In the small forest of Karyabinayak on the outskirts of Lalitpur, Tejson Kunwar quickly lands the jump and glides through the trail. He is so agile, his mountain bike seems to be an extension of his body. The pine forest is a hub for migratory birds and bird-watchers in the morning. But these days, as the natural morning light hits the forest, the tyres hit the dirt. This newly completed mountain biking trail is the latest addition to the fleet of downhill and endure trails in and around Kathmandu Valley. Kunwar with the help of Trail Builders Nepal, a group of individuals with background in tourism, biking and management, Tessellate Design Studios; an architectural design firm based in Kathmandu,Balkumari Samudayik Ban and Lalitpur Municipality ward 18, worked to establish the Bhanjyang trail which was completed earlier this year. Read also:<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/kathmandu-gets-first-pump-track"> Kathmandu gets first pump track</a>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230331200320_fb77174d50a741f38eee12d95e45ef5d671a0090954ab7cf890778bd7595af74.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="20230331200320_fb77174d50a741f38eee12d95e45ef5d671a0090954ab7cf890778bd7595af74" data-rendition-name="original" width="4359" height="6538" loading="lazy" alt="Wheeling in the woods NT"> <figcaption>Tejson Kunwar is the founder of Radrides and an instructor at The ZeroLevel Nepal.</figcaption> </figure>  “This trail is completely different. It is beginner friendly and is for mountain bikers who want to develop their skills. It is more of a bike park that is near the city," says Nishant Shah, one of the founders of Trail Builders Nepal. The idea for building a sustainable trail in Bhaisepati came about five years ago when Tejson Kunwar with his friend Anup Khatri would go to the forest to practice. They would spend hours making small jumps and navigating the terrain. Since the forest was not actively in use, and given the landscape, Kunwar thought it would be a good place for the future generation of MTB riders to practice. “I wanted to contribute to the development of the sport as well as the community in Nepal," says Kunwar. Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/no-city-for-cyclists">No city for cyclists</a>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230331200320_1e7b622b36bb157805b860a1a8e021c5c914087eff870cd0585240cc91d73e18.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="20230331200320_1e7b622b36bb157805b860a1a8e021c5c914087eff870cd0585240cc91d73e18" data-rendition-name="original" width="6958" height="4639" loading="lazy" alt="Wheeling in the woods NT"> <figcaption>Kunwar makes a jump after the 100m long flow section in the Bhanjyang Trail.</figcaption> </figure>  The Bhanjyang trail is conceptualised as a beginner-oriented park with a trail system. Located in Bhaisepati, its closest landmark is the Manjushree Bridge.&nbsp; The trail system is unique in Nepal, it starts with a ramp that leads to a 100m long flow section: then to tabletops, which is a platform for riders to safely practice small jumps. There is a roller pump that helps riders to gain speed or jump and three switchbacks, or berms, for a 180° turn. From local children with their beginner bicycles to professional mountain bikers, the team believes that it is the perfect spot for enthusiasts to hone mountain biking skills, all in the lap of nature. Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/news/re-cycling-kathmandu-is-not-so-easy">'Re-cycling' Kathmandu is not so easy</a>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230331200320_f477ad3f9501cbe6a49468c03164e40340a422c8922ad3716112012358ebae8a.jpg" data-media-id="editor_5" data-image-id="20230331200320_f477ad3f9501cbe6a49468c03164e40340a422c8922ad3716112012358ebae8a" data-rendition-name="original" width="2100" height="1400" loading="lazy" alt="Wheeling in the woods NT"> <figcaption>Kunwar with the help of the Trail Builders Nepal, Tessellate Design Studios and Radrides designed and built the Bhanjyang Trail.</figcaption> </figure>  Every day after school, Sakshyam Dongol makes his way to the trail. “I use the trail to practice my mountain biking skills, and it is fun to ride as the trail finishes in about 3 minutes," says Dongol, who learned about the trail from social media. Kunwar is happy to see young and old faces make the most of the trail. He himself has been riding for eight years now and is a well-known face in the downhill and enduro races in Nepal. The Kathmandu MTB fest 2016 was his first-ever race, and his latest was the Okhaldhunga Urban Downhill Race 2023, which he participated in with Nischaya Shrestha. The adrenaline-rush of launching off a ramp or going downhill might be too much to take for some, but for the 22-year-old, it is nothing short of thrilling. One thing he feels that is currently missing in the community is mentorship for younger athletes. Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/pedalling-for-life">Pedalling for life</a>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230331200320_d0601ba9abc4e621f8ba0b716f5ecb4bc683c94364edc951215f006aa3034034.jpg" data-media-id="editor_7" data-image-id="20230331200320_d0601ba9abc4e621f8ba0b716f5ecb4bc683c94364edc951215f006aa3034034" data-rendition-name="original" width="5941" height="3961" loading="lazy" alt="Wheeling in the woods NT"> <figcaption>Kunwar spray paints and designs his bike frame before going on a ride the next day. </figcaption> </figure>  ''My friend Nirav Shrestha and I would go on rides and learn from each other. We didn’t have a certain mentor who would train us for professional purposes. There still aren’t," says Kunwar.&nbsp; When he is not riding he works as a freelance photographer and videographer, and is an instructor at The ZeroLevel Nepal, a mountain biking school. He is also the founder of Radrides, an agency working with the local community and businesses to educate people about MTB and establish sustainable trails in Kathmandu. Through Radrides, he is also trying to mentor upcoming athletes and provide them with a platform. With schools focused on mountain biking, a burgeoning community of riders and several trails being built in the outskirts of the valley, Kunwar is hopeful for the future of the sport and his role in it. Says Kunwar, “I want to change, or help to change, the scenario for riders in Nepal by supporting or bringing more exposure to athletes through this platform." Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/netherlands-to-nepal-by-bicycle">Netherlands to Nepal by bicycle</a>, Ashish Dhakal

