It is currently summit week on Everest, with strong pre-monsoon storms lashing the world’s highest mountain. Climbers and their Nepali guides alike are making their way up the mountain in the hundreds.&nbsp; Although there have not been traffic jams seen in previous years, there could still be bottlenecks on the southeast ridge on weather windows on the last week of climbing in May. And now there is a cyclone heading towards the Bay of Bengal right before the end of the spring season. There have been some first ascents, ultramarathons, rescues and even wingsuit dives planned off Lhotse.&nbsp; “When summits happen is absolutely dependent on the weather windows,” explains Khim Lal Gautam, Chief Survey Officer at Everest Base Camp, who has summited the mountain twice. &nbsp; Spring 2024 has seen fewer summits on Everest than previous years, but there have been some notable alpine style climbs on other Himalayan peaks with no bottled oxygen or Sherpa support. Even as the climbing season draws to a close, came word that Apple’s Tenzing Norgay biopic is set to star Willem Dafoe as John Hunt and Tom Hiddleston as Edmund Hillary. Tenzing’s character has yet to be cast.&nbsp; China has opened its side of the peak for the first time since 2021, although it has kept Cho Oyu and Shishapangma closed. In comparison to Nepal side, the northeast ridge on Everest is usually less crowded, is open till mid-June and attracting ‘flash’ teams who go on very short expeditions of three-six weeks. Such expeditions require members to acclimatise at home in tents that simulate low oxygen conditions. &nbsp; The crowded south side route has some higher-end expeditions, willing to bear the cost of extra days at base camp to wait for traffic to clear up. Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/news/mt-everest-pvt-ltd">Mt Everest (Pvt) Ltd</a>, Vishad Onta Preliminary permit data showed that the number of expeditions was much lower than in 2023, but the total has climbed to 414, with about 300 climbers and Sherpas having summited so far. Bhutan also put its first climber on the top of Everest. The 2023 season saw 18 fatalities -- a record. This season started out safer, but is slowly turning out quite deadly. There have been three deaths so far and four more are missing.&nbsp; Two Mongolians climbing without guides or oxygen died after summiting last week, and a Romanian climber died at Camp 3 on Tuesday. A British national and a high altitude guide were swept away onto the Kangshung Face when a section of ice near the Hillary Step fell away on Wednesday. A Kenyan national attempting a no-oxygen summit and his Sherpa guide have gone missing close to the summit, also on 22 May.&nbsp; Video footage retrieved from the phones of the Mongolian pair showed that they did in fact reach the top, although it does seem that they did end up having to use bottled oxygen. &nbsp;Their families, devastated at the news, are waiting in Kathmandu. Many Mongolians, however, have celebrated the pair for having accomplished what they set out to do. “Most likely what happened with the Mongolian climbers was that they ran out of oxygen on the descent,” said Alan Arnette, who has been covering Everest since 2004. “The Romanian death is, sadly, one of those expected that happen every season because of the harsh conditions and exertion.”&nbsp; Their story brings to mind the Mallory-Irvine expeditions exactly 100 years ago on the northeast ridge of Everest. They were last seen alive only 240m below the summit, Mallory’s body was located only in 1999 but there is no evidence that they reached the top.&nbsp; Besides the two Mongolians, others have also done no-oxygen climbs. Sirbaz Khan, from Pakistan, is collaborating with the Imagine Nepal team to complete his 11th no-oxygen 8000er. Piotr Krzyzowksi from Poland climbed Lhotse without oxygen, as did Hugo Ayaviri from Bolivia. Ayaviri also climbed without guide support and was thinking about doing Everest too. Currently, he has returned to Base Camp, slightly frostbitten. Jigme Pelden Dorje became Bhutan’s first Everest summiteer this week. &nbsp;Bhutan was the only Himalayan country without someone who had reached the top. Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/everest-70-years-on">Everest 70 years on</a>, Lisa Choegyal  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20240525020552_81963cf18eade4bfdf2e4bb75a9d0008c07b1d06c0ddbd6e5d885afdbb65db30.jpg" data-media-id="editor_2" data-image-id="20240525020552_81963cf18eade4bfdf2e4bb75a9d0008c07b1d06c0ddbd6e5d885afdbb65db30" data-rendition-name="original" width="1248" height="1397" loading="lazy" alt="Alpine style "> <figcaption>Everest from the South summit</figcaption> </figure>  There have been several individuals with multiple ascents this season, which is nothing new for the Sherpas but novel to climbers.&nbsp; Kami Rita Sherpa reached the top twice, beating his own record to notch up 30 summits – a record. Dawa Funzok Sherpa is attempting a fourth summit for the season, and photojournalist Purnima Shrestha is going for her third. Ukrainian guide Valentyn Sypavin scaled Everest twice, then climbed Lhotse, and now plans to do Everest again. “I don’t know if I would want to depend on a guide going on their fourth ascent,” said Arnette, “It is extremely draining to summit.” Questions have been raised as to whether one permit should allow for multiple summits. The government’s stance seems to recognise the first climb and deem the others unofficial, but not illegal. &nbsp; However, with Sherpa to client ratios growing, overcrowding is already an issue on the routes to the summit, especially from Camp 3 and up during the narrow weather windows. This trend could jeopardise the safety of other climbers, especially those on no-oxygen climbs. &nbsp; Nims Purja, the star of ‘14 Peaks’, has faced accusations of taking clients with cheaper Lingtren permits to Camp 3 on Everest, and of faking a rescue to take a chopper to Camp 2 from Kathmandu via Lukla. Earlier, Purja mounted an expedition to Shishapangma with a special permit from the Chinese to recover the bodies of team members who died in an avalanche on the 8,000m peak last autumn. The rescue team cut new routes to retrieve the bodies of American Anna Gutu and Mingmar Sherpa.&nbsp; Purja, an ex-British Special Forces member famed for climbing all 14 8000ers in six months and six days, called the recovery mission one of his most challenging climbs.&nbsp; Gutu had been competing with Gina Marie Rzucidlo, accompanied by Tenjen Sherpa--both of whom were also killed in an avalanche half an hour earlier. Both trying to be the first American women to complete all 14 8000ers and were on their last mountain. The competition led them to push for the summit too soon after a snowfall, when the snow isn’t bonded yet and avalanche danger is high.&nbsp; Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/nepal-pushes-mountain-bike-tourism">Nepal pushes mountain bike tourism</a>, Vishad Onta <h2>Alpine Style</h2> In addition to non-oxygen summits, there have been other unique, trailblazing ascents. A Korean-Nepali team summited the unclimbed 6,591m Jugal I. The cluster of mountains around Jugal, located 35km north of Kathmandu were only opened to climbers last year. The group is now planning to climb Jugal II. Americans Patrick Johnson and Patrick Gephart climbed a new route on the Northeast Pillar of 6,487m Tengkangpoche in Rolwaling Himal on 23 April. Climbing strictly alpine style, the pair rated the climb a WI3+, a Water Ice climbing grade given to climbs with a near vertical gradient but good places to rest and place screws. Late last year, Tim Miller from Scotland and Paul Ramsden from the UK had completed a first ascent of Surma-Sarovar in Bajhang, having planned the summit with no more than images from Google Earth. It was an eight day climb, with four of the days dedicated to climbing the 2,100m north face. In Spring 2022, the same duo also were the first to ascent Jugal Spire alpine style, a feat for which they earned the highest honour in mountaineering, the Piolet d’Or. <h2>Other Adventures &nbsp;</h2>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20240525020548_e610e99ceaeb385bcd6a306eef6d21ed230562845afb17d559f05fd185b12e66.jpg" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="20240525020548_e610e99ceaeb385bcd6a306eef6d21ed230562845afb17d559f05fd185b12e66" data-rendition-name="original" width="1750" height="1750" loading="lazy" alt="Other Adventures on Everest NT"> <figcaption>Photo: FLEURY ROX</figcaption> </figure>  Besides climbing, there has also been some running. The Great Himal Race, a west-to-east marathon along the Great Himalayan Trail, is on Stage 42 out of 51. The runners are currently in Sagarmatha National Park at Chheplung, and are scheduled to finish at Kanchenjunga Base Camp on 31 May. A separate race, the Everest 135, was also held in early May. It is a gruelling 135-mile race that starts at Jiri and ends at Everest Base Camp.&nbsp; British alpinist and BASE jumper Tim Howell was attempting a wingsuit jump from Lhotse, which would be a record for the highest jump of its type. Howell and his team had been climbing new routes on Lhotse in order to find ideal launch and exit sites. Howell reached an unclimbed point on the Lhotse Ridge 8,200m high where he was to jump from, but he had to cancel as cloudy weather persisted. “Climate change is having a large impact on Everest, especially on the Khumbu Ice Fall. I see a point in time where climbers are forced to take the north route or helicopter rides to Camp 2 become a routine part of the expedition,” said Arnette. Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/hurtling-through-the-himalaya">Hurtling through the Himalaya</a>, Vishad Onta

Vishad Raj Onta

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Peak season in the Nepal Himalaya

