone else might have given up going up to the mountains after that, but not Maharjan. She did not just return, but became the only woman journalist to have made it to the top of Mt Everest from both the north and south sides.At age 33 she climbed Mt Everest with four other Nepali women journalists on 23 May 2018, and repeated the feat on the same day exactly a year later from the Chinese side.The mother of an 8-year-old says her success in going back on the mountains after the near-death experience was rooted in her belief that it is through challenges and tragedies that the human spirit learns to rise.“It is not necessary for every girl to climb Everest to prove herself,” Maharjan says, “I decided to climb Everest as the most challenging dream I could set for myself. This was the only way I could reclaim my voice.” <img width="200" height="191" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221110111156/636cd9189c7e80680e092e7djpeg.jpg" alt="">Not content with meeting the challenge of <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/nepali-mountaineer-breaking-barriers,2708" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">climbing the world’s highest mountain</a> once, the Newa woman from Lalitpur decided to do it again from a different route. She says she has also learnt her lesson about being realistic about one’s goals, and to be prepared for the hardships with training and fitness. “Determination is important, but you must also know your limits and the risks involved,” she cautions, “you need to know what to expect on the mountains and believe in teamwork. Just because you are with Sherpa guides who have summited Everest 10 times, it does not mean there will be no trouble on the mountains.” <figure><img width="1152" height="1297" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221110111156/636cd91a9c7e80680e092e7ejpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>She is now turning her own experience into training for other aspiring Nepali climbers, with do’s and don’ts while in the Himalaya. She shares her knowledge about the gear to carry, the types of diet, and the importance of acclimatisation. Maharjan has launched Experience Outdoors Nepal to visit schools and colleges, talking to young outdoor enthusiasts about hiking and mountaineering.She says it is not necessary to climb Mt Everest to be in the wilderness, the pleasures of hiking can also be experienced in simple <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/eastern-nepals-mundum-landscape/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">treks along Nepal’s forested mid-mountains</a>. For those in Kathmandu, she is promoting trekking trails in southern Lalitpur that are both accessible and adventurous.“There are many unexplored routes that have a lot of potential. You can see the panorama of the mountains as you walk through rhododendron forests and get a glimpse of the real Nepal,” she explains.These ‘Hike with Kalpana’ short treks are collaborations with rural municipalities that provide a glimpse of the cultural diversity of the Tamang-Newa villages of Lalitpur as well as the Himalayan panorama to the north. The hikes are popular among city dwellers who had been cooped up for long with the Covid-19 lockdowns.After climbing Annapurna I in 1950, the first ever ascent of a 8,000m peak, French mountaineer Maurice Herzog ends his book about the climb with the words: ‘There are other Annapurnas in the lives of men.’Kalpana Maharjan’s ‘next Annapurna’ is a campaign to end child marriage. Despite improvements, underage girls are still being marriage off by their parents in Nepal, and there has been an <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/nepal-child-marriages-spike-during-pandemic/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">increase after the pandemic</a>. She has been traveling the country, delivering lectures, using the celebrity status she has received through her climbs to put a spotlight on the issue.  <figure><img width="1024" height="1024" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221110111156/636cd91c9c7e80680e092e7fjpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>Maharjan believes that <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/child-marriage-in-nepal-eloped-at-13-mother-by-17/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">child marriage</a> should be tackled through education. She says: “I made up my mind on top of Mt Everest to start a campaign against young girls being forced to marry, and the best way to do this is to encourage female literacy and enrollment.”

