There is a special place for Italian cuisine the world over. Kathmandu is no exception. Pastas and pizzas have become as much of a household name as any Indian or Chinese dish. One of the first few restaurants that introduced Mediterranean cuisine to the Nepali palate was Olive Garden at Hotel Radisson in Lazimpat at a time when the Italian food culture was yet to create a stir in the country. Radisson opened Olive Garden in 1998, the same year it was also set up, making the restaurant only a second of its kind after Fire and Ice pizzeria to specialise in Italian cuisine in Nepal.&nbsp; Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/review/khana-khanu-bho">Khana khanu bho?</a>, Sonia Awale  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230823100820_4cd381ce972b54005b31768d3ca1c0ee83f65356da24c326c5b7cd81a24559e7.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="20230823100820_4cd381ce972b54005b31768d3ca1c0ee83f65356da24c326c5b7cd81a24559e7" data-rendition-name="original" width="1500" height="1000" loading="lazy" alt="Olive garden"> <figcaption>Spaghetti con Gamberi. Photo: PINKI SRIS RANA</figcaption> </figure>  Serving guests with an à la carte menu for over two decades, Olive Garden has now reopened after a four-year hiatus following the Covid-19 pandemic but with some delectable changes. Located at the lobby level of Radisson Hotel’s main building, the restaurant now offers a five-course meal with a table d'hôte menu, a fixed menu opening exclusively for dinner time between 6-10:30PM. “We have tailored the menu and timing targeting the family and married couples keeping in mind their work hours,” says Kedar Pandey, director of Food and Beverage at Radisson. “One doesn’t have to spend much time deciding what they want to eat. We have meticulously curated the menu for them.” Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/review/nepali-vegan">Nepali Vegan</a>, Sahina Shrestha  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230823100820_bb6e6aa1f87f15e769b93eb7f938f2983433c501fbfbe444b7be34dd632538e6.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="20230823100820_bb6e6aa1f87f15e769b93eb7f938f2983433c501fbfbe444b7be34dd632538e6" data-rendition-name="original" width="1500" height="1000" loading="lazy" alt="Olive garden"> <figcaption>Photo: SHRISTI KARKI</figcaption> </figure>  The restaurant’s soft yellow glow makes for a cosy picture. A lighted candle on each table and a soft melody in the background sets the mood right for an intimate candlelight dinner, especially on a rainy evening. The restaurant can seat 46 people and the management is planning to add a live piano solo to accompany the dining experience. There are two options for the table d'hôte menu. Within each course, there are additional 2-3 options offering both vegetarian and non-vegetarian delicacies as per one's preferences. Either of the two options of the full-course menu is available at a net total of Rs.4,500 per person. The same meal with a bottle of Italian wine is Rs11,000. A single Italian dish from the five-course meal can cost up to Rs2,500. Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/multimedia/exploring-nepal-s-culinary-diversity">Exploring Nepal's culinary diversity</a>, Kedar Sharma and Kiran Sharma  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230823100820_3af39a723e64e0ed5be4df73dc1849f6de0f9c47f89e05285fb61a87be518f14.jpg" data-media-id="editor_5" data-image-id="20230823100820_3af39a723e64e0ed5be4df73dc1849f6de0f9c47f89e05285fb61a87be518f14" data-rendition-name="original" width="1516" height="1000" loading="lazy" alt="Olive garden"> <figcaption>Classic Tiramisu. Photo: PINKI SRIS RANA</figcaption> </figure>  Providing a five-course meal at that price, is not exorbitant by today's standards and is comparable to any other high-end restaurant in Kathmandu. &nbsp;&nbsp; The full course is packed with elevated flavours: Zuppa soup Minestrone is rich tomato broth with zucchini and carrots. Topped with basil leaves, it was served with a basket of Italian bread. For the Antipasti, there is ‘Gnocchi alla Sorrentina’ which hit all the right spots to whip up the taste buds. Gnocchi made of mashed potatoes, flour and eggs with cherry-like tomato toppings and garlic sauce had a base of green basil pesto sauce. Dip the gnocchi in both sauces for a burst of flavours. Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/review/terrace-garden-brings-mexico-to-nepal">Terrace garden brings Mexico to Nepal</a>, Nepali Times  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230823100820_00a9ee03f95fdf8bb5e57e83a688efc427a572fe6599a8d13aa1a8e3f00fe5bc.jpg" data-media-id="editor_7" data-image-id="20230823100820_00a9ee03f95fdf8bb5e57e83a688efc427a572fe6599a8d13aa1a8e3f00fe5bc" data-rendition-name="original" width="1500" height="1000" loading="lazy" alt="Olive garden"> <figcaption>Photo: SHRISTI KARKI</figcaption> </figure>  The ‘Spaghetti con Gamberi’ Is &nbsp;served with shrimp in red tomato sauce. The main course Secondi can be the ‘Parmigiana di Pollo’ -- breaded chicken topped with melted cheese and the grana padano layered over it. The dish is served with a base of tomato sauce with broccoli and carrots on the side. Last but not least is the Classic Tiramisu for the Dolci dessert. After every dish with some form of tangy tomato sauce, this sweet and sour creamy dessert with a tinge of lemon was a fresh change to the palate -- just the right way to end one’s hearty meal. Olive Garden sources its ingredients from Italy itself, and Executive Chef Gyanesh Dass has more than 25 years of experience in continental cuisine and says: “We have tweaked the dishes just right to serve the Nepali palate all while staying true to our Italian roots.” Olive Garden Radisson, Lazimpat 01 4511818 Everyday 6-10:30PM Read Also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/flavours-from-nepal">Flavours from Nepal</a>, Prashanta Khanal

Pinki Sris Rana

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Radisson's Olive Garden returns