Just as the winter off-season begins, the pristine beauty of the <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/nepal-s-other-attraction-the-night-sky">Gokyo</a> trek is even more apparent because of the absence of crowds. But there is also another absence: of ice and snow.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2023121603120_1f2b8c6351ec9473789a76ebb3d4e8cb13d0eb6d1bd6a0bd6dfaae2b464ab29c.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="2023121603120_1f2b8c6351ec9473789a76ebb3d4e8cb13d0eb6d1bd6a0bd6dfaae2b464ab29c" data-rendition-name="original" width="1500" height="1000" loading="lazy" alt="Go Gokyo"> <figcaption>1. The view from Gokyo Ri (5,357m) looking north towards Mt Cho Oyu (8,188m, partly hidden) and Mt Ghyachung Kang (7,952m) at sunset. </figcaption> </figure>  Gokyo is always less crowded than the Everest Base Camp Trail, but it is completely deserted in winter. A trek last week that coincided with the <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/editorial/unabated-greenwashing-at-cop28">COP28 Climate Summit in Dubai </a>was also a stark reminder of what the inability of world economies to completely and immediately phase out fossil fuels is doing to the Himalaya. Read also: <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=15649">Winter Wonderland</a>, by Katy Elliott  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2023121603120_52ba7329a12c405e93c17a01b123af514b11958b326ac687f1220843b6e1c542.png" data-media-id="editor_4" data-image-id="2023121603120_52ba7329a12c405e93c17a01b123af514b11958b326ac687f1220843b6e1c542" data-rendition-name="original" width="862" height="676" loading="lazy" alt="Go Gokyo"> </figure>  Often overlooked due to the popularity of the Everest trek, the Gokyo trail deserves a status beyond a hidden gem. Following a flight to <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/more-than-luck-in-lukla">Lukla</a>, trekkers can witness the diverse beauty of the Khumbu region in this 11-day trek. The route takes visitors across the famed ‘Hillary Bridge’, through the town of Namche, past roadside shrines, the shores of the five picturesque Gokyo lakes, and finally the peak of Gokyo Ri (5,357m) from where an almost absurdly cinematic panorama of Cho Oyu, Ghyachung Kang and Everest glow in the orange light of a setting sun.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2023121603124_9f0509eda7b017f5c91f2af62098c07b946551239e5e5c3b7290c5022993fc64.jpg" data-media-id="editor_6" data-image-id="2023121603124_9f0509eda7b017f5c91f2af62098c07b946551239e5e5c3b7290c5022993fc64" data-rendition-name="original" width="1500" height="1000" loading="lazy" alt="Go Gokyo"> <figcaption>2. Mt Kangtega (6,782m) and Mt Thamserku (6,608m) looking south from the moraine of the Ngzumba Glacier in Gokyo. </figcaption> </figure>  Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/if-the-ice-is-gone-we-are-done">"If the ice is gone, we are done"</a> by Nepali Times At 5,000m the five Gokyo Lakes are the world’s highest freshwater lake system and are considered sacred by both Hindus and Buddhists alike with the waters believed to be the residence of Naag Devata, the Serpent God. The lakes are astride the <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/global-heating-melts-mountains">Ngozumba Glacier</a>, Nepal’s longest, which has receded and shrunk dramatically in the past 25 years due to global warming.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2023121603124_18c30d4ff4fa38627610cbb69357ae6209c3ac89decbc42e65f3eabcf32621ce.jpg" data-media-id="editor_9" data-image-id="2023121603124_18c30d4ff4fa38627610cbb69357ae6209c3ac89decbc42e65f3eabcf32621ce" data-rendition-name="original" width="600" height="900" loading="lazy" alt="Go Gokyo"> <figcaption>3. Namche Bazar, the gateway to the Upper Khumbu and Gokyo is nestled in an amphitheater below Mt Thamserku.</figcaption> </figure>  Like other glaciers in the Himalaya, Ngozumba is now debris-covered as it thaws, and dotted with ice caverns and ponds. The Himalaya is dubbed the ‘Third Pole’ because it has the third largest storage of water as ice after the polar regions. But at present rates of temperature increase, climate scientists say these mountains will lose two-thirds of their remaining ice during this century.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2023121603128_a333e27e26ba44b5745195bec07f88440e7e09bcff71b1efe6b651e8729ad33b.jpg" data-media-id="editor_10" data-image-id="2023121603128_a333e27e26ba44b5745195bec07f88440e7e09bcff71b1efe6b651e8729ad33b" data-rendition-name="original" width="600" height="900" loading="lazy" alt="Go Gokyo"> <figcaption>4. Hotels have sprouted on the shores of Gokyo's main lake, replacing the yak herder's summer huts. This is one of the highest settlements in the world, occupied for two-thirds of the year with residents moving to lower villages during the winter off-season. Mt Taboche (6000m) and Mt Cholatse (6440m) loom over the glacier. </figcaption> </figure>  &nbsp;Over two billion people across Asia are dependent on the Himalaya and Tibetan Plateau for water that flow down rivers that originate here. The tangible impact of the climate emergency is readily apparent all along the Gokyo trek, not just in the melting of the permanent ice, but also the lack of precipitation.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20231215151216_83417ded1111fd19aaa2b321625681fedd3a1c7aa47f28c44444a343d691e3d2.jpg" data-media-id="editor_11" data-image-id="20231215151216_83417ded1111fd19aaa2b321625681fedd3a1c7aa47f28c44444a343d691e3d2" data-rendition-name="original" width="1500" height="1000" loading="lazy" alt="Go Gokyo"> <figcaption>5. The last light of the day highlighting Mt Everest, Nuptse and Lhotse 20km away, captured from the Gokyo Ri last week. </figcaption> </figure>

Go Gokyo

Mt <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/on-everest-4-years-after-the-nepal-earthquake">Everest Base Camp (EBC) </a>will have a record number of international expeditions this year, turning it into a global village. But with this comes the problem of waste disposal on the glacier. Some 500 climbers are <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/peak-tourism-in-2023-9ukoi8iz">attempting to scale</a> Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse this season, and there will be four times as many support staff and high altitude guides living, eating, resting and going to the toilet in a tent-city stretching 1km along the Khumbu Glacier. Before the climbers reach base camp, supplies — food, climbing gear, oxygen cylinders, ropes and more will already have been transported from Kathmandu by helicopter. Porters, chauri and jopke carry additional supplies.&nbsp; But when they return from the mountain, whatever they used during the climb will likely be left behind, adding to the 140 tonnes of garbage that is estimated to have accumulated on Mt Everest in the seven decades since it was first climbed &nbsp;in 1953.&nbsp; The Tourism Industry Service Delivery Directives 2013 stipulates that tourism operators and climbers return with the equipment they used during their expedition, including oxygen cylinders, regulators, tents, plastic, as well as faeces. Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/news/chopper-vs-chauri-below-everest">Chopper vs Chauri below Everest</a>, Bhadra Sharma  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230423140416_4f6caeead31515db882a618877bfdc3904209607c4cb2340fe735e3299c84b5b.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="20230423140416_4f6caeead31515db882a618877bfdc3904209607c4cb2340fe735e3299c84b5b" data-rendition-name="original" width="800" height="423" loading="lazy" alt="EBC cleanup NT 1"> <figcaption>Photos: NEPAL ARMY</figcaption> </figure>  Each climber is also required to bring down 8kg of waste at the end of expeditions. If climbers fail to follow the rules, expeditions stand to lose a $4,000 deposit made before the expedition. However, the legal systems in place have been ineffective due to negligible monitoring at base camp. Most expedition liaison officers have no knowledge or understanding of mountaineering and many do not even stay at base camp. &nbsp; The liaison officers are paid by expeditions themselves and could not be bothered about checking if the expeditions evacuated their waste. &nbsp; Which is why the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/editorial/defence-mechanism">Nepal Army</a> had to step in with its 'Safa Himal Abhiyan' to clean up Everest four years ago, deploying 10% of its soldiers assigned to guard the Sagarmatha National Park to clean up the mountain. &nbsp; The army gets funding from the government, non-governmental organisations as well as the private sector, and has been mobilising Sherpas and high altitude guides in mountain cleaning efforts.&nbsp; Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/mt-everest-city">Mt Everest City</a>, Monika Deupala  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230423140416_208b1556480038ce12e2b6c2ecd780308bcfe14451cc7aa0b3b1657c82ae63b5.jpg" data-media-id="editor_6" data-image-id="20230423140416_208b1556480038ce12e2b6c2ecd780308bcfe14451cc7aa0b3b1657c82ae63b5" data-rendition-name="original" width="1200" height="800" loading="lazy" alt="EBC cleanup NT 2"> </figure>  Soldiers go through a month-long garbage collection training in the high Himalaya. Once the trash is collected, responsibility for the biodegradable waste is assigned to local communities, while non-biodegradable rubbish is flown to Kathmandu by helicopter. The military has collected 76 tonnes of garbage from Mt Everest, Lhotse, Pumori, Ama Dablam, Makalu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu and Kanchenjunga. This year, the target is to bring down another 35 tonnes. The Army is also conducting awareness to reduce the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/news/nepal-s-citizen-scientists-track-climate-change">impact of climate change</a> on Mt Everest and surrounding peaks that are part of the World Heritage Site. But there are questions as to whether the military’s involvement is enough to clean up the Himalaya. “Cleaning the mountains has encouraged the involvement of local mountain communities,” said Nepal Army Chief Prabhu Ram Sharma during a program recently. “But this campaign is not just an issue of importance to one particular community — it should be a national &nbsp;priority.”&nbsp; Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/news/expedition-brings-down-11-tons-of-mt-everest-trash">Expedition brings down 11 tons of Mt Everest trash</a>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230423140416_d87b48eb9fd781682e96672a9d5c6439cd1dedcae80283789f079f25f491d44a.jpg" data-media-id="editor_9" data-image-id="20230423140416_d87b48eb9fd781682e96672a9d5c6439cd1dedcae80283789f079f25f491d44a" data-rendition-name="original" width="1200" height="800" loading="lazy" alt="EBC cleanup NT 3"> </figure>  More than 300 climbers have lost their lives on Mt Everest, many in the death zone above 8,000m. And while the bodies of most have been buried under the ice for decades, increasing global temperature has meant that the bodies of deep frozen climbers are now exposed. Avalanches increasingly bring human remains down the Khumbu Icefall. &nbsp; The Nepal Army retrieved four bodies from high up on Mt Everest in 2019 and there are plans to recover more remains this year. "But the higher along the mountain a climber dies, the more difficult it is to bring them down to base camp," says Khimlal Gautam, who has summited Everest twice, and is the Chief Survey Officer of the government.&nbsp; He adds: “Moreover, recovery efforts are expensive and dangerous as rescuers risk their own lives during the process which is why many bodies from the South Col have not been brought down yet.” Waste management has been a challenge also on <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/annapurna-dhaulagiri-double-take">other mountains</a> which are becoming popular like Manaslu, Annapurna and Kangchenjunga. &nbsp; Gautam, who has been to EBC every year since 2011 to see the impact of climate change says that increasing human activity on Everest and surrounding areas have posed challenges to sustainable waste management. He proposes restrictions to entry for non-climbers on EBC, saying, “Everest Base Camp is for mountaineers, so there is a need to regulate the movement of non-climbers in the area.” Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/if-the-ice-is-gone-we-are-done">“If the ice is gone, we are done”</a>  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20230423140416_90c4ecb1589b6cf0d627a4b0d7d698e3f101081314aad19eaed6ce9f6a5579a7.jpg" data-media-id="editor_12" data-image-id="20230423140416_90c4ecb1589b6cf0d627a4b0d7d698e3f101081314aad19eaed6ce9f6a5579a7" data-rendition-name="original" width="800" height="423" loading="lazy" alt="EBC cleanup NT 4"> </figure>  Meanwhile, locals point out that the government has taken funds and sponsorships to clean up the mountains from <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/so-far-so-good/the-season-of-summits">expeditions</a> and has failed in its duty.&nbsp; “Everest will never be pollution-free if helicopters continue to transport material directly to base camp,” says Mingma Chhiri Sherpa, chair of the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality. The municipality banned the use of plastic products but eased it during the Covid-19 pandemic. Sherpa says that waste management in the region needs a long-term strategy. &nbsp; Residents and the local government for their part say that they will manage the garbage along the trekking routes as long as the government takes the responsibility for trash at base camp and higher up. &nbsp; Says Sherpa: “Waste management will be an endless cycle of polluters continuing to litter, and cleaners continuing to pick up after them if garbage control is not coordinated from Lukla itself.” Read also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/letters-from-everest-base-camp-1-vfqcer0e">Letters from Everest Base Camp 1</a>&nbsp; Translated by Shristi Karki from the <a href="https://www.himalkhabar.com/news/135384?fbclid=IwAR3vVZ3EM5fimnPF0D8T2skZg7EpWanW5mDVJetaEvdASiZ3fuZseRrUoYQ&amp;mibextid=Zxz2cZ" target="_blank">Nepali original</a> published in <a href="http://himalkhabar.com/" target="_blank">himalkhabar.com</a>

