<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114131144/637238229c7e80680e0c736cjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2048" height="1364"/><figcaption>The Gurju Paltan getting ready to kick off the Kumari chariot parade. ALL PHOTOS: SUMAN NEPALI</figcaption></figure>Patan has Rato Machindranath, Bhaktapur has Biska, and the Newā people of Kathmandu have Yen yā as their biggest festival.Also known as Indra Jatra, the eight-day centuries old festival is marked by various masked dance prades representing different deities and demons performed in the choks and dabalis of the ancient town.The temples and intersections are lined with oblation of samaya baji and the chariots of Kumari, Bharaiv and Ganesh are paraded around different parts of town on different days.There are many origin stories of the festival, the more common of which is the one where Lord Indra comes to Kathmandu Valley disguised as a human, in search of a parijat flower for his mother Dagini. The locals catch him and parade him in the town center.Read Also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/the-legend-behind-the-myth-of-indra-jatra/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">The legend behind the myth of Indra Jatra</a>, Desmond DoigA part of the festival is an reenactment of this legend with a representative idol of Indra at the city center, pulu kishi, the white elephant going around town searching for his master and Dagini coming down to earth in search of her son.Some version also say that the festival is the worship of nature and ancestors. In Indra Chok, the Aju dya diety, commonly known as Akash Bhairav, the male ancestor of the indigenous Newā people, is brought down from his sanctum and kept in a raised platform for eight days.Lesser known than Kathmandu, Bhaktapur too celebrates Indra Jatra for eight days a part of which involves taking the idol if Goddess Indrayani for rituals and a Dipawali.Here are some of the different dances and aspects of Yen ya captured by Nepali Times photojournalist Suman Nepali.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114131144/637238259c7e80680e0c736djpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2048" height="1406"><figcaption>Living god Ganesh looks out of a window during Indra Jatra festival in Kathmandu.</figcaption></figure><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114131144/637238289c7e80680e0c736ejpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2048" height="1364"><figcaption>Living goddess Kumari during the Indra Jatra Festival</figcaption></figure><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114131144/6372382b9c7e80680e0c736fjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2048" height="1364"><figcaption>People gather at Basantapur Darbar Square to view the chariot procession and masked dances.</figcaption></figure><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114131144/6372382f9c7e80680e0c7370jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2048" height="1428"><figcaption>Devotees pull the chariots of Ganesh, Bhairav and Kumari.</figcaption></figure><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114131144/637238329c7e80680e0c7371jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2048" height="1234"><figcaption>President Bidya Devi Bhandari, Mayor of Kathmandu Balen Shah and Deputy Mayor of Kathmandu Sunita Dangol with other dignitaries in Gaddi Baithak.</figcaption></figure><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114131144/637238359c7e80680e0c7372jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2048" height="1296"><figcaption>Halchok Bhairav dance</figcaption></figure><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114131144/637238389c7e80680e0c7373jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2048" height="1364"><figcaption>Pulu Kisi</figcaption></figure><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114131144/6372383b9c7e80680e0c7374jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2048" height="1372"><figcaption>Living god Bhairav during teh chariot procession.</figcaption></figure><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114131144/6372383e9c7e80680e0c7375jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2048" height="1306"><figcaption>People gather infront of Hatu dya (Swet Bhairav).</figcaption></figure><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114131144/637238419c7e80680e0c7376jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2048" height="1350"><figcaption>Majipa Lakhe</figcaption></figure><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114131144/637238449c7e80680e0c7377jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2048" height="1464"><figcaption>The idol of Akash Bhairav (Aju dya) is put on a raised platform in Indrachok.</figcaption></figure><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114131144/637238479c7e80680e0c7378jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2048" height="1364"><figcaption>Indra's mother Dagini, comes down to earth in search of her son.</figcaption></figure><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114131144/6372384a9c7e80680e0c7379jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2048" height="1364"><figcaption>Dancers perform Di pyakhan (Devi naach).</figcaption></figure>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aqG_okS_wPI&amp;feature=emb_logoRead Also:<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/are-you-ready-for-indra-jatra/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Are you ready for Indra Jatra</a>, Nepali Times<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/suburban-tales/wine-and-women-during-yenya/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Wine and women during Yenya</a>, Pratibha Tuladhar

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Kathmandu marks the Yen yā festival