<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114121112/637222aa9c7e80680e0c030cjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="4000" height="3000"/><figcaption>Photo: BISHISHTA RAI</figcaption></figure>In another sign that things might be returning to normal after the long pandemic closure, Kathmandu is hosting a Thai food festival.Before the pandemic, Bangkok was among the most popular tourism destinations for Nepalis holidaying abroad. It was Thai International that started the first regular jet service to Kathmandu, and many Burmese of Nepali descent live and work in Thailand.Although Thai International has not resumed its Kathmandu-Bangkok flights after the pandemic, Nepal Airlines has. And there is talk of the Thai Smile budget airline starting flights to Kathmandu and Bhairawa.In a another sign of revival, Soaltee Hotel has invited Chef Pairaj Polgeng to Nepal to lead a 16-day food festival at the Bao Xuan restaurant, and he brings back the authentic taste of Thailand to Nepal.“Thai food is aromatic, spicy and tasty,” explains Polgeng. “In one bite you can taste everything – the galangal, lemongrass, coconut, chilies, and it is a burst of taste.”<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114121112/637222ad9c7e80680e0c030djpeg.jpg" alt="" width="784" height="880"><figcaption>Photo: BISHISHTA RAI</figcaption></figure>Polgeng has also brought with him the genuine ingredients including Kaffir lime, Thai chilies, galangal and pandan leaves some of which he uses to make several dishes including the highlight of the demonstration night, Gaeng Keow Wan Kai which is green Thai chicken curry.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114121112/637222b09c7e80680e0c030ejpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1620" height="1080"><figcaption>Photos: Soaltee Hotel</figcaption></figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114121112/637222b39c7e80680e0c030fjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1619" height="1080"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114121112/637222b79c7e80680e0c0310jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1620" height="1080"><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114121112/637222ba9c7e80680e0c0311jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="4000" height="3000"><figcaption>Photo: BISHISHTA RAI</figcaption></figure><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114121112/637222bd9c7e80680e0c0312jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="4000" height="3000"><figcaption>Photo: BISHISHTA RAI</figcaption></figure>The curry presented on a ceramic bowl is shiny green, steaming, creamy accompanied with aroma, taste and fragrance of spices and coconut milk. The meat is coarsely chopped and strewn in a sauce that mixes hot and sweet flavors. Neither taste is overlapping, every bite is a burst of flavour: the lime, the aftertaste of palm sugar, and enough chili to gulp down more water. Yet leaving everyone wanting for more.The fact that many of the ingredients cannot be found in Nepal and that the real stuff is used, as well as the addition of Nepali touches to the presentation also give the dishes a unique selling point.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114121112/637222c19c7e80680e0c0313jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="3000" height="4000"><figcaption>Green Curry. Photo: BISHISHTA RAI</figcaption></figure>Chef Polgeng who has over three decades of experience working with reputed international hotels in Muscat and Dubai was in his element preparing and sharing over 35 full-flavoured dishes bringing Kathmandu closer to the expansive gastronomic culture of Thailand.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114121112/637222c59c7e80680e0c0314jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1621" height="1080"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114121112/637222c89c7e80680e0c0315jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1620" height="1080">The Thai Food Festival has returned to Soaltee after a two year long hiatus following the pandemic during which the organisers found that more people were eager to try this Southeast Asian cuisine than ever before.“We realised many people wanted to try Thai food but we are not bringing just any Thai food but authentic dishes prepared by a Thai chef,” says Pratiksha Basnet at Soaltee.Some of the dishes participants got to try include the Tom Yum Goong, Som Tum which is the famed raw papaya salad, Prawn Cake, Chicken Pandan Leaf, Pad Thai and everyone’s favourite dessert mango sticky rice and banana coconut milk, to name a few.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114121112/637222cc9c7e80680e0c0316jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1620" height="1080">The all-time favourite Tom Yum Goong is another popular show stealer, made from scratch with original ingredients that complement each other. The hot and sour soup was red, vibrant and flavourful.For those who cannot handle their spice, there was an option of Kaeng Lueang, a yellow Thai curry which exudes a creamy richness, and is mild and soothing to the tongue. The curry made with lemongrass, yellow chili, coriander and other ingredients goes well with the fried rice. But the best part of the meal is the gentle coconut flavor infused in the dishes.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114121112/637222cf9c7e80680e0c0317jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1619" height="1080">One could happily pack a meal entirely made of snacks too – spicy chicken Thai salad, chicken pandan leaf, stir-fried chicken, Pad Thai and fried rice.The popular papaya salad isrefreshing, sweet and tangy. The chicken, tender and fried lightly in oyster sauce, tastes of white pepper and mild garlic. The pad Thai noodles have sprouts and hence a slight crunch. The noodles and fried rice, not as loaded with fresh hot chilies as other dishes, go well with the curry.From Tom Yum to Gaeng Keow Wan Kai, it is the honesty and love in this lavish feast that makes Chef Polgeng's visit such a gastronomic delight.Till 2 July, 7pm-10.45pm, Bao Xuan Restaurant, Soaltee Hotel, KathmanduRead more: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/kathmandus-own-eataly/">Kathmandu’s own ‘Eataly’</a>, Sonia Awale

Thai cuisine returns to Kathmandu

<figure><img width="4875" height="3768" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114101140/63720d909c7e80680e0b78d1jpeg.jpg" alt=""/><figcaption>All photos: L’ITALIANO</figcaption></figure>It may not be part of the famous artisanal food and beverage marketplace chain, but a new Jhamel restaurant comes closest to being Kathmandu's own version of Eataly. <a href="https://vespercafe.com/">L'Italiano</a> opened its doors this week for Kathmanduities to indulge in Italian fine dining with authentic cuisine from Italy that ranks second only to Chinese in popularity worldwide. One might think the Nepali palate is used to Italian food -- after all, the ease of preparing pasta dishes have meant that it has started replacing <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/exploring-nepals-culinary-diversity/">dal bhat tarkari</a> in many households, and the <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=15241#.YjBxhO5BxH0">pizzas</a> are hot favourites after <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/wow-binod/">momos</a> in restaurants. Thamel’s <a href="https://www.fireandicepizzeria.com/">Fire and Ice</a> and <a href="https://roadhouse.com.np/">Roadhouse pizzerias</a> have been consistently popular for decades in Kathmandu. Establishments specialising in Italian food are aplenty, perhaps only behind Indian and Chinese restaurants. So what does one new Italian restaurant add to Kathmandu's growing food culture? Much like momos are a variation of Tibetan dumplings, but with a wide range of types, ingredients and spices, Italian food has gone through alterations in Nepal. So much so that locally served pizza, pasta, risotto and lasagne do not taste anything like they are supposed to, says Italian chef Andrea Cannalire who was recently in town. <figure><img width="1694" height="917" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114101140/63720d959c7e80680e0b78d2jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>Cannalire is a Michelin star chef based in Ostuni in Italy, close to Francavilla Fontana where he grew up. While he was working in Phuket in Thailand last year, he found out that a restaurant in Kathmandu was looking to rebrand itself.Through a common friend, Cannalire agreed to visit Nepal and was here for over a month training Nepali chefs before the grand opening of L’Italiano this week.“Italian cooking that has evolved in Kathmandu has gone through some major transformation. It has reached a point where I’m having to introduce the traditional way of doing Italian cooking,” says Cannalire, who has over a decade-long experience in gourmet cooking. “Chef as well as the clientele, have to be educated on what authentic Italian is.”During his month touring various restaurants in Kathmandu and Pokhara, Cannalire got to like the Nepali Thali and <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/benefits-of-barley,1924">Phaparko</a> Dhido. However, he noticed that many eateries overdo spices so that it is difficult to savour the true flavour of food, for example in preparing mutton curry. This is why he has taken special care to train Nepali chefs in L'Italiano to use spices in moderation.  <figure><img width="5760" height="3840" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114101140/63720d989c7e80680e0b78d3jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption> </figcaption></figure><figure><img width="5760" height="3840" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114101140/63720d9c9c7e80680e0b78d4jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>A big part of the mutated taste of Italian food in Nepal is the lack of genuine ingredients. Kathmandu markets do not have anything close to real mozzarella, and the prosciutto is not the genuine ham from Parma.Similarly, lasagne is traditionally made with ragu that has beef mince in it, which means most restaurants would have modified it."Nepalis seem to love chicken topping in pizza, but you would never do that in Italy," quips Cannalire, who got interested in cooking from a young age.“Every time I went to restaurants with my family when I was a boy, I used to wonder what went on behind the doors that lead to the kitchen,” recalls Cannalire. “This extended even to the games we played as a child, I used to be fascinated even with a play kitchen my cousin had.”Cannalire first started working in restaurants around his hometown, but he started exploring and interning at different places, improving his cooking skills. Before long, he found his calling in gourmet cooking and returned home to southern Italy to work in a hotel restaurant nearby. <figure><img width="5760" height="3840" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114101140/63720da09c7e80680e0b78d5jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption> </figcaption></figure><figure><img width="5760" height="3840" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114101140/63720da59c7e80680e0b78d6jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>The newly launched L’Italiano is housed in the same space and is owned by some of the same people behind The Vesper House. The establishment itself has gone through several alterations in both décor and food over the years.<a href="https://www.vesperhouse.com/">Vesper Café and Restaurant</a> had carved a niche in Patan's Jhamel restaurant neighbourhood. After its quaint red mud-brick house was damaged in the 2015 earthquake, it reopened almost immediately next door to continue to cater to wine and cheese lovers.Post-pandemic, it has reinvented itself into a fine-dining Italian restaurant with new décor, and with inputs from Cannalire, will specialise in pasta dishes, hand-cooked and in genuine Italian al dente style, so that the pasta has a little bite to it.Ashank SJB Rana of L’Italiano realises the challenge of maintaining the high-quality set by the Italian chef, and plans to bring Cannalire back every year for refresher training for his chefs.Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/exploring-nepals-culinary-diversity/">Exploring Nepal’s culinary diversity</a>, Kedar Sharma and Kiran Sharma“To have good quality food, you don’t always need to import ingredients, you should know how to play with locally sourced produce as well,” says Rana who studied wine management at Hong Kong Polytechnic University. “Our goal is to give our clients an authentic taste of Italy. But this does not mean it will be an uber-sophisticated space."The Vesper House suffered much like any other establishment during the initial days of the pandemic. But as the impact of the Covid-19 declined, people started dining out, its usual expatriate clientele was largely replaced by Nepalis.The Vesper House is one of the biggest importers of fine wine in Nepal, where Merlot and Chardonnay remains popular. Its extensive wine cellar with large collection from Australia, Spain, Germany, Italy and France will continue to be a part of the new establishment. Vesper also has its own wine label appealing to a wide variety of palates, and works with restaurants to advise them on their wine menus.Read more: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/food-of-the-royals/">Food of the royals</a>, Nepali Times