Peak performance

One aspect of colonial cartography of South Asia leaps out in this must-see exhibition – while the coastline of India, Ceylon, Burma are extraordinarily accurate in maps made more than 200 years ago, the Himalayan hinterland is wholly approximate and inexact. The accuracy improves as modern survey techniques are introduced by atlas-makers, but even then formidable terrain and forbidden lands thwart precision. Map aficionados will be fascinated by the 40 antique maps from The Rajbhandari Collection on display at the exhibition ‘Imaging South Asia: Nepal in the Making at Kathmandu Art Gallery’ at Baber Mahal Revisited from 13 February - 17 March.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260211090252_0cbeb88674a97c6292e2b43b2135df219257ca641cbd4723e9aabf5541c2b258.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="20260211090252_0cbeb88674a97c6292e2b43b2135df219257ca641cbd4723e9aabf5541c2b258" data-rendition-name="original" width="4160" height="3485" loading="lazy" alt="Map Land NT"> </figure>  The first maps were made on clay tablets and cave paintings, but maps improved with Chinese maritime charts of Southeast Asia and beyond. Nautical maps created during the European Age of Exploration used geometry, latitude and longitude. Competition for colonial riches rested on the accuracy of these maps. The Portuguese had the lead in the 15th century, but were soon overtaken by the Spanish with Columbus voyaging to India but landing up in the Americas.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260211090252_1fb21d20cf29b408119f5279ce666e73dee089356e52277d753a27e3440364eb.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="20260211090252_1fb21d20cf29b408119f5279ce666e73dee089356e52277d753a27e3440364eb" data-rendition-name="original" width="4030" height="3407" loading="lazy" alt="Map Land NT"> </figure>  European mapping of the coastline of peninsular India &nbsp;began after Vasco de Gama sailed around the Horn of Africa to arrive at what is now Kerala in 1498. The British and French struggled for control of India, and the Carnatic Wars of the 19th century were extensions of their rivalry in Europe.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260211090252_0fb0969dc3e07c5a77123b4aa5eb0f11d2ffea73c108077f7e4d1892d6bd4bb6.jpg" data-media-id="editor_2" data-image-id="20260211090252_0fb0969dc3e07c5a77123b4aa5eb0f11d2ffea73c108077f7e4d1892d6bd4bb6" data-rendition-name="original" width="2842" height="4160" loading="lazy" alt="Map Land NT"> </figure>  While most of the maps at this exhibition were commissioned by the East India Company and the Survey of India, there are quite a few made by Parisian cartographers and feature Pondicherry and the Danish trading outpost at Tranquebar. Followed chronologically, the maps show improvements in cartographic techniques. The earliest French map L’Inde of J D Barbié du Bocage from 1760 is a copper engraving with hand painted colours demarcating boundaries. ‘Napaul’, ‘Gorka’ and ‘Catmando’ are depicted. The rivers of India are precisely drawn, as is the Brahmaputra (Yarou Tsanpou) even though locations across the rest of Tibet are rough estimates.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260211090252_486dc1b12f391550516be164f27170d4702a69b5125c1b8c4b10f76fdae4c0b1.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="20260211090252_486dc1b12f391550516be164f27170d4702a69b5125c1b8c4b10f76fdae4c0b1" data-rendition-name="original" width="1675" height="604" loading="lazy" alt="Map Land NT"> </figure>  The 1781 map Carte des Indes en deçà et au-delà du Gange of Rigobert Bonne has slightly more detail about Nepal with even ‘Pattan’ and ‘Bagmally’ river marked. William Darton’s 1802 map has ‘Nogarcot’ and ‘Mocaumpour’ wrongly placed to the east of the valley of ‘Napaul’. Samuel Arrowsmith’s 1828 map ‘India and the Birman Empire’ has Nepal’s rough boundaries demarcated for the first time within a hand-coloured green border, with the mountain ‘Dholagiri’ and ‘Dhunchi’ appearing for the first time. The 1835 map by Boston-based American cartographer Thomas Bradford has a more precise ‘Burrampooter’ river with ‘Sgigatoe’, ‘Lassa’ and ‘Bootan’ marked. In Nepal, ‘Batgan’, ‘Macwampour’ and ‘Lelit Pattan’ appear near ‘Catmandu’.