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Wheeling in the woods

<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022120710124/639057e29c7e80680e0ce178jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="828" height="621"/><figcaption>Umang Shrestha after he completed a loop around the newly built pump track in Kupondole.</figcaption></figure>Back in 2009, construction began in the Bagmati Corridor with the aim to restore the river’s long gone splendour. The wide floodplain with white sandy banks cannot be restored, but at least the river would serve as a green promenade.This week along by the Bagmati in Kupondole, just off the Thapathali Bridge, a group of cyclists and skateboarders were zipping about testing a newly completed pump track as onlookers gathered to watch from the walkway.It was built by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/pumpforpeace/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pump for Peace</a>, a global initiative that seeks to build such facilities in underprivileged communities around the world to make cycling accessible. Nepal By.cycle and Lalitpur Ward 1 office were also involved in building the 170 m long asphalt track that is the first of its kind in Nepal.“A pump track is a playground for any sort of wheel and any level of skill meaning you could ride this with a BMX, with a mountain bike, a scooter, an inline skate and sometimes you even see wheelchairs on it,” explains Claudio Caluari of <a href="https://velosolutions.com/pump-for-peace/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Velosolutions</a> the world-renowned Swiss company behind the philanthropic initiative Peace for Pump.“Even as a kid or a total beginner you can roll it as there are no dangerous parts on it, the more advanced can find their challenges, jumping or combining different lines,” Caluari told Nepali Times.Pump tracks have a looped sequence of rollers and berms that are designed to maximise the momentum so bike riders can ride without pedaling much. Pump track designs range from smaller backyard projects to larger ones and is an entry spot into the sport, where one can learn and develop skills before going to the mountains and riding.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022120710124/639057e49c7e80680e0ce179jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="828" height="621"><figcaption>Caludio Caluari of Pump for Peace at the track this week.</figcaption></figure>While pump tracks are not new, Caluari is credited with building them with asphalt. “With dirt tracks, you need people to maintain it and you can only ride your bikes on it during perfect weather. It cannot be too dry, or wet, it has to be moist and well maintained but when you use asphalt, you can use it any time with any sort of wheels and it is long lasting,” he says.Cycling is a growing sport in Nepal but the community does not have a place to hone skills. Though there are trails all over the country, there are no design-trails.“For the mountain biking, skateboarding and rollerblading community in Nepal, the pump track is a boon because it will help to make their riding skills better and in the future that will develop more athletes,” says Raj Gyawali of Nepal By.cycle.Umang Shrestha has been riding mountain bikes since 2009 and is a national trainer. He sees the introduction of a pump track as a positive development for mountain biking in Nepal.“The pump track is more rolling and faster. Riding here is completely different from the dirt tracks we have,” he says as he completes a loop in the track.The track in Kupondole was completed in less than ten days but the entire project was three years in the making. The team had initially scouted locations around Kathmandu including Gokarneswor and Lubhu before the Lalitpur Ward No. 1 came on board. Since the land was in the Bagmati corridor, they had to take permission from the Bagmati River Basin Improvement Project.“We saw it as an opportunity not just for the cycling community but also for our younger population,” says Harihar Tandukar, ward member of Lalitpur Ward No.1. “Having this here can entice our children to leave their cell phone and come out of their houses. So when they approached us, we came on board.”Caluari’s Velosolutions business has built more than 400 pump tracks around the world since 2004. Caluari custom designs each differently according to local conditions.“We have an idea of what works and what doesn’t, and it also depends on the skill level of the community. If it is the first pump track in the community, we don’t go with the craziest obstacles but even a simple design can have challenges for years,” he says.The seven-time Swiss National Champion and former World Cup race came up with the idea for Pump for Peace while building a track in Thailand for a wealthy client near the Cambodian border in front of a little village. When the team poured out the last wheelbarrow of asphalt, the children came with their old skateboard and rusty bikes to the track.This inspired him to bring pump tracks to other parts of the world that would normally not have access to it. “Seeing people riding in places like this makes my heart happy,” he says.Caluari’s next goal for Nepal is to Pump Track world championships and goal to bring a qualifier for the Pump Track World Championships here so that Nepali riders get a chance to qualify for the championships.Read Also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/rupeshs-epic-journey/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Rupesh's epic journey</a>, Naresh Newar<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/peddling-the-great-himalayan-trail/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Peddling the Great Himalayan Trail</a>, Sarah Watson

