<figure><img width="1000" height="667" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109101132/636b73ac9c7e80680e062351jpeg.jpg" alt=""/><figcaption>All Photos: MONIKA DEUPALA</figcaption></figure>Kathmandu does not lack good Indian restaurants, but latest addition at Hotel Yak &amp; Yeti’s Spice Room presents what we have been missing: carefully curated multicourse meals that take you on a delicious culinary adventure, one that commands your attention.The newly opened eatery is a successor to the hotel’s 42-year-old Sunrise Restaurant, but unlike its predecessor’s Indian buffet-style meals, Spice Room is a proud fine-dining restaurant that takes the à la carte route. <img width="1500" height="1000" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109101132/636b73af9c7e80680e062352jpeg.jpg" alt="">With table settings that change according to meal times, copper pots lined on shelves as decoration, a reddish-orange gradient cloth wall and large windows that give diners a view of green lawns and the Lal Darbar, Spice Room is unapologetically upscale.The Murgh Kali Mirch Ka Shorba, a thin soup with a strong chickeny flavour and spiced with tellicherry peppercorns, is a fantastic start to the meal. Servers carefully pour the soup with a stainless steel teapot on the shallow clay bowl peppered with slices of fried and aromatic garlic garnishes -- adding a performance aspect to the generally simple dish. <figure><img width="1500" height="1000" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109101132/636b73b39c7e80680e062353jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>Although an Indian restaurant, the menu heavily favours northern flavours which peek through the extensive list of tandoori dishes, nan, roti and chapati.The chef recommended Masala Ojhari, a Punjabi spiced pork belly served on a roti. The rich dish can be overwhelming on its own, but with a good squeeze of lemon, the acid cuts through the fat and brings out the sweetness of the tomato masala. But while the meat is soft and tender, a crunchy element is missing, an aspect that Chef Arindam Bahel is trying to bring to the dish in the future. <figure><img width="867" height="1300" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109101132/636b73b69c7e80680e062354jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption> </figcaption></figure><figure><img width="1242" height="2072" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109101132/636b73b99c7e80680e062355jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>And no visit to an Indian restaurant is complete without biryani and the Pardanashi Murgh Biryani, cooked dum-style, stays true to its traditional form. Alternate between bites of the mildly spiced Murgh Peshawari Lababdar, a chicken dish stuffed with minced chicken and covered in a house blend spiced sauce, and the classic no nonsense creamy Butter Chicken as you go through the earthen clay pot of the biryani.South Indian flavours too, make an appearance on the menu through the seafood dishes like the Shrimp Moilee and Crab Chatpata. In the Karavali Shrimp, the heat of peppercorns and spices pair well with the coconut cream and tangy turmeric sauce and crunchy salad.Read Also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/review/spicy-foods-from-the-coast/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Spicy foods from the coast</a>, Sikuma Rai <figure><img width="1500" height="1000" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109101132/636b73bd9c7e80680e062356jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>The fine dining adventure continues with an exciting assortment of Indian influenced dessert. The Trio of Kulfi, which the chef advises strongly to eat in the order of chilli and black salt infused Guava, lychee and pistachio Khuwa Barfi, is a refined version of childhood on a plate. <figure><img width="1500" height="1000" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109101132/636b73c09c7e80680e062357jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>For those that love desserts but despise sweets, the Lychee Chilli Mousse is perfect. The lychee mousse, suffused with spices like cinnamon has a mild heat that appears after a couple bites.The Mishti Doi, a baked yogurt topped with a tangy berry compote, is a creamy dessert that rivals even the beloved Bhaktapur juju dhau.The official inauguration of Spice Room is on 4 February, marking the end of their collaboration with Cancer Care Nepal. Spice Room is donating Rs200 per bill from 30 January-4 February to the organisation. <img width="640" height="427" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109101132/636b73c49c7e80680e062358jpeg.jpg" alt="">Read Also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/business/indian-fine-dining/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Indian Fine Dining</a>, Sikuma Rai<a style="background-color: #ffffff; font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 0.01em;" href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/review/indo-chinese-food-fest/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Indo-Chinese Food Fest</a>, Prakriti Kandel

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A taste of India at the Spice Room