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260211090252_5509c8e043a74b3e34e399c0684ca8eef7fc79953ee0dd18aedc738e8189d552.jpg" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="20260211090252_5509c8e043a74b3e34e399c0684ca8eef7fc79953ee0dd18aedc738e8189d552" data-rendition-name="original" width="4094" height="3646" loading="lazy" alt="Map Land NT"> </figure>  One striking landmark appears consistently through a century of map-making from 1760 onwards, and that is the sacred Yamdrok Tso near Lhasa. It is precisely located, although it is drawn as a circular lake called ‘Jamdro or Palto Lake’ till J Bartholomew’s lithographic map in 1893 Constable’s Hand Atlas of India. Bartholomew’s map is also where ‘Mt Everest’ appears for the first time with its altitude ’29,002ft’ after Peak XV was calculated to be the highest mountain in the world by the Survey of India. Meanwhile, ‘Kinchinjunga’ appears in some of the earlier maps from the mid-1800s, north of ‘Dorjeloo’. The maps did not only have locations of towns, rivers and mountains but also other interesting facts about places. History buffs will find much to pore over in these maps.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260211090252_8280c979b175946a2ac29e22b7a2b2427f7f36f22093c3456524f1f529311498.jpg" data-media-id="editor_5" data-image-id="20260211090252_8280c979b175946a2ac29e22b7a2b2427f7f36f22093c3456524f1f529311498" data-rendition-name="original" width="4160" height="2762" loading="lazy" alt="Map Land NT"> </figure>  Many have sites of major British battles while conquering India. The ‘British India’ map by J Rapkin has dates and times of the ‘Principle Massacres’ during the Indian Mutiny of 1857. The map also shows India’s growing railway network with completed lines and those ‘in progress’. Narrow gauge lines can be seen in successive maps snaking up to the Nepal border to haul sal logs for sleepers for India’s expanding railway network. Many maps were drawn by British military intelligence. One even has the Kuti route of the Nepal Army while invading Tibet in 1791, and the Chinese Army’s advance in hot pursuit through Kerung to Nuwakot.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260211090252_a41ff6a7453f95d1e83c12ed3f831911d65ebd4d2389e0e3b774252dfa037132.jpg" data-media-id="editor_6" data-image-id="20260211090252_a41ff6a7453f95d1e83c12ed3f831911d65ebd4d2389e0e3b774252dfa037132" data-rendition-name="original" width="1173" height="679" loading="lazy" alt="Map Land NT"> </figure>  Pre-1857 maps show the western Tarai as a part of British India, but in later ones the Naya Muluk districts of Banke, Bardia, Kailali and Kanchanpur have reverted back to Nepal. The maps clearly mark Nepal as an independent nation, and represent it differently from Indian princely states. The Atlas of India of 1846 shows the ‘Dominion of the King of Nepal’.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260211090252_52132146d9ee8b922560b98e90d866149715d7f53ced408b5f3af8f3b142a07b.jpg" data-media-id="editor_7" data-image-id="20260211090252_52132146d9ee8b922560b98e90d866149715d7f53ced408b5f3af8f3b142a07b" data-rendition-name="original" width="4149" height="3682" loading="lazy" alt="Map Land NT"> </figure>  Visitors will be curious about Nepal's claim to Limpiyadhura and Lipu Lek. A map by Mason &amp; Payne from 1846 clearly shows the ‘Kallee River’ as being the border between Nepal and British India, with Kalapni within Nepal. The Lipu Gad tributary (which India claims is the border) is not marked. Some other maps, however, seem to show the border not following the Kali river to Limpiyadhura but the tributary up to Lipu Lek.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2026021112024_9a1b6055a9fbecca7b64c3882c205efb336aac03e64ecf43a2044cb079cd699f.jpg" data-media-id="editor_8" data-image-id="2026021112024_9a1b6055a9fbecca7b64c3882c205efb336aac03e64ecf43a2044cb079cd699f" data-rendition-name="original" width="875" height="1215" loading="lazy" alt="Map Land NT"> </figure>  Imaging South Asia: Nepal in the Making&nbsp; Kathmandu Art Gallery, Baber Mahal Revisited&nbsp; 13 February – 17 March For guided walk-throughs and curatorial tours: +977 1-5318048 Panel discussions: -Cartographic Practices from the &nbsp;Gorkha Polity to the Present with Buddhi Narayan Shrestha and Kanak Mani Dixit&nbsp; Friday, 13 February, 4pm -Mapping Beyond Borders with Akhilesh Upadhyay and Amish Raj Mulmi Wednesday, 25 February, 4pm&nbsp;