Kathmandu gets first pump track

The monsoon has got bad press because Nepal’s tourism operators actively told visitors to avoid <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/managing-the-monsoon?%2F">the rainy season</a>. It is time to change that. The reason can be found right here in the vast alpine meadows of Central Nepal where this time of year you can walk on velvet grass of pastures abloom with delicate pink, red and yellow flowers as the mist rolls up the valley. There is no sound except the hum of bumble bees. &nbsp;&nbsp; There are dozens of places across high Nepal called Chaurikharka, which means yak pasture. But this particular Chaurikharka in Rukum East located at an altitude of 4,000m stands out for its serene beauty, rustic charm and bucolic setting. There is just the occasional chime of <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/when-yaks-go-so-does-culture">yak bells</a> in the distance, and the sharp whistle of herders corralling sheep. &nbsp;&nbsp; The grass shoots are so fragile that one hesitates to step on them, the rounded ridges appear and quickly vanish in waves of mist. With the<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/before-the-next-monsoon"> arrival of monsoon</a>, these meadows are a soothing shade of green dotted with millions of <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/review/the-anatomy-of-a-flower?%2F=">multi-coloured flowers</a>. Until very recently, it took a week or so to hike up to places like Chaurikharka, but with the expansion of the road network even to these far-flung mountains in the lap of Dhaulagiri, they are much more accessible. It is just a three-hour uphill from the Mid-Hill Highway on the border between Baglung and Rukum East.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250802130828_a0b06b494d751b2144ffbbf10894ea64b29e8aed844bc8c66171783abfaf4e16.jpg" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="20250802130828_a0b06b494d751b2144ffbbf10894ea64b29e8aed844bc8c66171783abfaf4e16" data-rendition-name="original" width="2048" height="1365" loading="lazy" alt="Visit Nepal in the monsoon"> </figure>  Purists would say that such easy access devalues the sanctity of these remote high meadows, but it also means more people will be moved to treasure the experience, appreciate <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/natures-fragile-gift-to-nepal">the value of nature </a>so they can take steps to protect it.&nbsp; To be sure, the <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/deadly-monsoon-in-nepal-turns-deadlier">monsoon season can be challenging for road travel</a>. The roads are rough even at the best of times, and in the monsoon they become muddy and treacherous, often blocked by<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/monsoon-deluge-in-nepal"> landslides</a>. But that could be precisely the kind of adventure that the more intrepid visitors crave. Improved road connectivity has already made Chaurikharka and places like Badimallika &nbsp;and other sacred lakes in the mountains of western Nepal popular with domestic tourists. What is driving this traffic is the urge to go to exotic new places and share videos and selfies on social media. Several of Nepal’s travel vloggers have visited Chaurikharka and popularised the place, enticing followers on TikTok or YouTube to retrace their footsteps. But even as they become more popular, these fragile and once-remote places should be protected from over-tourism.