https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nvOL_MJ2KI&amp;feature=youtu.beFlying from <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/more-than-luck-in-lukla/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kathmandu to Lukla</a> today is almost like taking an international flight. Passengers need a negative RT PCR report not older than 72 hours, have to wear masks, visors and latex gloves on the 45-minute Twin Otter flight.  The <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/on-thin-ice-in-the-khumbu/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Khumbu Valley</a> below Mt Everest is so far coronavirus-free, and residents here want to keep it that way.Which is why they have enforced strict rules on outsiders. Since flights restarted on 17 September, Nepalis who had been cooped up for months by the lockdown are making up for the absence of <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/trekkers-welcome-in-nepal-but-conditions-apply/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">foreign trekkers</a>. Non-Nepali tourists are going to be allowed to fly to Kathmandu after 30 October, although many trek reservations have been cancelled. <img width="640" height="359" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109171152/636bdb179c7e80680e0802a3jpeg.jpg" alt=""/>Ang Jangmu Sherpa (pictured left) owns Rivendell Lodge in Debuche which has a stunning view of <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/nepal-china-re-measure-height-of-mt-everest/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Everest</a>, Lhotse and Ama Dablam. She is happy several groups of Nepalis arrived after the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/nepal-allows-royal-himalayan-expedition/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bahrain Royal Guard expedition</a> members came last month to acclimatise and train in the area. “It’s not just our Khumbu region where businesses are suffering. The entire world is affected by Covid,” she said. “We have invested a lot of money to build this place, and suddenly we are in the midst of this crisis.”Aside from the economic difficulties, Ang Jangmu is also worried about visitors bringing the coronavirus to the Khumbu. But she adds: “As long as people take precautions, get PCR tests, Nepalis are welcome and that would be good enough for now.”Records show nearly 60,000 visitors entered the Sagarmatha National Park last year, contributing more than Rs180 million in fees and permits. That does not include another levy charged by the municipality, and also what tourists spend on food, lodgings and paying porters.  <figure><img width="960" height="720" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109171152/636bdb199c7e80680e0802a4jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>The spring season had just started in March when the Covid-19 pandemic hit, the government cancelled all <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/hiking-in-the-himalaya-during-covid-19/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">trekking and mountaineering</a>, and tourists had to rush back to Kathmandu to catch flights out before Nepal went into lockdown on 24 March.There had been zero tourists since then. In September, Nepali trekkers started trickling in and the only foreign mountaineering expedition this autumn climbing Mt Manalsu in central Nepal had acclimatised on nearby Mt Lobuje last month. <figure><img width="640" height="480" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109171152/636bdb1b9c7e80680e0802a5jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>Many lodge-owners are happy that at least Nepali visitors are finally arriving in the Khumbu after a quiet spring and monsoon, and they see no reason why foreigners should be kept away, as long as they take health precautions. “Either the government should look after tourism-sector workers like us, or it should end restrictions on movements of tourists and allow them to travel to the Himalaya with necessary safety measures,” says mountain guide Dawa Nuru Sherpa (left) in the village of Pangboche. “Porters have no work, hotels are facing problems. We should welcome Nepalis, at least people like us can work and earn our living.”Dawa Nuru was happy that his sons and daughter could work for the Bahrain Royal Guard expedition team on Lobuje, and is glad to see several groups of Nepali trekkers have spent night here on their <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/too-many-mules-on-the-everest-trail/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">way to Everest Base Camp</a>.Nepali tourists are taking advantage of attractive packages offered by airlines, helicopter companies and lodges in the Khumbu. Tara Air, for example, is discounting roundtrip Kathmandu-Lukla flights with four days to Namche and back for only Rs14,000. <figure><img width="640" height="359" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109171152/636bdb1d9c7e80680e0802a6jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>“We wanted to use the opportunity to get to see Nepal," said Bishnu Parajuli from Butwal, who works in Abu Dhabi, and has been stuck in Nepal because of the lockdowns. "We followed all the travel safety protocols to visit Gokyo. It was worth every paisa we spent and every step we took. It was amazing and unforgettable.”Pasang Yangji Sherpa who runs Sherpa Guide Lodge in Phakding was happy to greet visitors after months. As 27 Nepalis arived from Lukla, she had a busy morning last week preparing food and rooms for them. Her neighbor Indra Maya Magar, also a lodge owner, came to help. Pasang Yangji said, “It’s a crisis time but now I’m happy to welcome Nepali tourists. We are following health guidelines, although sometimes in the kitchen or restaurant it is difficult." <figure><img width="640" height="480" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109171152/636bdb1f9c7e80680e0802a7jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>In Khumjung, lodge owner Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa, who has climbed <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/measuring-mt-everest-because-it-is-there/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mt Everest</a> and Ama Dablam twice each, looks worried. Khumjung is slightly off the beaten track on the trail between Namche and Tengboche, and few villagers wear masks. Last week, he talked to visitors from two metres away, wore a mask, and encouraged them to use his sanitiser.“The PCR tests you do in Kathmandu may not be reliable because you move a lot after that test: you were in a plane, met people after that, you may have caught the virus along the way. We have also heard there are fake PCR reports,” he says. Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality in Namche, has set up health check posts along key trails that require PCR negative reports from all visitors. The municipality is trying to set up PCR testing facilities in Lukla and Namche, not just for trekkers, but also for the porters they hire who are mainly from further down the Valley in Okhaldhunga or Khotang. <figure><img width="640" height="480" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109171152/636bdb219c7e80680e0802a8jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>“We don’t have the right health infrastructure at present for PCR tests,” says Lhakpa Tsheri Sherpa of the municipality, “for the moment we have no choice but to rely on PCR reports from Kathmandu.”<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109171152/636bdb239c7e80680e0802a9jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="359">It is not just the tourist lodges that are suffering, Sagarmatha National Park also depends on revenue from trekker fees to finance its conservation work, and has been hurting from the loss of income.  The Park’s Chief Conservation Officer Bhumiraj Upadhyay (pictured left) has this piece of advice to <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/declare-a-health-emergency/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">prospective visitors over the Dasain holidays</a>:  “Please make sure that you get a proper PCR test before coming here. If you do so, you will know that you are safe and you will help people of Khumbu remain safe from the virus.”