Nepal can’t keep up with trash building up on Everest

<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114131124/637233919c7e80680e0c48ebjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1787" height="1334"/><figcaption>Climate change has been melting the ice even high on Mt Everest, exposing rock and making it more difficult to climb. Photo: DAMIEN FRANÇOIS / NEPALI TIMES ARCHIVE.</figcaption></figure>Climbing Mt Everest at 8,848.86m is on many people’s bucket list. Even just reaching Base Camp in northeastern Nepal, at 5,364m, is a difficult trek. But for Kami Rita Sherpa climbing Everest has been a routine for over two decades, sometimes twice or even three times a year.Born in Thame in a side valley of Khumbu district, he started working as a porter for trekking companies when he was just 12.Now 52, Kami Rita climbed Mount Everest for the first time in 1994 when he was just 24. This year, Kami Rita reached the summit for the 26th time, a new world record.On a sunny monsoon morning in July, he spoke to The Third Pole in a café in Kathmandu. The rainy season is when Mt Everest is closed for climbing, and Kami Rita had a bit of leisure time between the spring and autumn climbing seasons.The Nepal government <a href="https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-61828753">reportedly wants to move Everest Base Camp</a> to a lower elevation, because of risks associated with climate change. The Khumbu Glacier on which the camp is located is melting, with a river running through the ice. There is also a waste disposal problem in spring, with 1,500 climbers camped out for at least two months. But as Kami Rita explains, the plan is not supported by all. Excerpts of interview:<figure><figcaption>"Moving base camp will create chaos," says Kami Rita Sherpa. Photo: RAMESH BHUSHAL</figcaption></figure>What is your opinion about the government’s plan to move Everest Base Camp?There is no valid reason to move it. Do you think climate change has impacted just Base Camp? What about the other camps on the Everest route? Where will you shift them? If you say climate change has impacted Base Camp, then don’t you think the other camps have also become riskier due to rapid melting of the ice?Moving Base Camp will create chaos. The camps were established on the basis of the availability of a suitable and safe place, identified through experience and practicality. If you move Base Camp lower, say to the village of Gorak Shep at around 5,150m, then it will just be a stopover to the current base camp, as it’s nearly impossible to hike from the moved Base Camp to Camp I at 6,150m. And you can’t stay anywhere in between, as there isn’t any suitable spot except the current base camp. It will be just an added camp, not an alternative.But the government says it’s becoming more dangerous, and that the decision would create a safer environment for climbers and support staff.I don’t really think Base Camp has become unsafe or less safe. I think it’s the safest point to camp for preparation before heading up and there isn’t a place nearby that’s more suitable. If you move down a little, it’s even more dangerous. Currently, Base Camp is on the edge of the Khumbu Glacier, and moving it down a bit will take you near the foot of Pumori mountain. That’s the place where an avalanche occurred during the <a href="https://www.thethirdpole.net/en/livelihoods/over-750-killed-in-himalayan-earthquake/">2015 earthquake</a> and killed scores of climbers and Sherpas.If you move it further down to Gorak Shep where a flat area is available, which is over three kilometres to the south, then how would you provide water? There is no water source nearby and you must walk for an hour or so to get some water from the ice. Currently, Base Camp has meltwater from glaciers, and even when there is no meltwater, we can cut out the ice and melt it to drink. It would be nearly impossible to carry out expeditions at lower levels so far from glaciers unless there is a continuous supply of water. It’s about feeding over 1,500 people for over two months including climbers, porters and support staff, and we need a large amount of water every day.The Everest climbing route from Camp I to IV is on the Khumbu Glacier. Studies have shown that the <a href="https://www.thethirdpole.net/en/energy/almost-all-everest-glaciers-may-disappear-by-end-of-century/">glacier has been shrinking</a> due to rapid melting resulting from global warming. How has this affected climbing?Rapid melting exposes more of the rock face on mountains and it’s harder to climb rock than ice-covered terrain. It also increases the chances of rockfalls that could cause serious injury or even death. I have noticed more exposed rock, and the length of rock that has to be climbed has increased in the past two decades. Between Camp III and Camp IV, there used to be about 50m of rock when I started to climb Everest, but now it’s over 70m.Likewise, the Geneva Spur on the Lhotse Face at 7,300m has more rock as well. Between Camp IV and The Balcony near the summit, there is a vertical face that used to about 100m of rock to climb, but now it’s about 130m. The rock face on the Hillary Step is also taller than it used to be.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221114131124/637233959c7e80680e0c48ecjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1399" height="741"><figcaption></figcaption></figure>What other changes have you seen on Everest since you started climbing?There are lots of changes. I can say that the amount of ice on Everest is less than when I climbed for the first time in 1994. Ice is melting at a faster rate and this change is moving higher up, but the bigger problem is that the timings of rain and snow has become irregular. In 1994 and the following expeditions for some years, there would be no water at Base Camp at the beginning of climbing in late April. The Glacier was all ice. We used to crack the ice and then melt it to drink. But now there is a stream of water running through Base Camp, and there are melt pools even at Camp II. This year in April, we got water in Camp II. Now I feel like Camp II is the new Base Camp.If shifting Base Camp is not a good idea, what do you think the government should do to ensure that climbing Everest in Nepal is safe?I think if a decision is made to move Base Camp, more expeditions will just move over to the north side in China. It’s already expensive and challenging to climb Everest from the Nepal side. The Tibet side in China has a lot of facilities and it’s easier to climb from the northern side rather than the southern one. China has electricity and roads right up to the Base Camp on the Rongbuk Glacier. You can go up to 6,500m on yaks. Why would someone come to the Nepal side if you prolong their stay without reason by creating a longer route?Instead of moving Base Camp, the government could spend money on providing electricity at the camp, so that we can reduce the use of gas to cook food. [The use of gas canisters by climbing expeditions <a href="https://everestchronicle.com/base-camp-diary-how-climbing-everest-have-changed-over-time/">has been suggested</a> as a factor in the warming of the area.] One expedition uses three gas canisters per day, and there are about 50 expeditions a year. One expedition takes around two-and-a-half months from Kathmandu and back, and most of the stay will be in Base Camp. You can reduce the use of gas if you provide electricity.Secondly, the government can spend money on providing folding toilets to all expeditions so that we don’t have to carry them every time, and they can charge for the usage. They could invest in providing more reliable weather information and focus on clean-up campaigns [of rubbish left by climbers] along the trail up to the summit.Just doing things to make a news headline won’t solve any problem. There are many more things that could be done to create a safer climbing environment and save the mountains, but an easy fix, like moving Base Camp down, is just a waste of time.What is your message to the world, which has responded very slowly to reduce carbon dioxide emissions, causing snow and ice in the mountains to melt faster?The mountains are not just ours. It’s not just Sherpas who would be impacted, or Nepal that would lose revenue from tourism if the snow and ice melts. It’s the source of water for billions of people. It’s the heritage of the world. If it’s gone, we are done. I think the only way to keep our mountains white is to reduce emissions from factories, planes and vehicles.I remember the Dalai Lama saying that one day we will die because there won’t be water to drink. I feel like that will happen some day soon. I would urge the global community to think about it seriously and act immediately. I can’t do much as a climber, except inform people about the situation out there.I just want to say that the ice on the mountains is vanishing. That’s my information based on experience and it’s up to you to make a decision.This article first appeared on <a href="https://www.thethirdpole.net/en/climate/moving-everest-base-camp-a-ridiculous-decision-says-record-holder-climber/">The Third Pole</a>.