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250731110736_f97110b7cdc3e7f80d5877690948fc9f4c95a09c583deb23b07355491e6c5446.jpg" data-media-id="editor_8" data-image-id="20250731110736_f97110b7cdc3e7f80d5877690948fc9f4c95a09c583deb23b07355491e6c5446" data-rendition-name="original" width="1083" height="699" loading="lazy" alt="Visit Nepal in the monsoon NT"> </figure>  <h2>INCREASING FOOTFALL</h2> Chaurikharka is located in Bhume Rural Municipality of East Rukum, near the scenic valley of Dhorpatan in Baglung district. Even in the <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/monsoon-culture">middle of the monsoon</a>, there is a steady stream of Nepali hikers trooping to these high pastures – especially during festival days like Saune Sankranti which this year was on 17 July and actually marks the auspicious beginning of the monsoon here. “This year the rains have not been as heavy and there have been some clear mornings when we could see everything from Dhaulagiri to Machapuchre,” says Khageswar Bhandari, who trekked up here from the road. “The flowers, the greenery and the snowy mountain views make this an incredibly unique place.”&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250802130824_1b9e26f2e9853fdfe69154bb42a7c9ea6da4bf4940efc1da99b304dcfbd7d3d9.jpg" data-media-id="editor_10" data-image-id="20250802130824_1b9e26f2e9853fdfe69154bb42a7c9ea6da4bf4940efc1da99b304dcfbd7d3d9" data-rendition-name="original" width="2048" height="1152" loading="lazy" alt="Visit Nepal in the monsoon"> </figure>  Chaurikharka is worthwhile to get to in any season, but it has a different charm during the monsoon. Word has spread and because it is now easy to get to from Baglung or even Pokhara, people have been flocking here.&nbsp; “Holidays and Saturdays see the largest crowds, with up to 500 visitors every day,” says ward chair Mankaji Pun of Bhume.&nbsp; There was a time not too long ago when local herders brought sheep, goats, cows, buffaloes, horses, and mules to graze here during the monsoon. Although there are still livestock around, animals have been replaced by visitors taking selfies. Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/the-monsoon-and-nature-s-arithmetic">The monsoon, and nature’s arithmetic</a>, Tom Robertson Ward Chair Pun says infrastructure development is his main priority. A foot trail to Chaurikharka was built last year by the Tourism Division Office in Kohalpur, but access via the Raniwas-Koipa road section still remains challenging.&nbsp; “If we get more budget, we can improve the road and facilities to make Chaurikharka the main tourist attraction of this region,” says Bhume Municipality Chair Hom Prakash Shrestha. “After that, we hope to promote Chaurikharka as a top tourist spot.”&nbsp; Economic activity is also picking up with the arrival of visitors, but there seems to be a need to manage the makeshift sheds made of corrugated sheets that spoil the beauty of the place. Tea shops and lodges are also available but facilities are basic. Kuldeep Neupane took a three-day trip from Ghorahi in Dang to visit Chaurikharka recently, and says: “This is an ideal trip to make a quick getaway and let nature recharge your mind and body. And it is much more fun with a tent, to watch the sunrise over the Himalaya or the mist blowing in.”

