<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221110101156/636ccb3d9c7e80680e08bbb0jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="683"/><figcaption>Pokhara's much-delayed new international airport is scheduled to open early next year. Photo: Krishna Mani Baral</figcaption></figure>2020 was a write-off for Nepal’s tourism, and for Pokhara, the country’s prime destination, it was catastrophic. But guess who have come to rescue the city from complete ruin: Nepali travellers.Pokhara’s hotels, bars, paragliding and ultralight clubs for which international tourists were the main source of income have, at least partially, recovered because of domestic visitors.To be sure, Lakeside wears a forlorn look—especially since Phewa has been drained for dam repairs. The trekking trails of Annapurna Base Camp, Mardi, Sikles, or Ghorepani for which Pokhara served as a base camp, are also largely deserted.One year on after the pandemic scare sent visitors home in a hurry, Pokhara has never really recovered. More than 25% of hotels, restaurants and shops that depended on tourism have permanently closed, others are for sale.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221110101156/636ccb3f9c7e80680e08bbb1jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="1000"><figcaption>Some Pokhara restaurants like Mughlan are open for business.</figcaption></figure>“Pokhara has more than 700 hotels with 30,000 beds, but the pandemic has affected all of them, including restaurants, paragliding and ultralight companies, zipline,” says Gopi Bhattarai of Pokhara Tourism Council. “They all need a stimulus, tax breaks or debt rescue from the government.”But Pokhara has survived. The city’s hospitality industry now sees light at the end of the tunnel with the new vaccines, a drop in Covid-19 cases in Nepal, the completion of Pokhara’s new international airport. But most of all , it is the arrival of fellow-Nepalis that offers respite.Many urban Nepalis fed up of being locked down for months yearned to escape. For those  planning to get away from Kathmandu’s pollution, or the damp cold of fog-bound Tarai cities, Pokhara became the ideal escape.“We have at least 50-60 Nepali passengers on package tours to Pokhara from Kathmandu every day through our Buddha Holidays subsidiary,” says Buddha Air Managing Director Birendra Bahadur Basnet<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221110101156/636ccb429c7e80680e08bbb2jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1280" height="720"><figcaption>Photo: Niranjan Shrestha</figcaption></figure><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221110101156/636ccb459c7e80680e08bbb3jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1778" height="1000"><figcaption>Photo: Tulsi Rauniyar</figcaption></figure>Basnet has big plans to make Pokhara’s new airport the hub for his expansion into western Nepal in 2023 with a new aircraft that can operate in remote airfields with short runways. He also sees huge potential for Indian tourists after the border is re-opened, for which he plans Nepalganj-Pokhara flights.After the lockdown, the tourism industry here realised that internal visitors could sustain the sector until international tourists returned. It launched the Jaun Hai Pokhara campaign in eastern Nepal in December, and in the Western Tarai in April. Pokhara’s businesses also lobbied hard with the government to declare a 5-day work week in an effort to tap weekend visitors.“If the government introduces two-day weekends, that would support internal tourism, while providing Nepalis with a much-needed stress relief caused by the pandemic,” says Bhattarai at the Pokhara Tourism Council. “But now is the time to also diversify our destinations, we cannot depend on the same landmarks like the lake, waterfall and cave.”<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221110101156/636ccb489c7e80680e08bbb4jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1583" height="776">Airlines, hotels and travel agencies are waiting for the much-delayed Pokhara International Airport opening early next year so that more domestic flights can be accommodated, and international tourists can bypass Kathmandu.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221110101156/636ccb4b9c7e80680e08bbb5jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="3000" height="1688"><figcaption>Drone image of Pokhara's new airport looking east.</figcaption></figure>Says Binesh Munankarmi, manager of the airport project: “Domestic tourists will now be able to come to Pokhara for  weekends, which has not been feasible due to the restricted flights. And Pokhara will be connected directly to the outside world.”Kashi Raj Bhandari, head of Gandaki Province for Nepal Tourism Board thinks that post-pandemic the airport can start flying in tourists from neighbouring countries. He says, “Since Covid-19 is under control, we must open our borders to visitors from China and India. Later, we can also think of European, North American and East Asia visitors. There is  a lot of pent-up demand for wilderness adventures in Nepal.”However, even though the coronavirus numbers are not as frightening as before, some business owners here are not so optimistic about the return of international tourists. Of the two 5-star hotels in Pokhara, only one is functioning, four 4-star hotels are open but they all have only 10% occupancy even with domestic tourists.“Foreign tourism is zero, and it does not look like they will return until the conditions improve,” says Bikal Tulachan of the Paschimanchal Hotel Association. “Even if the Covid-19 numbers are down, political instability is hurting travel and shutdowns have started again.”Some, however, have taken the opportunity of the lockdown to expand, maintain and upgrade their hotels in the hope that travel will pick up and even exceed pre-Covid levels. Raniban resort is spending NRs60 million to add 14 more rooms.“Local tourists have started coming, but until international guests return we will not be able to sustain the business and keep paying staff salaries,” says Raniban’s Aksab Shrestha. ‘Despite all this the future of tourism in Pokhara is bright. That is why we are investing on expansion.”