<figure><img width="640" height="960" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108101144/636a25a29c7e80680e0439d2jpeg.jpg" alt=""/><figcaption>All photos: SIKUMA RAI</figcaption></figure>Originally from India, crafted with a French twist, made in the US, and served in Nepal. It is the award winning franchise restaurant <a href="https://www.facebook.com/LeMirchKathmandu/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Le Mirch</a>, continuing to do what it does best here in Kathmandu.This February, the fusion restaurant completes its second year in Nepal, and with it brings along more new dishes full of subtleties and surprises. <figure><img width="640" height="427" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108101144/636a25a49c7e80680e0439d3jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>If you had never thought of eating chicken or paneer tikka for salad then let’s start the journey from here. The strong flavour of a tikka is accompanied by creamy avocados, green leaves and a touch of olive to make a healthy bite. Nothing here is too much or too little, not even the pieces of chicken or paneer. But if you still want Les Epinards, the classic salad of crunchy fried baby spinach, dates, almonds, yogurt, chili and cilantro, it is yours too.Next is the staple Nepali dish, the momo. Here, Le Mirch has decided to have fun with the dumplings by putting it inside the tandoor and coating it with bold malai or tikka spices. By the look of it, six pieces might seem more than enough, but they leave your taste buds craving for more. <figure><img width="640" height="427" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108101144/636a25a79c7e80680e0439d4jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>Another local food that has made its way to this sophisticated menu is the Newa item chicken chhoila with beaten rice. You might think they have twisted this one too, but no, it has the exact flavour of the cuisine, including that of the fresh mustard oil. Lunch set at Le Mirch starts at Rs375, including all taxes and a bottle of Coke.Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/could-nepali-cuisine-go-global/">Could Nepali cuisine go global?</a>, Thomas Heaton<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/nepalis-binge-on-junk-foods-the-west-rejected/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Nepalis binge on junk foods the West rejected</a>, Duksangh SherpaIf you are here for dinner, make space for the main course, of course. Pecan Crust Salmon, Rack O’lamb and Mirch Shank are the signature dishes, which have come all the way from the <a href="https://lemirch.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">main restaurant in DC</a>. The kitchen uses all Halal meat to not leave any guests disappointed. Also try Shrimp Mad-Rush, as Chef Ajay Pudasaini knows what he is doing to his seafood very well.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108101144/636a25aa9c7e80680e0439d5jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="667">                     Shrimp Mad-Rush with naan<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108101144/636a25ac9c7e80680e0439d6jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="667">                   Mushroom chiliFor all vegetarians out there, the extensive à la carte menu at Le Mirch also incorporates a whole page dedicated to dishes of chickpeas, okra,cauliflower, tofu, paneer, peas, greens, potatoes and many more to go with basmati rice, biryani, roti or naan. Here you will find most of the dishes integrated with fresh ingredients and herbs, especially curry leaves.At Le Mirch, Chef Pudasaini combines the bold and exciting flavors of India, which he learnt during his time in Bombay, with the sophistication and elegant presentation that he perfected by learning from Michelin Star Chefs. The experience is accompanied by a collection of contemporary art and creative interior design of the restaurant to give guests a one-of-a-kind and wholesome experience.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108101144/636a25b09c7e80680e0439d7jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="667"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108101144/636a25b39c7e80680e0439d8jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="667">Le Mirch 11am-10pm, Labim Mall, Patan, (01) 5527437Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/review/diverse-and-delightful-feast/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">A diverse and delightful feast</a>, Sikuma Rai <a style="background-color: #ffffff; font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 0.01em;" href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/review/a-new-chimney/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">A new Chimney</a>, Sikuma Rai

Indo-French-American with Nepali twist