Sonia Awale

Kathmandu's own 'Eataly'

<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110814114/636a544e9c7e80680e0523a2jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="1192"/>Mughlai food, or the food of the Mughal emperors of India, is known to be rich, spicy and meaty. Though Mughlai cuisine is known for its meat dishes, Kakori at Soaltee Crowne Plaza is also making an effort to cater to vegetarians.The restaurant has brought in chef Hardev Saini, who adds even more exotic flavours to the menu. His platter of vegetarian appetisers is, well, appetising: beginning with Alu Nizashe. Whole potatoes are peeled and roasted, and served on skewers. Combined with yoghurt chutney and green chili chutney, the potatoes make for a crunchy start to the meal.Khumb kaju ki galawat tastes as exotic as it sounds. The little nuggets are made of mushroom and garnished with a cashew, but they look and taste very much like mutton. These minibytes go well with warki paratha, a rich, buttered flat bread. The veg kofta biryani is a pleasant surprise – a packet full of mild and delicious flavours that provide the full satisfaction of biryani minus the meat.You can savour all this and the more usual Mughlai cuisine from Lucknow at an ongoing  food festival at Kakori restaurant, famous for its north Indian dishes. While most Indian and Nepali food can be made at home, Mughlai cuisine is complicated to prepare and needs slow cooking over low heat for hours and sometimes days at a time.For meat lovers, Kakori offers the usual delights from Chef Hardev Saini. Gosht Seekh Gelafi, a type of minced chicken dish mixed with an array of aromatic spices, onion, coriander and capsicum, is a pure a burst of flavours when served with mint chutney. Kalmi Kebab is a classic tandoori chicken marinated with garlic, onion, cashew, yogurt and spices, and is so soft it melts in one’s mouth. Equally tender is Kundan Kaliyan, almost a typical mutton curry except cooked in brown onion and brown nuts, enhancing its flavour.Galouti (which literally translates as ‘soft’) Kebab is another lamb dish, this time based on minced meat marinated with ground spice powder. This delectable kebab with strong hints of green cardamom is often served with a tang of lime and coriander leaves. There is also an option of Keema paratha for those who would like to go for Mughlai’s complete non-veggie experience.But the highlight of the meal has to be Kakori’s dessert selection, which we were pleasantly surprised to learn includes the unique mirch ka meetha (pictured above). Chili does not sound like a great option for dessert, but here the chef minces red capsicum finely, fries it and later adds the sweeteners, making a dish as rich and delicious as gajar ka halwa. In fact, it is so flavourful that one forgets it is made of capsicum.Kakori will be revising its menu after the festival, so several dishes that are most popular vegetarian dishes during the event will be incorporated into its menu. Food lovers can also enjoy soothing musical numbers with their meal as gazal performers croon nearby.Mughlai Food FestivalKakori, Soaltee Crowne PlazaUntil 31 August