<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221110101156/636ccb4e9c7e80680e08bbb6jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="960" height="1280"><figcaption>Annapurna II and IV by moonlight from the window of Barahi Hotel on Sarangkot. Photo: Niranjan Shrestha</figcaption></figure>At the Shangri-La Village resort in the city occupancy over new year was 90% thanks to Nepali guests. “We would not have had so many Nepalis staying before the pandemic,” says manager Gupta Giri.Along Lakeside, there used to be more than 200 restaurants and bars. Many had been shuttered, but with the return of Nepali tourists, a few have reopened. “We see a glimmer of hope as visitors have started to return to Pokhara,” says Laxman Baral of the Restaurant and Bar Association of Nepal (REBAN, Pokhara).Small clothing and handicraft shop owners at Lakeside note that although domestic tourists do not splurge as much as their foreign counterparts, the purchases are crucial to keep them afloat. Taxi owners like Keshav Raj Baral now makes only five local sightseeing trips, but says there are Nepalis who book his car for the whole day.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221110101156/636ccb509c7e80680e08bbb7jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1778" height="1000"><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221110101156/636ccb539c7e80680e08bbb8jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="768"><figcaption>Mt Machapuchre (6,990m) from Sarangkot. Photos: Niranjan Shrestha</figcaption></figure>Live music still floats out of numerous bars and restaurants during the evening, but the pandemic has affected Pokhara’s once-vibrant nightlife. “The business is alright during the weekends with Nepalis but there is not much traffic on weekdays,” says Yogesh Bhattarai of the popular Busy Bee bar.Catwalk is also gearing up to open its doors. “We were closed for a year, but did not wait any longer,” says the night club’s Amrit Pahari.Dorjee Lama’s Moondance Restaurant reopened after the lockdown and has been operating with less than 10 staff. He says that although the pandemic wrought havoc in the restaurant business, he has not given up hope. “We survived an insurgency and an economic blockade, so this crisis doesn’t faze us,” says Lama, expressing Pokhara’s indomitable spirit. “We see the hope of brighter days.”Although Nepali visitors have rescued businesses for now, Gopi Bhattarai of Pokhara Tourism Council says: “Because of the investment that has been made by Pokhara’s tourism entrepreneurs, it is clear that we cannot survive just on the income from domestic tourists.”______________________________________________________<h2>Thrills and Spills</h2><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221110101156/636ccb559c7e80680e08bbb9jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1489" height="820">One of the most dramatic growths in Pokhara has been in paragliding off Sarangkot and surrounding hills. There are now 60 paragliding companies which employ 350 licensed pilots. After the lockdown was lifted in September, paragliding took off as companies offered 50% discounts for Nepalis.“There are now young Nepali tourists from Kathmandu, Chitwan, Butwal and other cities making up to 300 flights a day,” says Krishna Bhandari of the Nepal Airsports Association.Even as the streets are emptier than usual, the skies are dotted with the colourful paragliders. Up at the jump-off point in Sarangkot, the excitement is palpable among Nepali tourists lining up to buy tickets. As he checks on his equipment in preparation of a flight, pilot Aayush Shah notes that he has seen more Nepalis lining up to paraglide lately than before the pandemic.Nepalis have been attracted by discounts for flights. Says Krishna Bhandari, “Usually, Nepalis make up 30% of the total paragliders annually, this year it is 100%.”Paragliding companies did a total of 800 flights a day on average during the Dasain holidays after the lockdown, now it averages 300 a day.The three ultralight companies which operate sight-seeing flights to the Annapurna from Pokhara airport have also seen an increase in interest from Nepali guests. Pokhara also has zip-line and bungee jumping, but these have not seen a tourism rebound as the other adventure sports.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221110101156/636ccb589c7e80680e08bbbajpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1778" height="1000"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221110101156/636ccb5b9c7e80680e08bbbbjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="683">HighGround Adventures gets only four to five passengers for its 1,865 meter feet zip-line but is still keeping itself operational. HighGround’s Hari Chapai says, “It is shortsighted to close down a business because of the current situation. We have to send the message that we are up and running.”Because of social media posts, the numbers of Nepalis taking the plunge to bungee jump is picking up. “We have introduced the tandem jump after the lockdown targeting domestic tourists,” says HighGround’s Dinesh Maharjan. “The response has been very encouraging.”______________________________________________________<h2>Hike Hype</h2><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221110101156/636ccb5d9c7e80680e08bbbcjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="1000"><figcaption>Dog on the Mardi Ridge Trek. Photo: Tulsi Rauniyar</figcaption></figure>Nepal Tourism Board has used the pandemic period to come up with new trekking trails and destinations, including the Sikles-Tanting Trail, Kapuche Lake Trek and the Maurice Herzog Trail to North Annapurna Base Camp.The best promotion has been Nepalis posting photos and videos of their treks to Mardi Himal, Mulde Peak, or Kapuche Lake – turning these to new destinations besides the usual Poon Hill and Ghandruk.Indeed, Shuvabi Pradhan from Kathmandu decided it would be well worth a visit to the Gurung village of Sikles after having watched travelogues and blog posts. When a video of an avalanche at Kapuche Lake went viral last month, there was a spurt in trekkers to Sikles."The trails around Pokhara has a place for everyone and every adventure,” says Pradhan. “It has always been the perfect getaway location for me, be it solo or with family and friends. Since foreign travel is restricted, Nepalis are discovering Nepal.”<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221110101156/636ccb609c7e80680e08bbbdjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1189" height="1444"><figcaption>Kapuche Lake near Sikles is the lowest glacial lake in Nepal.</figcaption></figure>Realising this, Nepal Tourism Board is forming a Domestic Tourism Revival Committee that will work towards strategising ways to encourage domestic tourism to destinations like Pokhara. “Domestic tourism needs to be more organised. NTB’s effort will create opportunities for organized trekking and mountaineering among domestic tourists.”There is a silver lining in the absence of international trekkers, the fact that Nepalis are venturing forth where they did not go before.“Revenue wise, the mountain tourism industry is at a zero right now. There’s no revival, only survival,’ says Sushil Poudel, the Chairman of Trekking Agencies’ Association of Nepal. But he says it is encouraging to see adventurous Nepalis on the trails.For domestic backpackers, the pandemic has proven to be an opportunity to discover their country. “With the lockdown, many were seen returning to their villages and ancestral homes. Many started exploring beyond the normal trekking routes and discovered new trekking trails while showcasing them to other Nepali backpackers on social media,” says Rishav, one of the five members of Ghumante, a band of young Nepali travellers based in Pokhara.