<figure><img width="1000" height="667" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110714114/636902ef9c7e80680e037c92jpeg.jpg" alt=""/><figcaption>Masala Chai granite</figcaption></figure>When we think of Indian cuisine, we think of spicy and greasy curries, the taste is so rich that it leaves us wanting more. But we dare not indulge too much lest we upset our full stomach!If you are the kind of person who avoids Indian food for these reasons, then <a href="https://www.yakandyeti.com/">Hotel Yak &amp; Yeti</a> has a perfect alternative for you. It is not Chinese, Sri Lankan, or Afghan cuisine. It is Indian, but with a surprising twist.Sunrise Restaurant at the Yak and Yeti is hosting ‘Epicurean Extravaganza – The Taste of India’, where Executive Chef Sagar Singh Rawat and his team prepare a special nine-course Indian dinner. And the menu is not your regular chicken tandoori, butter chicken, and paneer masala.“We wanted to give our customers the taste from different parts of India, from Peshawar to Panjab, Awadh to Hyderabad. But we also wanted to make it modern”, explains chef Rawat. “So we have given a twist to traditional dishes by playing with forms, textures, presentation and technique, while staying true to the taste element. So, what you normally have as a curry is not necessarily presented as curry!” <figure><img width="1000" height="667" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110714114/636902f29c7e80680e037c93jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption>Achari papad paneer</figcaption></figure><figure><img width="640" height="427" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110714114/636902f59c7e80680e037c94jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption>Bhatti ka murg and Nimodi fish tikka</figcaption></figure>True to their words, the chef and his team have turned every heavy dish into a delicate, mild and elegant one without spoiling its essence!The dinner menu has two options, vegetarian and non-vegetarian, each with nine courses. Now, do not get overwhelmed by the number of courses—the portion of each dish is bite sized. However, after the ninth dish, which is a dessert, you feel neither hungry nor too stuffed. With 10 years of experience in 35 countries around the world, the chef knows exactly what he is serving and to whom.“Over nine courses we want to offer an experience of the finest dishes from Indian cuisine, presented with a twist. I think it is better experienced than described in words”, says the Chef.Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/business/dus-din-dilli-ke/">Dus Din Dilli Ke</a>, Sikuma Rai<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/business/arniko-lunch-for-executives/">Arniko lunch for executives</a>, Sikuma Rai <figure><img width="1000" height="667" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110714114/636902f79c7e80680e037c95jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption>Kesari murg basam ka shorba</figcaption></figure><figure><img width="1000" height="667" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110714114/636902fa9c7e80680e037c96jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption>Dahi hara salad</figcaption></figure>The team of chefs at Sunrise Restaurant believes in promoting the art and importance of global gastronomy. In the past years, the hotel had carried out similar food campaigns during Nepali New Year 2075, Chinese New Year 2018, Gout de France, Sri Lankan Food Festival, and Mango Mania.With the renovation of the hotel's Chimney Restaurant, and a fresh and creative approach, Chef Rawat plans to create more buzz, especially among young Nepalis, throughout his time in the city.Epicurean Extravaganza - The Taste of India3-4 August, 6:30-10:30pm, Sunrise Restaurant, Hotel Yak &amp; Yeti, Darbar Marg, Rs2,250 <figure><img width="640" height="427" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110714114/636902fd9c7e80680e037c97jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption>Nali nihari with Dal makhni and Butter naan</figcaption></figure><figure><img width="640" height="427" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110714114/636902ff9c7e80680e037c98jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption>Nimbu gosht dum biryani</figcaption></figure><figure><img width="1000" height="667" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110714114/636903029c7e80680e037c99jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption>Shahi tukda. All photos: SIKUMA RAI</figcaption></figure>

Indian fine dining

<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110711110/6368d74e9c7e80680e0314d5jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2048" height="1367"/><a href="https://www.qatarairways.com/en-qa/homepage.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwur7YBRA_EiwASXqIHFUyIPVW6DwNxEYvVpWBQiMxl7KjPQJ3wH5MGt1-MFPH3NXCxQ6phBoCbLAQAvD_BwE&amp;CID=SXQA06644003730065004040000&amp;s_kwcid=AL!3739!3!166924289974!e!!g!!qatar%20airwar&amp;ef_id=WsBryAAABZFueGUg:20180531110236:s">Qatar Airways</a> launched a new on-board dining experience for its Premium customers travelling to Europe. The new concepts include newly-designed tableware, specially crafted cutlery and chinaware, as well as new signature dishes, desserts and afternoon tea to the in-flight menu, such as porcini and truffle risotto, kabsa, biryani and flame-grilled meats, based on route destinations.Qatar Airways Group Chief Executive Akbar Al Baker said, “Qatar Airways is collaborating closely with local farms and suppliers to produce products for our specific needs, promoting a farm-to-table approach. Our in-flight dining menus are designed to align with the four seasons.”The national carrier of the State of Qatar has recognised the emerging trend of its travellers being more aware of their dietary needs and expressing interests in healthier food options. Now featuring lighter options, such as fresh crisp salads, woodland berries, warm breakfast oatmeal and healthier drink options such as cold pressed juice Qatar Airways hopes to revitalise passengers during a long flight.