<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114111148/63721d2c9c7e80680e0bd4d2jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="960" height="640"/><figcaption>All photos: AMIT MACHAMASI</figcaption></figure>Last week on Ram Nawami, Ojaswi Gulu woke up earlier than usual and took a ritual bath. Once done, instead of her everyday clothes, she put on a sacred red attire that she wears on <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=7516#.YluvsC8w3u1" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">special occasions</a> like this.Her uncle Prabin Shrestha then painted a crimson moon with yellow lining on her forehead and adjusted her crown and Vajra, the third eye that distinguishes her from the mere mortals.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114111148/63721d2e9c7e80680e0bd4d3jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="960" height="640"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114111148/63721d319c7e80680e0bd4d4jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="960" height="640"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114111148/63721d339c7e80680e0bd4d5jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="960" height="640">Dressed in her regalia, she made her way to the altar throne on the prayer room on the top floor of her house. Her father then carried her to the Layaku Darbar 15 minutes away, where she participated in a puja for the goddess Taleju Bhawani, of whom she is considered a reincarnation.Eight-year-old Ojashwi is the Kumari, <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/carefree-kumari/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">the living goddess</a> of Panauti, an ancient Newa town 35km east of Kathmandu. She was selected when she was just eight months old while still being breast-fed by her mother. She is now almost at the end of reign as the living goddess.Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/a-goddess-among-people/">A goddess among people</a>, Shristi Karki<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114111148/63721d359c7e80680e0bd4d6jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="960" height="640"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114111148/63721d389c7e80680e0bd4d7jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="960" height="640"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114111148/63721d3a9c7e80680e0bd4d8jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="960" height="640"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114111148/63721d3d9c7e80680e0bd4d9jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="960" height="640">“We already have informed the hyumat, that she would need to undergo the process of Ihi: and Gufa life rituals since she is at the age of mensuration,” explains her mother Rohini Gulu, referring to the administrators of the House of the Kumari.Unlike the royal <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/review/review-of-the-living-goddess-by-isabelle-tree,1252" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kumari of Kathmandu</a> who has to reside in a special house in Basantapur away from her family, the living goddess of Panauti stays with her parents, goes to school like every other child and spends time playing and watching tv.On any other day, her schedule starts with preparing for school, and walking to school with her brother, Manan, and one of their parents.In class, she sits with friends and although a little shy she gets along well with classmates and teachers. Her favourite subject is Maths and English and she is also among the top three students in class.Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/divine-intervention-by-ex-kumaris/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Divine intervention by ex-Kumaris</a>, Lisa Choegyal<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114111148/63721d409c7e80680e0bd4dajpeg.jpg" alt="" width="960" height="640"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114111148/63721d429c7e80680e0bd4dbjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="960" height="640"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114111148/63721d459c7e80680e0bd4dcjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="960" height="640">“Her academics were good till the start of lockdown. With online classes her rankings slipped to second position, otherwise she was the top student in her class,” says Rohini.On returning home after school, Ojashwi does her homework, watches cartoons, cycles and plays with her brother. Although her daily life is like any other child her age, there are some restrictions.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114111148/63721d479c7e80680e0bd4ddjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="960" height="640">As a living goddess, for example, she is not allowed to wear black clothes. She also cannot share her plate with others, and her food cannot be touched by women who are menstruating. Both at home and at school, special care is taken so that she does not fall and injure herself.“We try to make sure that she does not share her plate with others and eats the food sent from home. Seat arrangements are also made as per her convenience and hygiene is maintained because it is believed she will fall sick if anything goes wrong,” says Bishnu Prasad Dahal, principal of Arunodaya English Secondary School.At home, she is not required to do any chores and instead focuses on studies and games. Says Rohini: “Although she is a goddess now, education is important for her future, and we try to focus on that as much as possible. It will help her <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/a-lonely-goddess-ex-kumari,3470" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">assimilate</a> once she has to step down as Kumari.”Read more: <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=18515#.XmC0ciEzaUk" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Life after the living goddess</a>, Cai Yun