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Cleared to land

<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221110111120/636cd1159c7e80680e08f893jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="845" height="502"/><figcaption></figcaption></figure>Every crisis is also a chance to improve. The global pandemic wrecked Nepal’s economy in 2020, and its impact will be felt on tourist arrivals for at least the next two years. But it also provides us the opportunity to re-invent the existing model of tourism.This important sector of the economy could do with a <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/editorial/the-nepal-brand/">major overhaul.</a> The process should have started during the Covid-induced collapse of tourism, as the hotels, airlines, agencies were just trying to survive, with little indication of how long the crisis would last.It now looks like <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/survive-2020-revive-in-2021-and-thrive-in-2022/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">global tourism will be affected</a> right through the 2020s. Which is why Nepal’s tourism entrepreneurs and planners need to think about riding out the next two or three years, and plan for a revival.The direction we have to take is clear: the benefits from climbing, hiking, wildlife, culture tourism must be more equitably distributed and conducted sustainably. Nepal’s new tourism model has to be high yield, the focus must be on maximum employment generation so people are not forced to migrate, while we also promote self-reliance in agricultural and other items that can be produced locally.Spreading the benefits of tourism also means ensuring that visitor spending is maximised in the regions where it can make the most difference in uplifting socio-economic wellbeing. The existing model diverts most of the money visitors spend on their Nepal package to tourism wholesalers in Europe and other source countries, or agency middlemen in Kathmandu.Nepal’s tourism has been sustained thus far by crumbs that find their way to rural areas. Which is why despite increasing trekking numbers, with some notable exceptions, there has not been significant impact on reducing out-migration from rural areas. In some cases, tourism has even driven up prices, making basic items unaffordable to locals.Tourism netted Nepal $700 million in 2019, making up 8% equivalent of the country’s GDP. There were over 1 million Nepalis employed directly in the hospitality industry, trekking and mountaineering, with many more benefiting indirectly from arrivals.But never has Nepal’s tourism sector suffered as badly as during this pandemic. Only 230,000 tourists came to Nepal in 2020— lower than during the worst years of the conflict, and less than during the Earthquake-Blockade of 2015. (See chart)Ironically, <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/instability-to-cost-nepal-dear-in-2021/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nepal’s foreign exchange reserves in 2020 </a>hit a record-breaking $12billion despite the pandemic. This was because products needed by the tourism industry and <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/nepal-lockdown-proves-air-quality-can-be-improved/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">petroleum products went down drastically</a>.<a style="background-color: #ffffff; font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 0.01em;" href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/nepal-tourism-may-take-5-years-to-recover/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tourism has hit rock bottom</a>, and there is nowhere to go but up. The question is do we keep on chasing visitor arrival numbers and tally annual hard currency income, or shall we try to redirect the focus to equity and spreading the benefits of tourism?<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/editorial/the-nepal-brand/">Visit Nepal 2020</a> tried to attract 2 million tourists last year, but with the pandemic the campaign was dead in the water. We might have hit the target for visitors had it not been mediocre and ad hoc planning. There was a lack of preparation in the main markets.Nothing had been done to improve the squalour and pollution of Kathmandu and the lack of amenities along the main tourist corridors that had spread a negative image of Nepal through travel blogs. Even Nepal’s once-pristine countryside is now mauled by <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/new-high-way-to-dolpo/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">messy road-building</a> which have wrecked scenic trekking routes.Interestingly, despite everything we have done to dissuade tourists from visiting Nepal with the decrepitude of Kathmandu and an inhospitable state, the <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/regular-columns/guest-editorial/a-solid-tourism-brand-for-nepal,845">country is still a big draw.</a>The Covid-19 crisis has provided us breathing space. It gave us time to take stock of things, and set things right. The most immediate lesson is to refocus on Nepal’s nature as travelers in the post-pandemic era plan trips to pristine and tranquil areas in search of healing and rejuvenation.This means building comfortable homestays instead of view towers, <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/everest-trail-repaired-during-pandemic/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">keeping trails clean and safe</a> instead of laying concrete steps, and making visa, arrival, local logistics as convenient and smooth as possible. Tourists are not all looking for rock-bottom prices, they want value for money. And despite everything we have done to it, Nepal is still a premium brand.The prediction of post-pandemic travel is that people will avoid long-distance flights. Our promotion must therefore be redirected to the immediate neighbourhood, as well as domestic and diaspora tourists. Visitors will want assurances of health and safety, and will be willing to pay premium rates for the diverse attractions Nepal has to offer.