Map land

The arrest on 25 January of six people on charges of insurance fraud has brought the scandal of fake helicopter rescue of trekkers in Nepal to the fore once more, denting the image of the tourism industry. Trekking companies, helicopter operators and hospitals were said to be in cahoots to carry out medical evacuations that were not necessary. In some cases, even the rescues were said to be fake with false names of ‘patients’ and their ailments. The six who were arrested were charged by the Central Bureau of Investigation (CIB) with <a href="https://asia.nikkei.com/business/travel-leisure/nepal-s-rescue-helicopter-scam-casts-doubt-on-tourism-credibility2" target="_blank">cheating insurance companies</a>of millions of dollars in the past four years with more than 300 <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/multimedia/heli-rescue-fraud-tarnishes-nepal-s-image" target="_blank">fake chopper medevacs</a> from the base of Himalayan peaks to hospitals in Kathmandu. Nepali personnel of three companies, Nepal Charter Service, Everest Experience and Mountain Rescue were accused of heavily overcharging &nbsp;for fraudulent rescues, faking or inflating medical bills, and claiming payment of over $18 million over the years, the CIB said.&nbsp; In some cases, trekkers themselves who do not want to walk back along the same trail to Everest Base Camp or other routes, and pretend to be sick, are also said to be involved in the scam. “Tourism will attract opportunists, that is true everywhere,” explains Raj Gyawali of <a href="https://socialtours.com/" target="_blank">socialtours</a> and a partner of <a href="https://ethicaltravelportal.com/" target="_blank">Ethical Travel Portal</a>. “Our responsibility as an industry is to weed them out, protect what matters, and keep tourism rooted in passion, integrity, and long-term value.” The scam got <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2026/02/03/world/asia/mount-everest-helicopter-insurance-fraud.html" target="_blank">wide international attention</a>, and tainted the reputation of Nepal’s mountain tourism sector that employs up to 1 million people. International media headlined allegations that trekker food was spiked to cause diarrhoea to force evacuations. Despite the bad publicity, tourism operators see a silver lining. It shows that Nepal is cleaning up its act and the system is working. Besides, the cheaters are in a minority in an industry that provides some of the best organised and most experienced mountain tourism service in the world.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260210040232_141217f8e5dc8a584642f7cb8d130de1a05cdcf149467334f9ab4e392f7d67aa.jpg" data-media-id="editor_5" data-image-id="20260210040232_141217f8e5dc8a584642f7cb8d130de1a05cdcf149467334f9ab4e392f7d67aa" data-rendition-name="original" width="1584" height="1500" loading="lazy" alt="Helicopter medevac scam NT"> </figure>  “After years of talk and investigation, we are now seeing arrests and it’s encouraging to finally see action. This didn’t happen overnight,” Gyawali says. “The post GenZ interim government works with much less politics, we are seeing a functional system for the first time in decades in Nepal.”&nbsp; This is not a new story. <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/nation/Insurance,361" target="_blank">Nepali Times first covered </a>trekking insurance scams in 2013, following up on an investigation by the British Mountaineering Council in <a href="https://www.thebmc.co.uk/" target="_blank">Summit magazine</a> about insurance fraud involving fake helicopter rescues. In <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/multimedia/heli-rescue-fraud-tarnishes-nepal-s-image" target="_blank">another news item</a> published in this paper in 2018 cited an investigation by insurance watchdog <a href="https://www.travellerassist.co/" target="_blank">Traveller Assist</a> which showed that a third of the 1,600 helicopter rescues in Nepal that year were fraudulent, costing up to $4 million. Insurance companies gave the Nepal government <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/nepal-trekking-industry-in-damage-control-mode" target="_blank">an ultimatum</a> to clean up its act, and an investigation committee was formed and 13 companies said to be involved were named. It now looks like although insurance fraud declined, it was still continuing to some extent till 2025. In the cut-throat competition in Nepal’s mountain tourism industry, companies undercut each other, and there are some trying to make a quick buck. These rotten apples spoil the whole barrel. Given Nepal’s remote terrain and extreme weather along Himalayan trekking routes, helicopter rescues are vital in saving hundreds of lives every year, rescuing trekkers and mountaineers suffering from acute mountain sickness, stomach or lung infections. “Nepal has a unique advantage over other Himalayan countries like India, Pakistan, or China because it allows private helicopter companies to conduct rescues,” Gyawali says. “This makes rescues faster and more accessible, often life-saving.” The real problem is that sometimes rescues take too long because of &nbsp;permission needed from multiple government agencies to conduct rescues near the Chinese border, which is considered sensitive. Last year, a mountaineer died on Himlung Himal because a helicopter company could not get clearance in time for a rescue.