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Everest Trail reopens, but cautiously

<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109121120/636b8d8e9c7e80680e06b354jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="960" height="720"/><figcaption>Three of the musk deer found dead in traps laid by poachers during the COVID-19 lockdown in Sagarmatha National Park on Sunday. Photo: DAWA NURU SHERPA / FACEBOOK</figcaption></figure>Poachers have killed six musk deer in the forests inside <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=6140#.Xqb1ly8w0Wo" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id%3D6140%23.Xqb1ly8w0Wo&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1588086987142000&amp;usg=AFQjCNHWtgTEn-gJBWBHaqI8iuJF44DTyQ">Sagarmatha National Park</a> using the COVID-19 lockdown period in Nepal, in one of the worst cases of wildlife poaching in the reserve below Mt Everest in recent years.Photographs of the dead deer and the wire traps that they were caught in were posted on Facebook by Khumbu resident <a href="https://www.facebook.com/dawanuru.sherpa" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.facebook.com/dawanuru.sherpa&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1588086987142000&amp;usg=AFQjCNEMjfHdS0y8kjKdio_klu86D_iuqg">Dawa Nuru Sherpa</a>, who also wrote a scathing condemnation of the park authorities for their inability to control wildlife and timber poaching.“It is very disturbing, this is the worst case of wildlife poaching in the history here,” admitted Pemba Sherpa of the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/more-trekkers-more-trees/" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/more-trekkers-more-trees/&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1588086987142000&amp;usg=AFQjCNH3Ts2hspzPv-1sOm3NHDsbEHOl1g">Sagarmatha National Park</a>. He said the previous case was more than a decade ago when three endangered musk deer had been found killed.<a style="font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 0.01em;" href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/what-drives-wildlife-poaching/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">What drives wildlife poaching?</a>, Sonia AwaleOf the six deer, two were decomposed, one was female and three male. The musk pods of only one of the deer had been extracted, and the pouches in the other two were intact. Park officials said the decomposed deer had been dead for at least a month.There were an additional 54 wire traps in a deep gorge of the Imja Khola below Syangboche. A golden eagle was also found dead in one of the traps. It is thought that the poachers could not go to the traps to harvest the musk pods of the other deer because of the lockdown.This has lead conservationists to conclude that there must have been at least five or six poachers, and that this must have been an organised group of criminals with ties to smugglers.The <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/issue/345/Interview/13450#.Xqb1My8w0Wo" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=http://archive.nepalitimes.com/issue/345/Interview/13450%23.Xqb1My8w0Wo&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1588086987142000&amp;usg=AFQjCNGX-At_vAiBPCxiSEBEAlPJcO_hVg">Himalayan musk deer</a> is in the <a href="https://www.iucnredlist.org/species/13901/61977764" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.iucnredlist.org/species/13901/61977764&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1588086987142000&amp;usg=AFQjCNEcEajLPUihlVKELsevwp9_ckiolg">IUCN Endangered List</a>, and is prized for the musk pouch found in the male of the species which fetch thousands of dollars in China and Korea, where they are used in traditional medicine, perfumery and cosmetics.Locals in Khumbu are outraged by the discovery, and blame the national park and the Nepal Army that guards the park for not being vigilant enough during the lockdown period.<a style="font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 0.01em;" href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/is-wildlife-conservation-a-victim-of-its-own-success-in-nepal/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Is wildlife conservation a victim of its own success in Nepal?</a>, Mukesh Pokhrel“We local Sherpas do not killed wildlife for religious reasons, but there are many non-Khumbu residents whose source of tourism income has dried up because of the COVID-19 lockdown, and this is why poaching must have increased,” said one Namche Bazar resident who declined to be named. “If they had an intelligence network, they could easily have been caught.”A suspected poacher from Sankhuwasabha was found near Phortse army post last month by locals and soldiers, and handed over to the national park. However, officials said the musk deer was found to have died of natural causes and the person was released.In the Facebook post, Dawa Nuru Sherpa also accused the official of allowing trees to be cut in the Tengboche area for use to repair a guest house being run by the National Park. “The cries of help from these musk deer and eagles caught in traps must be haunting you,” the letter notes, pointing the finger at the park’s Chief Conservation Officer.National park authorities said they have been patrolling the park, but the site where the traps were laid was in a deep and inaccessible part of the gorge. They said a joint team composed of the army and locals had been formed, and a meeting is scheduled tomorrow with local communities, youth groups and the park and buffer zone to stop further illegal activities.Said Pemba Sherpa from the Sagarmatha National Park: “Because of the lockdown, we think the culprits are still in the area, and we are confident we can find them.”A marked increase in wildlife and timber poaching has been reported from community forests and national parks across Nepal during the monthlong lockdown, which has been extended till 7 May.Read also:<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/in-conservation-nepal-is-not-out-of-the-woods-yet/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">In conservation, Nepal is not out of the woods yet</a>, Sonia Awale<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/its-a-jungle-out-there/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">It's a jungle out there</a>, Kunda Dixit

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Everest Trail reopens, but cautiously

6 musk deer killed by poachers during lockdown