Survive, revive, thrive

<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181140/636be6589c7e80680e08779ejpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="1000"/><figcaption>All photos: MONIKA DEUPALA</figcaption></figure>Kathmandu’s tourist neighbourhood of Thamel has been a ghost town for most of 2020, but <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/pokhara-tourism-lifted-by-nepali-footfalls/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">just like Pokhara</a> and Chitwan it is now bustling with Nepalis who are going out with a vengeance.Cooped up at home for the best part of the year, and despite a surge in coronavirus cases in Kathmandu Valley, young Nepalis are thronging to nightclubs and resto-bars in Thamel and Darbar Marg.Public health experts have warned that the nightspots could become coronavirus hotspots, but that does not seem to deter Nepalis determined to have a good time.After Pokhara, Thamel, <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/nepal-by-night/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kathmandu’s prime nightlife</a> destination and popular pre-base camp for trekkers and mountaineers is now opening up to local visitors as they await international tourists to return.Streets in Thamel, Pokhara’s lakeside and Sauraha that for months were <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/survive-2020-revive-in-2021-and-thrive-in-2022/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">deserted</a> had started filling up again with rowdy revellers since Dasain, and the footfalls have been increasing ever since.Taxis and rickshaws are once more waiting for passengers, souvenir shops are crowded with Nepalis, and bars are thrumming with live rock music.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181140/636be65c9c7e80680e08779fjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="1000"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181140/636be65f9c7e80680e0877a0jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="1000"><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181140/636be6639c7e80680e0877a1jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="1000"><figcaption></figcaption></figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181140/636be6669c7e80680e0877a2jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="1000"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181140/636be6699c7e80680e0877a3jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="1000"><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181140/636be66d9c7e80680e0877a4jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="1000"><figcaption></figcaption></figure>Low air fares have also made it possible for young people to visit Pokhara, people from Biratnagar and Dharan to visit Kathmandu, and the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/everest-trail-reopens-but-cautiously/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">trekking trails in the mountains are full of Nepali hikers</a>.Most bars and pubs in Thamel are now open for business, catering to Nepali customers from 7 to 9:30PM every night. Bartenders and waiters with face visors, masks and gloves is a common site.But although maintaining social distance is a norm, some of the nightspots were filled to the rafters on Friday night with youngsters on the dance floor.In its first Friday after reopening, the popular bar in the heart of Thamel LOD (Lord of the Drinks) was brimming with youth enjoying a night out following nine months of imposed lockdowns and restrictions to contain the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/when-will-nepals-covid-vaccine-turn-come/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">spread of Covid-19</a>.But even as nightlife and small business are on track, <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/why-nepals-covid-19-figures-are-deceptive/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kathmandu is still on the grips of coronavirus crisis</a>. While much fewer daily new infections (mostly owing to reduced tests and no official contact tracing), the capital city with Lalitpur and Bhaktapur districts still make up for over 50% of all new positives with close to 8,000 active cases.Says CEO of LOD Rabin Shrestha:“We make sure all customers have normal body temperatures and once in, people are not allowed on the dance floor. And despite our occupancy of 2000+, we are letting in less than 200 at a time.”<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181140/636be6709c7e80680e0877a5jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="1000"><figcaption></figcaption></figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181140/636be6749c7e80680e0877a6jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="1000"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181140/636be6779c7e80680e0877a7jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="1000"><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181140/636be67a9c7e80680e0877a8jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="1000"><figcaption></figcaption></figure>Towards the end of 2019 and in the beginning of 2020, many new businesses catering to tourists had opened up in Thamel with high hopes of turnout as the country was gearing up <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/nepal-tourism-may-take-5-years-to-recover/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Visit Nepal Year 2020</a>.But following first few months of lockdown, hundreds of businesses shutdown unable to pay rents, which ranged from Rs50,000 to half a million depending on the space. Soon, Thamel, which thrives on international tourists, was on the brink of collapse.Many small businesses were eventually granted 50% discount on their rents and utility bills. But with no international visitors on sight, shopkeepers and businesses have set their targets on local consumers to make up for the loss by adjusting their services more suited to Nepalis and with special discounts and packages.