Divine guardian of a living heritage

20 Reviews in 20 Years

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aXxxTSU5ubgTo Pratima Sherpa, the golf course is home, literally. She was born and raised in a small storage shed on the <a href="https://www.golfadvisor.com/courses/21820-royal-nepal-golf-club" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Royal Nepal Golf Course</a> in Kathmandu.Growing up, Sherpa watched men dressed smartly in polo shirts and white pants swing shiny golf clubs on the vast grassy course below the airport. She wanted to do the same and so her father, a security guard at the course, crafted a makeshift club for her out of wood and Sherpa spent hours practicing her swing. There has been no looking back.Sherpa was just finding her footing in Nepal’s golf scene when the <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/on-course-to-be-champion-golf,3390" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Nepali Times first profiled her</a> four years ago. She went on to win national golf competitions and attract the attention of international media like the Los Angeles Times, Golf Digest, and ESPN.Read also:<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/?p=41633&amp;preview_nonce=1a5fef970e&amp;preview=true" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Trail-running trail blazer</a>, Sanghamitra Subba<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/?p=41606&amp;preview_nonce=6d2bb56d9f&amp;preview=true" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Coming Soon: Ani Choying, the movie</a>,  Alisha SijapatiSherpa moved to California a year and a half ago and her life there is a world apart from the golf shed behind the third hole in Sinamangal, where her parents still live. In her second year at Santa Barbara City College, Sherpa  attends public speaking, business and math classes, practices golf for three hours, goes to the gym for two hours and does homework before bed. On weekends, she frequents a nearby beach with her friends and host family.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109101148/636b77c69c7e80680e064657jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="1323"/><figcaption>Photo: MICHAEL MONTANO</figcaption></figure>Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/golfing-in-nepals-monsoon/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Golfing in Nepal's monsoon</a>“Sometimes I have a tournament and a midterm exam on the same day and those days can be very hectic,” she laughed during a recent phone interview with Nepali Times.When she met him, Sherpa’s idol Tiger Woods advised her to work on her course management. “I still remember him saying ‘Hi Pratima!’ when we first met,” recalls Sherpa. “I don’t think I’ll ever forget that or the fact that he said that my swing was perfect.”<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109101148/636b77c99c7e80680e064658jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="744" height="800"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>During her meeting with Woods, Sherpa was filming for an ESPN documentary, A Mountain to Climb, which chronicled her journey from the 2017 Qualifying School tournament in Kathmandu to her stay in California, where she is hosted by a couple eager to support her golfing career.Tanya and Michael Montano had read Oliver Horowitz’s article about Sherpa in Golf Digest in late 2016 and had soon after travelled to Nepal to visit their daughter Sophia, who was in the country for a semester abroad. While in Kathmandu they decided to reach out to the young golfer.Read also:<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/?p=41677&amp;preview_nonce=28a6e8e67c&amp;preview=true" target="_blank" rel="noopener">A goddess among people</a>, Shristi Karki<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/?p=41700&amp;preview_nonce=6d0139bd58&amp;preview=true" target="_blank" rel="noopener">From kamlari to MP</a>, Alisha SijapatiSherpa stayed with the Montanos in Santa Barbara, California for two months in 2017 and trained there in preparation for the Q School tournament that would take place back in Kathmandu that September. “They are my family,” Sherpa says of her hosts. “They’ve supported me, loved me and cared for me as much as my own parents have.”With the help of her host family, Sherpa became the first Nepali to compete in the The Symetra Tour in 2019, a tournament organised by the Ladies Professional Golf Association (LPGA). After she finishes college in 2022, Sherpa will be eligible again to compete in the Q School tournament and thereby try for professional status in Nepal. No matter what changes in her life, Sherpa has her eyes set on one goal: to be Nepal’s first female professional golfer.Read also: <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=1364#.W1GkTtUzbIU" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Women play too</a>, Deepak Acharya