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110711110/6368d7519c7e80680e0314d6jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="959">Qatar Airways launched a highly-successful pre-select dining option last year, whereby passengers travelling in First and Business Class are able to pre-select one main course from the à la carte on-board menu as far as 14 days in advance and up to 24 hours before take-off. This is in addition to the existing Dine-on-Demand service already available for valued First and Business Class passengers.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110711110/6368d7549c7e80680e0314d7jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="959"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110711110/6368d7579c7e80680e0314d8jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="959">To pre-select a meal, passengers simply need to log into ‘My Trips’ on the Qatar Airways website and choose from the seasonal menu available on their flight. Meals can also be ordered through the Qatar Airways mobile app.The Pre-Select dining option complements the airline’s award-winning <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/business/luxurious-flights/">Business Class experience, Qsuite,</a> which offers an unparalleled level of luxury and privacy on board a Business Class cabin.Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/business/break-the-fast-with-qatar-airways-iftar-meal/">Break the fast with Qatar Airways’ Iftar meal</a>

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Dine in the air

As someone born and raised in Patan, I knew that the city was rich in art, architecture and intangible heritage. But I never realised just how rich, and how little I knew about its hidden treasures until this book. Yala Mhasika/Exploring Lalitpur/Lalitpurko Chinari is published by the Lalitpur Chamber of Commerce &amp; Industry and introduces the city to the world, as well as to its own inhabitants. Lalitpur is popularly known as Patan, probably because of the pastures for livestock in its outskirts. Its original name in Nepal Bhasa is Yala, and is a blend of urban and rural, old and new.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260101120152_700fb4c7b27d78813f69347846403c492cd1d54e2f62e4ec097013714c4a2022.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="20260101120152_700fb4c7b27d78813f69347846403c492cd1d54e2f62e4ec097013714c4a2022" data-rendition-name="original" width="2000" height="1333" loading="lazy" alt="Exploring Lalitpur book review"> <figcaption>Patan Dhoka</figcaption> </figure>  Like other kingdoms in the valley of Swoniga, the dense urban cluster of houses, temples, monasteries were situated along the higher ground, while the farmlands were on the slopes leading to the rivers below. This unique townscape combined an urban lifestyle within a distinctly agriculture-based rural setting. The fertile soil, replenished by organic nutrients washed down from the streets above, as well as Kathmandu’s location on the ancient trade route between India and Tibet, provided the Valley’s kingdoms with prosperity – and thus the flourishing of art and culture over centuries. Most of Yala’s residents were farmers, traders, or artisans. Chinese visitors who came to Nepal in the 6th century saw that there were more traders than farmers, and more temples than houses. An entire street is inhabited by the descendants of Lhasa traders. Arniko is supposed to have been born in Yala.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260101120152_0fb490355fac9b8252c9abfbf5ef1bbac844b29103744a421eb6ef6dbc77dff7.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="20260101120152_0fb490355fac9b8252c9abfbf5ef1bbac844b29103744a421eb6ef6dbc77dff7" data-rendition-name="original" width="2000" height="1332" loading="lazy" alt="Exploring Lalitpur book review"> <figcaption>Kwonti area which houses five-storey Kumbeshwar temple dedicated to Shiva and Baglamukhi temple dedicated to Dasa Mahavidya shakti peeth.</figcaption> </figure>  Nepal exported goods and even minted coins for Tibet, and had a virtual monopoly of the major trans-Himalayan trade routes. This prosperity was reflected in monuments and shrines like the Kwa Baha Golden Temple. More so than the other three kingdoms of Swoniga, architecture flourished in Yala making it the centre for metal, stone and wood craft. The name Lalitpur means ‘city of fine art’ but with its sense of community, it might as well be a city of fine living. Legend also has it that the name Lalitpur comes from a farmer called Lalit who helped bring the rain god Karunamaya from Assam when the Valley was suffering a prolonged drought. Lalit’s shoulder beam stands to this day in Jhatapol. Disasters, invasion and <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/life-in-a-time-of-cholera">epidemics</a> were a recurring theme in Patan.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260101120152_b33b1024cb7a46f49fea35ecc9afa2740895907059d7a43c8bd6c463b1be05e7.