Yes, Mughlai cuisine can be vegetarian

<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108111152/636a35199c7e80680e048290jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="998"/><figcaption>Photos: SHEILIN TEO</figcaption></figure>The <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/page/Patan-town-as-a-museum-piece" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Patan Museum</a> is a must-visit among the draws of Kathmandu Valley: tastefully designed and informative, its curation is logical yet sensitive to the nuances of the richly-layered heritage and local traditions. Visitors can trace chronological lines in Nepal’s cultural history, and are guided to recognise stylistic themes in the faces of gods and goddesses and the iconography that they pass on the streets of the Valley’s old towns.Visitors get an introduction to the symbiosis of Hinduism and Buddhism in the Nepa civilisation. Besides the artifacts on display, the corridors provide an unassuming serenity, places of repose and leisure of rulers past. We see courtyards where the public would gather to celebrate, debate or venerate, and sense a graciousness, a deep attention to detail. And most striking: these are living traditions that carry on to the present day.Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/saving-kathmandus-past-for-the-future/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Saving Kathmandu's past for the future</a>, Sonia Awale<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108111152/636a351b9c7e80680e048291jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1250" height="1252">There is the bathing well, (tusha hiti) of King Siddhi Narasimha Malla in <a style="background-color: #ffffff; letter-spacing: 0.01em;" href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=17399#.XKXurlUzaUk" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Sundari Chok</a> with its gilded garuda spout. Or, a large display of a gilded pair of the Buddha’s hands, ‘calling the earth to witness’, depicting the moment he attained enlightenment.In these days of quick-fix concrete and steel, visitors sense a dwindling appreciation of lingering around a water well, resting on a courtyard ledge, or leaning in to admire the intricate carvings of a temple’s eaves.Which is why it is important to accept the invitation to spend a day at the museum, to explore, to rest, to compose one’s impressions of the city, and even rekindle the divine spark with greenery, nourishing food and inspiring architecture.Monuments are kept alive by their relevance to the community. In Nepal, they have been maintained by devotion: annual rites and festivals that ensure places of worship are regularly tended to and repaired by devotees. In cases where monuments are given into state care, they have often fallen into disrepair.Luckily, the team led by <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/nation/The-guardian-of-the-shadows-%20G%C3%B6tz%20Hagm%C3%BCller,3352" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Austrian architect Götz Hagmüller</a> that was given the charge to restore Patan Durbar in the 1990s, took to the task with an intention to turn the palace complex into a self-sustaining cultural institution, capable of withstanding not just natural shakeups but also political instability.In its modernisation into a world-class cultural treasure, the palace complex underwent a significant rearrangement to house not only artifacts, but a constant flow of people within what would once have been quiet, private quarters of the royal court. Amid the mostly faithful restoration of the palace to its Malla heritage, the Patan Museum also features a clutch of modern elements: new materials and motifs seamlessly worked into the intricate historical fabric of the East Wing’s Malla and <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/the-rana-reign-a-recap-of-history,3751" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Rana styles</a>. As part of the rearrangement, a graceful timber staircase leads from a new foyer to a stunning display of iconic tundaal: intricately carved timber struts featuring deities in various poses.The columns and capitals supporting the restored Rana-style wing are detailed in steel and timber, to clean modernist lines, and hold their own within the simple brick and white plastered detailing of the period. They also feature a postmodern take on the scrolls of old Newa capitals, reinterpreting the decorative art of traditions past, whilst acknowledging the architectural language of the restoration’s own timeline. At the Museum Café, new metal-roofed pavilions also feature similar modern detailing in timber, a graceful reminder within the new construction of its heritage.The restoration efforts that led to the establishment of Patan’s Royal Palace as a public museum in 1997 features modern twists on traditional motifs, designed in timber and steel by Hagmüller’s team. The clean lines and geometric postmodern interpretation of decorative Newa carving presents a nod to the architectural language of the restoration’s own timeline.Patan Museum8am-6.30pmCourtyards and access to the Museum Cafe are open 7am-6.30pm.Entry fees to the Museum:Foreigners: Rs1,000 (included in Patan entry fee)SAARC: Rs250Nepali Rs30Nepali Students Rs5 (with ID)<a href="http://www.patanmuseum.gov.np/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">http://www.patanmuseum.gov.np/</a>Read also:<a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/In-perfect-harmony,3251" target="_blank" rel="noopener">In perfect harmony</a>, Sahina Shrestha<a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=15470#.XKXxaFUzaUl" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Ancient mordern</a>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ViWX21zLjVQ&amp;feature=youtu.be<h2>Heritage gastronomy</h2><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108111152/636a351f9c7e80680e048292jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1250" height="833"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>Ever since it opened more than 20 years ago, <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/patan-museum-updated,1304" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Patan Museum</a> has been a quiet sanctuary hidden away from the densely-packed city outside. And in a tranquil, leafy corner of the complex is an oasis within an oasis: the Patan Museum Café.Under new management by Dwarika’s Hotel, the restaurant offers a delectable selection of continental cuisine, as well as finessed pickings of Nepali and Asian dishes. The menu features healthy salads, brunch specialties, snacks and full-portioned meals, hinting at the raison d’être of the place: all-day dining, whether you choose to start, continue or end your day at the museum.Lush greenery reaches up to rooflines of weathered jhingati tiles. Artfully contained shrubs spread against the geometric curves of patterned brick and into dining nooks and inviting enclosures. Low-slung pavilions reminiscent of Patan’s many resting platforms (pati) provide shady private cubicles, as do cafe-style umbrellas dappled with shadowplay as the trees dance with the wind.Austrian <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/blogs/thebrief/2016/06/15/gotz-hagmuller-awarded/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">restoration architect Götz Hagmüller</a> also transformed the Kaiser Café in the Garden of Dreams in Thamel into the popular destination it is today. It seems fitting, then, that both these treasured historic restorations now feature bars and cafés managed by Dwarika’s Hotel whose revenues contribute to the upkeep of the sites. Patan Museum Café now has a menu and service that places quality and consistency foremost.Read also:<a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/nation/The-guardian-of-the-shadows-%20G%C3%B6tz%20Hagm%C3%BCller,3352" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The guardian of the shadows</a>, Sebastian Gansrigler<a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=19497#.XKXvEFUzaUk" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Living in Bhaktapur the Austrian way</a><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108111152/636a35229c7e80680e048293jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="476" height="1024">Museum menuOrganic produce from Dwarika’s own organic farm in Dhulikel features on the cafe menu.Caprese saladCreamy buffalo mozzarella, organic tomatoes and torn holy basil, drizzled with rich, flavourful olive oil, and a selection of viscous balsamic or crisp white wine vinegar to liven the palate.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108111152/636a35259c7e80680e048294jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1250" height="1671">Baked Jalkapur fish with quinoa and vegetable saladA sweet sticky sauce accentuates the mouthwatering caramelisation of a fried Jalkapur fillet, cooked to moist, breakaway softness. Soft quinoa and hearty vegetables complete the healthy ensemble.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108111152/636a35289c7e80680e048295jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1250" height="938">Shrimp bisqueA rich bisque, perfectly sweet and buttery, with pieces of cooked shrimp and a hint of cream, garnished with a sprig of micro herbs.AffogatoA generous double shot of espresso with a double scoop of vanilla ice cream, served in style in a martini glass.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108111152/636a352c9c7e80680e048296jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1250" height="1568"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>Almond chocolate cakeA luscious log of nutty chocolate cake, smothered in rich chocolate ganache, accompanied by an assortment of fresh fruits and slivered almonds.Read also:<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/nepoli-nepali/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Napoli Nepali</a>, Kunda Dixit<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/northeast-indian-cuisine-is-a-hot-new-sensation-in-nepal/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Northeast Indian cuisine is a hot new sensation in Nepal</a>, Sewa Bhattarai

Patan's museum piece

<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110811114/636a29a59c7e80680e0458dcjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="3000" height="4000"/>Verdant, rich and lush Kerala is often uttered in the same sentence as ‘god’. The southern Indian state was made famous by Arundhati Roy’s novel A God of Small Things, and it is called ‘god’s own country’ because it is said to have been created by Lord Parusram for his devotees. Added to all that, it is Kerala cuisine that is actually divine.Many in Kathmandu will be familiar with dosa through the Indian restaurants in the capital, but they maybe have not heard of appam, its cousin from Kerala. Appam is a round bread half the size of dosa, crispy on the sides and soft and fluffy in the center. Unlike dosa which is made of rice and dal flours, appam is made of raw and cooked rice puree. At Soaltee's Kerala Food Festival that begins 12 March,  you can try out this exotic staple that is hard to find in Kathmandu's Indian restaurants.The festival offers many other novelties from Kerala state famous for its placid palm-fringed backwaters. Puttu and idiyappam, other dishes which substitute for rice and roti are available, as are many chicken, fish, and vegetable dishes. Chef Rejimon P S from Kerala is making making the dishes, so you can be sure of their authenticity."The main ingredient in Keralan dishes is coconut," explains Chef Rejimon. "We use coconut flakes in most vegetables and meat dishes. Coconut milk is used in gravies, and even if coconut is not obvious, it is usually present as oil."Indeed, the green vegetables and mushroom fries and covered in coconut flakes, which gives them a mild, creamy flavour. Coconut milk goes well with the non -vegetarian dishes like chicken and fish, which melt in the mouth. They can be mixed with plain rice, or Kerala's special coriander rice which has an inviting green colour.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110811114/636a29a99c7e80680e0458ddjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="3000" height="4000">Kerala itself has a variety of cuisine, but there are three distinct types: Malabar, Travancore, and Kochi. Chef Rejimonis cooking up an amalgam of all three types at the festival, and other, newer dishes have also been created."Regional cuisines use typical spices which may not be palatable to everyone," says Chef Rejimon. "So we have experimented with new spices and flavours."Kerala is known as a capital of spices, with pepper, cardamom, cloves, vanilla, etc grown in abundance.  Kerala reflects this abundance, and every dish is flavourful and rich. The hotness and spiciness have been toned down for the festival so as to appeal to all palates, which lets the deep and rich flavours of the spices shine through.