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Covid fatigue drives Nepalis to nightspots

<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181112/636bdf879c7e80680e083da6jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2520" height="1680"/><figcaption>All photos: MONIKA DEUPALA</figcaption></figure>For the past eight months <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/survive-2020-revive-in-2021-and-thrive-in-2022/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Pokhara’s lakeside has been a ghost town</a>. But with Dasain, it has seen a partial revival with Nepalis flocking to the town for getaways after months of lockdown.Colourful boats that had been floating forlornly on the shores of Phewa Lake are now being rented out again as tourists from Kathmandu, Chitwan and other parts of Nepal descend on Pokhara. Lakeside bars and restaurants that used to hum with a wide variety of international languages being spoken, are now dominated by Nepali speakers.Nepali visitors are up paragliding off Sarangkot, some make a bee line for the zip line, and others are trekking up to catch the early morning glimpse of Machhapuchhre.Domestic flights from Kathmandu to Pokhara this week were packed to the capacity with passengers asked to strictly follow Covid-19 protocols with masks and face shields. They do not require PCR reports, but have to fill out a health declaration.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181112/636bdf8a9c7e80680e083da7jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="4096" height="2730"><figcaption></figcaption></figure>Pokhara started opening up after the end of the nationwide lockdown on 21 June, but tourism had not really picked up until the festival last week. While there has been zero international visitors, hotels, restaurants and adventure sports operators are happily welcoming domestic tourists.“It was quiet for the last seven months and without tourists there was no earning,” said Chandra Kumari BK, a boatsman on Phewa for the past 11 years, who has been out of a job since March. “It was some of the most difficult times, but I’m glad visitors are back now.”The boating committee in Pokhara has been helping out BK’s family and others like her, who are fully dependent on renting their boats for income, with daily essentials.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181112/636bdf8d9c7e80680e083da8jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2263" height="1509"><figcaption></figcaption></figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181112/636bdf909c7e80680e083da9jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2451" height="1634"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181112/636bdf939c7e80680e083daajpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2520" height="1680"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181112/636bdf979c7e80680e083dabjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2520" height="1680"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181112/636bdf9a9c7e80680e083dacjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="4096" height="2730"><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181112/636bdf9e9c7e80680e083dadjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2405" height="1604"><figcaption></figcaption></figure>Most of the bigger hotels by the lake that used to cater to international tourists are still closed, and those which are open have slashed tariffs. And Nepalis are taking advantage of the bargain prices. For example, paragliding costs half as much as last year.There are Nepali tourists rowing boats, paragliding, kayaking, enjoying street foods and screaming on a Ferris wheel. Some are also fishing while others are simply laid back and spending their evening strolling by LakesideMany rent taxis to go up to Sarangkot to watch the sun rise over Mt Machapuchre and the Annapurnas. The cable car to the top is nearing completion.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181112/636bdfa19c7e80680e083daejpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2520" height="1680"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181112/636bdfa49c7e80680e083dafjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2310" height="1540"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181112/636bdfa79c7e80680e083db0jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2434" height="1556"><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181112/636bdfab9c7e80680e083db1jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2520" height="1680"><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181112/636bdfae9c7e80680e083db2jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2520" height="1680"><figcaption></figcaption></figure>Pokhara gets over one million tourists a year, including Nepalis. The city has been expanding rapidly with a few dozen new luxury hotels and resorts in recent years. In anticipation of a spurt in tourist arrivals, mainly from China, the government had been rushing to finish the construction of Pokhara International Airport. But it has been delayed, and many here do not expect foreign tourists to  be back till 2022.While foreigners can now travel to Nepal, they can only do so <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/nepals-baffling-ban-on-india-flights/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">if they want to go trekking or climb a Himalayan mountain</a>. Even those coming in for <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/everest-trail-reopens-but-cautiously/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">treks and climbs</a> must have extra $5,000 worth of insurance, and have to spend a week in hotel quarantine in Kathmandu before setting off for the wilderness. These additional hassles along with a continuing ban on flights from India is hurting <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/nepal-tourism-may-take-5-years-to-recover/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">the travel industry</a> as a whole and keeping even those foreign tourists keen on visiting Nepal away.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181112/636bdfb19c7e80680e083db3jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2520" height="1680"><figcaption></figcaption></figure><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181112/636bdfb49c7e80680e083db4jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2520" height="1680"><figcaption></figcaption></figure>However, for Pokhara's crisis-ridden local hotel owners, taxi drivers, boats people and others dependent on tourism, Nepali arrivals have at least partially compensated for the gap.