“If the ice is gone, we are done”

1921 Rendezvous:  Mallory, Pumori and Everest

<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221110161124/636d186a9c7e80680e0ac7c6jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1080" height="525"/><figcaption>All photos courtesy of PEMBA NORBU SHERPA</figcaption></figure>Till two years ago, Pemba Norbu Sherpa was a happy-go-lucky <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/where-have-all-the-guides-gone/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">trekking guide </a>from Phakding on the Everest Trail. Things were looking up, he was getting trekking clients to guide and would travel to Langtang, Annapurnas and <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/the-other-abc-trek/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">other trails in Nepal</a>.He made many international friends, and endeared himself with his joyful outlook on life. After a day’s hard trek, he would pitch tents, get the food ready, and the next morning would build a plump snowman. Pemba Norbu’s joie de vivre and humour were infectious.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221110161124/636d186d9c7e80680e0ac7c7jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="980" height="980">After the 2015 earthquake his trekking business had started to pick up again. He set up his business and had already saved up some money to build a new house for his elderly parents.All of that <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/virus-fear-closes-everest-treks-again/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">changed with the pandemic</a>. “Before the lockdown, I had a high-quality life,” he recalls. “And before that, I had a beautiful carefree childhood. Covid killed the business.”Some of Pemba Norbu’s childhood friends were infected, and he could not see them because of the lockdown and the need for physical distancing. A few of them and their families died.Not only was Pemba cut off from his friends and family, but the dream of a new house for his parents is also now a thing of the past. He lost his job, <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/livelihoods-matter-restart-trekking-in-nepal/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">cutting off his income completely</a>.  “Due to Covid, all my treks to Everest and Mustang in the past two years were cancelled,” Pemba explains.Before the pandemic, tourism was Nepal’s fourth-largest industry by employment, with over a million people directly dependent on it. While revenue from tourism contributes only 7% to the national GDP, here in the remote mountains of Nepal, entire villages depend on income from trekking and climbing expeditions.The <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/editorial/survive-revive-thrive/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">collapse of tourism</a> also had an indirect impact. Locals had no market any more for their produce like potatoes, vegetables and poultry products. Hotel staff, cleaners, cooks were all laid off. Guides and porters have had no work for two years.“I spent the second lockdown in the mountains and the people here don’t have a job or money or anything,” says Pemba. “One of my clients from France helped me financially to distribute rice and salt to the families in Phakding, but there was nothing else I could do to help my fellow villagers.”<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221110161124/636d186f9c7e80680e0ac7c8jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="225" height="462">Finally, there seems to be good news. New Covid infection cases and fatalities are falling across Nepal, and with the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/nepal-begins-covid-19-vaccination-drive/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">vaccination drive</a><a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/the-jabs-and-jabnots/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer"> </a>picking up, tourism is expected to pick up speed by next spring. Everyone has their fingers crossed that there will be no third wave.“We want to restart our business, but we also need to be vaccinated so that when we are with our clients we can work without any fear of infection,” says Pemba. “We are going through a lot, but we have always been neglected by the state and its incompetent leaders.”Indeed, although nearly 23% of Nepalis above 18 are now vaccinated, most of them in the cities and <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/the-jabs-and-jabnots/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">remote areas of the country have yet to get adequate doses</a>. As long as the vaccine is not distributed equitably, the threat of the virus, especially among local Sherpa guides who have to work closely with travellers will be at heightened risk.<img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221110161124/636d18729c7e80680e0ac7c9jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1080" height="810">Following <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/nepal-relaxes-entry-for-tourists/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Nepal’s revised immigration entry protocol</a>,  tourists can now get visas on arrival and those fully vaccinated against Covid with the second dose 14 days before the date of travel, will no longer have to quarantine after landing in Kathmandu. In addition to vaccine certificates and a negative PCR test report, visitors also need to fill out an electronic form.Some travellers did come back in the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/spring-returns-to-nepals-mountaineering/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">spring of 2021 </a> after the government relaxed the lockdown. But it was not enough to revive local economies. “We got some 300 tourists who were here to climb Everest,” says Pemba. “It didn’t help much with the income as much as it created fear of the virus with some patients at the base camp.”Back in Phakding, independent travelers have started to trickle in, but there is also a new phenomenon of Nepali trekkers who are exploring their country in ever larger numbers after the lockdowns.In fact, most trekkers these days in the lodges of Phakding are Nepali. Pemba is regaining some of his cheerfulness and hope for the future. He says: “Things are starting to get better even if marginally, tourists are returning. I might be able to build a new house for my parents after all.”

Trekking in Nepal is open for business

<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181144/636be7019c7e80680e0877d4jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="3024" height="4032"/><figcaption>Past the South Summit of Everest and climbing the Cornice Traverse with the Hillary Step in the background. Photo: KARMA TENZING</figcaption></figure>The height of Mt Everest has grown by 86cm to now measure 8848.86m, the foreign ministers of Nepal and China revealed at a joint virtual live event on Tuesday.The new measurement of Sagarmatha-Zhumulangma (Mt Everest) was declared by Nepal’s Foreign Minister Pradeep Gyawali in Kathmandu and his Chinese counterpart Wang Yi in Beijing by pressing a crystal ball simultanesouly. The two also exchanged congratulatory messages from Nepali President Bidya Devi Bhandari and Chinese President Xi Jinping to each other.The new height puts end to speculation about whether Mt Everest had risen or shrunk and by how much after the 2015 earthquake, or if there would be a wide discrepancy between measurements by Chinese and Nepali surveyors.<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/mt-everest-from-both-sides-now/">Mt Everest from both sides, now</a>, Raunab Singh Khatri and Rastraraj Bhandari<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181144/636be7049c7e80680e0877d5jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="2144" height="1000"><figcaption>New height joint announcement on Tuesday in Beijing and Kathmandu .</figcaption></figure><figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181144/636be7079c7e80680e0877d6jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="805"><figcaption>Sagarmatha Zhumulangma and the China Nepal border. Photo: NASA</figcaption></figure>The announcement came three days before International Mountain Day 2020 on 11 December, and in the week when China’s Chang’e 5 lunar probe is starting its return to Earth with soil samples from the Moon’s surface.Mt Everest’s elevation of 8,848m (29,028ft) had been accepted since 1955. But depending on who is counting, the height has been plus-minus a dozen or so metres since then.The joint announcement of the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/re-measuring-mt-everest/">latest measurement of the world’s highest mountain</a> was delayed by the Covid-19 pandemic, and officials in both countries guarded the new number as if it was a military secret.In the past century and half, the height measurement has changed as more accurate survey techniques became available.When the Great Trigonometric Survey Of India was done in 1856, surveyors triangulating from the plains found the height to be exactly 29,000ft. However, Sir George Everest, who headed the Survey, thought people would think they rounded off the figure, and added 2ft to it just so it sounded more accurate.The true height differ depending on where it is measured from – mean sea level, or the centre of the Earth. Because of the Earth’s equatorial bulge, Andean peaks can actually be considered ‘higher’ than Mt Everest.Measurements have also differed in the past because some take the elevation of the rock at the summit, while others also add the icing on top. The snow cornices on the peak are about 4m thick, depending on the season, wind patterns, and the impact of <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/mt-everest-is-melting-are-you-moved/">global warming</a>.<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/global-heating-melts-mountains/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Global heating melts mountains</a>, Nepali Times<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181144/636be70b9c7e80680e0877d7jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="648" height="902"><figcaption>The history of Everest measurements.</figcaption></figure>To make it even more complicated, the real height of Himalayan peaks are not constant. There is tectonic pressure which can push mountains up or down, depending on the location. Mt Everest is said to be rising by about 1cm a year, but that is possibly cancelled out by the weathering process.More recently, geologists and scientists had also come up with different views on the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/on-everest-4-years-after-the-nepal-earthquake/">impact of the 2015 earthquake</a>, which is why the new joint measurement was needed. Besides the height, surveyors were also keen to find out if the mountain had moved southwards, and by how much. But the joint announcement on Tuesday did not disclose horizontal displacement.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181144/636be70d9c7e80680e0877d8jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="4000" height="3000"><figcaption>Photo: DAMIEN FRANCOIS/NEPALI TIMES ARCHIVE</figcaption></figure>“The height of Everest is constantly changing due to tectonic activity, of which the <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/blogs/kundadixit/2015/05/27/a-month-that-felt-like-a-year/">2015 Gorkha Earthquake</a> is only the most recent contribution,” Christopher Pearson of the University of Otago in New Zealand, who worked with Nepal surveyors on the measurement in 2018, <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/nepal-china-re-measure-height-of-mt-everest/">explained to Nepali Times earlier this year</a>. “Since the present measurements are fairly old, we needed to update it.”The New Zealand government assisted Nepal’s Survey Department expedition to Mt Everest in May 2019 with the Global Navigation Satellite System (GNSS), and trained technicians in processing the geodesy, levelling and gravity measurement data.The Nepali survey expedition was led by Khim Lal Gautam, who climbed the mountain for the second time on 22 May 2019, to take measurements with GNSS and ground-penetrating radar. On the risky descent, Gautam nearly died of exposure at the South Col.<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/why-we-climb-mountains/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Why we climb mountains</a>, Damien Francois<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109181144/636be7119c7e80680e0877d9jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="946" height="631"><figcaption>Khim Lal Gautam and his survey team reached at the top of Mt Everest at 3am on 22 May 2019 to avoid the crowds. The GNSS equipment on a specially designed tripod is on the summit behind the climbers.</figcaption></figure><a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/measuring-mt-everest-because-it-is-there/">Gautam wrote in Nepali Times</a> recently about the experience: ‘The near-death experience reminded me of the importance of the summit observation and the responsibility that I had in bringing down the data. We took risk for this raw data so we could get the precise height of Mt Everest.’The Chinese also sent an expedition to climb Mt Everest in May this year – the only team on the mountain because of the pandemic. While the climbers were on top, a Chinese survey aircraft was flying overhead to take airborne gravity survey readings from the instruments on the summit. China said its equipment had “centimetre-level accuracy”.China and Nepal signed an MoU to cooperate on the re-measurement, and had originally planned to jointly announce the height during President Xi Jinping’s visit to Kathmandu in October 2019.K2, the second highest mountain the world in Pakistan is 8,611m, so there is no danger of Mt Everest being demoted any time soon. The famous Hillary Step on the southeast ridge of Everest that used to be the last steep hurdle for climbers, collapsed during 2015, showing that earthquakes do suddenly change the topography of mountains.<a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/everest-trail-repaired-during-pandemic/">Everest Trail repaired during pandemic</a>, Ang Rita Sherpa