Visit Nepal in the monsoon

The final investigation report on the crash of a Saurya Airlines jet on 24 July 2024 at Kathmandu airport has revealed flaws in the carrier’s technical operation procedures, poor monitoring by the Civil Aviation Authority of Nepal (CAAN) and gaps in the airport’s emergency response. Eighteen people including a child were killed, and only the captain survived as the plane plunged seconds after takeoff, crashing within the airport perimeter. This was the latest in a series of aircraft accidents in previous years, and further tarnished Nepal’s already poor aviation safety record and contributed to the country being retained in the EU’s air safety list. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; The circumstances in the Saurya crash were different from the Yeti Airlines crash in Pokhara in January 2022 that killed all 72 on board, and two Tara Air crashes in February 2016 and May 2022 on approach to Jomsom that together claimed 45 lives. However, all four tragedies were a result of negligence of carriers and crew, failure to follow procedures, regulatory slackness, and overconfidence. The Saurya crash, especially, was a glaring example of how an ailing airline broke its own rules to allow passengers, including non-employees, a joy ride to Pokhara on a maintenance ferry flight. CRASH REPORT The Final Investigation Report prepared by the Aircraft Accident Investigation Commission and released on the first anniversary of the crash last week carried a long list of rules that were ignored or broken, and of regulatory failure. The first mistake was to cram spares, tools and inflammable chemicals needed for the aircraft’s C-Check in Pokhara into the cargo hold flouting its own ground handling procedures.&nbsp; There was no check-in of passengers, some of whom were not even employees – even though regulations say only flight and maintenance crew should be on board a maintenance positioning flight. Many brought their own luggage into the plane and stored it unsecured in the cabin. There was no flight attendant to give a safety briefing to passengers. The load and trim charts given to the flight crew were rough estimates, and the total takeoff weight of the plane was 18,300kg plus or minus 200 kg. That would still have been all right, but there was a glaring mistake in the speedchart Saurya pilots were using to calculate the minimum takeoff speed (known as VR), and it had been wrong ever since the 21-year-old aircraft entered service with the airline in 2017. FAULTY DATA&nbsp; The Commission probed Flight Data Recorder inputs from previous takeoffs of the Canadian-built CRJ200-LR in 2023-2024 and found that the undetected error in the speedchart had caused the plane to pitch up at an abnormal rotation rate at least 18 times on previous takeoffs.&nbsp; Any rotation rate more than 3°/sec is regarded as unusual. But on at least two occasions, this aircraft with tail number 9N-AME had rotation rates of 5.8°/sec and 5.5°/sec, the second one was when the pilot who survived was flying in March 2024.&nbsp; On this particular day, the plane’s rotation rate was 6.5°/sec, causing it to go into a deep stall soon after takeoff, the Commission report said. Essentially, the plane was not flying fast enough down the runway to take off safely.&nbsp; It is not yet clear whether excess weight, unsecured luggage, wrong centre of gravity were also factors, but relying on a faulty speedchart for the given takeoff weight, the captain flying pulled back on the yoke before the plane had reached takeoff speed and at a pitch angle that was too steep. The investigation report says the plane then went into a deep stall and started banking right with the stick shaking. At this point, the flight officer on the right hand seat is heard on the cockpit voice recorder saying: “Whoa, whoa, whoa. Sir, Sir, Sir…” It then banked left before the pilot flying turned the plane sharply to the right again in an evasive action to avoid the parking aprons of the international and domestic terminals. Had he not done so, there would have been a disaster of a much greater magnitude at Kathmandu airport that day. The plane scraped the runway with its right wingtip, collided with a container having helicopter spare parts, and plunged into a gully east of the runway, exploding in a fireball. The investigation also noted that the impact forces seemed to be survivable for some occupants. The fire trucks took unnecessarily long to reach the site even though it was inside the airport perimeter. The absence of an ICAO-standard runway strip, inadequate rescue drills, lack of training, and a blocked emergency service gate leading to the crash site were cited as other factors. &nbsp;&nbsp; <h2>Timestamp of a Disaster</h2>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250731110724_39cdd04693994ce6e55a5b302905c0fa4884fe85bed21ff0779bb1439f3a5725.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="20250731110724_39cdd04693994ce6e55a5b302905c0fa4884fe85bed21ff0779bb1439f3a5725" data-rendition-name="original" width="778" height="826" loading="lazy" alt="Flouting rules caused Saurya tragedy NT"> </figure>  11:10:34 - The Saurya Airlines CRJ200 on the takeoff roll from runway 02. It had a takeoff weight of about 18,300kg, but the pilot’s speedcard had a previously undetected mistake about the minimum takeoff speed. 11:10:55 -The plane with tail number 9N-AME goes into deep stall soon after takeoff because it does not have enough speed to lift its weight. The plane also has an abnormally steep nose-up attitude.&nbsp; 11:11:03 - Without enough speed to generate lift, the plane banks right, then left and right again in CCTV photos taken from the domestic apron (below). If it had not banked right, it could have hit the aprons and terminal buildings. Seen parked is Saurya’s other CRJ200 with tail number 9N-ANM.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20250731110732_608132f7225c649125cca2691dd6a6bf930984c5b359e888d7ad9e5eacce3afd.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="20250731110732_608132f7225c649125cca2691dd6a6bf930984c5b359e888d7ad9e5eacce3afd" data-rendition-name="original" width="770" height="555" loading="lazy" alt="Flouting rules caused Saurya tragedy NT"> </figure>  11:11:08 - The plane scrapes the runway with its right wingtip, and falls into the gully. The captain is thrown off the left side of the cockpit and survives. 11:11:15: Plane explodes in a fireball inside the airport perimeter. Firefighters take time to reach the site because of lack of access road and a blocked gate. Read the full investigation report <a href="https://www.tourism.gov.np/files/9N-AME%20AIC%20Final%20Report.pdf">here</a>.