Pratima Sherpa swings for pro

<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108181148/636a967b9c7e80680e05dc6bjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="1000"/><figcaption>All Photos: SHRILUNA SHRESTHA</figcaption></figure>Nine-year-old Jeebika Bajracharya, the current living goddess of Bhaktapur, enjoyed all the attention she got during Dasain dressed as the Kumari. Clothed in dark red, with vermillion covering her forehead and her eyes accentuated by gajal stretching to her temples, she makes a dramatic statement — especially as she is walking.In contrast to the living goddesses of Kathmandu and Lalitpur, the Kumari in Bhaktapur has much more freedom. In Kathmandu, she is rarely allowed to leave the Kumari Chen sacred house for the living goddess, and when she does, her feet are not supposed to touch the ground.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bP9aVQsKEMgBhaktapur’s Kumari however, casually strolls around the city to meet friends and family. She lives with her parents, goes to school, studies in the fourth grade and plays outdoors with other children in the area, like any other regular girl child.Read Also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/divine-intervention-by-ex-kumaris/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Divine intervention by ex-Kumaris</a>, Lisa ChoegyalOnly during Dasain, when her devotees came to seek her blessings, did she have to sit for hours in the Kumari Chen. Throughout the festival, she stayed with the family of Rukmani and Nhuchhe Ratna Shakya, the hereditary caretakers of the living goddess in Bhaktapur.A city enveloped in tranquillity and traditional cultural values, Bhaktapur embarked on this unique tradition of worshipping the Kumari during Nepal’s Malla dynasty. The practice of picking a Buddhist girl child as an incarnation of Hindu goddess Taleju is still considered an important one in Kathmandu Valley.When asked if the freedom given to the Kumari has diminished the value of the living goddess in Bhaktapur, Nhuchhe says,<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108181148/636a967f9c7e80680e05dc6cjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="1000">“We never had restrictions like that for the Kumari in Bhaktapur in the first place. We cannot preserve our tradition and the goddess’ strength by confining her within a house or keeping her away from her parents.”Read Also: <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/nation/living-goddess-saves-lives-nepal-earthquake,2208" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Thanking the Living Goddess for life</a>, Min Ratna Bajracharya“Even on usual days, when she is not staying with us or is walking to school and playing outside with other kids of her age, our respect towards her is consistent. By giving her access to school and education, we are preparing her so that she will not find it difficult to return to normal life after the end of her tenure as a Kumari,” he adds.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108181148/636a96829c7e80680e05dc6djpeg.jpg" alt="" width="395" height="500">Pushpa Ratna Shakya, a professor at the Central Department of Buddhist Studies in Tribhuvan University, lives next door to the Kumari Chen in Bhaktapur. He explains some other ways that the city’s worshipping of the living goddess differs.Read Also: <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/the-boy-gods-of-kathmandu,4158" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The boy gods of Kathmandu</a>, Sahina Shrestha“The everyday worship of Kumari is done at her home by her parents. The important rituals during Dasain were performed by priests in the Taleju Temple in the Mul Chok in Darbar Square, which is home to Goddess Taleju.”“On Navami (the ninth day of Dasain) we worshipped our Kumari with 9 to 15 other girls who are also worshipped as temporary Kumaris during the length of the festival.We worship them as the nine manifestations of Goddess Durga, as the Navadurga Gana,” Shakya says.“It is our ritual and tradition that makes the Kumari of Bhaktapur special. I do not think these rituals are performed elsewhere to the living goddesses in Kathmandu or Lalitpur,” he adds. “Our traditional rituals are more sophisticated, but left in the shadows.”

Carefree Kumari

<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141116/636a57119c7e80680e0547bejpeg.jpg" alt="" width="4096" height="2730"/>This week Kathmandu celebrates Indra Jatra — the chariot festival presided over by none other than the Living Goddess Kumari.Locally known as Yenyā, the festival dedicated to the god of rain Indra, is marked with much enthusiasm and devotion by Hindus and Buddhists alike in Kathmandu Valley, and is celebrated for eight days with singing, dancing and feasting.Ritual dances — featuring masked demons, gods and goddesses are performed in various parts of the Valley. Kathmandu’s famous Lakhey dancers are also part of the chariot procession.Monika Deupala on Monday was in Basantapur to capture glimpses of the first day of the annual festival.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141116/636a57159c7e80680e0547bfjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2106" height="1404"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141116/636a57189c7e80680e0547c0jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2106" height="1404"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141116/636a571b9c7e80680e0547c1jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2106" height="1404"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141116/636a571e9c7e80680e0547c2jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2106" height="1404"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141116/636a57219c7e80680e0547c3jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2106" height="1404"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141116/636a57249c7e80680e0547c4jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2106" height="1404">A Nepali Times video of last year's Indra Jatrahttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqjg2X00SCQRead also: <a style="background-color: #ffffff; font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 0.01em;" href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/prepping-for-indra-jatra/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Prepping for Indra Jatra</a><a style="background-color: #ffffff; font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 0.01em;" href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=10881#.XXdTLC4zaUk" target="_blank" rel="noopener">When Indra was caught stealing</a>, Desmond Doig

Are you ready for Indra Jatra?