Mt Everest grows by 86cm

<figure><img width="1400" height="1050" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110915118/636bb44c9c7e80680e07bb95jpeg.jpg" alt=""/><figcaption>ken Hutt launches off from 7,200m on Cho Oyu in 2014. All photos: KATIE RIVERS</figcaption></figure>Approaching 62 years old, and after retiring from a police rescue squad in 1996, Ken Hutt needed some adrenaline replacement therapy.He had watched the documentary, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TEpKNla63Kw">Miracle In The Storm</a>, about a paragliding competition in which a German flier was sucked up to 9,947m, blacked out and only just came to in time to land it. Another Chinese competitor was also lifted by the same storm, and was killed by lightning.A year after watching the documentary, Hutt was trekking to Everest Base Camp, acclimatising himself before paragliding off the summit of the world’s sixth highest mountain, Cho Oyu, when he started to suffer from altitude sickness.It was April 2014, and an avalanche had just killed 16 Nepali guides on the Khumbu Icefall. Above him, helicopters with stretchers dangling ferried bodies down the mountain.“I’m sitting on the glacier next to Lobuche, watching them, one after the other, feeling really sick,” he recalled. “It was only 5,000m, and I’m supposed to be climbing this 8,000m mountain and flying a paraglider off it.’”His adventure was being sponsored by the Gates Foundation, which was going to triple every dollar he made to help polio eradication. <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/banner/polio-hunt/">Nepal got rid of polio in 2000</a>, but the disease still afflicts children in parts of South Asia.  His team crossed the Nepal-China border into Tibet where a friendly local bureaucrat, sympathetic to <a href="https://www.rotary.org/en/our-causes/ending-polio">Rotary’s ‘End Polio Now’</a> campaign allowed him to fly off the mountain. Hutt started climbing, and never felt another pang of altitude sickness. <img width="2464" height="1632" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110915118/636bb4509c7e80680e07bb96jpeg.jpg" alt="">He got to 7,200m and had the choice of flying from there, or proceeding to the 8,188m summit with the rest of the expedition. But he couldn’t do both. Next morning, he stuck his head out the tent and it was a glorious, clear day with a 6 knot breeze wafting up the mountain. Perfect for flying. The guide wanted him to summit, but he decided that since the whole idea was to raise money for polio, summiting that mountain was not going to raise any money, paragliding off it was. “In hindsight, I’m pretty disappointed I didn’t summit. I was pretty fit. I was feeling really good,” Hutt says. He pulled the super lightweight (2.7kg) glider from his pack and suddenly became acutely aware of his own inexperience, and the fact he had only flown this particular glider once before -- off a tiny hill near his home south of Sydney. He would be flying in air one-third the thickness, hanging from a glider too small to carry his weight plus the ice axes, sleeping bag, rope and food he had to carry for self rescue.“All the Sherpas were saying it was ridiculous you shouldn’t do this, but once I started to spread the glider out they all started getting really excited about it,” Hutt says. The wind dropped from 6 knots to almost nothing. In the absence of a breeze, Hutt had to launch by running down the slope. After a hop and a skip he was airborne.Then he realised he was not breathing: “I’ve been flying for half a minute or something without taking a breath. All of a sudden there was no air to breathe. Just trying to suck it all in. Nothing.”He tried to come down fast as he could. Landing was something else again. He could not locate the prayer flags he had put up as windsocks at Cho Oyu base camp.“The scale is huge. You have no idea how fast you’re flying, how much sink rate you have. All I did was head to base camp. It was about 13 km on a line of sight. I started to do circles to lose altitude. I lined up base camp, thinking I’m going to have to land on the rocks. ” <figure><img width="2002" height="3000" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110915118/636bb4539c7e80680e07bb97jpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption>Australian ex-policman Ken Hutt is planning on paragliding off Mt Everest after the pandemic.</figcaption></figure>He was flying at 50km an hour through the thin air, and the noise through the risers was deafening. He landed on scree, and intentionally turned to touch down on his back where an ice axe wrapped in a down sleeping bag protected him.“I opened my eyes and right in front of me was the summit of Cho Oyu,” he said.Now, all Hutt needs is the right permission from the Nepali authorities and the right pandemic case numbers to get cracking on his mission next year at 62 to be the oldest person to fly off the top of Mt Everest. But his trip is in the hands of the gods and Nepal’s bureaucracy.Hutt was told he had verbal approval for the flight from Tourism Minister Rabindra Adhikari, who later died in a helicopter crash. So, Hutt led a trek of Rotarians to Everest Base Camp which raised $180,000 for the End Polio Now campaign. Hutt knows the dangers, but the lure of the Himalaya is more powerful. He adds: “You are being unfair to family. Mountaineering is selfish and dangerous. Throw in a paraglider in the high mountains and the danger doubles.”So, people ask Hutt why he keeps doing it, and his answer is: “If you’ve got to ask you’re never going to understand anyway.”<hr/>PARAGLIDING FROM MT EVEREST1988: French adventurer Jean-Marc Boivin was the first person to paraglide off Everest. He died 17 months later in a BASE-jumping accident.2011: Two Nepalis, <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/regular-columns/Connecting-dots/Sano-Babu-paragliding-world-cup,1029">Sano Babu Sunuwar and Lakpa Tshiri Sherpa</a>, flew off Mt Everest without permission, then kayaked down to the Indian Ocean.

Aussie paraglider to jump off Everest

<figure><img width="1497" height="990" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110911110/636b7a369c7e80680e064749jpeg.jpg" alt=""/><figcaption>HIMALAYAN AIRLIFT: A Qatar Airways Airbus330 takes off from Kathmandu on Saturday with European tourists stranded after Nepal’s COVID-19 lockdown. Photo: MANISH PAUDEL</figcaption></figure>Five days after Nepal went into a nationwide COVID-19 lockdown, a bulk of the tourists stranded in the Mt Everest region are finally being evacuated to Kathmandu for flights back home.There were two flights by <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/blogs/kundadixit/2015/10/12/rebranding-tourism-with-remodelled-plane/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Tara Air 16-seat Viking Twin Otters</a> on Thursday and Friday from Lukla airfield, but the evacuation picked up momentum on Saturday with Nepal Airlines and Summit Air conducting at least ten ferry flights to Kathmandu. <figure><img width="650" height="488" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110911110/636b7a3a9c7e80680e06474ajpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption>Tara Air in Lukla Airport. All Photos: KUNDA DIXIT</figcaption></figure>The Australian, British, French, Swiss and American embassies in Kathmandu have been the most active in rescuing their nationals who were up in the mountains when Nepal suddenly announced a lockdown from 16-31 March – grounding all domestic and international flights and putting public transport off the roads. The curfew is expected to be extended to mid-April.There were an estimated 400 trekkers and climbers in the <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/everest-garbage-caravan/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Everest region</a>, but trekkers were also stranded in the Annapurna and Manaslu circuits as well as Langtang. There are said to be about 800 tourists still in the Pokhara area, and the Nepal Tourism Board estimated that there were <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/latest/10000-tourists-stuck-in-nepal-being-evacuated/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">10,000 tourists in Nepal</a> when the lockdown was announced last Tuesday.The weather was looking iffy in Lukla early morning Saturday, but the ferry flights managed to dodge cloud buildup over Lamjura Pass to conduct the flights, pilots said. Some helicopter charters also flew up the Everest trail to rescue trekkers. <figure><img width="960" height="960" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110911110/636b7a3c9c7e80680e06474bjpeg.jpg" alt=""><figcaption>Notice posted by Nepal Tourism Board regarding tourists stranded in Pokhara.</figcaption></figure>Yeti Airlines and Buddha Air deployed their ATR72s on Thursday and Friday to bring French, Swiss and other European tourists from the Annapurna area, and more flights are being arranged on Saturday.The British Embassy has asked its nationals in various parts of Nepal to send information for possible rescue. It also arranged an escorted bus that departed Pokhara at 8AM Saturday to bring tourists by road to Kathmandu.The evacuation flights were delayed because of the need to arrange lodgings in Kathmandu, and negotiate ferry flights out to the final destination of the tourists. International airlines have to fly in empty to Kathmandu because of the lockdown.There were also bureaucratic delays caused by coordination between various ministries. The Nepal government has come under criticism for not paying as much attention to Nepalis who are also stranded in the mountains. Trekking guides and porters have also been stuck in Lukla and various other climbing routes.“We have been working with the embassies and various ministries to help the tourists, and are taking all the health precautions to fly them out by allowing special charter flights so that they can be with their families,” said Dhananjay Regmi, CEO of Nepal Tourism Board. <img width="650" height="487" src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/2022110911110/636b7a3e9c7e80680e06474cjpeg.jpg" alt="">Qatar Airways in the only airline still making ferry flights, and carried out 600 mainly French and German tourists from Kathmandu to Doha on Airbus330 aircraft on Thursday and Friday. Another flight arrived on Saturday to take stranded Australians back home via Doha.Australian Ambassador Peter Budd posted on the Facebook public group <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/2712912542154556/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Australians Stranded in Nepal</a> that Australian nationals would have first priority, New Zealanders after that, and he also disclosed that if there were seats available his wife and some embassy staff would also be on the flight.There have been concerns about the high cost of one-way tickets, and Budd posted: ‘We have tried to achieve economies of scale by securing the largest possible aircraft …The reality is that aircraft entering Nepal are not permitted to carry passengers. In all likelihood, once arrived in Sydney, the aircraft will also have to return to Doha empty. This adds to the cost.’Faced with a crisis of medical equipment for its hospitals for a future outbreak, the government is sending a Nepal Airline Airbus 330 to Guangzhou on Saturday to bring the items.