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="20260101120152_b33b1024cb7a46f49fea35ecc9afa2740895907059d7a43c8bd6c463b1be05e7" data-rendition-name="original" width="2000" height="1333" loading="lazy" alt="Exploring Lalitpur book review"> <figcaption>Ajima of Haugal Tole which is the oldest stone scripture in Nepal with the Gaja Laxmi in Chyasal.</figcaption> </figure>  The book was put together by the heritage expert team of Rosha Bajracharya, Sunil Pandey and Anil Chitrakar and provides a socio-economic and political history of Patan – how it was always food surplus, thanks to sustainable farming until recently. Ground and drone images by Photo Venture Nepal in the book give us a rare new perspective on Patan. There is an entire chapter on the chariot festival of Karunamaya (Machhindranath), a community-managed festival with Barahi carpenters assembling the woodwork, vine engineers Yamva weaving rope and rattan for the 25m tall chariot, and Ghaku drivers controlling the speed and brakes as the structure rolls through narrow streets in the annual festival.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260101120152_d27b23aeb4548b0b64ab8ed20f40baa331060498c6b5443e2cb999b876c670af.jpg" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="20260101120152_d27b23aeb4548b0b64ab8ed20f40baa331060498c6b5443e2cb999b876c670af" data-rendition-name="original" width="2000" height="1333" loading="lazy" alt="Exploring Lalitpur book review"> <figcaption>Te Bahal in Patan which houses Karunamaya six months a year.</figcaption> </figure>  WALKING, WORSHIPPING The book can help in exploring Patan along five routes starting in Patan Dhoka, Pulchok, Shankhamul, Mahaboudha and Lagankhel with maps and details of the baha and bahil, shrines, ponds, open spaces, dhyochenn, courtyards and phalcha along the way. Because of its coffee-table size and heft, however, the guidebook is not practical to carry around. And despite detailed descriptions of the past and present of each site, readers are left wanting to know more about those places. It is proof of Patan’s vast treasures that even this book barely scratches the surface.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260101120152_31a597b7dc1bcc9f67b4f6a66b8c1c0e0a9406727389699e6aed9ac6c3c50901.jpg" data-media-id="editor_5" data-image-id="20260101120152_31a597b7dc1bcc9f67b4f6a66b8c1c0e0a9406727389699e6aed9ac6c3c50901" data-rendition-name="original" width="2000" height="1332" loading="lazy" alt="Exploring Lalitpur book review"> <figcaption>Patukodom where visitors can view what remains of the ancient Kirant palace.</figcaption> </figure>  Some of the lesser-known must-visit sites include Patukodom which is all that remains of a palace of the original Kirat inhabitants of Patan. An archaeological dig here would surely unearth hitherto unknown facets of pre-Newa Patan. Then there are the slightly out of the way shrines like Mahabouha, a replica of a temple in Bodhgaya which houses 3,341 terracotta Buddhas with 90 big statues and which took 35 years and four generations to complete.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260101120152_ffb657dc254f707dc1755f6f13b1ef67bb7183b6573da9678c54482129fb3878.jpg" data-media-id="editor_6" data-image-id="20260101120152_ffb657dc254f707dc1755f6f13b1ef67bb7183b6573da9678c54482129fb3878" data-rendition-name="original" width="2000" height="1333" loading="lazy" alt="Exploring Lalitpur book review"> <figcaption>Mahaboudha is a replica of a temple in Bodhgaya.</figcaption> </figure>  In a recent Patan by Night heritage walk, we learnt that Pim Bahal was the labour of love of a lakhe demon (now popularised as masked dancer) who had fallen for a local girl, and he dug the pond so she would not have to walk to a faraway spout to collect water. Nearby is the Charumati Chaitya, built by the daughter of Emperor Ashoka when she visited the Valley in the 3rd century BCE to spread Buddhism in Nepal. Interestingly, if Kathmandu is a city of temples, Patan is the centre of monasteries which represent a unique Tantric melding of Buddhist and Hindu forms. Examples are: the Tadham Cuka with relocated Licchavi-era chaityas symbolic of the four major events in Buddha’s life, Ajima of Haugal Tole which is the oldest stone scripture in Nepal with the Gaja Laxmi in Chyasal, and Bignantak Ganesa temple which is a manifestation of Shiva mingled with Vajrayana Buddhism.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260101120152_17a500e77f06b9881f684329e41d3482f6f6a639ffb929d8bb44e5af7934c61c.jpg" data-media-id="editor_7" data-image-id="20260101120152_17a500e77f06b9881f684329e41d3482f6f6a639ffb929d8bb44e5af7934c61c" data-rendition-name="original" width="2000" height="1333" loading="lazy" alt="Exploring Lalitpur book review"> <figcaption>Bignantak Ganesa temple.</figcaption> </figure>  &nbsp;Besides spatial descriptions, the book also explains the temporal by curating a detailed cultural calendar of Lalitpur with dates and places of jatra, rituals, devotional dances and festivals that weave the agricultural cycle with the zodiac.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260101120152_b8e1cc03653fea85dec84a7abee4fd594c35c6ad553769f37905eb5b38774e08.jpg" data-media-id="editor_8" data-image-id="20260101120152_b8e1cc03653fea85dec84a7abee4fd594c35c6ad553769f37905eb5b38774e08" data-rendition-name="original" width="2000" height="1125" loading="lazy" alt="Exploring Lalitpur book review"> <figcaption>Mipwa Lakhe of Patan which create fire in mid aid during performance.