Fake rescues hurt Himalayan tourism

This is the 83rd episode of Diaspora Diaries, a Nepali Times series in collaboration with Migration Lab providing a platform to share experiences of living, working and studying abroad. Spain is regularising over 500,000 undocumented workers, and Nepalis come to me inquiring about the program. Those who benefit from it will be very lucky, as it is a life-changing opportunity. I know because I too benefited from the last large scaled regularisation program back in 2005. I left Nepal in 2000 and went to Germany, Belgium, France before landing in Spain. Things were pretty bad in Nepal back then with the Maoist conflict and strikes.&nbsp; Our business was impacted. There was not much hope. When you leave Nepal, you want to make something of yourself and support your family back home. But you have to dream in phases.&nbsp; The first dream is to get ‘kagaj’ or a temporary residence card (TRC). Only then can you focus on your actual dreams. Whether it was because the countries I traveled were not a good fit or because the chances of getting the document was low, I kept country hopping until I reached Spain in 2004. I have not left since.&nbsp; In Spain, I felt at home. The European dream had brought me here, salaries were higher than Gulf which I thought was too strict. Then there was the possibility of traveling to seven European countries back then with the Schengen visa.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260210150228_b57c873801361755cf25048f294b2d1d0574796ef70a0e270531ced2508f64ed.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="20260210150228_b57c873801361755cf25048f294b2d1d0574796ef70a0e270531ced2508f64ed" data-rendition-name="original" width="2048" height="1536" loading="lazy" alt="Nepalis in Spain"> </figure>  But mostly, I just wanted a secure life for me and my family. What I valued the most about Europe was free healthcare and education. This is very important because in other parts of the world including Nepal, people from our background are just one small disease away from losing half our capital and we spend a significant amount of money on educational expenses. Nepali dais back then told me it would be best to go to either Italy, Spain or Portugal if we wanted to establish ourselves as paper work was relatively easier there than in other European countries. My initial days in Spain without the paper work were difficult. Not concerns about being raided or deported because if we had our apartment, even police let us be.&nbsp; But it was because of unfair pay. You could not go home. It made you tense and irritable. It affects your mental well-being. Some are smart enough to invest time in skills as they wait that will prove useful. Others get depressed. The main reason we migrate is to support our family and when you cannot do it properly and are uncertain about when things will get better, it bothers you. This happened to me too, sometimes I would be staring at the TV and would flinch when other Nepalis asked me what is wrong, and why I look so lost.&nbsp; The newspaper Canarias also interviewed us about our conditions (pictured). I had not gone home since five years, and there was no way to. There was no social media like now to talk to family. Calling home from booths was expensive, just once every three weeks. You did not talk. It was just to hear voices, pass the phone around to say a quick hello.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260210150232_8af8b6f6acb1252e0d67a43556e21ff8074543acfcc318c985816479c6146fd9.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="20260210150232_8af8b6f6acb1252e0d67a43556e21ff8074543acfcc318c985816479c6146fd9" data-rendition-name="original" width="2048" height="1536" loading="lazy" alt="Nepalis in Spain"> </figure>  When you are undocumented, you don’t get fair wages. But you make that sacrifice because my bigger goal was to establish myself and in the meantime, to support family with whatever I could earn with my wages. All we could do was wait for a regularisation program to open. When Spain initiated such a program in 2005, we were so relieved. We were relatively new so did not understand the language. Other Nepalis guided us and were well-versed in the latest updates via news and consultation with immigration lawyers which they would pass on to us. This time, the regularisation program will come through within 30 days, but back then it took time. I had to wait for nine months. Those nine months felt like nine years. I would keep visiting the cyber café to check my online status. When friends got their notification, I would get even more anxious and wonder if I would get rejected. Maybe today? Maybe tomorrow? It was a long wait. I wanted to know what it felt like to hold the card in my hand. Then I could hold my five-year-old baby back in Nepal in my hand. She was born after I left for Europe. When I finally got it after nine months, I could not be happier. I informed my family. I thanked God. Even when I was having food, I would put the card right in front of me on my table. Food never tasted better, I would eat twice the amount with happiness. It was a different kind of elation — it opened the doors for me to think about my dreams, my targets and how to realise them.