More stranded tourists evacuated from Nepal

<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109101132/636b74319c7e80680e06237ejpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1404" height="936"/><figcaption>Apa Sherpa making way to a high pass in the higher sections of the Great Himalayan Trail. Photo: HIMALAYAN CLIMATE INITIATIVE</figcaption></figure>A broad smile lit his bearded face as Dawa Steven Sherpa strode towards us down the mountain path. The afternoon sun glinted off grey stone walls and wheeling crows croaked overhead on his approach, a dark coloured dog trotting cheerfully at his heels.Behind <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=16260#.Xj-4JNIza70">Dawa</a>, <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/blogs/thebrief/2015/03/27/in-pursuit-of-stories/">Apa Sherpa</a> grinned broadly, a diminutive figure brimming with taut energy, followed by <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=19291#.Xj-32tIza70">Samir</a>, the tall shy photographer hung with cameras, and an entourage of assorted small children and curious hangers-on. After a month walking the <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=16399#.Xj-2L9Iza70">Great Himalaya Trail</a> the team were bronzed and hardened, their leg muscles solid under the dusty grime, and shoulders rippling beneath sweaty tee-shirts and big packs.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109101132/636b74359c7e80680e06237fjpeg.jpg" alt="" width="350" height="401"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>“Great to see you guys. We are almost halfway!” called Dawa Steven optimistically, hugging his girlfriend who had travelled with us to Gorkha from Kathmandu that morning. “<a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=19216#.Xj-3JNIza70">The dog has been with us since Thame!</a>” After our early start, we were happy to sit with the party exchanging news over cups of milky tea in a village shop, prior to the official municipal welcome felicitations within the lofty precincts of the Gorkha palace.The Great Himalaya Trail <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/blogs/thebrief/2012/01/13/the-great-himalayan-trek-begins/">Climate Smart Celebrity Trek</a> was the brainchild of <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=19015#.Xj-4i9Iza70">Prashant Singh</a>, traversing the <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/blogs/kundadixit/2010/09/25/the-great-himalayan-trail/">1,700km length of the Nepal Himalaya</a> through 22 districts <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/review/nepals-grand-trek-road/">from Ghunsa in the shadow of Mt Kangchenjunga in the east to Darchula in Humla</a> on Nepal’s far western border. Its high-profile purpose was to draw attention to the effects of climate change on mountain ecosystems, and spread the word to the local communities through which they passed.The historic town of Gorkha was a convenient meeting point, although closer to one third the total length. Prashant and I had brought a bus-load of Kathmandu-based media to further publicise the initiative. And to check how they were getting on in those days before widespread cell coverage connected the hills.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109101132/636b74369c7e80680e062380jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1200" height="1600"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>Apa, the first ‘Super Sherpa’ to summit Everest 21 times, came from his Utah home for the awareness-raising event, and Dawa Steven took a break from mountaineering and climate ambassador advocacy activities. Prashant’s <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/blogs/thebrief/2012/01/13/the-great-himalayan-trek-begins/">Himalayan Climate Initiative</a> was just newly formed in 2012, and keen to make its mark on the government, local NGOs and foreign donors concerned with environmental issues whom he had persuaded to fund this novel expedition.The effort was lauded by the President and Prime Minister, and several intrepid ambassadors and Kathmandu development workers accompanied sections of their hike. Messages of goodwill and “god speed” were received from international supporters such as Al Gore, Reinhold Messner and Joanna Lumley. At a roadhead in Sindhupalchok, Apa was presented with a certificate from the boss of the Guinness Book of Records in a makeshift ceremony.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109101132/636b74399c7e80680e062381jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1459" height="1094"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>Films and photos taken along the route are still being used today, showcasing some of the most rugged and breath-taking mountain landscapes on earth, and passing beneath eight of the world’s highest peaks. Both VNY2020 and Nepal Tourism Board are dedicated to promoting the Great Himalaya Trail as a long distance multi-day walk, conveniently divided into bite sized sections to encourage repeat visits. <a href="https://nepalitimes.atavist.com/rebranding-tourism-with-remodelled-plane-">Tara Airlines have painted the GHT logo</a> onto its STOL aircraft and boarding passes.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109101132/636b743d9c7e80680e062382jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1600" height="1200"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>Himalayan Climate Initiative has since become one of Nepal’s most innovative organisations, dedicated to finding sustainable solutions and practical business responses to the rapidly escalating environmental concerns that are engulfing Nepal. Recycling plastic bottles, producing re-useable shopping bags and collecting rainwater are just some of the ideas they have turned into thriving social enterprises. Based in an expansive Budhanilkantha site, I recently listened to exciting experiments from college kids that included vertical vegetable farming, natural water purification, plastic waste for road building, and reuse of household grey water.The celebrity trek was cleverly created as part of the overall Great Himalayan Trail Development Programme, a government project supported by the British and Dutch, and designed by a TRC team of Nepali consultants of which I was team leader. Our objective was to spread tourism benefits and stimulate local livelihoods by promoting trekking beyond Sagarmatha, Langtang and Annapurna. In 2010 an estimated 95% of all trekkers to Nepal were concentrated in those popular protected areas with only 6,000 tourists venturing further afield. Today, that figure has grown to nearly 30,000, and more when Nepali trekkers are included.I certainly did not conceive this ‘iconic and globally significant new tourism product’ for Nepal, but I was the first to weave it into government plans -- the National Ecotourism Strategy and Marketing Plan first featured the Great Himalaya Trail in 2001, a long time ago.Two people had stumbled upon the GHT concept concurrently from their different perspectives – marketing and rural development. Jamie McGuinness, a Kiwi climber and trek organiser, one evening in 2000 on my pink sofaed sitting room, explained his inspired idea to film a multi-country trek along the length of the entire Hindu Kush Himalaya. Shortly afterwards, Malcolm ‘Mac’ Odell of The Mountain Institute, over lunch in his Baluwatar home, shared his brainwave to harness tourism to bring benefits and business opportunities for remote communities between and beyond the three established trek areas.We were following in the footsteps of early pioneers. Mountaineer Peter Hillary led the first high altitude traverse in 1980, Americans Arlene Blum and Hugh Swift first walked the full length from East Bhutan through Nepal and India in 1982, and the British Crane brothers first ran the Nepal Himalaya in 1983. Many adventurers have ensued including commercial trips, boosted by Robin Boustead’s 2011 book, several websites and a series of published maps.<figure><img src="https://superdesk-pro-c.s3.amazonaws.com/sd-nepalitimes/20221109101132/636b74409c7e80680e062383jpeg.jpg" alt="" width="1200" height="1600"><figcaption> </figcaption></figure>We modified the route to maximise benefits for mountain residents, using a cobweb of lower trails winding east west through the middle hills, ensuring the widest appeal for hikers and even bikers. Like the historic Silk Road, the precise path moves with the time of year and aspiration of the trekker.Waving goodbye in the sunshine outside the glowing brick walls of the Gorkha palace, Apa, Dawa Steven, Samir and their team still had a very long way to walk. Speeding along the trails as their fitness levels increased, and despite daily stoppages to explain their mission to ever-growing crowds of interested villagers and local authorities as word spread ahead of them, they completed the traverse in just 99 days.And when they returned to Kathmandu, tired and triumphant, <a href="http://archive.nepalitimes.com/news.php?id=19057#.Xj-3ptIza70">Setuk the dog ‘with yellow eyebrows’</a> was still with them.Read Also: <a href="https://www.nepalitimes.com/opinion/no-lovelier-spot-than-kakani/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">No lovelier spot than Kakani</a>, Lisa Choegyal

Lisa Choegyal

The Climate Smart Great Himalayan Trek

Nepal’s only international aviation gateway, at Kathmandu airport, will cut night-time operation hours to allow construction of taxiways, and airlines have been told to curtail flights. This is expected to lead to more than normal chaos during the height of peak autumn and spring tourist seasons at an airport that is congested even at the best of times. The airport will close from 10PM to 8AM from 8 November-31 March 2025. The taxiways will now connect to the thresholds at both ends of the runway, making the airport more efficient in handling higher frequencies of landings and takeoffs. The parallel taxiway extension will allow international flights to land every 4 minutes instead of the current every 7 minutes. At present planes have to wait to land until a plane taking off backtracks along the runway.&nbsp; Kathmandu is Nepal’s only airport with international operations, and it has only one runway that is only one way in from the south over the mountains. With the taxiway improvement, the airport will be able to handle 42 aircraft landings and takeoffs per hour — double the current capacity.&nbsp; The Civil Aviation Authority of Nepal (CAAN) has been trying to entice international airlines to also start flying to and from the other two international airports at Pokhara and Bhairawa (Lumbini) by slashing landing and handling charges. But so far only Nepal Airlines operates a weekly flight to Bhairawa from Kuala Lumpur.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20241018161016_046569e53d1d66cd445cc66c697c0ef724810aec9f54bdf827481e3cd6b80c32.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="20241018161016_046569e53d1d66cd445cc66c697c0ef724810aec9f54bdf827481e3cd6b80c32" data-rendition-name="original" width="2356" height="1134" loading="lazy" alt="Kathmandu airport expansion"> <figcaption>Kathmandu Airport Expansion plan with extension of taxiways to the thresholds of runways 02 and 20 that will limit airport operations from 8 November 2024 - 31 March 2025. Areas in blue are existing structures, including the international terminal which in future will be the domestic airport, and the new international terminal near the north end of the runway,</figcaption> </figure>   <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20241018121028_6e17cc2ee87c1b02d78cb54905825b7aa15299b7a00f5eddb01a59579ab85c1a.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="20241018121028_6e17cc2ee87c1b02d78cb54905825b7aa15299b7a00f5eddb01a59579ab85c1a" data-rendition-name="original" width="1353" height="1328" loading="lazy" alt="Kathmandu airport NT"> </figure>  CAAN has reportedly told international airlines to cut their flight frequency to Kathmandu citing the shorter operation hours and has told budget airlines to shift some of their flights to Pokhara or Bhairawa, or face cuts. Many airlines currently operate regular flights to and from Kathmandu between 10PM and 8AM: Air Arabia to Sharjah, Fly Dubai to Dubai, Jazeera Airways to Kuwait, Cathay Pacific to Hong Kong, Singapore Airlines, several Nepal Airlines flights, and one of four daily flights by Qatar Airways to Doha. Jazeera Airways, FlyDubai, and Thai AirAsia have applied and got permission from CAAN to begin regular flights to Bhairawa’s Gautam Buddha International Airport. Starting 9 November, FlyDubai will start making a stopover in Bhairawa before flying on to Kathmandu. Immigration, customs and security are all fully functional in Bhairawa. In Kathmandu, the next phase of the airport upgrade includes converting the current international terminal for domestic operations, the construction of a new international terminal where the domestic departure area is now, as well as moving the hangars and the Nepal Army Air Wing to the eastern side of the runway. The apron area will also double its parking space for widebody jets. This is part of a Airport Capacity Enhancement Project that was initially funded through a $80 million loan from the Asian Development Bank (ADB), and the entire masterplan is expected to cost $800 million. This project is the latest upgrade to Nepal’s only international airport since it saw its first flight in 1949. The current international and domestic terminals are too small to handle the current annual traffic volume of 8.5 million passengers a year that is growing at 20% a year.