Pokhara tourism lifted by Nepali footfalls

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nvOL_MJ2KI&amp;feature=youtu.beFlying from <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/more-than-luck-in-lukla/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kathmandu to Lukla</a> today is almost like taking an international flight. Passengers need a negative RT PCR report not older than 72 hours, have to wear masks, visors and latex gloves on the 45-minute Twin Otter flight.  The <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/on-thin-ice-in-the-khumbu/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Khumbu Valley</a> below Mt Everest is so far coronavirus-free, and residents here want to keep it that way.Which is why they have enforced strict rules on outsiders. Since flights restarted on 17 September, Nepalis who had been cooped up for months by the lockdown are making up for the absence of <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/trekkers-welcome-in-nepal-but-conditions-apply/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">foreign trekkers</a>. Non-Nepali tourists are going to be allowed to fly to Kathmandu after 30 October, although many trek reservations have been cancelled. <img width="640" height="359" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109171152/636bdb179c7e80680e0802a3jpeg.jpg" alt=""/>Ang Jangmu Sherpa (pictured left) owns Rivendell Lodge in Debuche which has a stunning view of <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/nepal-china-re-measure-height-of-mt-everest/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Everest</a>, Lhotse and Ama Dablam. She is happy several groups of Nepalis arrived after the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/nepal-allows-royal-himalayan-expedition/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bahrain Royal Guard expedition</a> members came last month to acclimatise and train in the area. “It’s not just our Khumbu region where businesses are suffering. The entire world is affected by Covid,” she said. “We have invested a lot of money to build this place, and suddenly we are in the midst of this crisis.”Aside from the economic difficulties, Ang Jangmu is also worried about visitors bringing the coronavirus to the Khumbu. But she adds: “As long as people take precautions, get PCR tests, Nepalis are welcome and that would be good enough for now.”Records show nearly 60,000 visitors entered the Sagarmatha National Park last year, contributing more than Rs180 million in fees and permits. That does not include another levy charged by the municipality, and also what tourists spend on food, lodgings and paying porters.  <figure><img width="960" height="720" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109171152/636bdb199c7e80680e0802a4jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>The spring season had just started in March when the Covid-19 pandemic hit, the government cancelled all <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/hiking-in-the-himalaya-during-covid-19/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">trekking and mountaineering</a>, and tourists had to rush back to Kathmandu to catch flights out before Nepal went into lockdown on 24 March.There had been zero tourists since then. In September, Nepali trekkers started trickling in and the only foreign mountaineering expedition this autumn climbing Mt Manalsu in central Nepal had acclimatised on nearby Mt Lobuje last month. <figure><img width="640" height="480" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109171152/636bdb1b9c7e80680e0802a5jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>Many lodge-owners are happy that at least Nepali visitors are finally arriving in the Khumbu after a quiet spring and monsoon, and they see no reason why foreigners should be kept away, as long as they take health precautions. “Either the government should look after tourism-sector workers like us, or it should end restrictions on movements of tourists and allow them to travel to the Himalaya with necessary safety measures,” says mountain guide Dawa Nuru Sherpa (left) in the village of Pangboche. “Porters have no work, hotels are facing problems. We should welcome Nepalis, at least people like us can work and earn our living.”Dawa Nuru was happy that his sons and daughter could work for the Bahrain Royal Guard expedition team on Lobuje, and is glad to see several groups of Nepali trekkers have spent night here on their <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/too-many-mules-on-the-everest-trail/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">way to Everest Base Camp</a>.Nepali tourists are taking advantage of attractive packages offered by airlines, helicopter companies and lodges in the Khumbu. Tara Air, for example, is discounting roundtrip Kathmandu-Lukla flights with four days to Namche and back for only Rs14,000. <figure><img width="640" height="359" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109171152/636bdb1d9c7e80680e0802a6jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>“We wanted to use the opportunity to get to see Nepal," said Bishnu Parajuli from Butwal, who works in Abu Dhabi, and has been stuck in Nepal because of the lockdowns. "We followed all the travel safety protocols to visit Gokyo. It was worth every paisa we spent and every step we took. It was amazing and unforgettable.”Pasang Yangji Sherpa who runs Sherpa Guide Lodge in Phakding was happy to greet visitors after months. As 27 Nepalis arived from Lukla, she had a busy morning last week preparing food and rooms for them. Her neighbor Indra Maya Magar, also a lodge owner, came to help. Pasang Yangji said, “It’s a crisis time but now I’m happy to welcome Nepali tourists. We are following health guidelines, although sometimes in the kitchen or restaurant it is difficult." <figure><img width="640" height="480" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109171152/636bdb1f9c7e80680e0802a7jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>In Khumjung, lodge owner Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa, who has climbed <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/measuring-mt-everest-because-it-is-there/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Mt Everest</a> and Ama Dablam twice each, looks worried. Khumjung is slightly off the beaten track on the trail between Namche and Tengboche, and few villagers wear masks. Last week, he talked to visitors from two metres away, wore a mask, and encouraged them to use his sanitiser.“The PCR tests you do in Kathmandu may not be reliable because you move a lot after that test: you were in a plane, met people after that, you may have caught the virus along the way. We have also heard there are fake PCR reports,” he says. Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality in Namche, has set up health check posts along key trails that require PCR negative reports from all visitors. The municipality is trying to set up PCR testing facilities in Lukla and Namche, not just for trekkers, but also for the porters they hire who are mainly from further down the Valley in Okhaldhunga or Khotang. <figure><img width="640" height="480" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109171152/636bdb219c7e80680e0802a8jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>“We don’t have the right health infrastructure at present for PCR tests,” says Lhakpa Tsheri Sherpa of the municipality, “for the moment we have no choice but to rely on PCR reports from Kathmandu.”<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109171152/636bdb239c7e80680e0802a9jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="359">It is not just the tourist lodges that are suffering, Sagarmatha National Park also depends on revenue from trekker fees to finance its conservation work, and has been hurting from the loss of income.  The Park’s Chief Conservation Officer Bhumiraj Upadhyay (pictured left) has this piece of advice to <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/declare-a-health-emergency/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">prospective visitors over the Dasain holidays</a>:  “Please make sure that you get a proper PCR test before coming here. If you do so, you will know that you are safe and you will help people of Khumbu remain safe from the virus.”