&nbsp; There was no stopping me now, I was going to go far. But mostly, I could go home. In that flight back to Nepal after six years my heart swelled and I knelt on the tarmac to pay respect to my motherland. The minute I saw my parents, I touched their feet for blessings. My wife and I cried. My daughter was scared of me and would run away - it took some time for her to get comfortable with my presence. I still break down when I think about it.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260210150232_beba1745d845e219eaeaaf1bc33e0a02c07748ebd80bcc74a467c933cc5602e3.jpg" data-media-id="editor_2" data-image-id="20260210150232_beba1745d845e219eaeaaf1bc33e0a02c07748ebd80bcc74a467c933cc5602e3" data-rendition-name="original" width="2048" height="1536" loading="lazy" alt="Nepalis in Spain"> </figure>  A few trips to Nepal later, I brought my family to Spain after I had fulfilled various rules for family migration. As expenses rise for a migrant, the choice is to either work extra hours or start your own business. Since I got the TRC, I have done it all: various jobs, businesses from selling handicraft from India to a cyber cafe, and the restaurant business.&nbsp; As an entrepreneur, I have seen highs when I could open a second restaurant branch or earn enough to buy an apartment. I have seen lows where I closed down businesses and sold apartment. I have gone from an entrepreneur to a wage job to recoup the losses I made by working extra hours. When I felt comfortable enough, I have gone back to starting a new business.&nbsp; I have met wonderful people who have supported me when I started my business either by providing me financial help or as business partners. I have been duped by my own business partner or worked with colleagues who did not want me to prosper. I now run a handicraft shop, an Indian restaurant and a café. The struggle never ends. There are many Nepalis like me who are running businesses here and have bought property. Back in 2004, Nepalis were mostly working in jobs and for a slight salary bump, we would keep switching jobs. Now, they run their own businesses and have bought property. The power of honesty and hard work that Nepalis are known for helps in businesses. Malaga is incredibly beautiful and reminds me of Thamel. The brilliant weather and beautiful beaches attracts tourists. The houses are kept small to preserve the culture and civilisation.&nbsp; I miss Nepal. I especially miss my father who passed in 2020. He was my biggest cheerleader as I struggled thousands of miles away, and always reminded me that he was here for back support. My mother reminds me to keep at it without worrying.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260210150232_2cea4b66ad47c15859980c696446362603b10981a1b471ab5e076a22a58727b1.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="20260210150232_2cea4b66ad47c15859980c696446362603b10981a1b471ab5e076a22a58727b1" data-rendition-name="original" width="2077" height="1433" loading="lazy" alt="Nepalis in Spain"> </figure>  Sometimes I ask myself, what did I leave behind to earn money and provide a good life to my family? I regret not getting to spend more time with my father before he died. I am not sure what would have happened if I had not left Nepal, but I would have figured something out. Whatever determination I have shown in Spain to navigate my life here, I would have used it back home, too.&nbsp; I have missed important milestones like weddings, births, deaths and festivals. I have missed it all. Of my three daughters I missed the births of the first two in Nepal. I was only there for my youngest’s birth, in Spain.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260210150232_a6295e4f58d73e5b340235caf916b98eba785e3559341ea4622629c262e7b1a4.jpg" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="20260210150232_a6295e4f58d73e5b340235caf916b98eba785e3559341ea4622629c262e7b1a4" data-rendition-name="original" width="1630" height="1125" loading="lazy" alt="Nepalis in Spain"> </figure>  The regularisation program from 2005 that allowed me to raise the living standards of a number of living around me and reunite with my family. This platform was life changing for me, and my loved ones. There are many Nepalis who will be applying for the 2026 regularisation program if they meet the criteria like presence in the country for at least five months before December 31, 2025. Other European countries have tightened their policies so many Nepalis are in Spain. This is a great opportunity for Nepalis. There are many more undocumented workers than the available quota, a majority from Latin America in Spain who want to benefit. The Nepali diaspora is helping raise awareness and provide accurate information about the processes so they can benefit and no one is left out. I do whatever I can to support young Nepalis because I was in the same position 20 years ago.