Kathmandu airport to cut flight hours

As Kathmandu becomes more congested and polluted, and with remote online work becoming the norm, many professional Nepalis are planning to retire in Pokhara, or move there.&nbsp; With its stunning mountain panorama, balmy winters and proximity to a profusion of wilderness areas, builders are responding to this demand with new townhouses, housing development and apartments. One such block of flats is the 10-storey <a href="https://sungavaapartment.com/">Sungava Apartment</a> located at Phulbari above the Seti River, near the point where it flows into and under Pokhara. The imposing structure near Manipal Hospital is almost complete, and on a recent visit the site was strewn with huge boulders unearthed while digging the foundation.&nbsp; The Seti brought down these boulders during a gigantic flood that geologists estimate happened 800 years ago when a chunk of Annapurna IV broke off and ploughed into the glacier below. Today, Sungava (means ‘orchid’) sits safely on a high terrace, 100m above the blue-green Seti and commands a view of Dhaulagiri, Annapurna South, Machapuchre, Annapurna III and IV.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2024102411104_5f8fc736c86ea3c08d7bef43bb727081d3cc1a2caa55ae2b441717e6044de7e9.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="2024102411104_5f8fc736c86ea3c08d7bef43bb727081d3cc1a2caa55ae2b441717e6044de7e9" data-rendition-name="original" width="2016" height="1512" loading="lazy" alt="High living below the Himalaya NT"> </figure>  The soil here is conglomerate that has solidified like concrete, and the boulders were extracted by heavy earthmovers. It is intriguing to think that these metamorphic rocks as big as cars, rounded by glacial grinding, were once a part of a much higher Annapurna IV. Even for those with little interest in geology, Sungava is an ideal place to contemplate the tectonic forces that pushed these peaks into the sky to be sculpted into delicate shapes by wind, snow, earthquake and avalanche over millions of years. The view of the Himalayan panorama from Sungava’s many balconies are breathtaking when not obscured by clouds, or the haze that drifts in from across the southern border. On most days, just watching the towering pyramid of Machapuchre (Tamu name: कतासुँ क्लिको) play hide and seek with the clouds is mesmerising. There are rocks aplenty at Phulbari, and it is probably the flowers that grew along the flat terraces e that gave the place its flowery name. The boulders will hopefully be turned into a rock garden while landscaping. An nearby restaurant complex is making the best use of the stones in its design, using flat rocks as outdoor benches and tables. Sungava was designed by the husband-wife architect team of Deepak Sherchan and Jyoti Joshi of <a href="https://thedarkmermaidamarbshrestha.blogspot.com/2013/12/creative-builders-collaborative-cbc.html">Creative Builders Collaborative (CBC)</a>, which also built Heritage Plaza, Indreni Apartment and numerous other projects in Nepal. Sadbhavana retains CBC’s trademark Newari-style masonry and here it borrows from the orange brickwork of the old town of Pokhara, integrating it with modern design elements. A few of those heritage houses are still standing in Ganesh Tole and Ram Krishna Tole in Pokhara’s old quarter.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2024102411108_5eb64a4885961b6d30781cefeb1e8a313da313ac5227c7a66b60f0c7d48d6fab.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="2024102411108_5eb64a4885961b6d30781cefeb1e8a313da313ac5227c7a66b60f0c7d48d6fab" data-rendition-name="original" width="1362" height="595" loading="lazy" alt="High living below the Himalaya NT"> </figure>  About 400m from the apartment past a bend on the river, and down below three tiers of terraces in the canyon is a suspension bridge. Below it, the Seti is still swollen with post-monsoon flow as it tumbles away in a hurry to head down south.&nbsp; Back at the apartment, it is quiet, far away from the hubbub of Lakeside a 15 minute drive away, and in the lap of greenery. There are 52 units at Sungava and it already has a close-knit prospective community of professionals, including doctors, publishers, engineers, and businesspeople from the renewable energy and IT sectors.&nbsp; Some residents say they opted for a second home in Pokhara to make it a ‘base camp’ to explore the Annapurnas with its many hiking trails made newly accessible with new roads. With the NRN citizenship law, overseas Nepalis can now also buy the flats. &nbsp; The floor plans include options for north and south-facing 3-bedroom apartments with verandas, and the facility has underground parking has EV charging, heated pool, sauna and gym. There are still some unsold apartments with panoramic views of the mountains and one can imagine oneself at the kitchen with its huge window, humming a ditty while preparing breakfast: “खाना पकाउँ हिमाल हेरेर...”

High living below the Himalaya

When the United Nations held its Summit of the Future at its headquarters in New York in September, many world leaders, including Nepal’s Prime Minister K P Oli, highlighted the effect of climate breakdown in increasing the frequency and intensity of natural disasters. What did not get as much attention was the long term impact of the climate crisis on food production. In fact, heat stress, weather extremes and the consequences on rain-fed agriculture is already being felt worldwide, undermining the chances of the <a href="https://unstats.un.org/sdgs/">UN’s Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs)</a> being met by 2030.&nbsp; The SDG’s 17 targets commit countries like Nepal to reduce poverty and inequality, end malnutrition, protect the natural environment, and ensure that citizens all enjoy health, justice and prosperity without leaving anyone behind.&nbsp; However, besides the impact of climate breakdown on agricultural production, in Nepal the area under cultivation is impacted by urban expansion, falling productivity and the need for expensive inputs like fertiliser and pesticides.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20241019041052_626413c5baf4dae407ac9579231b41daeb51510aa636b75aeb7489d94cca6a62.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="20241019041052_626413c5baf4dae407ac9579231b41daeb51510aa636b75aeb7489d94cca6a62" data-rendition-name="original" width="999" height="1500" loading="lazy" alt="urban agriculture in Kathmandu"> <figcaption>Kathmandu's urban sprawl is eating into its fertile cultivable lands. Photo: TAYLOR MASON</figcaption> </figure>  Now, a new study led by Nepali researcher Prajal Pradhan at the University of Groningen in The Netherlands looks at how urban agriculture may offer a solution to falling food production and meeting SDG targets. The researchers evaluated 1,450 publications exploring the contributions of urban agriculture with both positive and negative effects, and published their findings in the journal Cells Report Sustainability. Urban agriculture can help achieve 17 SDGs, positively influencing 81 targets. However, it could also undermine 51 goals.&nbsp; Read also: <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/here-now/the-vanishing-land">The vanishing land</a>, Taylor Mason “Urban agriculture offers immense potential for sustainable development, but realising this potential depends crucially on adopting practices that minimise its adverse effects while maximising its benefits,” Pradhan explains. Urban agriculture can substantially enhance urban food security, provide employment to the urban poor, serve as ground water recharge in built-up areas, and preserve open spaces that can serve as safe havens during disasters like earthquakes. However, it also presents problems like the potential health risks from contamination and the need for expensive inputs. &nbsp; “Urban agriculture plays a definitive role in advancing the SDGs, but achieving this requires tailored, context-specific solutions that address the unique challenges of different regions,” says Yuanchao Hu of Wuhan University in China and who is a researcher at the Potsdam Institute for Climate Impact Research. “But it needs equitable access and rigorous management of environmental risks.”&nbsp; Rapid urbanisation is eating into Nepal’s most fertile agricultural land, which means farming in remaining open spaces inside cities can be a viable alternative, especially as food prices rise.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20241019041052_7b7c9413086226fbdc630d45acf772cfa1ced77a8970b9056ec5ec7e5226fdf8.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="20241019041052_7b7c9413086226fbdc630d45acf772cfa1ced77a8970b9056ec5ec7e5226fdf8" data-rendition-name="original" width="1500" height="999" loading="lazy" alt="urban agriculture in Kathmandu"> <figcaption>A vegetable patch in between new houses in Thimi. Photo: TAYLOR MASON</figcaption> </figure>  “The conversion of Nepal’s most fertile land into cities is a severe problem,” Pradhan told Nepali Times. “Crop cultivation, horticulture, agroforestry, beekeeping, livestock rearing, or aquaculture can all be farming activities within and around cities.”&nbsp; The study makes recommendations for sustainable practices that build on the positive aspects of urban agriculture while mitigating the downsides, thereby promoting more resilient cities in future. Research shows that urban agriculture has been helping many countries attain SDG targets by enhancing food security and biodiversity while helping education and preservation of open spaces.&nbsp; Indeed, many farmers from the hinterland who have settled in Kathmandu Valley or other urban areas of the country have been practicing urban agriculture, leasing neighbourhood patches or cultivating roof gardens both out of necessity because of inflation and falling income to grow their own food, and also as a fulfilling hobby. Saurav Dhakal, a sustainability advocate with Story Cycle and now research fellow at the Asian Institute of Technology in Thailand, says there are socio-economic and environmental benefits of urban agriculture. “It provides benefits to all urban dwellers, regardless of their income status,” says Dhakal, “families get fresh food, and there are many other benefits like water retention, heat regulation and biodiversity. These are all public goods, so special government incentives may be needed.” It is not unusual to see vegetable patches and even paddy fields within inner city Kathmandu where an older generation of farmers are using available fertile land and <a href="https://archive.nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/rooftop-gardens-kathmandu,1415">roof gardens to produce fresh, nutritious food </a>to reduce their dependence on food items that have to be bought after being trucked in from large distances.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/2024101905100_1291ce98dbbb8caed8702ac4b1d469b3e13016d7ecaaf3bfd5f91c974d3c0c77.jpg" data-media-id="editor_5" data-image-id="2024101905100_1291ce98dbbb8caed8702ac4b1d469b3e13016d7ecaaf3bfd5f91c974d3c0c77" data-rendition-name="original" width="1500" height="999" loading="lazy" alt="urban agriculture in Kathmandu"> <figcaption>An older generation of farmers are using any available fertile land to continue farming but it is getting more and more difficult. Photo: TAYLOR MASON </figcaption> </figure>  Nepal’s urban population grew rapidly from only 3.6% in 1991 to 25% today. There is large outmigration from the mountains to peri-urban areas of the Tarai, to Kathmandu Valley and Pokhara, with many young men then moving abroad for work. Kathmandu Valley’s population has swelled to nearly 3 million, and is growing at 6.5% a year. Dilip Shrestha, 71, used to work for Nepal Food Corporation, so he knew firsthand about inflation, shortages and vegetables with pesticide residue. So, when he designed his new house in Kathmandu, he built a spacious roof where he grows cucumber, ginger, garlic, coriander, onions, tomatoes, chili, beans, okra, pumpkin and lettuce. His family eats healthier, and he has reduced dependence on the market.&nbsp; The co-author of the Cell Reports Sustainability journal article, Daya Raj Subedi who is a PhD candidate at Beijing Forestry University, says urban agriculture also promotes inclusion and psycho-social wellbeing.&nbsp; He says, “A crucial finding of the study is the identification of opportunities and challenges associated with urban agriculture, it can promote sustainable transformation of society.” In Banepa, 55-year-old Bijaya Manandhar in her lifetime has watched the fertile farms of her neighbourhood that used to supply vegetables to Kathmandu, now completely built up with no open space left. The pandemic lockdown prompted her to turn to the family’s <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/rooftop-agriculture-on-the-roof-of-the-world">ancestral livelihood by growing food</a> not on terrace farms, but on the roof terrace. Manandhar is now a part of <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/banner/rooftop-agriculture-on-the-roof-of-the-world%5C%5C">कौसी खेती र करेसाबारी क्रान्ती</a> (Rooftop Farming and Garden Revolution) which has an online membership of 52,000, and awards annual prizes to women who excel in urban agriculture.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20241019041052_7257f5def8f823f35a799fa6f6825e153f2ffa406ac11325d4fe74049b79e96d.jpg" data-media-id="editor_8" data-image-id="20241019041052_7257f5def8f823f35a799fa6f6825e153f2ffa406ac11325d4fe74049b79e96d" data-rendition-name="original" width="1600" height="736" loading="lazy" alt="urban agriculture in Kathmandu"> <figcaption>Rooftop farming is gaining popularity as a form of urban agriculture. </figcaption> </figure>   <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20241019041052_beff1a4494ce896dd8fd383ee1f518e5448bcf7ea8bb138255391c7bcb9769ed.jpg" data-media-id="editor_9" data-image-id="20241019041052_beff1a4494ce896dd8fd383ee1f518e5448bcf7ea8bb138255391c7bcb9769ed" data-rendition-name="original" width="4000" height="3000" loading="lazy" alt="urban agriculture in Kathmandu"> </figure>  Pradhan says the challenge now is to upscale such examples of successful urban agricultural practices so they support Neal’s efforts to meet SDG targets. He adds, “Crop cultivation around cities can be protected by land use plans and regulations. Promoting community-based agriculture, including rooftop gardens, requires community engagement and public-private partnerships across the food value chain.”&nbsp; Such support would accelerate the popularity of existing rooftop farming and community gardens in Kathmandu Valley, or kitchen garden initiatives in Pokhara, and building on traditional farming practices that are preserved and integrated into urban settings like in Bhaktapur and Banepa. In Lalitpur, the Women Entrepreneurship Facilitation Center promotes urban farming enhancing both sustainability and empowerment.&nbsp; Another co-author of the report, Yuanchao Hu from China says followup research of the team will aim to identify good practices in local urban agriculture practices. He adds, “There are examples of urban agriculture that optimise sustainability, ensuring that it remains a viable solution for cities globally while countries try to meet SDG targets.” Prajal Pradhan, Daya Raj Subedi, Kshitij Dahal, Yuanchao Hu, Prakriti Gurung, Sijal Pokharel, Sagar Kafle, Biplav Khatri, Sudeeksha Basyal, Monika Gurung, and Aruna Joshi. Urban Agriculture matters for sustainable development. Cell Reports Sustainability, 1:100217, 2024. [DOI: 10.1016/j.crsus.2024.100217] Prajal Pradhan (<a href="mailto:p.pradhan@rug.nl">p.pradhan@rug.nl</a>) This article is brought to you by <a href="https://nepalitimes.com/" target="_blank">Nepali Times</a>, in collaboration with <a href="https://inpsjapan.com/en/" target="_blank">INPS Japan</a> and <a href="https://sgi-peace.org/" target="_blank">Soka Gakkai International</a>, in consultative status with UN ECOSOC.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20240630110640_30c3782f9c09219bf1c249b51483a3cfb7a53a06d117d2aebd23ca7080d12758.jpg" data-media-id="editor_14" data-image-id="20240630110640_30c3782f9c09219bf1c249b51483a3cfb7a53a06d117d2aebd23ca7080d12758" data-rendition-name="original" width="680" height="103" loading="lazy" alt="SDG logo"> </figure>