Everest Trail reopens, but cautiously

<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109171140/636bd8bb9c7e80680e0801d8jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="1200"/><figcaption>Binod Gurung outside Yeti Hotel in Manang which has not seen a single guest since March.</figcaption></figure><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109171140/636bd8be9c7e80680e0801d9jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1200" height="1600"><figcaption>And empty trail in Manang on Thursday at a time when it used to be full of trekkers. Photos: BINOD GURUNG</figcaption></figure>Although the Nepal government is allowing foreign trekkers to fly to Kathmandu from 17 October, some mountain districts along the trekking trails are sealing themselves off for fear it will bring in Covid-19 infections.Manang and Mustang districts on the Annapurna Circuit have announced restrictions for outsiders, which may also affect many Nepalis planning to head out to the mountains for the Dasain Holidays after months of lockdown.<a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/nation/Manang-will-prosper-from-its-new-road,2749">Manang</a> has decided to seal itself off completely, and will only allow Nepali and foreign trekkers if they have PCR negative tests, and the district has made it mandatory for them to spent two weeks in quarantine at Nishang.“We decided that since there were only a few weeks left in the autumn trekking season anyway, there was no point opening ourselves up to the risk of bringing in the virus,” said Binod Gurung, Chair of the Tourism Entrepreneurs Association of Manang, and owner of Hotel Yeti.At a stakeholder’s meeting in Manang last week, some lodge owners had hoped that Nepali hikers could salvage what has been a ruinous year for trekking in the region, but a majority felt it was not worth the risk. The meeting decided to open up Manang only in March 2021.This time of year, there would be up to <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=4995#.X3WV9MIzaUk">700 trekkers in Manang</a> every day, acclimatising before they went climbed on to Tilicho Lake or crossed the <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/page/annapurnas-avalanche-and-blizzard-early-weather-warning-systems">Thorung La</a> to adjoining Mustang district.In Mustang itself, there was also a meeting this week between district administration,  municipality office bearers as well as local lodge owners which recommended PCR tests for outsiders coming into the district, however there is confusion about the guidelines.“In the absence of public health experts, the local government has not been able to balance the need to revive tourism with the health risks,” explains Tripple Gurung of Om’s Home in Jomsom. “We are being flooded with inquiries for reservations, but for the moment we cannot take bookings, we just have a wait-and-see approach.”Gurung hopes that the protocols will be made clearer so that Mustang can at least see some foreign and Nepali visitors for the remainder of the year. The shrine at Muktinath remains closed as per the order of the federal government putting all religious sites out of bounds for now. For the past few months, Mustang has been cut off not just because of the lockdown, but also a massive landslide at Rupse and flight cancellations during the monsoon.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109171140/636bd8c29c7e80680e0801dajpeg.jpg" alt="" width="4032" height="3024"><figcaption>The Everest region is open for trekking, but visitors need PCR negative reports for their Lukla flights. Photo: NEPALI TIMES ARCHIVE/POOJA RIJAL</figcaption></figure>Over in the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/more-trekkers-more-trees/">Everest region</a>, a meeting of hoteliers in the Khumbu had decided to restrict outsiders, but changed its mind and is now allowing foreigners and Nepali trekkers to land at Lukla as long as they have a RT PCR negative tests report not older than 72 hours for themselves and their guides and porters.“Many lodge owners are hoping that in the absence of foreign trekkers the loss of business will be somewhat compensated by Nepali hikers, some of whom have already started flying into Lukla,” says <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/saving-gokyo-from-itself/">conservationist Ang Rita Sherpa</a>. “The lodges are mostly open in Lukla, Namche, Tengboche and Pheriche, but not those near the high passes.”Solu Khumbu district in the Everest region has reported 13 cases of Covid-19 so far, and there is only one active case there at the moment. Manang had four confirmed cases, and Mustang had one – neither district now has any active cases.The Annapurna region received 70,000 trekkers last year, while another 50,000 went to the Everest trail. Trekking and mountaineering were closed in March as Nepal went into lockdown and tourists hurried to Kathmandu to catch the last flights out.Trekker traffic had just started picking up in Langtang Valley after the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/the-reincarnation-of-a-holy-valley/">earthquake and avalanche in 2015</a>, with 15,000 visitors last year. But this year it is nearly zero. Many families which had taken large loans to rebuild their lodges are now deep in debt because there have been no trekkers since March.There have been 19 Covid-19 cases in Rasuwa district near the Chinese border, and none of them have been in Langtang Valley. Rasuwa now has only one active case.“The ward office had decided last week to keep Langtang Valley sealed to protect people from the pandemic, but locals have now decided to allow trekkers in so there is some income,” <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/the-story-of-langtang-cheese/">Gyalbu Tamang</a> at the Langtang Cheese Production Centre in Kyangjin told Nepali Times in a phone interview. “Even if foreigners do not come, we home domestic tourists will visit from Kathmandu.”