Dreaming in phases

If nature is left entirely unmanaged, ecological succession will proceed in ways that may undermine conservation objectives. For example, grasslands and wetlands in the lowland protected areas of Nepal have increasingly been overtaken by excessive vegetation growth.&nbsp; Without intervention, grasslands become taller, denser, and coarser, eventually becoming unpalatable to herbivores. Over time, such areas provide shelter and cover but are gradually succeeded by forest. Similarly, wetlands become silted, and open water surfaces are covered by native and invasive plant species.&nbsp; While this may provide cover, it reduces accessibility for several species to graze or browse and limits hunting opportunities for predators. These habitats effectively become ecological ‘blankets’, unfavorable to both prey and predators. Therefore, large herbivores in protected areas are forced to move beyond protected areas in search of succulent forage during lean seasons.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260211030216_1124883bcd91793f7c916893b80cb0c06ed5012e10e77f2d54f7ef37f110db12.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="20260211030216_1124883bcd91793f7c916893b80cb0c06ed5012e10e77f2d54f7ef37f110db12" data-rendition-name="original" width="1434" height="806" loading="lazy" alt="grassland and drying pond"> <figcaption>A grassland and a drying pond.</figcaption> </figure>  Stalking the prey, predators come closer to human settlement. Farmers in Nepal’s mountains are leaving agriculture due to crop depredation by monkeys, porcupine and wild boars. Trees are taking over the terraces providing habitat for wildlife. Restriction and absence of youth in villages for fuelwood collection, fodder harvesting, grazing, and timber extraction in forests have contributed to accumulation of combustible forest litter. Higher up, the absence of grazers leads to the disappearance of forb, dominance of grasses, leading to wildfires.&nbsp; Nepal has over 300 days of sunshine, and this dries our vegetation faster. Combined with global warming and strong wind in spring, this has sparked widespread and uncontrolled forest fires in recent decades, destroying biodiversity.&nbsp; Low-intensity surface fires in late winter can control invasive species and stimulating new plant growth, providing forage for herbivores during lean periods. In contrast, crown fires occurring from March onwards when temperature and wind speed are higher, cause severe damage to wildlife, decimating nesting birds, insects, reptiles, mammals, as well as human life and property.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260211030216_fcd82aa3b2f77fbf271c5b6f8e3145bb4ca3cf1294190d526b3848b5f1bfc420.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="20260211030216_fcd82aa3b2f77fbf271c5b6f8e3145bb4ca3cf1294190d526b3848b5f1bfc420" data-rendition-name="original" width="4032" height="1816" loading="lazy" alt="A wetland in Chitwan"> <figcaption>A wetland in Chitwan.</figcaption> </figure>  Successful conservation therefore requires strategies to accommodate increasing wildlife populations by ensuring adequate food, water, and shelter within the protected areas and buffer zones. Without such measures, the increased populations spillover into surrounding habitats, corridors, and farmlands and inevitably damage standing crops, human injury or death, and may result retaliatory killings.&nbsp; Efforts are under way for optimising grassland and wetlands. However, more need to be done to upscale harvest to rain water for food security, biodiversity conservation, to fight climate change and to recharge ground water. Retaliatory poisoning or electrocution become more frequently reported. Tiger, leopard and wild elephants are primary cause of human fatalities in buffer zones. Recently Himalayan black bears destroyed standing crops and attacked people. Growing tiger population tends to disperse and establish new territories beyond their natal area, bringing them closer to human activity or vice versa.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260211030232_c8435e196c512835fdc6a23a30545e75a50608574b3cfaad49a3c553fce90320.jpg" data-media-id="editor_2" data-image-id="20260211030232_c8435e196c512835fdc6a23a30545e75a50608574b3cfaad49a3c553fce90320" data-rendition-name="original" width="1500" height="844" loading="lazy" alt="Leopard"> <figcaption>Leopard.</figcaption> </figure>  Human life must remain paramount in conservation, and addressing human concerns is essential for sustainable and long-term conservation outcomes. Limited areas could support only certain number animals of certain megafauna, one must determine the numeric as an indicator for management, minimum viable population, and the limit of carrying capacity.&nbsp; It is hard to revive an endangered population, but what goes up must come down, and in the meantime, there should be a strategy to retain, relocate, deter, contain, or control the population, to safeguard human and crops for food security. Despite Nepal’s rich biodiversity and ecosystem services, the country generates limited revenue from biodiversity conservation. Although forest cover exceeds 45%, timber imports remain high, reflecting a negative economic growth. If mature timber is not harvested it become susceptible to fire hazard, emitting carbon.&nbsp; More than 23% of Nepal’s land area lies within protected areas, yet only a few derive enough ecotourism revenue. Other protected areas receive very few visitors. Limited entrance access to the protected areas also deprives many outlying communities of tourism economy. It is limiting benefits to local communities despite provisions allowing up to 50% of revenue to be allocated to buffer zone communities.&nbsp; Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve stands out as a successful revenue model, generating high income from low number of visitors through high-value hunting tourism. Hunting permits are auctioned annually, with fees of approximately $6,000 for Himalayan tahr and $5,000 for blue sheep.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260211030240_1787054e26325b29c18fc62e3062473b2d05f97e781f594911b606a0710da5ad.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="20260211030240_1787054e26325b29c18fc62e3062473b2d05f97e781f594911b606a0710da5ad" data-rendition-name="original" width="1500" height="958" loading="lazy" alt="Himalayan Tahr"> <figcaption>Himalayan Tahr</figcaption> </figure>  There are no plans to establish new hunting reserves like Dhorpatan despite the growing demand for high-value tourism products. International examples, such as Pakistan’s Astore Markhor, which has fetched bids exceeding $370,000, per animal demonstrates the economic potential of regulated trophy hunting. In Africa, surplus megafauna is hunted to control the population, thereby contributing to national economy and safeguarding ecology, and reducing human wildlife conflict. While US is heavily reliable in hunting, fishing and outdoor activities. They determine annual quota for various wildlife and birds.