</figcaption> </figure>   <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260101120152_442e10bff842214e8c7522ebf6e63663599768db73bb57d999deff9de1b59375.jpg" data-media-id="editor_9" data-image-id="20260101120152_442e10bff842214e8c7522ebf6e63663599768db73bb57d999deff9de1b59375" data-rendition-name="original" width="2000" height="1333" loading="lazy" alt="Exploring Lalitpur book review"> <figcaption>Gan pyakhan or Astamatrika dance which is performed in Patan Darbar Squre during Dasain. </figcaption> </figure>  The very last chapter is dedicated to water and nature, what sustains lives and civilisations, and how Lalitpur continues to be the city it is because of the water supply system our ancestors left behind which function still, despite encroachment and pollution. ‘In the history of the world cities have been built, they thrived for some time and then became archaeological sites because they were not able to maintain the quality of air, water, and its soil,’ the authors write. ‘This led these cities to depopulate and ultimately die and are only referred to in history books. Lalitpur is not going to make the same mistake.’ &nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260104080132_3f403388d57da82b499d6c489a8f095002bf69f11e515e92fa96fb5ca3af69e9.jpg" data-media-id="editor_10" data-image-id="20260104080132_3f403388d57da82b499d6c489a8f095002bf69f11e515e92fa96fb5ca3af69e9" data-rendition-name="original" width="1136" height="702" loading="lazy" alt="Exploring Lalitpur"> </figure>

YALA

One of the few Newa towns situated outside Kathmandu Valley, Panauti still evokes the feeling of a place frozen in time.&nbsp; Largely untouched by haphazard urbanisation, this town 32km east of Kathmandu used to be a kingdom revered for the sacred confluence of the Punyamati and Rosi rivers.&nbsp; The Bramhayani temple is the site of a 12 yearly Makar Mela which is attended by devotees from as far away as India.&nbsp; Panauti’s crumbling monuments were restored in the 1990s by the French government. Temples, resting places, traditional homes were rebuilt and locals trained to revive their craft. Panauti and France marked 50 years of cooperation in September.&nbsp; However, the priceless murals on the temple walls are fading and need urgent restitution. Now, these crumbling wall paintings are meticulously documented in the Wall Paintings of Panauti and Their Context.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260106090116_31f6acf06ef879037fec8274b85153eab4468566abf71616490679bf8468b85d.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="20260106090116_31f6acf06ef879037fec8274b85153eab4468566abf71616490679bf8468b85d" data-rendition-name="original" width="1596" height="1074" loading="lazy" alt="Panauti murals"> </figure>  In his foreword, French researcher Gérard Toffin writes about some of the earliest wall paintings from the Malla period in Kathmandu, including a 17th century mural depicting the procession of Rato Machhindranath which has since been restored.&nbsp; Several other pieces still exist but in a pitiful state, defaced by scratches. ‘They were painted on a plaster coating made of soil, husks, or limestone, which were applied to the bricks making up the walls,’ Toffin notes.&nbsp; The book delves into the cult of Asta Matrika among Newa of all castes and classes, the first of which is Bramhayani. These all-pervading deities are linked to Shaktism which focuses on the importance of the female principle and together, combine the forces of life, sex and fertility with that of death and eros. The deities are painted on the wall, carved on the stone or moulded into metallic statues.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260106090120_836efd2b0a569d8ec0fb2c6651a29b8f2dd8f8f75b72e27bb86b0bfc0ad8461f.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="20260106090120_836efd2b0a569d8ec0fb2c6651a29b8f2dd8f8f75b72e27bb86b0bfc0ad8461f" data-rendition-name="original" width="1074" height="1434" loading="lazy" alt="Panauti murals"> </figure>  Riddhi Baba Pradhan, former director general of the Department of Archaeology who oversaw the restoration of Panauti 30 years ago, writes that a colourful wall painting depicting Buddha's past life at the Chabahil Chaitya built or restored during the reign of Lichhavi king Vrisdev in the 3rd century might be the earliest mural in Nepal. As for Panauti, a fragment from a 400-year-old scroll which illustrates a scene of Triveni Ghat with Dalinchok Hill in the background is likely the oldest. But that relic is currently at the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts in the United States.&nbsp; Pradhan recalls first encountering wall paintings inside Bramhayani temple which were deteriorated by smoke, leaky roof, dust, vermilion, sprinkles of animal blood and lack of maintenance. The team led by chemist Bhimvar Singh Thapa treated the wall paintings and some of the details were recovered including the paintings of Astamatrika and Asta Bhairav on the east, west and southern walls.&nbsp; PAINTINGS ARE NOT VISIBLE The murals were painted during the reign of the last Malla King of Bhaktapur Ranjit Malla and Queen Viswalaxmi Devi 300 years ago. But 40 years after the restoration, Pradhan notes that the murals are again in poor condition: ‘The paintings are not visible, the plaster is severely damaged and the surface has peeled off … electrical wires hang haphazardly inside the temple.’ The second lot of murals at Ghat Sattal are thought to have been commissioned during the late Malla period or the beginning of the Shah dynasty. Exterior walls depict incarnations of Lord Vishnu as well as Sesh Narayan, Ganesh, a scene of Samundra Manthan, of angels Maya, Moha, Ganga. Their attributes, dresses, ornaments, facial expressions, body postures are all skilfully represented but in a deteriorated condition.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260106090116_88d06703ae23a271905d81f35056d41df92cbbc4b9966fac3f34821659e585a8.jpg" data-media-id="editor_2" data-image-id="20260106090116_88d06703ae23a271905d81f35056d41df92cbbc4b9966fac3f34821659e585a8" data-rendition-name="original" width="588" height="862" loading="lazy" alt="Panauti murals "> </figure>  The wall paintings of Bramhayani Dyochhen are 90% degraded even though they were restored and repaired 40 years ago by the Panauti Integrated Project. Compared to other artefacts, wall paintings are more delicate to external factors, and if not preserved an important part of Nepal’s heritage will be lost.&nbsp; Furthermore, most of the wall paintings in Nepal are temperas, and not frescos. Tempera is painted with water-soluble mineral or vegetable pigments fixed with glue on the cow dung clay plaster on the brick walls. While Nepal’s focus has been on the repatriation of stolen artefacts from abroad, religious and cultural objects within the country like the Panauti murals need urgent attention.&nbsp; This slim publication by Panauti Municipality is an important call to begin the work before it is too late.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260101120124_d0efa1e57b2710a206beb37c7e934ac34e694afc278985934eac2fc52124a92c.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="20260101120124_d0efa1e57b2710a206beb37c7e934ac34e694afc278985934eac2fc52124a92c" data-rendition-name="original" width="1136" height="702" loading="lazy" alt="Wall Paintings of Panauti"> </figure>

Saving Panauti's murals

In 2025, Nepal’s Ministry of Tourism <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/the-everest-industry" target="_blank">added six new 8,000m peaks </a>to those listed on its website. These are subsidiary summits of <a href="https://explorersweb.com/kangchenjungas-challenging-confusing-subpeaks/" target="_blank">Kangchenjunga</a> and <a href="https://explorersweb.com/through-the-unknown-to-the-impossible-lhotse-middle/" target="_blank">Lhotse</a>, which some view as insufficiently independent to be called separate peaks. In 2024, the international mountaineering federation (UIAA) responded to a request by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) and the government to officially recognise these peaks. While recognising that ‘there is no one definition of a “mountain” or a “peak” or a “top” or “point” in topographic terms’, and encouraging further debate the UIAA’s opinion was that the 8,000m peaks should continue to the ‘Classic 14’, first completed by Reinhold Messner in 1986. The degree of prominence and isolation of <a href="https://www.climbing.com/news/new-8000-meter-mountains-nepal/?scope=initial" target="_blank">the six new peaks </a>varies, with Yalung Kang having the strongest claim to being a separate peak with a prominence of 135m, but they are all separate enough to be included on some peak-bagging lists. The UIAA’s own list of 4,000m summits in the European Alps includes Punta Giordani with a prominence of only 6m. Whatever the case for the six peaks being geographically separate mountains, they represent significant climbing challenges. They are not minor tops that can simply be ‘bagged’ on route to a main summit. In the case of <a href="https://explorersweb.com/through-the-unknown-to-the-impossible-lhotse-middle/" target="_blank">Lhotse Middle and Lhotse Shar</a>, no one has ever managed to traverse between them and Lhotse itself.  <figure><img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260107080144_881321a6e46818beb7bbd4fe6f21589d89d19bf77ae8218474d373ef7ab0c431.png" data-media-id="editor_5" data-image-id="20260107080144_881321a6e46818beb7bbd4fe6f21589d89d19bf77ae8218474d373ef7ab0c431" data-rendition-name="original" width="2888" height="1590" loading="lazy" alt="New 8,000ers"><figcaption>Nepal’s 8 existing 8,000ers: Chomolungma 8,848.86, Kangchenjunga 8,586, Lhotse 8,516, Makalu 8,485, Manaslu 8,163, Dhaulagiri 8,167, Annapurna 8,091, Cho Oyu 8,201. Photo: GOOGLE EARTH PRO</figcaption></figure>   <figure><img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260107080144_27bf905c1a559c46819dc96ca33d22c27fc301d415fc034f26b8acd105c12da7.png" data-media-id="editor_6" data-image-id="20260107080144_27bf905c1a559c46819dc96ca33d22c27fc301d415fc034f26b8acd105c12da7" data-rendition-name="original" width="1750" height="976" loading="lazy" alt="New 8,000ers"><figcaption>Nepal has listed six additional 8,000ers: Yalung Kang (8,505, Yalung Kang West 8,077, Kanchenjunga Central (8,473, Kanchenjunga South 8,476, Lhotse Middle 8,410, and Lhotse Shar 8,400. Photo: KUNDA DIXIT</figcaption></figure>  Several fine routes have already been climbed on these mountains, such as Slovenians Andrej Štremfelj