<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141116/636a56c49c7e80680e0547a3jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1400" height="933"/><figcaption>Photo: BIKRAM RAI</figcaption></figure>The late monsoon calendar in Kathmandu Valley is filled with festivals: there was <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/my-sweet-lord/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Krishna’s birthday</a> last week, then <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/women-celebrate-tij/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Rishi Panchami and Tij</a> this week. But none is more important than the week-long Indra Jatra — the chariot festival presided over by none other than the Living Goddess Kumari.Indra Jatra, which falls on Friday the 13th this year, is traditionally when Nepal’s rulers congregate at Hanuman Dhoka to be blessed by the Kumari as she is pulled past on her chariot.This is the annual festival dedicated to Indra, the god of rain. But it also honours Taleju Bhawani, the powerful goddess and protector of Kathmandu, who will manifest herself in the Kumari to empower the government and citizens of Nepal with divine powers.Interestingly, Taleju is supposed to be the family deity of Ravana, the demon king of mythic Lanka, and the Taleju of Kathmandu is said to have been brought from India in ancient times.Read also: <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=10881#.XXDXnC4zbIU" target="_blank" rel="noopener">When Indra was caught stealing</a>, Desmon Doig<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/parodying-patriarchy-at-tij/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Parodying patriarchy at Tij</a>, Sewa Bhattaraihttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqjg2X00SCQPrithvi Narayan Shah in 1770 entered Kathmandu on the day of Indra Jatra, and is said to have won over the local population by kneeling at the feet of the Kumari.The Kumari House courtyard bears the most exotic of all wood carvings in the area, and was built in 1757 during the reign of king Jaya Prakash Malla, the last Malla king, who was deposed by the invading army of Prithvi Narayan.History books tell us that Jaya Prakash Malla was pulling the Kumari chariot himself, and enjoying every bit of it. But by the time the chariot reached the Lagan neighbourhood, Gorkha forces had captured his palace at Hanuman Dhoka. He then fled across the swollen Bagmati river to seek refuge in the neighbouring kingdom of Patan.Indra Jatra is marked with much enthusiasm and devotion by both Hindus and Buddhists in the Kathmandu Valley, and celebrated for eight days by singing, dancing, feasting and rejoicing.People throng excitedly to see the chariot and to watch the ritual dances — featuring masked demons, gods and goddesses. Kathmandu’s famous Lakhey dancers are also part of the chariot procession.Read also:<a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=5869#.XXDXmS4zbIU" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Let the jatra begin</a><a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/the-boy-gods-of-kathmandu,4158" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Boy gods of Kathmandu</a>, Sahina Shrestha<h2 style="letter-spacing: 0.15px;" data-elementor-setting-key="title" data-pen-placeholder="Type Here...">Indra Jatra re-enacted at Dwarika’s</h2><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141116/636a56c89c7e80680e0547a4jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="422">Nepal’s Dwarika’s Hotel has won many international awards for its preservation of Kathmandu’s Newa architecture. But it is also involved in preserving the Valley’s intangible heritage: its festivals.As in 2018, the Hotel will mark Indra Jatra this year. On Friday 13 September, Dwarika’s will feature a re-enactment of the real-life procession in the city, with a stand-in Goddess Kumari on hand throughout the celebration.Guests can witness the Living Goddess regally seated in the hotel’s resplendent courtyard with artefacts and carvings (some of them 800 years old) observing the series of performances, replicated exactly from the original Indra Jatra celebration in Kathmandu Darbar Square earlier that day.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221108141116/636a56cb9c7e80680e0547a5jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="428">Another major attraction of the evening will be a display of the lavish assortment of the famous Samay Baji and other food of the Indra Jatra feast. Even the Kumari chariot festival, with Bhairav and Ganesh, as well as the Lakhe dance, Kumari dance, Bajrayogini and Bhairab-Kali dances, will be performed.Guests can also savour a special Indra Jatra buffet with exotic items of Newari cuisine, washed down with the traditional aila spirit, while they watch the Dhimey dance and other classical masked dances.Dwarika’s Hotel6:30-9pm, Friday 13 Septembersales@dwarikas.com+977 1 4479488,  4470770.Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.atavist.com/cultural-evolution" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Cultural evolution</a>, Kunda Dixit

