Seize the coming decade

The guests were dressed with care as befits the end of an era. The New Year’s Eve atmosphere was buoyant but grave, with the usual eclectic Tiger Mountain mix. Old Asia-hands from Singapore and Thailand were gathered with Swiss family, British friends, Kathmandu expats, Tibetan cousins and Nepali hosts, all reflecting on the massive significance of the passing millennium. The grandeur of the Himalayan scenery matched our mood.

It was 31 December 1999 and we were perched on a ridgetop above the Bijaypur Khola in Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge. Far beneath us, the lights of Pokhara Valley twinkled in the winter cold, and the soaring white peaks glowed pale in the moonlight. On the hillside opposite some farmers were razing their fields, and the fires spread out slowly until they formed the unmistakable shape of a giant burning cross.

Jim Edwards leaned against the stone column beside the Lodge’s picture window. “Perhaps we should heed such a powerful symbol,” he said quietly. Despite the cosy warmth and the blazing central fireplace, a shiver went down my spine.

There were a few things to worry about, not least the widespread concern that the digital world would come crashing down on the stroke of midnight, which had kept our diplomatic friends on high alert in their embassies. To no avail as it turned out, but the rumours had been rife and convincing.

In Nepal, the brutal insurgency was rumbling with increasing vigour throughout the country. It would be another six years before peace was achieved, a time of such trauma that it is buried deep into a collective national amnesia. The horror of the royal massacre was 18 months ahead of us and, three months after that, the 9/11 terror tragedy of the twin towers which changed our world forever.

Pokhara Lodge had been shaken with an evening raid by alleged insurgents that carried off not only the terrace telescope and some staff cameras, but the bulging contents of the end-of-season tip box, which seemed rather harsh given their declared ideology. The attack was the first of relatively few direct clashes with tourism during those deeply troubled times. No one was harmed, and even the resident guests were unalarmed, confusing the red bandanas, flags and brandished khukri knives as part of a cultural show.

On that millennial eve, Pokhara Lodge had been operating for just over a year. The trees and wild landscaping had yet to mature around the honey-coloured stone bungalows, hand-cut from a local quarry, clustered like a local village adjacent to our community forest neighbours. The swimming pool bamboos were still in their infancy, but the peaks were already mirrored in its shimmering blue surface on a breathless morning as eagles, vultures and kites wheeled overhead.

Sir Edmund Hillary had done the inauguration honours, stooping stiffly to light the votive brass lamp on the broad slate veranda one clear October day, with expansive views of the Himalaya range stretching from Dhaulagiri to Manaslu. At various stages of construction, monks and priests had blessed the hilltop site, selected by Colonel Jimmy Roberts as the first campground on Prince Charles’ original Royal Trek in 1980.

I had walked the first recce of that route for Mountain Travel with Pertemba Sherpa, a circuit now driveable down unappetising dusty rutted roads, because Colonel Jimmy’s hips were already failing him and his walking days were over. I stayed behind to manage the media that early December day 40 years ago, as the Prince of Wales strode uphill towards the silhouetted skyline tree that now bears his name, accompanied by Prince Dhirendra and a royal retinue. “The mountain views were ‘gin clear’ for all four days,” Colonel Jimmy noted in satisfaction.

As we hurtle into another shiny new decade, pondering on what lies ahead, hopes run high for a better prognosis as we face the clean slate of the future. Our New Year resolutions this time can be more ambitious than the annual self-improvements destined to peter out by February.

Nepal’s full potential for generating hydropower can happen, even as glaciers retreat and river levels drop, the patient queues at hitis and water taps testament to a depleting water table. The realities of rail travel are still a dream away, victim to the overwhelming odds against running rails through the world’s highest, youngest and least stable mountain chain. But electric bikes and cars are beginning to ply the Valley, and all sorts of innovative no-plastic and waste solutions are being trialled and adopted.

The energy and opportunity of the much-awaited Visit Nepal Year 2020 is upon us, with a plethora of creative events, new product ideas, and even an appreciation of the old and bold who have shaped tourism in the past. Hopefully, new international airports around the country will improve our travel patterns, pushing tourists beyond the much-treaded Kathmandu-Pokhara-Chitwan triangle with new destinations that can deliver the delights of Nepali culture and adventure. Even as roads penetrate the heights and scar the hillsides, trekkers can disperse beyond the Everest-Annapurna-Langtang circuits, bringing benefits to the pristine and scarcely-visited sections east and west along the Great Himalaya Trail.

At this dawn of a new decade, let us tune our ears to the rhythms of history, use the commitment of VNY2020 and push beyond the cliché: Plus ca change, plus c’est la meme chose. Seize the decade. A future awaits.