and Marko Prezelj’s alpine style ascent of the South-West Ridge of Kangchenjunga South. The six peaks have not yet achieved universal acceptance, but it is possible that climbing an expanded list of 20 eight-thousanders could become a new mountaineering challenge, just as the 14 classic peaks are today. It is therefore interesting to analyse who is currently closest to achieving this goal, using data from The Himalayan Database and other Internet research. The first conclusion of my analysis is that these six additional peaks have received far less attention than the classic 14 eight-thousanders. One of them, Yalung Kang West, has never been climbed or even attempted: probably because it is a subsidiary peak of <a href="https://explorersweb.com/kangchenjungas-challenging-confusing-subpeaks/" target="_blank">Yalung Kang</a> which is itself a subsidiary peak. The other five peaks have seen a total of 138 ascents. Just 101 people have ever climbed one or more of the additional peaks, which compares with 354 people who climbed Everest on a single day: 23 May 2019. Russian Evgeni Vinogradski is unique in having climbed five of the six new peaks. He has also climbed six of the classic 8,000ers, giving him a total of 11 out of the 20 peaks on the expanded list. Vinogradski is now 80 and is unlikely to increase this total. Several other former Soviet climbers have climbed three of the new peaks, having participated in the 1989 traverse of the four main summits of Kangchenjunga. This includes two legends of Soviet climbing: Kazakh Anatoli Boukreev and Ukrainian Sergey Bershov, each of whom has climbed 13 out of the 20 peaks on the extended list. Boukreev died attempting Annapurna in 1997. Bershov, one of the only men to have ever climbed Lhotse South Face, is now 78 and, although he was in good form when I met him in Chamonix last summer, he is unlikely to further extend his tally. The addition of the new peaks does not take any of these climbers beyond the total of 14 peaks achieved by the 76 climbers who have completed the classic ‘Himalayan Crown’. Of those who have climbed all 14 classic eight-thousanders, only one, <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/um-hong-gil-s-project-impossible" target="_blank">Korean Um Hong-Gil</a>, has climbed any of the six additional peaks.  <figure><img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20260107080144_5651fc6445f5e5fd838f28e1eac1da45da136b309a4a00db1e4aafa7d4836251.png" data-media-id="editor_9" data-image-id="20260107080144_5651fc6445f5e5fd838f28e1eac1da45da136b309a4a00db1e4aafa7d4836251" data-rendition-name="original" width="2142" height="1310" loading="lazy" alt="New 8,000ers"><figcaption>Only one mountaineer, Korean Um Hong-Gil, has climbed any of the six additional peaks.</figcaption></figure>  Um climbed both Lhotse Shar and Yalung Kang, giving him a total of 16 summits. He required four attempts to climb Lhotse Shar, including one attempt in which he turned back just 100m from the summit following the deaths of two teammates. He finally succeeded in 2007 via a route up the Lhotse South Face. If a race to climb all 20 eight-thousanders were to begin, Um is currently in the lead. <a href="https://www.himalayandatabase.com/" target="_blank">The Himalayan Database</a> also lists two additional mountains in Nepal not included among the peaks announced by the Ministry of Tourism: Annapurna Central and Annapurna East. If these are included, bringing the total to 22 peaks, a few additional climbers deserve mention. Poles Piotr Pustelnik and the great Jerzy Kukuczka have both climbed all 14 classic eight-thousanders as well as Annapurna East, giving them 15 out of 22. Swiss climber Erhard Loretan climbed all 14 as well, and both Annapurna subsidiary summits, giving him a total of 16 out of 22 peaks. Annapurna East has a greater prominence than some of the 6 new peaks proposed by Nepal, but Broad Peak Central in the Karakoram has the greatest prominence of any subsidiary 8000m summit. Kukuczka has also climbed Broad Peak Central, so if the list is extended to 23 peaks, he has 16, equal with Loretan and Um. Then, there is a case for Shishapangma Central in China, which further complicates the task of coming up with a definite extended list. At the moment, these subsidiary summits are not attracting a lot of attention: of the 138 summit climbs on them, only 12 occurred in the last 25 years and none since 2011. Most climbers like to have some wide recognition of a target before investing time and money in trying to achieve it, and this may make it hard to build interest. But as completing the classic 8,000m peaks starts to become a rather frequent occurrence, some may be attracted to the longer list. If this new challenge catches on, as the Ministry of Tourism presumably hopes, how long will it be before someone passes Um Hong-Gil’s total and how long before someone climbs all 20 or 22 or 23 summits? <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/comment/dispelling-myths-about-climbing" target="_blank">Edward Morgan</a> is a British author and climber based in Switzerland. His first book, Lhotse South Face - The Wall of Legends, has been published in several languages and his second book, Chasing Mallory's Dream is due out in the UK this year.

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