Prepping  for Indra Jatra

<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110813114/636a45fe9c7e80680e04d3b1jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2304" height="3456"/><figcaption>Patan Kumari Samita Bajracharya in her throne in Kumari Ghar on April 2011. Photo: NARENDRA SHRESTHA</figcaption></figure>During my first days in Kathmandu, I ventured into the medieval courtyard to catch a glimpse of the child peeking through the richly carved windows of the Kumari Ghar’s upper storey. I could only imagine the daily routine of the diminutive living goddess in that mysterious gloom, tended with sacred concern and seldom permitted to emerge into daylight, paraded at festivals through the palace squares and venerated in her gilded palanquin.Tripping on the uneven flagstones and shielding my eyes from the piercing blue sky, I gazed upward, trying to discern how she spent her days and what thoughts could be passing through her childish mind. Once regaled by her pujari attendants, her face painted and her small body swathed in gold brocade, the shy restless child looking down at curious tourists is transformed into a stately goddess, her altered presence commanding respect and reverence from all Hindus, including the nation’s royalty and rulers.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110813114/636a46019c7e80680e04d3b2jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="480" height="319">This searing image of the royal Kumari emerging from dark shadows in her carefully guarded life continues to be a tourism staple, encapsulating the clash of culture between ancient Newar Tantric custom and the distractions of modern life. Honoured with bloody animal sacrifices as the incarnation of Taleju, the young girls are selected from the Shakya clan for a strange childhood separated from family until puberty returns them home.Like so many who lacked any real knowledge of the <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=887#.XQVa8y2ZMWo">Kumari</a>, my information was limited to clichés trotted out by uninformed guides -- the girls are shunned once they return to ordinary life, none ever marry, lack of education paralyses their prospects – none of it true. In early days pre-pubescent children were worshipped as living goddesses in multiple Valley towns. There were even whispers that in remote corners, propitious offerings to the demanding deity Durga extended beyond buffalos, goats and chickens to requiring human sacrifice.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110813114/636a46039c7e80680e04d3b3jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="360" height="480"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110813114/636a46049c7e80680e04d3b4jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="360" height="480">It was only in 2014 that a new book by <a href="https://jaipurliteraturefestival.org/the-living-goddess-isabella-tree-introduced-by-vidya-dehejia/">Isabella Tree</a> shone a startling light on the hidden practices that had successfully been obfuscated and concealed for generations. For uninitiated readers such as myself, it was a revelation. Unimaginatively titled <a href="https://www.google.com/url?client=internal-uds-cse&amp;cx=011870630917993763279:opm7uqsat-4&amp;q=https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/review/review-of-the-living-goddess-by-isabelle-tree,1252&amp;sa=U&amp;ved=2ahUKEwjPleiMr-ziAhURneAKHbf_CIcQFjAAegQIABAB&amp;usg=">The Living Goddess</a>, it reads like a historical thriller, exploring the tangled politics of the Shakyas and explaining the origins of their Tantric traditions. Over many visits from Britain, Issy digs deep to expose the complexities of Newar heritage, religious beliefs and Kumari worship. For me, Valley customs would never seem the same ever again.First visiting Freak Street on a university holiday with her childhood sweetheart and future husband Charlie, Issy became obsessed with uncovering the <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=18515#.XQVbKi2ZMWp">details of Kumari lives</a>. It took her 13 years to win the trust of their custodians and caretakers, and to coax them to reveal their judiciously kept secrets. The timing was right, the social upheavals caused by the royal massacre, new regimes and millennial change were challenging the relevance of hidden Newar religious practices judiciously kept secret over many centuries. With perfect pitch she was there with her notebook at the right moment to receive their confidences, interview the protagonists, and ‘journey into the heart of Kathmandu’.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110813114/636a46069c7e80680e04d3b5jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="480" height="310"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>Isabella Tree casts a slender figure, a pixie haircut and an air of applied energy. Her Nepal book is one of several written in her modest writing shed, tucked away in the walled garden of her English home. The most recent is an acclaimed account of how she and Charlie ‘re-wilded’ their Sussex farm, bringing back a profusion of wild flowers, insects and animals to save the environment.I arrived late for supper one autumn evening, and Issy was putting the final touches to a wild mushroom risotto on the kitchen Aga whilst Charlie perused a plant catalogue and Highland cattle grazed peacefully beneath the lime trees in the parkland beyond the gothic windows. ‘Can you help me arrange the launch for The Living Goddess book – I have family and friends coming from all over, as well as many former Kumaris, their relatives, guardians and priests whose support was so essential for my study insights. I want something relaxed and informal in which we can all feel comfortable together.’  April is a gentle month and I suggested we hold it outside in the Garden of Dreams.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110813114/636a46079c7e80680e04d3b6jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="480" height="319"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>The spring afternoon was clear as guests gathered at Kaiser Mahal for the book launch event. The fountains flowed, the bamboos rustled, and waiters hurried across the grass lawns marshalling their plates and glasses. But then, with no apparent warning, the sky blackened and leaves swirled in sudden gusts. Books and drinks and guests were rushed under cover.Within minutes we were drenched by the unexpected rainstorm, lightening streaked the sky, and thunder crackled overhead with ominous persistence. The Garden of Dreams is not the place for a large group to get caught in an April deluge. The bar pavilion at the western end was solid with cheerful guests, even though the servers could hardly move with their precarious trays amongst the noisy, damp bodies beneath the mirrored metal ceiling. I was pressed between the large American Ambassador’s grey suit and writer William Dalrymple in flowing Indian dress, hair plastered against his forehead. A self-conscious Hollywood actor was pinned helplessly against a jaunty elderly artist in floral print.When the downpour abated we made our way to the shelter of the Kaiser café. Brahmin clerics greeted their former Shakya and Vajracharya charges – eight ladies who had progressed from a childhood as living deities to become college graduates, professionals, wives and mothers. Despite their divine background they seemed like regular young women to me, dressed for the day, and excited to meet up with Issy and her young family. Although we had forgotten they are unable to eat from communal plates for purity reasons, so there was a scramble to prepare special canapés.The launch went ahead with prayers and speeches drowned by the auspicious storm, and stacks of books soggy around the edges. Issy was pleased and philosophical, smiling beside a wizened Pujari elder leaning heavily on his walking stick. ‘It is rare for so many to be together in one place. The combined power of eight former goddesses is so immense and convincing that of course the elements are influenced. We should not be surprised by the effect of their presence on the weather.’<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110813114/636a46099c7e80680e04d3b7jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="445" height="709">