God’s own cuisine

Architecture can be a powerful agent of change, shaping not just spaces but the way people live, connect, and experience the world.&nbsp; For Nepal, which is <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/natures-fragile-gift-to-nepal">gifted by nature</a> and rich in <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/ambassador-fund-cultural-preservation-nepal,2092">cultural heritage</a>, &nbsp;reviving rural architecture with modern amenities could hold the key to more <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/what-sustainable-tourism-means-in-practice">sustainable tourism </a>that benefits local people more. “<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/bayalpata-hospital-in-nepal-wins-global-design-award">Design and architecture</a> are amazing tools to create a unique experience for visitors,” says Spanish architect Tomeu Esteva of Esteva i Esteva Architecture Studio. “Difficult destinations have beautiful hotels with design and comfort.” Esteva was in Kathmandu with his colleagues at an event organised by the Spanish Honorary Consulate at Dwarika’s Hotel last week to showcase buildings which Nepali architects can adapt with local material and design inputs.&nbsp; Rural architecture holds a unique significance: it is more than a shelter and must reflect <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/inking-an-idenity">local identity, culture</a> and <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/saving-humla-from-heritage-loss">heritage</a>. An area’s natural and cultural harmony can be upset by <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/protecting-protected-areas-from-infrastructure?fbclid=IwAR1wK0MDFlFST_2EYb3f54LS4-fPt6rYfLG1DJ1JaQsU3w8-ezyXIxGOqzk">poorly planned development</a>, speakers at the event said, but the environment can be improved and revitalised by well-integrated structures.&nbsp; Another Spanish architect, Belen Moneo, has designed hotels at elevations of 3,700m in her home country Spain that supply natural spring water spas. “<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/lost-in-reconstruction">Creativity in construction</a> must be encouraged. Rural architecture always shows possibilities of what we can do better,” Moneo explains, adding that designs must enhance <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/the-healing-power-of-nature">the beauty of nature</a> and give a natural feel at a time when steel, glass and cement dominate <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/rebuilding-kathmandu-after-the-1934-quake">urban design</a>.&nbsp; This is why the <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/weaving-nature-into-craft">use of natural products</a> such as bamboo, local timber, straw and rammed earth are in demand from customers who want a fresh eco-friendly look encouraged in construction of rural architectural structures. The demand for boutique hotels has increased world over, with &nbsp;more and more tourists favouring aesthetics, experience and comfort over price. While creativity is an important part of <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/architecture-for-mountains">construction and architecture</a>, incentives to build and use <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/nation/Building,370">rural construction materials</a> still remain minimal, and Moneo emphasises the significance of design and execution.&nbsp; Esteva helped design the Vana Retreat in Dehradun that kept the natural environment in focus, with the structure giving an elaborate aesthetic experience to visitors. Another example is Hotel Las Mercedes in the Dominican Republic which was designed and constructed by Moneo and the company she co-founded Moneo Brock, respecting and revaluing the traditional architecture of the area. Hotels providing such experience could attract tourists and revenue. The Spanish ambassador to Nepal Juan Antonio March Pujol said, “The role of architecture and architects in developing tourism is crucial, not only in urban areas but rural settings as well.”&nbsp; The concept of rural boutique hotels gained traction in Spain during the 1990s, particularly in regions like Majorca with economic and environmental sustainability as the main focus. In Nepal <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/12-full-opinion/guiding-nepal-s-tourism-industry">the tourism industry</a> directly employs about 1 million people, and makes up about 8% of the country’s GDP. In Nepal, the stone homes of <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/reviving-himalayan-vulture-and-culture">Mustang and Manang</a>, bamboo and mud structures of <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/the-tarai-s-shrinking-forests">the Tarai</a>, and the Kathmandu Valley’s terra cotta tile skylines, graceful temples, and tranquil bahal courtyards are all examples of <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/nepal-s-traditional-seismic-resistant-designs">Nepal’s traditional architecture</a>.&nbsp; Nepali architect Sarosh Pradhan has been working for the past eight years on the Brakka Village project in Manang Valley north of <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/municipalities-want-to-manage-annapurna">the Annapurnas</a>. Other examples of this kind of rural architecture for high-end tourism are the Shinta Mani Hotel in Mustang and Khumbu Lodge below <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/mt-everest-pvt-ltd">Mt Everest</a>. Says Pradhan, “There are places in Nepal that radiate purity and embrace simplicity. Creating projects in such settings require deep reflection and thoughtful planning.”  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250421030444_a07a23f6b60fa89c0f35b9dc1aaf19937da4881e6bfb2e1858f3c27dff91729f.jpg" data-media-id="editor_19" data-image-id="20250421030444_a07a23f6b60fa89c0f35b9dc1aaf19937da4881e6bfb2e1858f3c27dff91729f" data-rendition-name="original" width="4608" height="2184" loading="lazy" alt="A new architecture for Nepal's tourism"> </figure>  Rural architecture is not easy, and sometimes more expensive. Inflation, energy efficiency, <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/those-who-stay">the climate crisis</a>, and <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/cost-of-living-in-a-big-city">increased costs of living</a> pose obstacles to sustainable rural architecture. Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/forgotten-international-starchitects-in-nepal">Forgotten international starchitects in Nepal</a>, Anne Feenstra and Varun S Bapu Esteva says faith and trust between client and architect is necessary for any project to be successful. He adds that architects must practice being humble, the process of designing always involves learning and not imposing their ideas on clients. Nepal is uniquely positioned for the growth of <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/hiking-up-the-benefits-of-tourism">rural tourism</a> because of its stunning countryside as well as its internationally renowned traditions in holistic wellness. Creating infrastructure that is small, thoughtfully planned and that respects both tradition and contemporary hospitality standards is crucial. “Projects in Nepal can be made cost effective by using materials from houses that have been brought down,” says Esteva. “Pilot projects involving <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/local-government-by-the-people-for-the-people-of-the-people">local people </a>and simple designing also helps the process.” <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/vacant-homes-become-homestays-in-nepal">The growth of homestays in Nepal</a> is a step in the right direction, but they are still a bit too rustic for the international traveller who also wants comfort and is willing to pay extra for it. Upgrading the facilities in homestays and ensuring that the <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/an-archive-of-nepali-heritage">architectural heritage</a> of the locality is preserved using locally sourced building material could allow owners to charge more. Says Sangita Shrestha of Dwarika’s Hotel, “Our effort is to build upon rural architecture by empowering local communities and using what is available locally. We can fine tune and encourage indigenous design and training.” The vision goes beyond just boosting the economy, it is about building a future where tourism helps villages grow in a healthy and lasting way. Instead of using up resources, it gives back to the land and the people. It supports local communities by<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/staying-in-nepal-to-create-jobs"> creating jobs</a>, improving infrastructure, and protecting natural beauty. When done right, tourism can be a tool for <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/editorial/progress-and-or-preservation">preserving culture and nature</a>, not harming them. Architects must therefore see their work as more than just designing buildings, they also need to care deeply about people and places, especially in rural areas that can benefit the most.&nbsp; With global interest in sustainable and off-the-beaten-path travel increasing, Nepal stands at the cusp of a <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/missing-out-on-nepal-s-tourism-potential">tourism transformation</a> that values community-driven, eco-conscious hospitality. A mix of modern ideas and traditional knowledge could transform rural tourism in Nepal. Says Shrestha, “Young architects should spend time with <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/latest/the-unsung-heroes-of-conservation">local and indigenous communities</a>, listen to their stories, and learn from their <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/life-and-livelihood-in-remote-nepal">ways of living</a>. These communities have deep knowledge about the land, materials, and climate. If this wisdom is used in new designs, it can help create tourism spaces that truly benefit everyone.” &nbsp;