Flouting rules caused Saurya tragedy

French citizen Louis arrived in Nepal for the first time earlier this year, planning to <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/the-abcs-of-a-winter-trek-in-nepal">trek the Annapurna Circuit </a>before heading down to Bardia to hopefully catch a glimpse of some<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/nepal-counting-its-tigers"> tigers</a>. Before he began his journey from Besisahar, Louis (who only revealed his first name) had imagined breathing crisp mountain air, and following the melodious gurgle of the Marsyangdi.&nbsp; Instead, he had to breathe fumes and dust all the way to Chame. Louis says he masked his face with a handkerchief: “It was not what I expected, this is not right.”  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2025080304080_f03fce1527cf8a63178e4e82589a1a7096c8cfa28893ca4a5f7fe82d91a6e38a.jpg" data-media-id="editor_2" data-image-id="2025080304080_f03fce1527cf8a63178e4e82589a1a7096c8cfa28893ca4a5f7fe82d91a6e38a" data-rendition-name="original" width="2419" height="1814" loading="lazy" alt="Manang trails NT 1"> </figure>  Many other trekkers are similarly disappointed as roads have been built along what used to be <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/a-walk-back-in-time-chandragiri-hatiban">walking trails</a>. Manang and Humla are the last remote regions in the Himalaya to be connected to the national road network. &nbsp;Construction of the 87km Besisahar-Manang road began in 1994, but was stalled during <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/14-years-after-conflict-no-closure-in-nepal">the Maoist conflic</a>t, and finally finished in 2012.&nbsp; Most of it has not yet been blacktopped, and sections have been carved out of vertical cliff faces, making them treacherous. But it has allowed road access to Manang, a journey that previously took a week on foot.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2025080304084_32b3ca875a0df9f1dd42dbe915e6f6a2cd4f2e53f1cf2d3ee5cbdb3435905000.jpg" data-media-id="editor_5" data-image-id="2025080304084_32b3ca875a0df9f1dd42dbe915e6f6a2cd4f2e53f1cf2d3ee5cbdb3435905000" data-rendition-name="original" width="2400" height="1505" loading="lazy" alt="Manang trails NT 1"> </figure>  While the <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/the-road-out-of-nepal">road has improved access</a>, it has impacted on<a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/trekking-in-the-time-of-climate-change"> trekking tourism </a>— the mainstay of Manang’s economy. The number of tourists visiting the scenic valley behind the Annapurnas grew from 21,245 in 2023 to 30,866 in 2024. The Annapurna Circuit is known for unique sights like <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=9194">Tilicho</a>, one of the highest lakes in the world, the Thorong La pass that connects Manang to Mustang, and the valley’s own rich cultural heritage. Thorong La at 5,416m is the highest hiking pass in the world, and was used by locals for trade with Mustang before it became a <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/opinion/comment/lift-restrictions-on-upper-mustang">popular trekking route</a>. &nbsp; “For guests, the excitement of reaching Thorong La is now overshadowed by their disappointment of having to journey through dusty roads to get there,” says Manang lodge-owner Ongma Gurung. “That is the complaint we get the most.” <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/tourism-that-treads-lightly-on-the-land">Local tourism </a>operators are trying to get the government to build alternative foot trails. But there have been delays due to a lack of budget.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2025080304084_c5f76e398182785bb17846a148e3ca89de5687b4623580f8e2d725a7a287edfa.jpg" data-media-id="editor_11" data-image-id="2025080304084_c5f76e398182785bb17846a148e3ca89de5687b4623580f8e2d725a7a287edfa" data-rendition-name="original" width="2419" height="1762" loading="lazy" alt="Manang trails"> </figure>  The Naso Rural Municipality has identified other routes along the Annapurna Circuit in Chyamche, Tal, and Khotro so trekkers can bypass heavy vehicles involved in the construction of the Manang-Marsyangdi Hydropower Project. “But the local government cannot do everything,” admits the chair Dhan Bahadur Gurung. “And for leaders in Kathmandu, Manang is out of sight and out of mind.” Munindra Jung Gurung represents Manang in the Gandaki Provincial Assembly, and says he has raised the issue in <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/pokhara-s-tourism-woes">Pokhara</a>. He is hopeful there will be a hearing. To be sure, the road is not all bad news. Locals benefit, the number of visitors has grown, and trekkers can now also save time and use it to explore <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=5960">side valleys in Manang</a>, visiting the villages like Nar and Phu. Annapurna Conservation Area (ACA) chief Rabin Kadariya concedes that the road to Upper Manang was crucial to connect the remote region with the rest of Nepal, but adds: “We have built an alternative trail connecting Talgaun, and we will consult local communities about their priorities on other hiking trails.”&nbsp;