Lisa Choegyal

Divine intervention by ex-Kumaris

<h2>As the sun sets on 2018, Nepali Times takes you back to the most popular videos of the past year on its YouTube Channel, the ones that readers viewed and discussed the most:</h2>		
		1. A Kiwi takes to GundrukMost Nepalis love gundruk, it is almost our national dish. But it's rare to find a foreigner enjoying its strong aroma. New Zealand journalist and writer Thomas Heaton didn't just make gundruk sandheko from scratch, but also relished eating it. This video was the most widely shared and commented in 2018.<a href="http://bit.ly/a-Kiwi-takes-to-Gundruk-nt" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Read story here</a>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0qar21iDPA		
		2. US-Bangla plane crash A US-Bangla Bombardier Q100 aircraft from Dhaka to Kathmandu crashed at Kathmandu airport on 12 March killing all 67 passengers and crew. Among them were Nepali medical students returning to Nepal after completing their studies. This recording of the conversation between the pilot and Kathmandu air traffic control shows that the Captain was incoherent and disoriented during the flight’s last moments. The clip was shared by over half a million readers, and generated vigorous debate about the nature of the crash.<a href="http://bit.ly/Us-Bangla-plane-crash-analysis-nt" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Read story here</a>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oDAvHQJZK_M&t=17s		
		3. Fire and IceThis video of the Khumbu by Kunda Dixit presented dramatic proof of the impact of global warming on the glaciers below Mt Everest. The film was widely shared among the international scientific community, mountaineers and gained a lot of attention.<a href="http://bit.ly/thin-ice-in-khumbu-nt" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Read story here</a>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RTnxJKo97DI&amp;t=67s		
		4. Bartika RaiYouTube sensation and US-based singer-songwriter Bartika Eam Rai was in Kathmandu for her first Nepal concert tour, and spoke to our reporter Sewa Bhattarai about her new full-length album, her childhood, the therapeutic power of songwriting and her future plans. Her fans were delighted, and flooded the Nepali Times feed with best wishes for the star.<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxM6MEqCDOI" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Read story here</a>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxM6MEqCDOI		
		5. The Boy Gods of Kathmandu We have all heard of Kathmandu's Living Goddesses. But much less visible than the Kumari, are the male gods Ganesh and Bhairab who are also worshipped and join the chariot procession of the Living Goddess during Indra Jatra. Sahina Shrestha followed the Boy Gods of Kathmandu on their daily routines at school and home, and in the festival.<a style="background-color: #ffffff; font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 0.01em;" href="http://bit.ly/The-Boy-Gods-of-Kathmandu-nt" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Read story here</a>  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TIXDttAce0g

kumari