A new architecture for Nepal's tourism

Extract from an addendum to Nepal's Two Wars, Chapter 2 in the updated edition of Essays on Nepal: Past and Present by Sam Cowan, a retired British Army general with a long association with the Gurkhas. The book was first published in 2018, and republished earlier this month by FinePrint exclusively on Amazon. The addendum details a one-to-one conversation the author had in the <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=8884">Royal Palace </a>with the <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=8371">King Gyanendra</a> in November 2002 just after he had taken his initial steps on the road that ultimately led to <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=14681">the abolition of the monarchy</a> in Nepal in 2008. In the early evening of September 16, 2002, in my role as Colonel Commandant of the Brigade of Gurkhas, I had my second and last official audience with King Gyanendra to give him an update on the Brigade’s activities over the previous 12 months. I had some 6 or 7 such audiences with <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/preserving-king-birendra-s-family-home">King Birendra</a>.&nbsp; These were official affairs with the British ambassador of the day present, along with key <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=12233">palace officials</a> and a representative from Nepal's Foreign Ministry. The two monarchs were very different in character and temperament, but both treated me with the utmost civility and made the audiences as relaxed and easy for me as possible.&nbsp; It is, however, worth recording that when the official business had been covered, King Birendra, with a twinkle in his eye, often ended by asking, “Now General, what’s the gossip in London?” The second audience with <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=8026">King Gyanendra </a>was my last official act in uniform. We came back to Kathmandu in the first week of November (after treks) to stay for a few nights with our Defence Attaché before heading back to the UK. Waiting for me was a message from the Palace saying that King Gyanendra would like to meet me informally: <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=6933">no uniform</a> and no ambassador.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250421080420_f9046f9882d4481781d14f2b64f18c7fbbea62562e1d74e3465de6d01fb43750.jpg" data-media-id="editor_7" data-image-id="20250421080420_f9046f9882d4481781d14f2b64f18c7fbbea62562e1d74e3465de6d01fb43750" data-rendition-name="original" width="1750" height="2406" loading="lazy" alt="Gyanendra crowned page 1"> <figcaption>Nepali Times Special Edition of 6-14 June 2001 with enthronement of Gyanendra. </figcaption> </figure>   <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250421080424_21333d6ae21828eb47fe3f849438d215fe2804460d47bb2896ef4aee4e895ad2.jpg" data-media-id="editor_8" data-image-id="20250421080424_21333d6ae21828eb47fe3f849438d215fe2804460d47bb2896ef4aee4e895ad2" data-rendition-name="original" width="1500" height="1857" loading="lazy" alt="Royal massacre"> <figcaption>Nepali Times 22-29 June 2001 covering the royal massacre after which Gyanendra became king. </figcaption> </figure>  Although I had no idea what the purpose of the meeting might be, events in Kathmandu since I last saw the king put me on edge. On October 4, 2002, Gyanendra had dismissed Prime Minister Sher Bahadur Deuba, allegedly for failing to hold <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/what-goes-on-in-nepal-s-elections">elections</a>. He had put in place a new prime minister and a cabinet personally selected by him. When I heard the news on my travels, the people I met were generally supportive of the king’s actions. There was a general view that something had to be done, the country was going nowhere, and the king deserved his chance, not least to solve<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/latest/14-years-after-conflict-no-closure-in-nepal"> the Maoist </a>problem. Back in Kathmandu, views were not so sanguine. The chosen prime minister, Lokendra Bahadur Chand, was a relic from <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/mob-movement-and-mayhem">the Panchayat period</a> whose party had failed to win a single seat in the last elections held in 1999. Some of the chosen cabinet ministers had, to put it mildly, dubious reputations, and others had no record of proven competence in any field. There was a fear that the king’s real motive in dismissing <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/editorial/deubas-denouement">Deuba</a> was to start to reverse the democratic gains made since 1990. I informed <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/nepal-britain-mark-centenary-of-1923-treaty">the British ambassador</a> about the invitation. He was strongly against accepting it, which was probably the clinching reason for my decision to do the polite thing and accept it. On the evening of November 7, 2002, I presented myself at the royal palace, alone and in civilian attire.&nbsp; As in the past, the Military Secretary, Major General Vivek Shah, met and escorted me into the presence of the monarch. This time, however, he was politely asked to leave the room and shut the door behind him. King Gyanendra greeted me warmly and invited me to sit down.&nbsp; Read also:<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/the-ghost-of-monarchy-returns-to-haunt-nepal"> The ghost of monarchy returns to haunt Nepal</a>, Shristi Karki  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250421080424_e382af945d0ad2a04ae41fabe5393f793dd10f54cb1220f111c7c9e7423eb558.jpg" data-media-id="editor_15" data-image-id="20250421080424_e382af945d0ad2a04ae41fabe5393f793dd10f54cb1220f111c7c9e7423eb558" data-rendition-name="original" width="1000" height="993" loading="lazy" alt="Gyanendra coup"> <figcaption>Nepali Times 4-10 February 2005 after king Gyanendra's coup imposed media censorship. anendra became king. </figcaption> </figure>  I had wondered, and to be truthful, had worried, not just about the purpose of the meeting, but about how the conversation might start and develop. I reduced my resolve to two points: be polite but speak candidly. The latter resolve was quickly put to the test with the king’s opening words: “Sam, [in previous meetings it had been ‘General’, you walk the highways and byways of this land more than most, tell me what the common man is thinking?” &nbsp;“Your Majesty, I have no idea what they are thinking, but they are waiting.” “Waiting?” “Yes, Your Majesty, they are waiting to see whether what you did some weeks ago in appointing your own prime minister and cabinet ministers is going to make any difference to their lives or whether it is just going to be more Kathmandu hot air.” “Everything is going