&nbsp; Conservation priorities should emphasise safeguarding ecologically important species, including predators, scavengers, rodent controllers, insectivores, pollinators, seed dispersers, and aerial feeders that regulate growing populations. Economically important wild fish, reptiles, game birds, game mammals, and edible mollusks should be studied for science-based, seasonal, and quota-regulated harvesting from designated areas. High-value species should be identified, protected, and sustainably harvested to generate revenue through premium tourism. The introduction of Russian wild boar in 1976 in Nagarjun and Shivpuri has led to range expansion and significant crop damage has been reported across the central Mahabharat region. Similarly, rhesus monkey populations cause substantial agricultural losses in many hill villages.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260211030236_e508aad200a31d7225c4b26052ff63e60806a29c3fcea7c89a82a82f89263345.jpg" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="20260211030236_e508aad200a31d7225c4b26052ff63e60806a29c3fcea7c89a82a82f89263345" data-rendition-name="original" width="1500" height="844" loading="lazy" alt="monkey paddy field menace meghauli"> <figcaption>Monkeys raiding paddy field in Meghauli, Chitwan.</figcaption> </figure>  Although the government has declared both as pest species, ambiguous regulations have hindered effective population control. Allowing licensed harvesting of invasive Russian wild boar, for example, could create opportunities for farm-based tourism, enhance food security, and generate revenue and reverse the migration of people to rural areas. The sarus crane is an aesthetically iconic species, with lifelong pair bonding, and cultural significance. In many agricultural landscapes, particularly in South Asia, the sarus crane is informally protected by farmers who recognise its ecological and cultural value. Farmers often tolerate crop damage, and refrain from harming nesting pairs, and in some cases actively safeguard nests and chicks. Such community-led stewardship reflects a harmonious coexistence between agriculture and biodiversity conservation. This may not be a case for other species. Science-based research is urgently needed to assess the impacts of pest species on agriculture, apiculture, fisheries, poultry, and livestock, and to develop effective control strategies that also support income generation. Even charismatic and iconic species may require management interventions once populations exceed ecological or social thresholds and begin causing human losses.&nbsp; Various stringent regulations are in place for culprits, however, there should be legal provision for economic incentive to support livelihood from the common, or pest species for the indigenous and people living in remote areas.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260211030236_22d968ec614761d9684cf4d098db69da0ae591610ceac980dc77cf796507464b.jpg" data-media-id="editor_5" data-image-id="20260211030236_22d968ec614761d9684cf4d098db69da0ae591610ceac980dc77cf796507464b" data-rendition-name="original" width="1500" height="994" loading="lazy" alt="wildife conservation"> </figure>  Lessons from African models, where problem animals are auctioned and their revenues support conservation and community compensation, could offer viable solutions. The National Parks and Wildlife Conservation Act of 1973 provide legal provisions for hunting game mammals, game birds, pest species, and problem animals. And for wildlife farming, but it must be complimented by qualified Zoologists. Problem species are defined as individual or a population of animals posing direct threats to human life and food security within specific areas.&nbsp; Nepal could categorise wild animals for management and conservation and regulations. For instance, IUCN and globally and NPWC Act protected species, nationally endangered and ecologically important animals and trophy hunting species could be regulated under DNPWC and federal government.&nbsp; Provincial governments could take the responsibility of conservation, do inventory and monitor and regulate the harvest of peripheral game species, pest/vermin species and control of problems and harmful to human and crops and health related species. Small predators such as marten, civets, jungle cats and jackals are a nuisance to poultry farmers and goat farmers.&nbsp; A nationwide zoological survey could classify species based on abundance, rarity, economic value, pest status, and conservation priority. There should be an opportunity to include hybridisation with wild stocks to improve domestic breeds, such as wild arna with domestic water buffalo, bison with cattle, and red jungle fowl with domestic chickens.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260211030236_5a6c3b9da5d94979e6189ed0ba8144caa8a08d15dcc5e95b4bc18b7c6d704936.jpg" data-media-id="editor_6" data-image-id="20260211030236_5a6c3b9da5d94979e6189ed0ba8144caa8a08d15dcc5e95b4bc18b7c6d704936" data-rendition-name="original" width="1500" height="844" loading="lazy" alt="Red Jungle Fowl"> <figcaption>Read jungle fowl.</figcaption> </figure>  Monitoring the zoonotic diseases is another field of importance, including Covid-19, Nipah virus, avian influenza, avian cholera, foot-and-mouth disease, swine fever, parvovirus, canine distemper and rabies—to reduce risks to public health and protect the national economy. Producing forensic Zoologists is increasingly important for identifying illegally traded species to determine the species and produce evidence to sentence the culprits.&nbsp; Monitoring bird diversity and fauna in airports is an important task for zoologists to reduce, deter or prevent birds and wildlife hazards in the airport, aircraft and passengers’ safety. International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) provides guidelines to induct ornithologists to keep the records to bird strike in the planes and deter birds and wildlife in the airports. If Nepal effectively utilises the expertise of zoologists in all tiers of government in species research, population dynamics, and ecotourism planning, it could strengthen biodiversity conservation while generating revenue and supporting economic development.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260211030240_c7926dad8b93a8aad05fac2e4ec613c0ec450fd4b876821f3216c904c0771fdf.jpg" data-media-id="editor_7" data-image-id="20260211030240_c7926dad8b93a8aad05fac2e4ec613c0ec450fd4b876821f3216c904c0771fdf" data-rendition-name="original" width="1500" height="844" loading="lazy" alt="Jackle"> <figcaption>A jackal in Mustang.</figcaption> </figure>  Over the past five decades, the Central Department of Zoology at Tribhuvan University has produced more than 2,000 MSc graduates. However, very few have been absorbed into government, with most employed in education, pursuing alternative careers, or emigrating.&nbsp; In contrast, graduates in forestry, botany, microbiology, and environmental sciences have secured greater representation in government roles. The Department of Zoology must evolve to meet modern demands with applied research, wildlife management, and revenue-oriented conservation strategies aligned with the regenerative nature of fauna. Rajendra N. Suwal is Vice President of Nepal Zoological Society in Kathmandu.

female-mountaineer

Daughter of Chomolungma

Peak performance

Map land

Fake rescues hurt Himalayan tourism

Dreaming in phases

Regenerative conservation from zoologists in Nepal