Back to the land in the cities

The 700-year-old Lakshmi Narasingha temple in Bhaktapur houses a rare half-lion and half-human incarnation of Lord Vishnu carrying the Goddess Lakshmi. The temple was destroyed in the 1934 mega earthquake that killed 10,000 people and destroyed many monuments in Kathmandu Valley. It was rebuilt by a German project in the 1980s, but as a single-storey structure instead of its original two-tier pagoda design.&nbsp; With new findings from in-depth research, Bhaktapur municipality began re-restoring the temple in 2021, preserving its original architecture.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20241017131016_2fae38cce543ad7b1f6de632feb3e212e08ed1acedd747830e949d7b8e878f18.jpg" data-media-id="editor_0" data-image-id="20241017131016_2fae38cce543ad7b1f6de632feb3e212e08ed1acedd747830e949d7b8e878f18" data-rendition-name="original" width="2048" height="1365" loading="lazy" alt="In with the old in Nepal NT"> </figure>  “Our temples and heritage sites hold deep meaning. It is disheartening to witness how often they lose their original elements, whether by design or accident,” explains Kumar Chawal of the Consumer Committee of Bhaktapur. “There is a need to preserve our architecture and protect its historical value for future generations. Otherwise, we risk losing a vital part of our identity.” The Laksmi Narsingha restoration is similar to the Bhai Dega temple in Patan Darbar Square which also collapsed in 1934, but was rebuilt with a Moghul-style dome by the Rana government at the time. Only two months before the 2015 earthquake, heritage conservationists had started to rebuild Bhai Dega as the original three-tier based on early photographs. But priorities shifted when four other temples in the square were brought down by the 7.8M earthquake on 25 April 2015.&nbsp;  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20241017131016_697ea707d9ad163be5de5f2efbf5b70d3cab771adcc22f0fae6bf937c6cb0130.jpg" data-media-id="editor_1" data-image-id="20241017131016_697ea707d9ad163be5de5f2efbf5b70d3cab771adcc22f0fae6bf937c6cb0130" data-rendition-name="original" width="2048" height="1365" loading="lazy" alt="In with the old in Nepal NT"> </figure>  This showed how damage to monuments in Kathmandu Valley spanned from one earthquake to the next. Bhai Dega restoration remains half-complete to this day because money for its restoration ran out.&nbsp; Whereas Bhai Dega restoration was done by the Kathmandu Valley Preservation Trust with grants from western embassies and international foundations, in Bhaktapur it is the municipality itself that allocated the Rs30.7 million needed to restore the Lakshmi Narasingha temple. The expected date of completion is early 2025. The municipality and local communities are focusing on two main aspects: preserving the past and promoting localisation. The restoration team has designed a blueprint for the temple by using historical photographs and insights from older generations.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20241017131016_182882fdc393c99e70d1d0490319e415229563666c4934e3a582426ebf00ca30.jpg" data-media-id="editor_2" data-image-id="20241017131016_182882fdc393c99e70d1d0490319e415229563666c4934e3a582426ebf00ca30" data-rendition-name="original" width="1200" height="560" loading="lazy" alt="In with the old in Nepal NT"> </figure>  “At first, the Lakshmi Narasingha temple had only one entrance, but during the demolition process, we uncovered the foundations of four doors. Now, we are restoring all of them. This is an example of how our ancient structures have changed over time, often without our knowledge,” says Chawal. “Constructing temples is not like building houses. They carry historical and spiritual values, which is why they hold a special place in our hearts,” he adds. By replicating ancient design elements and rebuilding the temple as accurately as possible to its original form, the team has stayed true to Bhaktapur’s soul. But the restoration also revived ancient techniques that were in danger of being forgotten, generating employment for woodcarvers, masons, and contractors. The community of Bhaktapur’s Gahiti neighbourhood near the famous Nyatapola Temple has also set aside specific days for locals to volunteer in the reconstruction work. This has encouraged young people to take pride in ownership of their heritage. Families have also supported the effort by donating funds for bells, the temple pinnacle, and other structural features to the temple.  <figure> <img src="https://publisher-publish.s3.eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/pb-nepalitimes/swp/asv65r/media/20241017131016_db850ec0c084cdbe54f65bee92dad2ad8122d20fd60ec87ec086fbb9d2f72bd6.jpg" data-media-id="editor_3" data-image-id="20241017131016_db850ec0c084cdbe54f65bee92dad2ad8122d20fd60ec87ec086fbb9d2f72bd6" data-rendition-name="original" width="2048" height="1365" loading="lazy" alt="In with the old in Nepal NT"> </figure>  “I feel at peace knowing I have contributed my sweat to restoring this temple,” said one volunteer. “It is our duty to preserve our temples and heritage. The Nyatapola area will look magical once this temple is completed.” Community mobilisation is a long-standing tradition in Bhaktapur. In the past, locals have actively participated in the restoration of other temples in the city, such as Bhairav and Nyatapola fostering a strong sense of ownership. This collective engagement has not only been crucial in preserving the city's historical monuments but also in strengthening the bond between local communities and their heritage, says officials at the municipality. While securing funding is essential, and the municipality showed it values heritage conservation, the Lakshmi Narasingha restoration is proof that active involvement and sense of responsibility of the local community is as important, if not more. Local involvement also means that the monuments will be cared for into the future, When locals take ownership of these efforts, the restored monuments are not only protected in the present but are also cared for in the future.

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