to be difficult and is going to take time, a lot of time.” “Your Majesty, time is the one thing you don’t have. You must act quickly and decisively to take advantage of the opportunity you have created. Everyone knows that you have appointed these new ministers. Why don’t you get them in here one by one and tell them that they have three months to deliver a programme in their area of responsibility that is going to make a difference to people’s lives? Most will fail to do so. Sack them! It will be a powerful signal of your strong intent to deliver real change.” I can express the opening of our conversation in this way because just about every word is still etched in my mind. The king’s response to my last quoted words was to challenge me to give an example of something that could be delivered quickly. I can give a verbatim record of what I said in response to this unexpected challenge: “Health posts, Your Majesty, there is no shortage of them throughout the country as building them has been one of the sources of local corruption, but very few have any medicine to issue at present or have skilled people to assess and meet medical needs. Your Majesty, children are dying for lack of a few pills. Given the right priority, over a period, say of six months, every health post could be fully stocked with medicine and manned with trained people. This is something I could help to lead for you as I know it would have strong international backing. At last, people would know that you mean business.” As I warmed to the theme, I could see no sign of the king having any enthusiasm for the idea, and I quickly disengaged as it dawned on me, as it had clearly dawned on the king, that the reason for the deficiencies in health posts was to prevent any Maoist combatant from gaining access to any <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/tech-away/nepal-s-health-tech-industry-is-here-to-stay">medical support</a>, and if this meant people suffering, so be it. The subject of the Maoist insurgency inevitably came up, and I took the opportunity to elaborate on what is written in the final four paragraphs of the article above. I advised King Gyanendra that, self-evidently, since there were three parties in the conflict—him, the Maoists, and the political parties—it was imperative that he form an alliance with one of them, preferably the political parties; otherwise, he would find himself isolated, as the other two parties would inevitably, at some stage, form their own alliance. However, it quickly became apparent that the king’s mind was on a totally different track. On the Maoists, he told me that he had channels open to them, but he was scathing about the political party leaders. He made it clear that they would be waiting for a very long time before he gave any power back to them, and that is a polite way of expressing the actual words he used, but “crawling through the door” is a phrase which has stuck in my mind.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250421080424_5403455ff6168f0d202a96cb53edea69136d74d59b989cfcc7cc4a1d57672cb5.jpg" data-media-id="editor_17" data-image-id="20250421080424_5403455ff6168f0d202a96cb53edea69136d74d59b989cfcc7cc4a1d57672cb5" data-rendition-name="original" width="2000" height="1317" loading="lazy" alt="fall of monarchy"> <figcaption>Nepali Times 28 April-3 May 2005 with cover image by Ajay Joshi of jubilant protesters after street demonstrations sidelined king Gyanendra, paving the way for a ceasfire and restoration of democracy. </figcaption> </figure>  As the conversation developed, it became ever clearer that King Gyanendra had decided to go in alone, relying on the misleading assurances he was constantly receiving from <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=14954">the army</a>, and no doubt his close advisers, that the Maoists could and would be quickly defeated militarily, and taken out of the equation. This would obviate the need for him to do any deal with the political parties.&nbsp; Thus, the way would be clear for him to establish a version of his father’s Panchayat system, under a constitution that would be granted to the people by him, their sovereign, as his father and brother had done in 1962 and 1990. As in those constitutions, ultimate power would have remained in the sovereign’s hands. This proposed direction of travel was very clear from what the king said to me. In sum, King Gyanendra was motivated by a desire to emulate his immediate predecessors by granting his people a constitution that would restore his father’s Panchayat system in a modern form and give him a central role in decision-making. What was particularly dispiriting was that beyond this single objective he had no plan worthy of the name, nor demonstrably did he have the people with the skills to implement an appropriate plan even if one had existed. Crucially and depressingly, there was little or no indication from the king that he realised that such a course of action could put Nepal’s monarchy into serious jeopardy, as indeed proved to be the case. <h2>King Twice</h2>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250420110436_315d519fe3d68d2406ebe1480fed54720fbf21b8907a4da5cde751fdc623d445.jpg" data-media-id="editor_19" data-image-id="20250420110436_315d519fe3d68d2406ebe1480fed54720fbf21b8907a4da5cde751fdc623d445" data-rendition-name="original" width="1302" height="632" loading="lazy" alt="“Tell me what the common man is thinking!”"> </figure>  <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=8371">Gyanendra Bir Bikram Shah has been king twice</a>. In 1950 he was enthroned briefly as a child king (left, above) by the Rana Prime Minister Mohan Shumsher when his grandfather, King Tribhuvan, fled to exile in India. In 2001 he was crowned king again after the massacre in the royal palace in which his brother King Birendra and nine other members of his family were killed by Crown Prince Dipendra.&nbsp; During his second reign, Gyanendra gradually asserted power by sacking Prime Minister Sher Bahadur Deuba in 2002, and then taking full control after the 1 February 2005 coup. He was sidelined after the ceasefire in April 2006, and became a commoner after the Constituent Assembly finally <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/from-nepali-press/Ftnp-abolishing,624">abolished the monarchy in 2008</a>. In the past year, Gyanendra has tried to exploit public dissatisfaction with the political parties to restore the monarchy.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250421080432_26ef4a4b0e3cee9fdc6794446702efe16550d293904b4f6dd46fe35d4d10c788.jpg" data-media-id="editor_22" data-image-id="20250421080432_26ef4a4b0e3cee9fdc6794446702efe16550d293904b4f6dd46fe35d4d10c788" data-rendition-name="original" width="1136" height="702" loading="lazy" alt="Essays on Nepal by Sam Cowen"> </figure>