Trailing off in Manang

American artist Peter Makela was in Nepal in 2022 on a Fulbright scholarship when he experienced the Matya festival in Patan in which devotees made the rounds of the city’s shrines.&nbsp;
He joined the procession, walking through 2,600 stupa and 140 bahal of the town. That immersion left a lasting impression.
As part of Gallery Mcube’s international residency program in Patan, he put his inspiration to canvas in the exhibition Yala Yatra: Walking, Working, Worshipping. The exhibition also coincides with this month’s Matya festival.&nbsp;
Makela has visited Nepal often in the past 11 years but he mostly stayed in and spent his time around Boudha. “This time I stayed in Patan, put the sites I wanted to visit on my map, and off I went,” he tells us. “Each of my artwork is inspired by the stupas and shrines in Patan that I visited.”
The stupa and Ganesh are recurring motifs in his watercolours, and the elephant gods are located in chaityas — reflecting the interplay and blending of the Hindu and Buddhist faiths in Kathmandu Valley.&nbsp;
The stupas and Ganesh are painted in vivid red, yellow, blue and green against abstract backgrounds meant to represent the sky.
“I use the sky as a backdrop because the sky has no border,” says Makela. “The four colours represent the four elements, the different Buddha families and also lights bouncing off of a rainbow.”
The use of just four colours for all the artwork stands out, and combined with the absence of heavy canvases, frames or stands render Makela’s art striking in its simplicity.&nbsp;
The Ganesh is always holding something and the art also portrays the elephant god’s sacred vehicle, the mouse.
While his vibrant stupas and Ganesh reflect the tangibility of Patan’s tradition and heritage, it is as if the backdrops with their shades of grey and red and yellow capture the soul of the city’s shrines.
“If you look closely, there is a sense of form and formlessness at the same time,” he says.&nbsp;
Makela walked 108 kora around the shrines during his exploration of the town, and in the process developed a spiritual connection with Patan’s heritage and traditions.&nbsp;
The exhibition connects with visitors on a deeper, more spiritual, level as well. And with it, they feel a sense of pride as well as the need to urgently preserve Patan’s heritage for future generations.
“Peter’s inclination and approach towards Nepali art and culture is fascinating, and it reflects in his work,” says Mcube curator Manish Lal Shrestha, whose international artist residency program promotes Nepal’s cultural heritage. &nbsp;&nbsp;
Yala Yatra: Walking, Working, Worshipping
1-5 August&nbsp;
10AM-7PM
Gallery Mcube, Patan

mountain-bike-riding

Wheeling in the woods

Kathmandu gets first pump track

Visit Nepal in the monsoon

Flouting rules caused Saurya tragedy

Trailing off in Manang

Walking, working, worshipping in Patan