Hiking in the Himalaya during Covid-19?

<figure><img width="1274" height="843" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110915114/636bb4169c7e80680e07bb82jpeg.jpg" alt=""/><figcaption></figcaption></figure>Faced with criticism from migrant workers and Nepal’s embassies abroad for allowing only a limited daily quota of passengers to fly into Kathmandu, the government is letting airlines increase flights to meet passenger demand.Jobless Nepali workers stranded in Saudi Arabia for the past six months <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/nepalis-in-saudi-arabia-stage-protest/" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/nepalis-in-saudi-arabia-stage-protest/&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1599881394566000&amp;usg=AFQjCNHVzQfNtiXa129YrpqmIHNtsHrcJg">demonstrated this week in their camps</a> demanding that they be allowed home. The quota for repatriation flights had come under fire for being inadequate, impractical and driving up airfares by up to five times.“As long as passengers have PCR negative reports, airlines will be allowed to conduct any number of flights, but the passengers will have to stay for two weeks in home quarantine,” Tourism and Civil Aviation Minister Yogesh Bhattarai said in an interview on Thursday.On 1 September, the government had allowed 10 international airlines to restart limited regular flights as well as repatriation flights from the Gulf and Malaysia stipulating that only 500 passengers would be allowed daily because of physical separation requirements at the airport. It increased that number to <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/flights-to-nepal-limited-by-airport-capacity/" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/flights-to-nepal-limited-by-airport-capacity/&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1599881394566000&amp;usg=AFQjCNF0MjYgBmo206-6-6xETJ2KJm0rOg">800 this week. </a>Bhattarai said the daily quota for arriving passengers would now be raised up to 3,000.However, only Nepali passengers and representatives of embassies and international agencies and their families are allowed to fly to Kathmandu for the time being. No tourists are allowed, and there is still no decision on flights to and from Indian cities, where thousands of Nepalis are stranded, even though people can cross the land border from India.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IlIxeirVfycMinister Bhattarai also did not explain why passengers arriving with PCR negative reports still had to spend six hours or more at holding centres in Kathmandu before being allowed to go home for self-isolation. 
Some 80,000 Nepali workers have flown back from the Gulf and Malaysia since <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/after-10-weeks-first-overseas-nepalis-repatriated/" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/after-10-weeks-first-overseas-nepalis-repatriated/&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1599881394567000&amp;usg=AFQjCNEbXMiJZvQPYeNjvRSvmCKvD2Ad8g">repatriation flights began in mid-June</a>, but there are still about 100,000 workers waiting to return. Nepali workers who were on vacation when the lockdown went into effect are also waiting to fly out.  
In addition, there are also Nepalis in Europe, North America, Australia and Japan who are waiting for cheaper flights back.
The move follows heavy criticism that the government was not allowing <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/to-many-stranded-nepalis-not-enough-flights/" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/to-many-stranded-nepalis-not-enough-flights/&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1599881394567000&amp;usg=AFQjCNGxrvrn8yga9TIHSOMFf4gArqrd7w">repatriation flights</a> even for Nepali workers whose employers were paying for fares, and for governments like the UAE and Kuwait which have offered to fly back Nepalis for free.
The government is also getting the Labour Ministry and embassies to strengthen coordination and expedite the repatriation of stranded workers who need support for their return using the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/brokers-going-for-broke/" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/brokers-going-for-broke/&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1599881394567000&amp;usg=AFQjCNG7BGm87RU8uNuImfZSqxXgW0wifw">Foreign Employment Welfare Fund.</a>
Minister Bhattarai told a webinar organised by the Society of Economic Journalists of Nepal (SEJON) that the government was preparing to allow domestic flights from 1 October. The government has twice postponed the resumption of domestic flights after a surge in Covid-19 cases since mid-June.
Bhattarai also said the government was trying to promote domestic tourism to compensate for the lack of tourist arrivals. The government was thinking of announcing two-day weekends so Nepalis are encouraged to travel within the country, he added.