“Tell me what the common man is thinking!”

“It's Kathmandu.” Just as the family was sitting down for one of its extended lunches, that jubilant cry was from François Driard’s grandfather announcing the next posting for his diplomat parents.&nbsp; Driard (pictured) was 18 in the summer of 1996,<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/suburban-tales/chasing-a-nomad"> a bit of a hippie</a> already, and his life was about to change forever with the magical word “<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/time-capsule-of-kathmandu">Kathmandu</a>”. “I was awed with that information from my grandfather, nothing else mattered … In France <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/tales-of-courage-and-suffering-cx95f89e">in the 1990s</a>, Kathmandu had a mythical aura,” Driard recalls. He came to Kathmandu for Christmas that year to visit his stepfather, the French Ambassador Michel Lummaux. It was to be the first of many visits during school holidays, before he decided to permanently settle down in Nepal. “Kathmandu, and Nepal, were very different then, it was magical, I liked the nature, the people, civilisation, temples, trees,” says Driard, who explored the country sitting on the top of buses. “Visitors talk about the crazy <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/cost-of-living-in-a-big-city">urbanisation</a>, traffic jams today, and all that is true. But Kathmandu has not <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/loss-of-soul-and-soil">lost its soul</a>.” After his stepfather’s tenure in Nepal ended, Driard worked as a business reporter for international publications but decided he did not want to be anyone’s employee anymore. In 2007 he landed in Kathmandu with €20,000 in savings to invest.&nbsp; He knew a few crucial things about himself: he liked food and nature, which is very much tied up with his upbringing--full of lively conversations during lunch and dinner at the family table between <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/nepals-yak-cheese-is-on-world-map">abundant cheese, wine and cigars</a>. So he decided it would be cheese, and registered Himalayan French Cheese and went to the French Alps for a month to learn how to make Tomme de Savoie. “<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/the-story-of-langtang-cheese">Cheese making is such an ancient craft </a>and so I thought I won’t need much money or studying which I hated and indeed, if you have a tamako bhado and fire you are set,” explains Driard. But Nepal’s temperature and humidity were not ideal, even at higher altitudes. The first customers for his cheese were the Hyatt Regency and Nina and Hager. But he needed to create a market for cheese in a country which only knew hard churpi in the north and soft paneer in the south. He started selling his cheeses at the Summit Hotel weekend market, expanding to his own 1905 Farmer’s Market which later moved to Le Sherpa in Maharajganj, where it is now, and also a market at Labim Mall in Pulchok. He had cow dairies in Nuwakot and Dhulikhel, and finally a yak cheese unit at 3,379m in Ramechhap. It was the yak blue cheese from here that went on to win a Gold Medal in France, putting Nepal’s French cheese on the world map. “People come and try our cheese at the market, they ask questions. There is a lot of education to be done about cheese,” adds Driard, who also has three cheese shops in the Valley. Driard now makes 25 types of cheese. The products are being noticed and every year he has French students coming to Nepal to learn the art of yak cheese making. “In France, one family or company makes one kind of cheese for generations. In that I’m very unique as a cheese artisan,” he says. “The students come in to learn but I tell them to also teach us something too, add another cheese to my collection.” Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/langtang-after-10-years">Langtang after 10 years</a>, Sonia Awale Being a foodie, Driard is now also dabbling in meat with his own charcuterie at Meatini with bacon, ham, sausage and pâtés. All of this is now served at his Emilio’s Pizza, a leafy hideaway in Lazimpat. His South Side in Moksh is probably the smallest wine bar in the world. “I call the process sublime,” says Driard of his ventures, which have grown organically. “You need the same temperature and humidity of 12°C and 80% for cheese, meat and wine.” Emilio’s speciality is the eight-cheese pizza (which has eight types of cheeses), and a pizza with bhutan topping (not the country but fried intestines and organs Nepali-style). He has opened a small branch at Courtyard in Pokhara.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250426070456_bacae302c040dc18eeecdeafda72ddf06a6d2cec138ea9be7e45fe94cdf8b5b3.jpg" data-media-id="editor_8" data-image-id="20250426070456_bacae302c040dc18eeecdeafda72ddf06a6d2cec138ea9be7e45fe94cdf8b5b3" data-rendition-name="original" width="1500" height="1125" loading="lazy" alt="8 cheese pizza"> <figcaption>Eight-cheese pizza</figcaption> </figure>  With two artisanal cheese units, two farmers’ markets, a <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/the-meat-of-the-story">meat processing unit</a>, a bakery, and wine bar he now envisions a vineyard so he can add Nepali wine to his repertoire. Another future plan is to start up an agri-tourism business where customers can drink, eat and work in peace. In the past 20 years in Nepal, Driard has not always succeeded in his ventures but this hasn’t curbed his enthusiasm. He is learning as he goes, and like an old wine, Nepal is growing on him. Its slowness suits his French art de vivre with eating slowly outdoors, having conversation, importing less.&nbsp; “I have proven that with even a little money you can do a lot of things in Nepal,” adds Driard. “In the West, they easily invest half a million euros on a cheese factory, I invested 10 times less.”&nbsp;

Fromage, vin et charcuterie Népalais

Bhuthan भुठान starts with Bishnu Bahadur KC played by <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/dhuwa-smoke-telefilm,2671">Hari Bansha Acharya</a> on a call, requesting to speak to the visa officer. By this point, he had <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/nepal-should-now-allow-visa-on-arrival">applied for a visa </a>to Bhutan 10 times, but was denied each time. KC was a <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/nepal-s-women-excel-in-sports-in-2024-z9ramyct">national football player </a>in Bhutan in 1988 before he and other Nepali-speaking Lhotsampa people were forced out of the country in the 1990s as part of the Druk regime’s ‘One Nation One People’ campaign. Over 100,000 Bhutanese Nepalis were forced out, driven across India and dumped in Nepal where they lived in seven<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/elderly-left-in-bhutan-refugee-camp"> refugee camps</a> supervised by the United Nations and other charities until they were resettled in the United States, Australia, New Zealand and some European countries starting in 2007. In the fictional movie with the satirical English title The World’s Happiest Man, KC has resettled in the state of Ohio in the US but wishes to visit his home country once before he dies. Between flashbacks, we learn KC has died without having fulfilled his wish. &nbsp; The drama then focuses on KC’s two families from two marriages as they debate whether to cremate him as per <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/from-nepali-press/muslim-hindu,2996">Hindu rites </a>or give him a Christian burial. A mediator played by Hollywood actor Bruce Dern urges them to take a firm decision before it is too long.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250430140420_b398a08091b866da2b0b8f6c1e6e26781609749aba896bfd2c68a10a519295c3.jpg" data-media-id="editor_5" data-image-id="20250430140420_b398a08091b866da2b0b8f6c1e6e26781609749aba896bfd2c68a10a519295c3" data-rendition-name="original" width="945" height="945" loading="lazy" alt="Bhutan, the movie"> </figure>  There are drawn out scenes of KC being baptised and when he is confronted by his first wife from Darjeeling played by Anuradha Majumdar, he says he changed his religion in the hope that he will be <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/comment/bhutan-s-refugees-between-hope-and-despair">allowed back in Bhutan</a>.&nbsp; We find out KC has a second wife, a Christian Nepali played by Puja Chand. Dayahang Rai as the younger son doesn’t have much screen time to flex his acting chops. &nbsp; Acharya competently portrays a man that is equal parts haunted by the memories of and longing for his home country. KC’s pain and loss is acute when he is teaching football to Gungun but between mid-scene, he freezes, perhaps lost in memories of being in Bhutan’s national team. &nbsp; In another scene, KC recalls his mother singing a lullaby in Dzongkha. He also has a box filled with medals, photographs and a football which he deflates with a knife in a powerful depiction of his <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/searching-for-a-homeland-away-from-home?fb_comment_id=1506516030025634">complicated emotions about his homeland</a>. KC keeps checking his mailbox in the hopes that his <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=4977">visa application</a> has been accepted. He says in Nepali: “If a tree that has already struck roots in one place is shifted to another, it will not survive.”  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250430140420_4a9c27410326489576c04dedf40016bda3825e8f9663317f54fbfec4cbda6d34.jpg" data-media-id="editor_9" data-image-id="20250430140420_4a9c27410326489576c04dedf40016bda3825e8f9663317f54fbfec4cbda6d34" data-rendition-name="original" width="1422" height="2048" loading="lazy" alt="Bhutan, the movie"> </figure>  Dern’s character says that the <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/comment/nepal-s-transitional-justice-and-the-west-s-recalibration">western world</a> has become “lonely in pursuit of happiness”, another reference to Bhutan’s obsession with its Gross National Happiness index. Scenes shift quickly throughout making the story difficult to follow at times. The use of symbolism is a trite overdone. Nonetheless, भुठान is a nuanced depiction of raw pain and agony of losing one’s homeland. But one cannot help but leave the theatre feeling deflated. KC dies without having visited <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/small-bhutan-dreams-big">Bhutan</a>, but perhaps he does in his afterlife. It is up to the audience to create its own ending to this sad story of exile. भुठान Mad Monkey Films, 2025 Directed by Binod Paudel 102 minutes In cinemas in Nepal

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